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I remember the 92 C2500 Silverado my parents bought new when I was a kid, the AC would give you frostbite. I didn't know about the HVAC issues other than the R12 all leaking out and leaving you without frostbite every July.
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Dec 5, 2020 05:07
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92 b250: Occasionally when the vehicle is completely off, key out, cold engine, I will hear some kind of electric motor/pump type noise from the dashboard area. It lasts a few seconds, and occurs at random as far as I can tell, so I haven't been able to follow it to a more specific location. What the poo poo could be turning on at random when the thing has been off for hours?
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Dec 5, 2020 05:15
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Javid posted:92 b250:
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Dec 5, 2020 05:18
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cursedshitbox posted:There might be a valvebody issue where it won't stay in OD when warm. There's a sleeve kit or a replacement VB for it. Son of a bitch, I could have really used this info ten years ago. Nearly to the day, too.
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Dec 5, 2020 08:22
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03 Outback, 2.5 automatic. Occasionally hear a high pitched fluttering/whining sound immediately after shutting the car off. Seems to be coming from under the car. Yanking a battery cable stops it. Restarting the engine sometimes, but not always, stops it (though putting it in gear at idle definitely stops it). It usually fades to nothing after a few minutes, but it's gone on for up to 15 minutes before. Ideas? It doesn't happen often, but it kinda makes me think something expensive isn't shutting off completely when it should. It sounds like it's coming from roughly under the center console. Hasn't caused a battery issue yet. My immediate, uninformed guess, just based on where it's coming from, is something is making the center diff clutch solenoid constantly engage/disengage for a bit, but that's a very uninformed guess.
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Dec 5, 2020 14:53
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Time for some electrical troubleshooting? If you can locate a schematic with the pinout of the connectors you might be able to put a meter on the right pin to see if what you think is making it is actually activating/operating, if its a digital signal activating the device that makes things more difficult. Are there any aftermarket wiring modifications on the car? Also if you're worried about things activating at random you might be able to do some data logging with the right kinda of o-scope and a current shunt on the battery to see if its randomly pulling current out of the battery. I think some of the cheaper computer based o-scopes might allow some sort of data logging in the software. I used a Fluke scopemeter to log/diagnose an intermittent issue on an electric automated vehicle successfully before at a previous job but those things are expensive, if its stationary you should be able to use an old laptop and usb scope to sit there and record data.
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Dec 5, 2020 16:40
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STR posted:03 Outback, 2.5 automatic. Apparently, the headunit has a cooling fan. It can & will run after shutdown as needed. https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2020-whining-sound-from-center-console-after-ignition-is-off.814796/ VV (edit) ah, well. poo poo. Are you experiencing any parasitic drain? VV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 17:47
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Everything is bone stock except for the stereo, and I installed that myself using a proper adapter harness - plugs into the factory harness - no amplifiers or anything, just a typical Pioneer stereo swap. It did this with the factory stereo in there too, along with my old Kenwood stereo. It's rare enough that I'd have to constantly carry a meter or o-scope for weeks at a time (and hope the drat thing doesn't get broken into again). I do suspect the car was broken into at one point before I got it - more because the original key (and a new key made from the VIN by the dealer) doesn't work in the driver's door. It's been broken into once since I've owned it as well (door handle pried out out of the door to do so), but that was a few days ago. I do have an old laptop - modern enough to be SATA and have USB 2.0, but it's still ~10 yrs old and the battery is done, so I'd either need to get a new battery first, or run an inverter off the car battery. If there's anything that would work with that (either Windows or Linux), I'm all ears. A current clamp that works over USB would be amazing. As mentioned, I think it might be the center diff clutch rapidly cycling once parked, so I'm leaning toward the transmission control module (separate from the ECM on this car) doing something weird. No clue where the thing actually sits, but if there's a way to monitor current going to it via some kind of clamp that connects to a laptop over USB... PainterofCrap posted:Apparently, the headunit has a cooling fan. It can & will run after shutdown as needed. That's on the newer models (and maybe the optional McIntosh triple DIN stereo that was on the top of the line models). This is not only an 18 year old car, but doesn't even have the original stereo. The original one definitely did not have a fan (single DIN CD player with a weather radio built in). It's done this with the original stereo, a Kenwood single DIN (no fan for sure), and the Pioneer touchscreen double DIN I have now (might have a fan? not visible if it does). The sound is definitely coming from the bottom of the car, not the dash - it vibrates the arm rest when it happens. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 17:51
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DSO138 Oscilloscope, DSO 138 DIY Mini Oscilloscope, 2.4" TFT 1MSPS Digital Oscilloscope Kit Handheld Pocket Sized 13803K (Welded Version) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088FWHKZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_av9YFb5KEP1HG Worked fine for me, no laptop required.
