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Sagebrush posted:When you have synthetic oil, fuel injection, and AGM or lithium batteries, the cold isn't really a problem. In proper cold, I thought with lithium batteries you had to: 1. Before starting the bike up proper (in a petrol bike), you let the lithium battery warm up a little via the headlights etc. 2. There's less capacity/amp hours/whatever, so you have fewer attempts to start the (petrol) bike, or if it's an electric bike, you don't get as far mileage-wise as you would have if the ambient temperature was warmer (this happened to Ewan and Charlie recently in Long Way Up). Please correct me if I am wrong, I don't actually have a lithium battery in either of my bikes.
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Nov 20, 2020 00:08
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| # ? May 14, 2024 21:41 |
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All chemical batteries work less effectively in the cold because chemical reactions proceed more slowly at lower temperatures. The effect is just less pronounced with more modern technologies like AGM or lithium cells. So having a newer battery won't mean that it's immune to cold, but that it can operate at colder temperatures without needing special treatment, leaving only the people in frozen hellholes like Wisconsin still dealing with block heaters. You don't need to warm up your battery before attempting to start the engine, but it helps. The lithium thing with the headlights is because, as noted, you have a lower capacity and fewer starting attempts, so you want it to work the first time, so you warm it up a little so it puts out a little more current. Realistically, the first attempt will draw enough power to get it just as warm as running the headlights for a few minutes (much more so if you have LED lamps) so whatever. There is no reason that a lithium battery has to have less capacity than a lead-acid one, incidentally. They just do because people want them to be drastically smaller and lighter. A lithium battery with the same capacity as a lead-acid one would be about half the size and weigh a third as much, but people want them to be a quarter the size and weigh a tenth as much so here we are. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Nov 20, 2020 |
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Nov 20, 2020 00:13
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Interesting, thank you.
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Nov 20, 2020 00:19
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ya all I did past two mornings was turn it over once, give it a few mins while I plugged in my heated visor and that poo poo and then it fired right up. LiFePo batteries are pretty sweet and I do not see why I’d go back pushing around 10w50 molasses had to be real fun lol
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Nov 20, 2020 00:53
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Sagebrush posted:only the people in frozen hellholes like Wisconsin still dealing with block heaters. Hey I resemble that comment  Yeah as was said, modern cars don’t have much problem with cold weather. I think if you have an older vehicle or some sort of large work vehicle it’s probably worse. The worst part of that -20f cold snap for my car was the clutch was super slow to release because Honda in their infinite wisdom puts some sort of Venturi-like device in the clutch line to help stick shift noobs. Basically it slows the fluid down by forcing it thru a pinhole opening. This is a big bottleneck when the weather gets cold. The clutch took forever to engage. Other than that it was nbd
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Nov 20, 2020 02:20
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Here it's mostly pushed as an emissions thing. Warmer engine when starting, less emission. Plus a passenger compartment heater is very nice and an easy combo.
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Nov 20, 2020 02:40
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now that I am home I just: washed a fuckin ton of mud off it cleaned the air filters (gf got me some pod ones that let me keep the airbox which rules) changed out the fuel pump's filters and now I am detailing just about everything since I pulled the tank and airbox   (wiring only looks like a rats nest due to me moving poo poo around for the detailing no one will see, but also checking the loom for any unexpected rubbing / wear) tomorrow I will be doing: valve check (don't expect any changes to be needed as none were needed around 16000mi and engine sounds the same currently at 27000mi) adding some more coolant as all my offroading definitely burped it more even after I bled it correctly when I flushed / replaced at 21000mi and finishing the detailing!
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Nov 25, 2020 00:23
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Relocated the indicators and mounted a set of soft bags on the 125: Only took me 3 hours* but I started at 2pm and sundown is at 4 now, so a dark potato pic is all you get. I've had all the parts I needed to do this since early summer, I'm just the worst at actually getting things done. Glad I can finally cross this one off the list. e/ also got a small givi box coming in the post tomorrow, so that'll be going on the rack tomorrow night. *should have been much less but the blinker leads weren't long enough so I had to splice more wire in, then one of the rack mounting bolts was stripped... Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Nov 29, 2020 |
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Nov 29, 2020 19:02
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Well I spent the last few days removing and cleaning my carb to chase some spark plug fouling demons which ended up being a jet that rattled lose and was hanging out in the float bowl. Given the annoyance it is accessing the carb (basically having to remove the rear sub frame, exhaust, etc and then having to fish it out from behind the frame, I took the opportunity to order a rebuild kit and fully disassemble and clean it. The carb was actually pretty clean on the inside despite being pretty gross outside.  Here was said jet that came loose.  Got everything clean, installed new jets back to stock settings and reassembled. Also put on new hoses that aren't brown and brittle.  First mistake was removing the tps sensor. Luckily I was able to use my multimeter and some jump leads to adjust it back into spec. This took a lot of digging and internet searching to figure out how to do it. Thankfully being a wr with an ecu, I could do it without having to run the engine but the adjustment screw sits behind the frame so that's fun.  Once I got everything back together it started right up and ran pretty well. The only thing I need to do is adjust my accelerator pump timing screw and/or leak jet. After a quick throttle, once it revs back down the bike dies vs continuing to idle so I think the squirt timing is off. Oh well. I feel accomplished for the most part. Just fine tuning now. I'm starting to understand carbs a bit more now and they're not so mystical anymore but the location and size of it on my bike make it a bitch to access/adjust without ripping off the entire rear of the bike.
