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mcgreenvegtables posted:3/4" seems pretty thin...I was hoping to have it look more like a countertop. Also seems like the unfinished edge would really be a problem for me. See this random google image picture for what I'm envisioning. This is the usual way to make veneered plywood look thicker than it is:  Given that this is a radiator cover where one side is likely to be considerable warmer/dryer than the other, plywood may be a better option since solid wood is likely to warp in that situation. A prefab ikea glued up block countertop thing is probably less likely to warp than a solid slab of wood, which will def. move around in that situation. If you use veneered plywood, be aware the face veneer in VERY thin and easy to sand through (because it is already sanded to 120)so be careful with aligning whatever edge treatment you do.
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Dec 7, 2020 18:40
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mcgreenvegtables posted:I like the idea of just buying something. I will look into that. Any good vendors for such a thing? It’s not really designed for that, so you could probably do it, but the rounded over part would show some of the plys. That might actually look cool though if you have nice plywood, it would be like a trim line inset in your edge. However, what Kaiser just posted would be an even better way to go. Just buy a strip of hardwood and attach that to the edge. You can round that over to your hearts content, plus make the whole thing look thicker.
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Dec 7, 2020 18:45
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My new? table saw arrived today! The box was pretty beat up, but it mostly looks brand new. I found a few wood shavings though, so I'm guessing it was used to make a single cut? This thing is huge and heavy, I honestly thought it would be smaller.   I think I figured out why it was returned and so cheap from Amazon Warehouse deals. The tab that locks it into place for beveled cuts does not stay in place. It will not lock into any angle very tight at all, especially 90 degrees. I don't know if the last guy assembled it wrong or it came from the factory like this, but its easy enough to tighten or put an extra washer in there or something. I turned it on and it runs just fine (though it is very powerful and kind of scares me  )
Rutibex fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 19:23
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Rutibex posted:It will not lock into any angle very tight at all, especially 90 degrees.
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Dec 7, 2020 19:33
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Has anyone ever seen a saw like that set it into something like a 1” plywood toppped bench to make a bigger more rigid work surface, maybe even extending the T slots?
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Dec 7, 2020 19:45
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Discomancer posted:send it back, if it can't even stay locked at 90 it's totally worthless I'm sure that was the thinking of the last guy who ordered it. Its an easy fix though so I'm fine with it. $100 discount for the price of a washer is a good bargain 
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Dec 7, 2020 19:45
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Has anyone ever seen a saw like that set it into something like a 1” plywood toppped bench to make a bigger more rigid work surface, maybe even extending the T slots? search 'ultimate' and tablesaw on youtube and you'll see a thousand builds like that.
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Dec 7, 2020 19:46
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I made a twitter thread describing my Miata-constrained Dutch Tool Chest and the contents. Some opinions but no real hot takes or anything. I basically wanted it documented in one place so I could easily link to it later, but if anyone wants to see/critique my decisions, feel free: https://twitter.com/gemorris/status/1335293074969407490?s=20
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Dec 7, 2020 19:50
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If I put turtle wax on something that I now want to put a poly on, what would be the best way to remove the wax?
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Dec 7, 2020 20:19
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GEMorris posted:I made a twitter thread describing my Miata-constrained Dutch Tool Chest and the contents. Some opinions but no real hot takes or anything. I basically wanted it documented in one place so I could easily link to it later, but if anyone wants to see/critique my decisions, feel free: Sweet, love tool/tool storage porn and integrating into a car is a neat idea.
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Dec 7, 2020 20:24
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Huxley posted:If I put turtle wax on something that I now want to put a poly on, what would be the best way to remove the wax? Could you melt it off with a heat gun?
