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Wasabi the J posted:I feel like experienced woodworkers take for granted the physical control and discipline necessary to get really accurate cuts and measurements, and not every hobbyist has the time or resources to learn those skills, especially if they only occasionally do woodworking projects. Everyone knows Dunning-Kruger for the side that lets folks dunk on morons, but this is the extremely real and possibly even more frequent side. Its really easy for me to say "just overcut by 1/32 and shoot the joint for precision" but that is built on top of a bunch of assumptions about the listeners ability to: 1. Build an accurate shooting board 2. Properly sharpen a plane 3. Accurately measure and mark 4. Accurately saw Each of these are skills built up over years of time. Someone approaching the problem of "dead accurate 90° crosscuts" without these base skills is going to both struggle and take far far longer than someone who is just adding "shooting" to the top of the stack.
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Dec 5, 2020 21:23
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Since paper is basically wood anyway, I'll confirm that this is a real thing. I've been folding origami for 27 years at this point and I've tried to teach people some beginner folds quite a few times over the years. Telling someone "this doesn't have to be totally perfect" always results in something that is so far outside my expectations that I've stopped saying that. Not perfect by my standards is essentially perfect for someone without nearly three decades of folding practice.
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Dec 5, 2020 21:30
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So I made a thing that might actually barely be interesting to people in this thread. Lee Valley sells these nifty little cam clamps that are really quite useful when making model ships, but the smallest one they sell is $22.50, so getting a bunch of them would add up pretty fast. I had a sample piece of a wood named Makore, which seems really hard, but the sample is fairly small and I have no real use for it, so I ripped of a piece of it on my little bandsaw, took it to 1/8" thick with my little miniature thickness sander, and then cut the piece into two strips about 3/8" wide on my little tiny table saw.    Then I cut out some pieces, did some drilling, shaping, gluing and clamping and... I now have a perfectly functional cam clamp, although I do need to get some cork to use for the jaws. Wood is completely unfinished.   It's okay for a prototype, but I learned a couple lessons to make the next one work better, primarily in how the movable jaw angles on the main slider, and size and shape of the cam itself. Pretty easy to make these in whatever size I want, and seems like a pretty great use for cheap and/or scrap hardwoods.
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Dec 5, 2020 23:42
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Woodworking: Flipping slats, folding paper, doesn't have to be perfect.
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Dec 5, 2020 23:47
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I'm jealous of that mini planer its so adorable. I'm stealing your clamp design I don't care if you patented it 
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Dec 6, 2020 00:16
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Rutibex posted:I'm jealous of that mini planer its so adorable. I'm stealing your clamp design I don't care if you patented it I stole it from a friend who found it in a really old magazine. The PDF is terrible, but it has some useful information. I'm not sure it's ok to just post it since it's an article from a magazine?
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Dec 6, 2020 00:20
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Rutibex posted:I'm jealous of that mini planer its so adorable. I'm stealing your clamp design I don't care if you patented it Oh.. if you for some reason were ever interested in very small, but extremely accurate and well made little power tools, specifically table saw, thickness sander, and disk sander, here is where they come from: https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index5.html Full sized machines just don't work well for the small scales that ship modelers work in, but these things are simply amazing for that sort of small scale precision work.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:29
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The Locator posted:Pretty easy to make these in whatever size I want, and seems like a pretty great use for cheap and/or scrap hardwoods. How much pressure do you need the clamps to apply? X-ACTO used to make plastic clamps that are convenient for holding little poo poo together though there's no cam action so the pressure is limited—they don't make them anymore but there are knockoffs that are pretty cheap.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:45
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Wallet posted:How much pressure do you need the clamps to apply? X-ACTO used to make plastic clamps that are convenient for holding little poo poo together though there's no cam action so the pressure is limited—they don't make them anymore but there are knockoffs that are pretty cheap. Not really about pressure so much as finding a fairly easy to make design like this that I can make in all different sizes as I need them for the project. The cam clamps probably aren't great for a huge amount of pressure either, but they are nice in that they can be rapidly put in place without messing with screws and adjustments, just squeeze them tight and then use the cam to apply enough pressure to get them to stay put. I'll likely be making a bunch of different types and sizes of clamps as I progress and need them.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:52
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The Locator posted:So I made a thing that might actually barely be interesting to people in this thread. Lee Valley sells these nifty little cam clamps that are really quite useful when making model ships, but the smallest one they sell is $22.50, so getting a bunch of them would add up pretty fast.