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Dec 6, 2020 12:06
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congrats dude; fixing things is probably one of my favorite feelings 
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Dec 6, 2020 16:03
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Verman posted:Well I spent the last few days removing and cleaning my carb to chase some spark plug fouling demons which ended up being a jet that rattled lose and was hanging out in the float bowl. You're overestimating the effects of the accelerator pump, you almost certainly have too much pilot screw because that's a dead sure sign it's idling really rich. If you had a problem with pump timing it would stumble when you open the throttle, by the time you've shut it the pumped fuel is long gone.
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Dec 6, 2020 19:00
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Verman posted:Well I spent the last few days removing and cleaning my carb to chase some spark plug fouling demons which ended up being a jet that rattled lose and was hanging out in the float bowl. It's a carb with TPS? Why?
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Dec 6, 2020 20:25
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High Protein posted:It's a carb with TPS? Why? Ignition advance curve adjustments based on throttle position.
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Dec 6, 2020 20:35
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For an even bigger  carb Harleys use a MAP sensor for the same purpose.
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Dec 6, 2020 20:46
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Today I had to layer dan, somewhere between Deckers, CO and Sedalia. It's a nice day in Denver so I went out for a long ride, and as usual I got the stupid idea that since things were nice down on the plains, and since it hadn't snowed for a week in the mountains, I could loop through the Rockies without problem. I brought all my heated gear, what could go wrong? The ride was great (for locals: Perry Park, Palmer Lake, Black Forest, Woodland Park, Deckers) but in the last half hour I hit the problem, which is the last bit home from Deckers. Riding to Deckers is painting yourself into a corner, because there's two long ways home and one short way, but that short way is sketchy. It has a 8,000ft summit which is no problem, but the road is unpaved and I wasn't sure how shaded it would be. "What the hell", I tell myself all day, "I'm sure it'll be fine". First pic is where the road ends, and I see that there's still some ice and snow on the road:  Here's where I turned around, about a mile from the summit but the bike just couldn't make it. This was right after I lost the front and dropped the bike, no pics of that because it was pouring gas through the carbs:  And here's a pic after I got off that road and gave up (taking one of the long ways home), nice view of a burn scar and the last sunlight for the day:  It looks like I got away with it today, I dropped it on ice/snow/clay so no damage other than losing a pint of gas in the snow.
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Dec 7, 2020 02:14
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Honda XR200R - my buddy was complaining of a rack tack tack type noise when it was running. I took the top end off today and this is the only thing I found that was weird but I’ve never taken one of these older Honda dirt bike motors apart before - one rocker hits the valve adjustment cover. Piston and valves look good but I didn’t take the valves out of the head. Also I wiped down the bore to check for scoring and forgot to oil it up again before trying to kick it. Any chance I did irreparable damage in about ten kicks? The kick starter is hard now but I put oil down the spark plug hole and I’m going to leave it overnight. https://youtu.be/Xtm2EeoUUv0
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Dec 8, 2020 02:25
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Honda XR200R - my buddy was complaining of a rack tack tack type noise when it was running. I took the top end off today and this is the only thing I found that was weird but I’ve never taken one of these older Honda dirt bike motors apart before - one rocker hits the valve adjustment cover. Piston and valves look good but I didn’t take the valves out of the head. The bore will be probably be fine. What you're doing there in the video is neither here nor there because the cam is normally in the way so they can't possibly tilt far enough to touch the cover. 90% of the time an air cooled XR has a rattle it ends up being a timing chain stretched beyond the tensioner's ability to compensate for, it's a fairly common thing on all the small old Hondas built to that general layout
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Dec 8, 2020 04:22
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Ulf posted:Today I had to layer dan, somewhere between Deckers, CO and Sedalia. How did the gas get out? Did you jank off a fuel line or something?
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Dec 8, 2020 11:38
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Slavvy posted:The bore will be probably be fine. Thanks. And when timing it, how should I set the cam/sprocket in relation to the flywheel? T mark up on the flywheel, cam lobes down and O mark on the sprocket up?
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Dec 8, 2020 11:46
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SEKCobra posted:How did the gas get out? Did you jank off a fuel line or something?