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Dec 7, 2020 20:26
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Rock My Socks! posted:Thanks! What would be the best way to preserve the wood (we do plan on painting it). I’m in Houston (super humid and wet) so this thing will need all the help it can get. My first thought is to use the same sort of sealants that you'd use for outdoor fencing or a deck... but you want the interior of your vegetable garden raised bed to be safe for contact with the soil and food plants inside, and I have no idea which if any of those sealants fits the bill. I can google, though, and I find articles like this and this which are somewhat useful: all of those sealants are presumably food/food-plant safe, but some of them will hold up particularly well to outdoor exposure (although they'll all be better than "nothing at all") - and some will be pretty expensive. Worse, several want you to re-apply sealant every couple of years, which... are you really going to empty and hose out your garden bed every two years? But check those lists out and maybe something in there will suit you. Or, to help preserve the wood, you can line the garden bed with thick plastic... and if you do that (make sure to add drainage), then you can get away with any wood treatment because the wood won't be in contact with the soil. In that case go with any outdoor wood fencing/deck sealant. Rutibex posted:My new? table saw arrived today! The box was pretty beat up, but it mostly looks brad new. I found a few wood shavings though, so I'm guessing it was used to make a single cut? This thing is huge and heavy, I honestly thought it was be smaller. It is definitely not huge or heavy enough, as you will learn as you start to use that thing. You need your table saw to be steady and rock solid, having it move around while you run wood through it is very dangerous. And, you need a big table for infeed and outfeed, and a wide table for running a sled across, and that table is neither. It honestly scares me with its cheapness and the fact it scares you too is a good start. You should treat it with great respect, be absolutely sure of what you're doing when you use it, and as soon as you can budget for a proper cabinet table saw (or just stop using it in favor of other tools like a bandsaw), the better. I can't begrudge someone on a limited budget looking for discounts, but boy that's a lot of lovely plastic and cheap aluminum construction for a tool that can take a finger off or fire a chunk of wood into your gut in an instant. Rutibex posted:Could you melt it off with a heat gun? no. The wax soaks into the fibers of the wood, heating it will help it penetrate further. You need a chemical stripper to remove furniture wax, unless you're willing to sand down through the surface.
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Dec 7, 2020 20:41
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Huxley posted:If I put turtle wax on something that I now want to put a poly on, what would be the best way to remove the wax? Mineral spirits, kerosene, or ideally VM&P Naphtha. Rotate/change rags frequently so you aren’t just smearing the wax around. Is the piece finished or is the wax on raw wood? Doing to be hard to remove it all from raw wood, but you could probably sand it down a bit. I’m not sure how much the remaining wax would mess with the poly anyway.
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Dec 7, 2020 20:42
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Huxley posted:If I put turtle wax on something that I now want to put a poly on, what would be the best way to remove the wax? Simple Green. GEMorris posted:I made a twitter thread describing my Miata-constrained Dutch Tool Chest and the contents. Some opinions but no real hot takes or anything. I basically wanted it documented in one place so I could easily link to it later, but if anyone wants to see/critique my decisions, feel free: Nice idea for a contest. Has to fit into a Miata
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Dec 7, 2020 20:42
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Rutibex posted:I'm sure that was the thinking of the last guy who ordered it. Its an easy fix though so I'm fine with it. $100 discount for the price of a washer is a good bargain Just remember that if the bevel comes lose and moves during a cut it will turn whatever your cutting into a javelin and immediately try to kill you with it so don't stand in the feed path.
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Dec 7, 2020 21:09
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Wouldn't the riving knife move with the blade and prevent that? Also what if the blade turns away from the wood instead of towards it?
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Dec 7, 2020 22:23
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If the blade is still in the slot of the cut when it rotates, it will totally grab the wood (either side of it) and may rip off the offcut and shoot it, or may just bog down, or maybe just twist the wood on the table, or it all depends really. It's just definitely No Bueno, the blade should not be able to move during operation and whatever clamps it down needs to be secure. e. Yeah if you have a riving knife it would move with the blade, and maybe that's save you. Or lift the wood or something. gently caress, I'm having a hard time imagining exactly what would happen, probably if you're cutting something thick enough, the riving knife would hold the blade at its angle. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 22:29
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I used plain mineral spirits on a rag
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Dec 7, 2020 22:41
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Speaking of cheap tools, how are these HF router bits? From will kill you to will mess up your work piece to will work, but go dull/break quickly? https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-woodworking-router-bit-set-15-pc-68872.html I wouldn't mind having a cheap set to see which ones I find useful and replacing them with quality parts, which is kinda how I normally use HF, but I also keep away from consumables like this.