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Dec 5, 2020 19:46
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STR posted:
Pull the centre diff fuse next time it happens while happening, see what that does?
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Dec 5, 2020 21:36
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Can the VNT turbos off of a VW TDI work with gas engines or is there something about them that prevents that? I might have a line on one for the low, low price of free but if it's just going to sit in a parts bin because it won't work with a gas engine it's not worth it.
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Dec 6, 2020 04:53
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Typically egt is what limits you. That's why the Porsche variable vane turbo's are $$$$$, they're made with fancier material to deal with the heat.
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Dec 6, 2020 05:33
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Can the VNT turbos off of a VW TDI work with gas engines or is there something about them that prevents that? I might have a line on one for the low, low price of free but if it's just going to sit in a parts bin because it won't work with a gas engine it's not worth it. Diesel exhaust is typically hotter than gasoline exhaust, so it should stand the temperatures. Garrett makes VNTs for gas and diesel, so the design is not specific to the type of engine. It's more a matter of sizing and matching it to the engine. Do some homework on the specific turbo and if it's appropriate to the engine you have in mind. Too big and you get lag, too small and you don't have enough capacity. If it's free, the worst that can happen is it blows up the engine you put it on. If that's an acceptable risk, go for it.
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Dec 6, 2020 05:45
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simplefish posted:Pull the centre diff fuse next time it happens while happening, see what that does? There's no fuse to pull for it. There is a fuse you can put IN to force the center diff solenoid to unlock the diff (it fully powers the solenoid instead of letting the TCM control it - it also turns on a FWD warning light on the dash). It's meant to be used if you're running the space saver spare tire - you have to put it on the back of the car. Normally it's an electronically controlled F/R distribution, but I think it tends to favor something like 60/40 until there's some slippage in the rear? I'm not sure if the fuse keeps power with the car off or not, I'll have to hit it with a meter. I've heard people say you can tow it with the rear wheels on the ground with that fuse in, but that really doesn't sound right to me (maybe you can if the key is on and the car is in neutral, but I'm not going to try it) I'll try putting the FWD fuse in next time it happens though. I didn't think of that.
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Dec 6, 2020 15:32
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Same car different question (03 Outback, 2.5 AT) So a lot of Subarus use an external ATF filter - it spins on like an oil filter - and mine is no exception. I replaced mine when I got my car, along with changing the fluid a few times. The old filter was TIIIIIIIGHT and took a lot of swearing to remove, but it was the exact same filter that I purchased to replace it. I got mine snug like a regular oil filter, and about a month later developed a nasty ATF leak that only happened with the engine running - it wound up being the filter backing off and fluid dribbling out. I hulked the poo poo out of it, it stopped leaking. A coworker that I drive home after work pointed out my car smelled "more like burning than usual" yesterday, and the smell had definitely progressed beyond "rear crank seal dripping a little oil on the exhaust" to something a lot worse . This morning I came out of work and found a sizeable ATF puddle under the car. Sure enough, the drat filter wasn't even finger tight. Again. Starting the engine and letting it idle revealed ATF dribbling out and running down the side of the pan, close enough that the wind while driving is blowing it right onto the cat. Again. I tightened it as best I could in the parking lot at work so I could get home, but I know it's gonna need some real tightening. Should I just get an oil filter wrench that fits the end of the filter, and hulk the poo poo out of it? I used a strap wrench to hulk on it last time (yanked until the strap wrench couldn't tighten it any further), and that lasted for over 6 months. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Dec 6, 2020 |
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Dec 6, 2020 15:52
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I'd start with a new filter and then strap wrench it on. My gut is that the gasket surface on yours already compressed a bit.