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Dec 8, 2020 16:58
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Thanks. And when timing it, how should I set the cam/sprocket in relation to the flywheel? T mark up on the flywheel, cam lobes down and O mark on the sprocket up? No idea, not an encyclopedia  that's probably right, though the T mark rarely faces upwards, there will probably be some kind of marking somewhere that you line it up with. This is one of those things you're supposed to figure out before taking the engine apart!
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Dec 8, 2020 18:17
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Ulf posted:The floats went up, and the gas came out the overflow on the bowls, is my guess. Admittedly I have no ida how a fuel system like that works on a bike.
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Dec 8, 2020 20:34
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SEKCobra posted:Admittedly I have no ida how a fuel system like that works on a bike. That’s just carbs though.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:07
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:That’s just carbs though. There's three tiny seashells in the bowl, very straightforward.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:47
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Imagine four floats on the edge of a cliff. Carbs work the same way
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Dec 9, 2020 04:41
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"Carbs do not like it when gravity pulls into any other direction than down" -Nigel the Spitfire engineer, 1942
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Dec 10, 2020 08:56
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Combat Theory posted:"Carbs do not like it when gravity pulls into any other direction than down" So you're saying that OP needs to install Miss Shilling's Orifice then?
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Dec 10, 2020 10:19
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Only if he wants to fight Hans in his Messerschmitt during prolonged vertical engagements. I wonder how chainsaws fix that issue.
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Dec 10, 2020 13:15
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Combat Theory posted:Only if he wants to fight Hans in his Messerschmitt during prolonged vertical engagements. 2 strokes don't give none
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Dec 10, 2020 15:20
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Combat Theory posted:Only if he wants to fight Hans in his Messerschmitt during prolonged vertical engagements. They don't have a bowl, they feed the jet directly from a small passage that comes from a one-way valve connected to the little priming bulb thing. Source: I had to repair that exact thing on my weed eater last week.
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Dec 10, 2020 18:53
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Today i got out the can of vaseline spray and gave my SV a liberal helping of grease to protect all the metal bits from pitting from road salt. For the last two weeks it's been freezing at night, so whenever i ride, i find a fine layer of salty crap afterwards. So far the SV seems to hold up well like this, but drat - i really wanna clean it because it looks dirty, but if i do, it loses the protective coating of vaseline and chain lube splatter... Oh well. Guess i'll wash it next spring.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:29
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I really recommend acf50 for winterizing a bike. Wash it thoroughly then coat it liberally with acf. Me and my brother do a lot of winter riding with our 30 y.o nx250s, we've not had corrosion issues with using acf.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:38
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Supradog posted:I really recommend acf50 for winterizing a bike. Wash it thoroughly then coat it liberally with acf. How often do you refresh it?
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Dec 12, 2020 22:42
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I'd say that depends on washing/soaking. It will stick to metal but a shitton on water spray from rideing weeks in downpours will wash it off on exposed surfaces. We just spay it liberally so the engine and lower metal parts are slick/wet to the look when applying it to a clean dry bike. Edit: we don't ride enough in wet salty conditions to reapply over a winter.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:46
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Quoting myself from the other thread:Steakandchips posted:XCP Rust Proofer lasts longer than ACF (Ryan F9 did a great youtube on it), i.e. it won't wash away as easily from rain etc so you need to reapply it less often.
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Dec 14, 2020 14:35
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Today I basted my entire Ducati in ACF50 in hopes it will protect it through our salty New England winter. I tried my best to keep it off the tires, grips, pegs, etc, but it didn't seem like there were a ton of downsides to using it. It also made everything look really nice and shiny when I was done spraying it on and wiping it down. The bike smoked like a British woman once I started it up, but once it all kinda burns off and sets in I'm sure it'll be fine.
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Dec 23, 2020 22:46
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Can't believe you went with ACF instead of XCP (ACF is still good though and you're doing the right thing in rustproofing it)!
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Dec 23, 2020 23:18
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Steakandchips posted:Can't believe you went with ACF instead of XCP (ACF is still good though and you're doing the right thing in rustproofing it). I couldn't for the life of me find it in the US from a reputable place. From what I've read the difference is just longevity, so as long as I don't except ACF to last me a year (or even the entire winter) I assume I'll be good.
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Dec 23, 2020 23:19
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You can just put ACF50 on your exhaust and not worry about it. XCP will (according to what I’ve read) burn into a nice glaze on your headers. For what it’s worth, I just spray it on and don’t wipe it off. Excess will drip off and it’s not bad for anything like rubber or plastic so you don’t have to worry.
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Dec 24, 2020 03:05
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XCP is fine on my Harley's headers.Strife posted:I couldn't for the life of me find it in the US from a reputable place. From what I've read the difference is just longevity, so as long as I don't except ACF to last me a year (or even the entire winter) I assume I'll be good. Ah. Fair enough. You're doing the right thing. Steakandchips fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Dec 24, 2020 |
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Dec 24, 2020 12:10
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