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Dec 7, 2020 23:03
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If that is your strat at least buy the bottom end of name brand like Ryobi or Skil That said my strat is to buy Whiteside, Freud, or CMT as needed. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 23:16
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Uthor posted:Speaking of cheap tools, how are these HF router bits? From will kill you to will mess up your work piece to will work, but go dull/break quickly? They're a mixed bag. Not the best by any means but they cut ok if you babied them except one bit of the set I had the guide bearing burned out really quick and was probably mis-made from the factory. I'd say it's luck of the quality control draw. I haven't used them on any nice/hard/expensive wood, just pine and pallet boards.
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Dec 7, 2020 23:35
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It's not a horrible idea to get the classic inexpensive kit that has a bunch of weird ogee bits and stuff, but it's really a waste if money because you won't use most of it. I'd especially avoid getting things from harbor freight that get spun at 25,000 rpm, especially when they have soldered on carbide that might fly off. My most used router bits are spiral carbide in a few sizes, chamfer bit, small round overs and pattern/flush trim bits. Throw in a rabbet bit with different bearing sizes and that pretty much covers everything. I personally would go one bit at a time. CMT in particular is well priced and quite good. All of my big pattern bits are CMT. Bosch, Diablo and Freud bits are typically available at home centers and slightly overpriced, but still great. If you want the good stuff, it's Whiteside, Amana, Infinity, probably lots of others.
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Dec 7, 2020 23:37
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I bought my first two bits through McMaster. They weren't in any packaging, but are stamped "WKW", which I guess if these people? https://www.wkwinc.com/ecommerce/products/routerbits_web I might pick up that Skil set. Or just get what I need from McMaster again cause I have access to a discount. Still, it's kinda hard to pay $15 for a bit when one can get a set for $50, ya know.
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Dec 7, 2020 23:54
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Hey guys. I posted this in the Home Improvement thread but it didn't really land. I'm reposting here, hoping it's the best place for it. I bought a credenza that I'm in love with, and it just needs a little TLC. Here's what it looks like after a simple soap and water cleaning. Unfortunately, I think I may have scrubbed a little too hard with a basic scotchbrite kitchen sponge. It had some very old goop I was trying to get off, and I didn't realize that a small amount of elbow grease was going to wear down the finish:  This is what it looks like immediately after a wipe with some mineral spirits. Much more even coloring.  Given that I seem to have rubbed the stain off on the left side, what do you think is the best way to restore that whole top surface to a consistent color?
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Dec 8, 2020 03:57
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Hey guys. I posted this in the Home Improvement thread but it didn't really land. I'm reposting here, hoping it's the best place for it. Sorry I forgot to respond to your other post in the other thread. Since it comes out looking fine with mineral spirits on it, I would not put any additional stain on. It would probably make the areas where you rubbed through the finish much much darker as they would take stain and the rest would not. I would lightly scuff sand the entire top with 320 grit sandpaper and then recoat with the clear finish of your choice. I would suggest clear, dewaxed shellac (you can get it as Zinsser seal coat at big box places or mix your own from flakes) since the existing finish is an unknown and shellac is very compatible with other finishes. You could do poly over the shellac, but then you're making a finish sandwich with a lot of unknowns and that could lead to cracking or adhesion issues down the road. If you do a few coats of shellac and wax over top, it's a fairly durable finish that is also easy to repair if needed.
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Dec 8, 2020 04:14
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Huxley posted:If I put turtle wax on something that I now want to put a poly on, what would be the best way to remove the wax? Most solvents will work, but 90%+ alcohol works best for me, followed by a pass or two with a card scraper for the last little bit stuck in the grain.
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Dec 8, 2020 06:25
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Uthor posted:Still, it's kinda hard to pay $15 for a bit when one can get a set for $50, ya know. I understand the feeling but I've bought the cheap sets and any time I need to replace a bit or buy a different one for a specific job I pay for a decent one.
