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Stitecin posted:I found a running 1984 Honda 700sc listed for $800, guy will go as low as $500. Is there a good place to look up these bikes for known issues to be ware of when I go see it? Definitely worth it at $500 if it has a title the motor can be seen running. It's never going to be a museum piece unless you spend way more than it's worth but if you're looking for the 80's bike experience this isn't a bad way to go. IIRC many parts are cribbed from the Nighthawk 650 and other Hondas of the time. Keep in mind the front wheel is a 16" which can feel strange and there aren't many great tire options for it. hoho`win posted:Tell me more about these cheap old wings in the Chicago area! That one seems to be well sorted out, but the price isn't fantastic considering the market. Check the manufacturing date on the tires. If it runs well, has all the luggage, and everything works I think you should offer him $1500. If he or she balks, look a little further north into the WI area, I've never found Chicago to be a very good bike market.
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# ? Nov 25, 2020 15:54 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 16:39 |
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Gorson posted:
You're spot on. It was mechanically well-sorted but no luggage and plenty of minor cosmetic issues. Offered $1,200 and walked away. Lots of fish in the sea and having a 3rd bike isn't critical.
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# ? Nov 25, 2020 18:09 |
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hoho`win posted:You're spot on. It was mechanically well-sorted but no luggage and plenty of minor cosmetic issues. Offered $1,200 and walked away. Lots of fish in the sea and having a 3rd bike isn't critical. Plus we're getting into the season of lowering prices.
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# ? Nov 25, 2020 19:08 |
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The nice thing about wings is they have been crazy popular from day one, so outside of goofy model revisions that didn’t last long (gl1200 fuel injected, etc), they are not at all rare. You shouldn’t pay more than market for one unless there is a really good reason behind it. It’s very much a buyers market and the sellers don’t have much leverage on them because of how common they are You can always walk and find another very quickly. E: this applies to the US only, no idea what wing supply is like in other countries
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# ? Nov 25, 2020 21:49 |
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There is a decent supply of old wings here in Norway too. And do not forget that all the big 4 Japanese had their big 80s tourers. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_Venture_Royale https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_GV1400_Cavalcade https://www.bikeswiki.com/Kawasaki_ZN1300_Voyager Edit: on a related note, I've never seen the Alpha(?) naming convention used for tire size before like on that zn1300: Front tire size: MR90-18, tubeless (its 120/90?) Rear tire size: MU90-16, tubeless (its 140/90?) Supradog fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Nov 26, 2020 |
# ? Nov 25, 2020 22:39 |
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Supradog posted:And do not forget that all big 4 Japanese had their big 80s tourers. it's like a 70's custom van died and got reincarnated as a motorcycle
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# ? Nov 26, 2020 00:53 |
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They were also all bananas. Kawis 1300 was an i6, and both the Yamaha and Suzuki were V4’s
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# ? Nov 26, 2020 02:45 |
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We got a Royale in the shop right now, I'm really liking it. It says "Royale" on it in cursive. I dunno what else you need in a motorcycle.
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# ? Nov 26, 2020 06:14 |
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Cheese
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# ? Nov 26, 2020 06:35 |
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Gorson posted:Definitely worth it at $500 if it has a title the motor can be seen running. It's never going to be a museum piece unless you spend way more than it's worth but if you're looking for the 80's bike experience this isn't a bad way to go. IIRC many parts are cribbed from the Nighthawk 650 and other Hondas of the time. Keep in mind the front wheel is a 16" which can feel strange and there aren't many great tire options for it. Pirelli Sport Demons have been doing me fine on mine. Can you talk about the 16" front feeling odd? I haven't really noticed, but my motorcycle experience is this, a Ninja 250, and a demo ride on an Indian Scout.
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# ? Nov 26, 2020 19:22 |
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Is this a bad idea? https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/portland-1980-honda-twinstar-200cc/7237680495.html I've been wanting something small to get going on again, except this time I actually intend to wrench on it and fix it up. Thoughts?
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 01:07 |
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The price isn’t horrible, but that’s a distinctly mundane bike. Any reason you’re going after that model?
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 01:39 |
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Cost, really. Nothing particularly stands out to me more than the price tag. I have been looking around for ninjas/cbrs because they honestly look like a lot of fun to learn on but they're all either far more work than I want to start off with, or too much to currently afford. After typing this out I'm realizing I'm just being super impatient and ill probably hold off while I keep looking.
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 09:01 |
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I think that bike looks cute. I'd totally have fun on it, especially at that price. But a 1980 honda I've never heard of?! Where would you source parts for that? You should But Not Tonight posted:probably hold off while you keep looking. Because if you add up the parts you'll need for something like that you can probably get a nice EX250 instead.
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 16:06 |
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That looks like something that would make you decide you didn't want to get back into motorcycles after all. What's your budget? edit: lol good lord portland bike prices are crazy These look good but overpriced by about $1000 like everything else: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/fairview-drz400-suzuki-2003/7227046805.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/portland-1999-yamaha-xt-350/7239079121.html This isn't insane: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/d/portland-suzuki-tu250x/7238841168.html HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Dec 3, 2020 |
# ? Dec 3, 2020 18:19 |
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I'd like to budget 2000-2500 for the bike itself, that Suzuki is actually looking real nice for the price. I had a feeling Portland is all over the place with prices, I'll definitely come check in here first 'cause y'all definitely know more about this than me. edit: vvv I should say I have my search radius extended to about 150 miles out from my place, but maybe I should widen that net more. But Not Tonight fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Dec 3, 2020 |
# ? Dec 3, 2020 19:28 |
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But Not Tonight posted:I'd like to budget 2000-2500 for the bike itself, that Suzuki is actually looking real nice for the price. I had a feeling Portland is all over the place with prices, I'll definitely come check in here first 'cause y'all definitely know more about this than me. I'd start by looking outside Portland. COVID is a bad time to be buying expensive used toys, but winter is usually a good time for that, so maybe prices will be better in a month.