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Dec 6, 2020 00:56
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The Locator posted:Not really about pressure so much as finding a fairly easy to make design like this that I can make in all different sizes as I need them for the project. The cam clamps probably aren't great for a huge amount of pressure either, but they are nice in that they can be rapidly put in place without messing with screws and adjustments, just squeeze them tight and then use the cam to apply enough pressure to get them to stay put. Yeah, the plastic ones use a little wedge you push with your thumb to lock the bottom jaw but I suspect that kind of design wouldn't work very well in wood.
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Dec 6, 2020 01:11
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What's the best way to clean and disinfect a wooden knife block? Just use some disinfectant wipes?
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Dec 6, 2020 02:20
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I know that wood cutting boards are a health violation if you're in a restaurant because they can never truly be sanitized (according to the health department) but for home use I think sanitary wipes might do it. Maybe isoproplyl alcohol in a spray bottle will do a more thorough job? Cleaning, I would just use soap and water.
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Dec 6, 2020 03:19
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The_Hatt posted:I know that wood cutting boards are a health violation if you're in a restaurant because they can never truly be sanitized (according to the health department) but for home use I think sanitary wipes might do it. Maybe isoproplyl alcohol in a spray bottle will do a more thorough job? Cleaning, I would just use soap and water. Dilute bleach is what I've used. e: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31113021/ Also this study suggests that wood cutting boards are actually inherently antibacterial compared to plastic. Stultus Maximus fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 03:32
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Disinfectant wipes may or may not penetrate and I would not use them for porous surfaces. Dilute bleach is good, as is any liquid disinfectant. Cutting boards can simply be washed with soap and hot water, though, and that's adequate for food purposes - and wooden cutting boards shouldn't be used where completely sterile conditions are required, like in a laboratory.
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Dec 6, 2020 05:15
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Does my screw placement/amount make sense for this outdoor planter? The plans that I’m using didn’t really say how many to use so I just kind of winged it. I had to use different positions for the screws joining the long sides to the legs to keep them from running into the screws on the sort sides.
Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 06:25
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^ That looks fine. Your planter will fall apart because of moisture before those screws should fail.10 Beers posted:What's the best way to clean and disinfect a wooden knife block? Just use some disinfectant wipes? Steam is what you use to sanitize wood barrels. Well, or fire, but I imagine you want to use it again. If you're worried about mold and stuff growing in the place you put your knifes, you can just use a kettle or other way to make steam and it will knock out that mold population just fine provided you allow it to dry out after. Bleach might work, but I don't know that it would penetrate the surface layer of the wood at all where the mold spores like to hide. Whichever route you try, make sure to clean first with a brush and soap and hot water or it won't pull apart the biofilm that molds create.
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Dec 6, 2020 06:28
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It may go without saying but I'd probably oil the block after whatever you're doing, assuming it's finished similarly to a cutting board or butcher block
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Dec 6, 2020 06:59
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What have you found to be the most broadly useful jigs/equipment to make for a table saw? I'm working on a crosscut sled, miter sled, jointing sled, assorted push sticks/blocks, zero-clearance insert, and project-specific workholding jigs this weekend. Projects immediately over the horizon: End grain cheese board & coaster sets, side grain dough board, plywood/hardwood bookcase, picnic table, kitchen cupboard, and hopefully prod/entice my housemates to replace their jacked-up back deck stairs. My biggest issues usually revolve around getting safe, repeatable cuts in comparatively long/thin workpieces, getting jointed surfaces in long/thin stock, and getting precise cuts in small workpieces. Oh, and how do you get a no-slip workholding surface that doesn't introduce too much squish/unevenness? I've been cutting up no-slip carpet pad and putting that under clamped stock, but I want something I can just apply to a crosscut sled or push block. I'm wondering if there's like thin-coat rubbery paint or spray-on rubbery surface or something like that. Stultus Maximus posted:Dilute bleach is what I've used. I remember seeing something about how traditional wooden cheesemaking equipment is far less likely to produce cheese with harmful microorganisms when starting with unpasteurized milk. I can't imagine how wooden cutting boards can be sanitary for anything but cutting up stuff that's going to be cooked immediately after, but this wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong about stuff like this. HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 07:35
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Rock My Socks! posted:Does my screw placement/amount make sense for this outdoor planter? The plans that I’m using didn’t really say how many to use so I just kind of winged it. I had to use different positions for the screws joining the long sides to the legs to keep them from running into the screws on the sort sides. Since you're not using pressure-treated wood, if that's exposed to moisture it's going to rot and fall apart in about ten years. You could use half as many screws and they'd still hold for at least that long. I'd not bother driving screws into the endgrain of the rail: each rail being screwed to the leg is sufficient, and driving screws into endgrain risks splitting it.