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Dec 8, 2020 12:26
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I spend cheap on wood bits because I'm rarely doing hard work. Except for hole saws, which I do spend big on. The only drill bits worth spending $15+ on each are tungsten carbide or cobalt ones and the only reason I get them is because HSS doesn't go through martensitic stainless for knives very easily if at all
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Dec 8, 2020 12:58
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Huxley posted:If I put turtle wax on something that I now want to put a poly on, what would be the best way to remove the wax? The solution to “best” as in “most thoroughly” would be xylene at eighty centigrade, but that’s a doozy of a process.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:11
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Thanks all for the help! Mineral spirits, blue dawn, and careful elbow grease got me far enough along I felt comfortable putting on a new finish.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:22
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If I cover my router table in formica, do I need a special router bit to cut the slots for the t-tracks?
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Dec 8, 2020 17:02
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Hey all, a former coworker of mine has asked me to build for her a wooden puzzle box as part of a gift for her boyfriend. She's waiting on a sketch and an estimate, but I'm unsure how much to charge for this, as I've never really had a commission before and I've never made a box like this. The box will be roughly 12" x 10" x 6", have a cthulu symbol burned onto the top and bottom (so you can't tell which side is up). The lid will be locked using a centrifugal pin method, meaning you have to spin the box in order to release the four pins holding the lid in place. She would also like it to have a spring loaded secret compartment. Here's a couple videos showing both methods: https://youtu.be/E-WeFZJFTZs https://youtu.be/KeqfWnguKiY I'm also thinking of using coved sides made using the table saw method to give it a little bit of gothic flair. Planning on using cherry and thin maple plywood. My gut is telling me to ask $400 for this, but I would love to hear some opinions.
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Dec 8, 2020 18:31
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$400 sounds fair to me considering how complex and time consuming it would be to make a puzzle box like that. It's not something you could buy in a store, and not something you could easily make without decent tools. But the real question is, how rich is she? What price will turn her off?
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Dec 8, 2020 18:52
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Rutibex posted:$400 sounds fair to me considering how complex and time consuming it would be to make a puzzle box like that. It's not something you could buy in a store, and not something you could easily make without decent tools. Def not rich to my knowledge; I suspect she'll balk at $400 but we'll see. I'll offer to make the box for $300 sans the spring loaded secret compartment, which would make it a much easier build.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:02
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Secret compartments and mechanisms of all sorts are very time consuming and fiddly IME, especially if this is your first attempt at that mechanism. Expect to do it two or three times to get it to actually 'work' seamlessly. (and then the humidity changes and it sticks and now they're mad at you). As for how much to charge, how many hours do you think it will take you? Think about stock prep, sizing, cutting joints, sanding, finishing, fitting a fiddly mechanism etc. and multiply by how much your time is worth to you and add that to your materials cost and that will get a you decent price. $400 doesn't sound outrageously high or low as far as your time is concerned. I'd guess if I did it, I'd wind up with 5-15hrs in it all told? That's a big range but, really depends alot on how complicated it is (I didn't watch all about the mechanism).
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Dec 8, 2020 19:22
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Bet she’s expecting it to cost $40-$50. Go with your gut, if that’s what you think it’ll take to make it worth your while then stick with it.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:37
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Bet she’s expecting it to cost $40-$50.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:40
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Thanks for the input guys; she was at $200, which I would do if it was just a box. But with all the extra puzzle stuff I just couldn't justify that.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:59
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Jumping back to YouTuber thoughts: The only folks I like are the "no commentary" folks that just show themselves working and the finished product, Ishitani is like the progenitor of this style I think, but other pros like Square Rule, and ViTTEN do this style, as well as younger/newer pros like The Offcut and Kobeomusk, as well as hobbyists like Jenn's Mistake. Anyhow, I just found The Offcut today and I think he's definitely worth watching as he shows what you can do in a small space with little equipment (like a track saw, a small contractor table saw, and a benchtop drill press)
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Dec 8, 2020 20:16
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Big Dick Cheney posted:If I cover my router table in formica, do I need a special router bit to cut the slots for the t-tracks? Just carbide, which you'll almost certainly be using anyway. A 3/4" bit would probably do it in a couple of passes.
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Dec 8, 2020 20:23
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