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Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed

spoon daddy posted:

Apologies for just drive by questioning. I broke my 3D Printer cherry a while back and am about to dive back into things with an upgrade. I am about to pull the trigger on a Prusa MK3S+ and I'm about to get both the PEI and Smooth sheets. Based on what I saw in this thread PETG works better with the smooth sheets and PLA works better with PEI sheets. Since I have both types of filament. that seems like the right choice. Looking for some validation!


All of the Prusa sheets are PEI-coated and only differ in surface finish. They have three kinds: smooth, powder-coated textured finish, and new satin-finish. The smooth ones work for pretty much everything and have the highest adhesion. The textured ones apply a neat texture to the bottom of your parts and have slightly lower adhesion. Satin is somewhere in between.

The PLA/PET thing is because PET adheres extremely strongly to PEI. If you have a nice clean smooth sheet and you print a PET part that has a large surface area, it can stick to the bed so well that you'll damage it trying to separate them. The textured surface of the powder-coated bed helps decrease adhesion and makes PET more successful...but it's actually worse in other cases, like for regular PLA, where the adhesion of the normal bed is appropriate.

However, you don't have to use the textured sheet for PET. You can use the smooth sheet and apply an "interface layer" to the surface, either a layer of glue stick or just wiping it down with Windex, which leaves a thin film of soap that reduces the adhesion just enough to prevent damage without letting the part break loose. Then for printing PLA, wash it off with soap so it's clean.

Prusa has all of this listed on their website, e.g. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/petg_2059

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The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

spoon daddy posted:

Apologies for just drive by questioning. I broke my 3D Printer cherry a while back and am about to dive back into things with an upgrade. I am about to pull the trigger on a Prusa MK3S+ and I'm about to get both the PEI and Smooth sheets. Based on what I saw in this thread PETG works better with the smooth sheets and PLA works better with PEI sheets. Since I have both types of filament. that seems like the right choice. Looking for some validation!

Both the Prusa texured and smooth sheets are PEI. The smooth sheet is a layer of PEI stuck on top of a steel sheet. The textured one is PEI applied directly and weirdly to the steel.

PETG works best on the textured sheet. PLA works great on the smooth.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed

The Eyes Have It posted:

PETG works best on the textured sheet. PLA works great on the smooth.

Again, this is more complicated than X for A, Y for B. The textured sheet does not stick as well and that's good for PET because it's very sticky on PEI. It is 100% possible to print PET on the smooth sheet, you just have to be aware of the increased adhesion.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

I will say that having a textured sheet for petg and a smooth sheet for pla has been real nice. No need to mess with anything extra is just convenient.

Does suck when I swap sheets and forget to change the profile on the printer though.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

spoon daddy posted:

Apologies for just drive by questioning. I broke my 3D Printer cherry a while back and am about to dive back into things with an upgrade. I am about to pull the trigger on a Prusa MK3S+ and I'm about to get both the PEI and Smooth sheets. Based on what I saw in this thread PETG works better with the smooth sheets and PLA works better with PEI sheets. Since I have both types of filament. that seems like the right choice. Looking for some validation!

You've got it backwards.

PLA/ABS/etc. on the smooth PEI sheet, PETG on the textured PEI sheet.

Or you can get the Satin sheet and do whatever you want.

spoon daddy
Aug 11, 2004
Who's your daddy?
College Slice

The Eyes Have It posted:

Both the Prusa texured and smooth sheets are PEI. The smooth sheet is a layer of PEI stuck on top of a steel sheet. The textured one is PEI applied directly and weirdly to the steel.

PETG works best on the textured sheet. PLA works great on the smooth.

Once the kit comes I'm sure I'll have more questions once it arrives but many thanks for the quick responses. Helped clarify things for me. I think this and the past few posts are enough for me to justify getting the 2nd sheet even if I don't use use one more than the other.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

mattfl posted:

Clean the bed lately?

Try cleaning the build surface too. :haw:

Maigius
Jun 29, 2013


mattfl posted:

Clean the bed lately?