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Dec 6, 2020 17:58
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Only use the FWD fuse if you have a space saver spare (should be installed on the rear)
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Dec 6, 2020 18:46
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STR posted:There's no fuse to pull for it. There is a fuse you can put IN to force the center diff solenoid to unlock the diff (it fully powers the solenoid instead of letting the TCM control it - it also turns on a FWD warning light on the dash). It's meant to be used if you're running the space saver spare tire - you have to put it on the back of the car. Normally it's an electronically controlled F/R distribution, but I think it tends to favor something like 60/40 until there's some slippage in the rear? I'm not sure if the fuse keeps power with the car off or not, I'll have to hit it with a meter. I've heard people say you can tow it with the rear wheels on the ground with that fuse in, but that really doesn't sound right to me (maybe you can if the key is on and the car is in neutral, but I'm not going to try it) Ah yeah, you're right
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Dec 6, 2020 19:21
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Any tricks for jumpstarting a car with a keyless start? I've got a 2019 Mazda CX-3 with what I'm pretty sure is a dead battery (unresponsive to remote lock/unlock; internal locks, hazard lights, cabin lights don't work) but I'm not sure how to get the engine to a state where it's trying to turn over the way I have when I've jumped cars with physical keys in the past. I will admit to not actually having tried to jump it yet.
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Dec 6, 2020 22:38
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C-Euro posted:Any tricks for jumpstarting a car with a keyless start? I've got a 2019 Mazda CX-3 with what I'm pretty sure is a dead battery (unresponsive to remote lock/unlock; internal locks, hazard lights, cabin lights don't work) but I'm not sure how to get the engine to a state where it's trying to turn over the way I have when I've jumped cars with physical keys in the past. I will admit to not actually having tried to jump it yet. It’s in the manual, but there’s nothing really special. If your concern is that pushbutton means the computer decides how long to crank, most key-hole ignitions are the same way now. You’re just getting battery power from 6ft farther away.
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Dec 6, 2020 22:42
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eddiewalker posted:It’s in the manual, but there’s nothing really special. If your concern is that pushbutton means the computer decides how long to crank, most key-hole ignitions are the same way now. You’re just getting battery power from 6ft farther away. The start button is completely unresponsive. I'll have to check the manual again, but the way it's written mentions that the start button should be flashing amber to indicate that the battery is dead and a jump is needed. However, I'm not seeing any response from that button.
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Dec 6, 2020 22:58
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C-Euro posted:The start button is completely unresponsive. I'll have to check the manual again, but the way it's written mentions that the start button should be flashing amber to indicate that the battery is dead and a jump is needed. However, I'm not seeing any response from that button. Charge it for a bit before trying.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:04
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C-Euro posted:The start button is completely unresponsive. I'll have to check the manual again, but the way it's written mentions that the start button should be flashing amber to indicate that the battery is dead and a jump is needed. However, I'm not seeing any response from that button. Most likely because the battery is too dead for even that.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:04
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If it was a key car it wouldn't start either...
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Dec 6, 2020 23:07
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This is basic stuff, nothing weird going on. My suggestion would be to take the battery out and put it on a charger overnight. If that's not an option prepare to charge the battery for several minutes with the jumping car revved up a bit to charge the battery before you try anything.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:10
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I went through this with my sister's '10 Prius. Headlights left on, drained the battery stone dead. Didn't think that that was possible anymore, but there ya go. I jumped it. Let it charge up for about 20-minutes--half-hour before the control center lit up & it was able to be started.