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Dec 6, 2020 08:00
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HolHorsejob posted:What have you found to be the most broadly useful jigs/equipment to make for a table saw? I'm working on a crosscut sled, miter sled, jointing sled, assorted push sticks/blocks, zero-clearance insert, and project-specific workholding jigs this weekend. Projects immediately over the horizon: End grain cheese board & coaster sets, side grain dough board, plywood/hardwood bookcase, picnic table, kitchen cupboard, and hopefully prod/entice my housemates to replace their jacked-up back deck stairs. If you want something to prevent your workpiece from sliding on your crosscut sled, you could glue some sandpaper to it. Never been an issue for me, just use a stop block.
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Dec 6, 2020 14:41
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Anyone have any recommendations for a shoulder plane?
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Dec 6, 2020 15:22
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Saddamnit posted:Anyone have any recommendations for a shoulder plane? The Stanley Sweetheart has extremely spotty QC from what I hear. I got a good one and it is serviceable. Both the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen options are obv good, my plan was to eventually upgrade to the Veritas large shoulder plane. Schwarz recommends getting the large models rather than the small or medium ones.
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Dec 6, 2020 15:27
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The Locator posted:So I made a thing that might actually barely be interesting to people in this thread. Lee Valley sells these nifty little cam clamps that are really quite useful when making model ships, but the smallest one they sell is $22.50, so getting a bunch of them would add up pretty fast. These tiny woodworking machines are adorable. Now I want to build a Santa's Village and have one of the elves using these... (Please help, Elf on a Shelf for the 5th year in a row has broken my brain...)
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Dec 6, 2020 16:40
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Leperflesh posted:Since you're not using pressure-treated wood, if that's exposed to moisture it's going to rot and fall apart in about ten years. You could use half as many screws and they'd still hold for at least that long. Thanks! What would be the best way to preserve the wood (we do plan on painting it). I’m in Houston (super humid and wet) so this thing will need all the help it can get.
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Dec 6, 2020 17:17
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Saddamnit posted:Anyone have any recommendations for a shoulder plane? The old Stanley’s are decent (no 92? 93?). My old shop had one and I used it for years, but I got a veritas one and it is a very noticeable upgrade. Nice little hole for your finger and everything. Mine is I think the middle size? Probably 1/2-5/8” wide iron and 6” long? I’ve never wanted a bigger one-if any thing I’ve wanted a smaller one to get in little grooves. If I have a wider/longer tenon to plane down, I use the shoulder plane right next to the shoulder and then a block plane on the rest or just use the smaller shoulder plane all across it.
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Dec 6, 2020 17:29
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Saddamnit posted:Anyone have any recommendations for a shoulder plane? I made mine out of a chunk of maple and a chisel. It wasn't overly difficult to make, though there's a lot of tapping to get it set up right. I only need one on a very occasional basis, though.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:12
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:
Heh, a friend With kids does the elf on the shelf thing. This year it’s in a big jar quarantining for the first 14 days cause of the Covid.
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Dec 6, 2020 18:39
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I am building two catapults for my kids as christmas presents. This might be a terrible idea in retrospect but we'll see. I am basing the plans on this, there are actually no plans, just loosely based on this, going about the joinery a bit differently using half lap joints since they are easy to make on the table saw. I am wondering how to best make the ratcheting wheel. I am thinking of making a pattern in CAD and then print and cut out on the bandsaw. I sold my wood lathe so I guess I will turn the cylinder part on the metal lathe. I also want to make some dowels, part of me wonder if I could use metal dowels, like brass, could look cool. Also wondering if I could make the ratcheting wheel from metal, like aluminum, might be cool looking. The cylinders will be turned from a contrasting wood I think like walnut, the main frame is ash. Also need to make dowels. 
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Dec 7, 2020 09:55
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His Divine Shadow posted:I am building two catapults for my kids as christmas presents. This might be a terrible idea in retrospect but we'll see.  Wow you're really going whole hog. Most people get lazy and just build a trebuchet! To make the ratcheting wheel I would cut out the rough shape then use a rasp to get it into the exact dimensions, like Grandpa Amu: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AoCtUhG4-I
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Dec 7, 2020 14:04
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I am making a radiator cover and decided I want the top to be a nice stained and finished piece of wood. The size I need is about 15x34. I don't have experience with glue ups or planing so I was hoping to do the entire thing as one piece if possible, but I realize the 15" width might make that cost a fortune. Also not sure what thickness would be appropriate. What are my options? Also thoughts on species? I was hoping to get it at either the local lumber yard or Rockler.