I did, but things may have still been wet. I wasn't watching it at the time, (bad idea) and I later found a very partial print. No idea what happened, as the same print is now completing fine. :iiam:
I did clean the bed first for good measure though.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Ok HOLY poo poo this was weird just now. I received the silent mainboard for the Ender 3 today, flashed Marlin onto it and just started the first print on it. The fan was whirling like always on the PSU and I figured it won't be long until it starts printing. Then all of a sudden I catch a glimpse in the corner of my eye and notice the Z axis moving down from where I put it for servicing. The way this thing suddenly moves in ABSOLUTE SILENCE was almost scary, this is such a day and night difference. Like I was expecting a lot of the noise to be gone, but at least some mechanical noise or something. But nope, the fan now is the only thing making noise.
I never was bothered by the operational sounds, but this thing still kinda blew my mind.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Yeah the stealth modes for the TMC stepper drivers are fantastic. I wish quieter fans were cheaper.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed
Didya know that a Prusa comes with silent Trinamic drivers and Noctua fans right out of the box???

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Sagebrush posted:

Didya know that a Prusa comes with silent Trinamic drivers and Noctua fans right out of the box???

Well I can afford a lot of Noctua fans and motherboards for the price difference.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Sagebrush posted:

Didya know that a Prusa comes with silent Trinamic drivers and Noctua fans right out of the box???

It also comes with Prusa emblazoned on it for an extra $400.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

edit: Bah, never mind.

Hamburlgar
Dec 31, 2007

WANTED
The Ender 3 v2 has silent stepper motor drivers and costs only $270.

I built my whole print farm for ~the price of an assembled Prusa i3 MK3s+.

I’m certain that a Prusa would have gotten me printing high quality prints out of the gate, but I’m able to pump out prints at a crazy speed with 5 machines. I have plants for expanding and even those would be the Ender 3 V2.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Aurium posted:

You're welcome. The next thing would be resistance between fan- (that fan connector where you probed is fine) and DCV- on the power supply. This'll measure the fan mostfet. It should be open circuit.

Also, as it's a mosfet, and your meter has a diode test function (sharing space on the conductivity function). So if you like you can check the body diode, I don't know your exact meter, but I'm thinking it'll beep and tell you the voltage drop if it works, it'll probably be .6v.

One last idea for a test. If you have a led hanging around you can watch it as it brightens or not. A problem is that our eyes also respond on a curve, and it's much harder to tell brightness differences in bright things than dim things.

But we can just make the led dim, I don't really know how well it'll work. Also, the range between 0-255 might be too broad to work on a single resistor. You might have to look at the range of 0-127 with one, and 127-255 with another. Also you'll probably need to do jumps in like 10-20 to see any difference.

Anyway, just go across fan+ to fan- with a led and a 4.7k resistor in series. That should keep it pretty dim. You can go higher if it's too bright, but don't go below 600 if it's too dim.

To be honest, I don't really have a good explanation for what's going on, and I don't have a reason to doubt your meter with what I've seen either, and have pretty much run out of easy tests.. I looked at creality's marlin github, and they're not doing anything obvious with fan speeds.

Comedy option: You say you have 2 fans? They'll probably still run if you give them 12v. You could try running them in series. Donno if they'll give you enough cooling.

I had some stuff come up and disappeared for a few days but I was able to finally get in front of my printer again and pick up where we left off and when using the V- connection instead of the AC ground, I actually get the same results.

I'm thinking maybe it's just something hosed with my Creality 8-bit silent board, and this might be an excuse to upgrade to the new 32-bit version. I'll reflash Marlin on it before that though to see if that changes anything. It really feels like a software issue after all this testing.


To be relevant to the current discussion, aside from my cooling fan problem I've been discussing, my Ender 3 is near silent. I have a 40x20 12v Noctua fan on my hotend, and 40x10 Noctua 12v fan for the mainboard, and a 60mm Noctua fan with a printed cover on a Meanwell powersupply. You can't even tell the printer is on before my cooling fans turn on. First layer is dead silent.

SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Dec 11, 2020

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

SEKCobra posted:

Ok HOLY poo poo this was weird just now. I received the silent mainboard for the Ender 3 today, flashed Marlin onto it and just started the first print on it. The fan was whirling like always on the PSU and I figured it won't be long until it starts printing. Then all of a sudden I catch a glimpse in the corner of my eye and notice the Z axis moving down from where I put it for servicing. The way this thing suddenly moves in ABSOLUTE SILENCE was almost scary, this is such a day and night difference. Like I was expecting a lot of the noise to be gone, but at least some mechanical noise or something. But nope, the fan now is the only thing making noise.
I never was bothered by the operational sounds, but this thing still kinda blew my mind.

I have a silent MB for my Ender 5 and I’m putting off installing it because I am afraid I’m going to miss my printer singing cute songs to me. :smith:

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

SpartanIvy posted:

To be relevant to the current discussion, aside from my cooling fan problem I've been discussing, my Ender 3 is near silent. I have a 40x20 12v Noctua fan on my hotend, and 40x10 Noctua 12v fan for the mainboard, and a 60mm Noctua fan with a printed cover on a Meanwell powersupply. You can't even tell the printer is on before my cooling fans turn on. First layer is dead silent.

I have any Ender 3 pro, I need 24v fans right?

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

Hamburlgar posted:

The Ender 3 v2 has silent stepper motor drivers and costs only $270.

The v2 is such a nice machine, and you can get them for well under $270 (most of the time) now.

I was wildly disillusioned with Creality quality back with the base Ender 3, but the v2 is just so goddamn nice right out of the box. Using this thing for a few months now and visions of having a little farm are dancing around in my head again.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Doctor Zero posted:

I have a silent MB for my Ender 5 and I’m putting off installing it because I am afraid I’m going to miss my printer singing cute songs to me. :smith:

Yeah I kinda miss the sound, and the fans are really annoying now.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I don't miss the singing but the fans are climbing up my jobs list

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

cakesmith handyman posted:

I have any Ender 3 pro, I need 24v fans right?

Yes, but you can get DC to DC buck converters to step down the voltage from 24v to 12v, which is what I did for the board fan and hot end fan.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Shots loving fired today.

Watch this!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTI2XFXlY6o

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
So maybe this is a dumb question and the answer is to just use Fusion 360, but I'd like to do some geometric sketching with features like they are in Fusion 360's sketch mode, but I want to make some vector graphics from it. Is there some software that works about as intuitively as Fusion? Or can I just somehow get nice Vector Graphics from Fusion?

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

lol my printer is a rebadged version of this and I didn't have a single one of these problems.

(Admittedly I *have* had problems with it that I've documented here, and I'll definitely replace it with a decent brand one at some point in the future, I just find it funny that my shack-in-Shenzhen rebadger managed to provide both better software and better support than the actual manufacturer)

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Hamburlgar posted:

The Ender 3 v2 has silent stepper motor drivers and costs only $270.

I built my whole print farm for ~the price of an assembled Prusa i3 MK3s+.

I’m certain that a Prusa would have gotten me printing high quality prints out of the gate, but I’m able to pump out prints at a crazy speed with 5 machines. I have plants for expanding and even those would be the Ender 3 V2.

Are you thinking about any kind of management for the farm? Octoprint?

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


SEKCobra posted:

So maybe this is a dumb question and the answer is to just use Fusion 360, but I'd like to do some geometric sketching with features like they are in Fusion 360's sketch mode, but I want to make some vector graphics from it. Is there some software that works about as intuitively as Fusion? Or can I just somehow get nice Vector Graphics from Fusion?

InkScape maybe? It does a pretty good job of auto-creating the vectors, too, if you have a good sharp definition of lines in the image you want to trace.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

AlexDeGruven posted:

InkScape maybe? It does a pretty good job of auto-creating the vectors, too, if you have a good sharp definition of lines in the image you want to trace.