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Dec 7, 2020 04:11
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So, fellas, I have a 2014 Passat, and the transmission got fucky- it just would have a poo poo of a time switching gears, especially on hills. RPMs would spike to 3k, and the car would jump forward and back and the needle would just waver back and forth. I'd have to take my foot off the gas and try again, usually took a few times to engage the next gear. I took it to a mechanic, and he, apparently, doesn't service VWs, but he was able to generate some error codes. Do you guys and girls know if it's worth trying to fix? UG41500 P074100 P181100 P181200 Edit: I love this car, the only car I've ever really liked, so hopefully it's not a full replacement type situation
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Dec 8, 2020 00:12
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P074100 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE P181100 TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURE P181200 - can't find this but I'm guessing it's also TC related Step 1 is go to an actual mechanic that works on VWs. My guess is that based on codes and behavior it's related to the torque converter not locking up correctly, which could be any number of actual root cause problems. edit: Step Zero is don't drive the car other than to the mechanic but I'd be inclined to get it towed.
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Dec 8, 2020 00:28
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Yeah, it's in the driveway at my mom's house, I've been using my wife's car. Western PA is hilly
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Dec 8, 2020 00:42
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Deteriorata posted:Diesel exhaust is typically hotter than gasoline exhaust, so it should stand the temperatures. Garrett makes VNTs for gas and diesel, so the design is not specific to the type of engine. Thanks, I guess I'll ask on NASIOC. It would be going on a zombie Subaru worth like $1k in parts if that, the two sets of tires are probably half of the vehicle value. So 1.9l diesel VW to 2.2l gas Subaru, but compression ratio and AFR is way higher on the diesel so the 2.2l might actually suck less air? I don't know for sure. I will definitely be putting a lot of planning into any turbo build, and it would be happening in a couple years at earliest, have to get back on my feet more thoroughly before I try anything crazy (also get a better job).
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Dec 8, 2020 01:43
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My wife has a 2004 ranger 3.0 4x4 and I want to put a ( head unit that'll take her bluetooth so she can listen to tunes without an aux cord. I figure any dumb ebay unit with an Amp would work but figured I'd stick my neck in here just in case, and to see if there's any tips
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Dec 8, 2020 07:14
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Go to crutchfield.com, they have an application finder tool that works really well - it'll tell you what fits, even down to speakers, and if you buy from them, they include very nice detailed instructions and usually wire harness / adapter stuff. Even if you don't buy from them, they'll tell you exactly what you need.
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Dec 8, 2020 08:10
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Legend. Thank you that's awesome.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:08
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down1nit posted:My wife has a 2004 ranger 3.0 4x4 and I want to put a ( head unit that'll take her bluetooth so she can listen to tunes without an aux cord. There are also a few vendors that offered custom fit stuff back in the day but I doubt they're still in production.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:21
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Metra kit + harness is around $20. Coat hanger can be used for the extraction tool, but the U-tool is less fuss.
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Dec 8, 2020 17:07
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C-Bangin' it 
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:P074100 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE I am not car inclined at all, do you know if this is an expensive type fix, just to prepare mentally? I have an appointment with a full service dealership on Tuesday, but it's $120 just for them to diagnose the car
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Dec 8, 2020 19:58
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Narzack posted:I am not car inclined at all, do you know if this is an expensive type fix, just to prepare mentally? I have an appointment with a full service dealership on Tuesday, but it's $120 just for them to diagnose the car DTCs are not diagnoses. You could have a bad torque converter that trashed the transmission and you need a new everything all the way down to a single wire that a mouse partially eaten through that needs $0.10 crimp to put back together.
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Dec 8, 2020 21:04
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Motronic posted:DTCs are not diagnoses. DTC?
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Dec 8, 2020 21:33
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Diagnostic trouble code. He's saying that when the car says P074100 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE it just tells you what isn't working right, not the reason for the error. You might have to replace a 10 cent washer or you might have to replace the entire transmission. The DTC just tells you where to start looking.
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Dec 8, 2020 21:44
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I would mentally prepare myself for a rather hefty bill and be pleasantly surprised if that was not the case.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:04
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