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Dec 7, 2020 15:58
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mcgreenvegtables posted:I am making a radiator cover and decided I want the top to be a nice stained and finished piece of wood. The size I need is about 15x34. I don't have experience with glue ups or planing so I was hoping to do the entire thing as one piece if possible, but I realize the 15" width might make that cost a fortune. Also not sure what thickness would be appropriate. What are my options? Also thoughts on species? I was hoping to get it at either the local lumber yard or Rockler. 15" wide is gonna be hard to find, yeah. I think even my impressively nice local hardwood lumberyard would have to special-order that...and then the fact that you only need 34" of length comes in. You'd have to buy an entire 8+ foot long board, or pay a significant premium to only buy the length you need. And then you'd have to figure out how to surface it, since 15" is too wide for most home planers. Hand planing is of course an option. But given your claimed lack of experience, I strongly advise you to consider a nice hardwood-veneer plywood instead. Available in a variety of widths and species, and the surface will look like glued-up hardwood boards, except for the edges which will show the typical plywood layers. It's up to you if that bothers you. As for width, I wouldn't go below 1/2" personally. 3/4" if this is somewhere that might have weight put on it. You can glue multiple layers of plywood (or regular wood) together to make a thicker board, if necessary.
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Dec 7, 2020 16:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:15" wide is gonna be hard to find, yeah. I think even my impressively nice local hardwood lumberyard would have to special-order that...and then the fact that you only need 34" of length comes in. You'd have to buy an entire 8+ foot long board, or pay a significant premium to only buy the length you need. And then you'd have to figure out how to surface it, since 15" is too wide for most home planers. Hand planing is of course an option. 3/4" seems pretty thin...I was hoping to have it look more like a countertop. Also seems like the unfinished edge would really be a problem for me. See this random google image picture for what I'm envisioning.  Maybe gluing some boards together would not be so bad. I can cut them straight but I don't have a planer. Could I just sand the finished product or is it going to look absolutely terrible unless its planed?
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Dec 7, 2020 16:49
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Have you considered, like, a piece of butcherblock countertop? It looks like that's what is in that picture, and you can get a 25" x 48" x1.5" piece for around $100. You wouldn't have to worry about gluing or planing - cut it to size, and give it a quick sand and finish.
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Dec 7, 2020 17:01
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You can buy iron-on strips of edging that is designed for exactly hiding the edges of plywood.
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Dec 7, 2020 17:04
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Do you do butcher block out of oak? That looks a little like oak to me.
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Dec 7, 2020 17:05
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Do you do butcher block out of oak? That looks a little like oak to me. "butcher block" has incorrectly become synonymous with "glued together wood". You could easily glue two sheets of 3/4" plywood to get 1.5" and use a 2" iron on edge strip to hid the ply. Don't even need clamps, just a bunch of heavy stuff to set on top of the two sheets.
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Dec 7, 2020 17:21
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mcgreenvegtables posted:3/4" seems pretty thin...I was hoping to have it look more like a countertop. Also seems like the unfinished edge would really be a problem for me. See this random google image picture for what I'm envisioning. quote:Maybe gluing some boards together would not be so bad. I can cut them straight but I don't have a planer. Could I just sand the finished product or is it going to look absolutely terrible unless its planed? Sanding can get you a smooth surface, but it's hard to get a flat one. If your glued-up boards are 1/32" off, then you'll need to do a lot of sanding to even things out. Planing is the recommended process for flattening boards because it can remove material much more quickly, and with less sawdust floating around and getting into your lungs. But yeah, edge-banding onto plywood is an entirely reasonable approach, as is buying a premade wooden countertop of some kind.
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Dec 7, 2020 17:56
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JEEVES420 posted:"butcher block" has incorrectly become synonymous with "glued together wood". Oh for sure. I kinda just wanted confirmation that I'm not crazy an that I identified oak correctly  I'm tryin' to learn that skill and I'm still spotty.
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Dec 7, 2020 18:00
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Elder Postsman posted:Have you considered, like, a piece of butcherblock countertop? It looks like that's what is in that picture, and you can get a 25" x 48" x1.5" piece for around $100. You wouldn't have to worry about gluing or planing - cut it to size, and give it a quick sand and finish. I like the idea of just buying something. I will look into that. Any good vendors for such a thing? Elysium posted:You can buy iron-on strips of edging that is designed for exactly hiding the edges of plywood. For iron-on edge strip on plywood, how does that constrain my options for finishing the edges? It would be nice to have a small round over. mcgreenvegtables fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 18:11
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