Can I do constraints in inkscape?

Hamburlgar
Dec 31, 2007

WANTED

Doctor Zero posted:

Are you thinking about any kind of management for the farm? Octoprint?

None of them really offer them what I want. I’m also not very code savvy so I don’t really fancy the frustration of trying to get multiple raspberry pis set up and running properly. I’d need 2 as a minimum for my 5 printers, which ruins the whole ‘control printers from my phone’ in one interface idea.

I have the same gcode on each of my printers, and most of my prints are in the ~12hr time frame. I remove the prints / start new prints in the morning and do the same thing at night. I check on how the machines are doing periodically through the day, as the print room is the next room over from the bathroom on my house.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Well poo poo.

https://youtu.be/vz4DDZhTpWw

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

SEKCobra posted:

So maybe this is a dumb question and the answer is to just use Fusion 360, but I'd like to do some geometric sketching with features like they are in Fusion 360's sketch mode, but I want to make some vector graphics from it. Is there some software that works about as intuitively as Fusion? Or can I just somehow get nice Vector Graphics from Fusion?

Export as DXFs and pull them into Illustrator?

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.


without any sense of irony, this is the closest I've been tempted to getting a Prusa.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Export as DXFs and pull them into Illustrator?

They work fine in Inkscape, too. Exporting sketches and faces as DXFs has been pretty critical for my laser cutting.

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


I broke the side off my filament spool while trying to fix a nasty tangle. Can I just like, put the filament in a bucket and run it from there, or will it continuously tangle itself that way?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Class Warcraft posted:

I broke the side off my filament spool while trying to fix a nasty tangle. Can I just like, put the filament in a bucket and run it from there, or will it continuously tangle itself that way?

Filament will continuously tangle if it's not on a spool. Kind of like fishing line.

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


Is there an effort post somewhere for resin printers? I am full of questions.

I want to get into printing minis for role play and war gaming. I was looking at the Saturn, since it would let me print a vehicle or squad or adventuring party at once. But I also see the Mono X, E10, and Sonic Mighty in that space and I trying to figure out how to figure out which is best for me.

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010

Class Warcraft posted:

I broke the side off my filament spool while trying to fix a nasty tangle. Can I just like, put the filament in a bucket and run it from there, or will it continuously tangle itself that way?

I think it could work, but I have concerns. There are filamentish things sold in bucket like containers. Twine immediately comes to mind, but I know I've seen others.

It's probably not as simple as put pile into bucket. I'd want to feed it in so that it recoils in the bucket so as to make sure there aren't later coils on top of newer coils. I imagine a scenario where the feed is lifting a loop. I wouldn't really call it a tangle, but it could still get caught on something and kink or jam.

Also pulling out of a coil introduces a twisting motion that unspooling doesn't. If you've ever coiled a garden or air hose you'll feel how it wants to twist to lay flat. I'd expect the filament to rotate in the extruder and this to not matter, but it is possible that it would build up tension until is causes an issue in the pile instead.

Also, I'd expect it to be even more vulnerable to loosing the end.

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

NewFatMike posted:

They work fine in Inkscape, too. Exporting sketches and faces as DXFs has been pretty critical for my laser cutting.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but the Export DXF feature in F360 is behind the paywall now, AFAIK.

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010

Here4DaGangBang posted:

Correct me if I’m wrong, but the Export DXF feature in F360 is behind the paywall now, AFAIK.

Their messaging on dxf is all over the place, but it's still free.

Make a sketch on whatever face you want a dxf of. Right click on the sketch on the list and save it as dxf.

There might have been some sort of file -> export option that's gone, but I never used it in the first place.

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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Aurium posted:

Their messaging on dxf is all over the place, but it's still free.

Make a sketch on whatever face you want a dxf of. Right click on the sketch on the list and save it as dxf.

There might have been some sort of file -> export option that's gone, but I never used it in the first place.

Holy moly I would not have been able to hold it together if that was true.

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