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 19:46 |
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here you go https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/d/auburn-1972-honda-350/7229527023.html 900 bucks for a non-runner in that sort of aesthetic shape is fair. it probably just needs a new battery and a good carb cleaning. there have been more cb350s sold in the usa than any other motorcycle in history so there are lots of parts available. if you wanna buy a vintage bike specifically to wrench on, that's the one
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 20:10 |
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Sagebrush posted:here you go drat I am tempted to tell my friend in seattle to go buy that for me looks like cosmetically in pretty great condition would be fun to learn to wrench on.
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 21:38 |
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Go for it, I in no way have any kind of dibs on it and I'm still a month or so out from being in a good place to start spending money on toys so I'm just shopping and sighing for now. Though it is a very nice bike and in pretty dece condition going by those pictures, thanks for digging that one up for me Sagebrush.
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# ? Dec 3, 2020 22:29 |
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I'm looking for my first bike and there's a CBR250 that came up locally. It's a 2012 with only ~3000 miles, so what do I need to look for that can "age" besides tires and battery? I'll multi meter it to see if it's been stored properly. Tires are "only 25% worn" so I'll need to check the dates, i assume they're original. They're asking $2400, but I was thinking 2k max, maybe start with offer of 1900. There are a couple of blemishes from a 0mph tip over too.
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# ? Dec 12, 2020 03:18 |
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3000 miles in 8 years isn't actually that abnormal for a bike in that class. Like yeah you want to be riding more than that (the average american rider hits about 1000 miles a year, apparently, lol) but it's not too bad. Check the tires, yes, as they're almost certainly past their best-before date, even if they aren't worn out. Get the guy to knock off 200-300 bucks for new tires. Battery should probably just be replaced outright, that's another 80ish, so yeah that'll put you at 2000. Not much else on the bike is gonna age to the point of destruction over that interval. Change the oil and ideally the brake fluid if you get it. People lie all the time about "0mph" tip overs; if the marks have any sort of horizontal scratching in them it wasn't just falling over in the driveway. It's not a dealbreaker if they crashed it at low speed but check for bent levers (especially to make sure e.g. the brake pedal isn't bent in a way that it's not moving through its full travel, etc) and make sure the fork is straight and aligned with the bars and wheel.
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# ? Dec 12, 2020 05:07 |
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Also thanks to COVID I'm probably under 1000 miles this year tbh
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# ? Dec 12, 2020 05:07 |
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Russian Bear posted:I'm looking for my first bike and there's a CBR250 that came up locally. It's a 2012 with only ~3000 miles, so what do I need to look for that can "age" besides tires and battery? I'll multi meter it to see if it's been stored properly. Tires are "only 25% worn" so I'll need to check the dates, i assume they're original. They're asking $2400, but I was thinking 2k max, maybe start with offer of 1900. There are a couple of blemishes from a 0mph tip over too. Change: Battery Tyres Oil Get a battery tender for it so you don't need to keep replacing the battery. The Optimate 1 https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/optimate-1-duo is ideal as it'll charge and maintain any type of battery. Also, get a disklock/D Lock and a chain (you probably have these already as you cycle lots). And a cover if it's going to live outside. And chain cleaner and chain lube (motorcycle chain lube is not the same as bicycle chain lube, the former is a lot "stickier" than the latter to prevent it being "flung off").
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# ? Dec 12, 2020 15:14 |
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Steakandchips posted:And chain cleaner and chain lube (motorcycle chain lube is not the same as bicycle chain lube, the former is a lot "stickier" than the latter to prevent it being "flung off"). Data point: I use the same aerosol can of motorcycle chain wax on my motorcycles and bicycles alike and it's great. It doesn't flick black oil all over your pants for a week after application like bicycle chain lube does (it still turns black obviously, just doesn't fling), it keeps the chain really nice and quiet and shifting well, and it lasts longer too. Yeah you might lose like 0.3% efficiency because the grease is heavier but unless you are literally Lance Armstrong who gives a poo poo. Use it on your bike and be happy. Also instead of buying a can of "chain cleaner" you can just use any nonpolar solvent like mineral spirits, paint thinner, lamp oil, lighter fluid, hexane, kerosene, or even WD-40. Just make sure that you oil/wax the chain properly afterwards. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Dec 13, 2020 |
# ? Dec 13, 2020 04:36 |
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Sagebrush posted:Data point: I use the same aerosol can of motorcycle chain wax on my motorcycles and bicycles alike and it's great. It doesn't flick black oil all over your pants for a week after application like bicycle chain lube does (it still turns black obviously, just doesn't fling), it keeps the chain really nice and quiet and shifting well, and it lasts longer too. Just be careful, no matter what solvent you use, to rinse it off thoroughly before putting the lube on. Not only will residual solvent obviously stop the lube getting where it needs to go, almost all motorbike chains have rubber o-rings* which can be seriously damaged if solvents are allowed to sit on them for too long. * I'm old enough to remember when everyone used to say that there was no need at all to clean or lube o-ring chains and in fact it was dangerous to do so for ~reasons~
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# ? Dec 13, 2020 11:23 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Just be careful, no matter what solvent you use, to rinse it off thoroughly before putting the lube on. Not only will residual solvent obviously stop the lube getting where it needs to go, almost all motorbike chains have rubber o-rings* which can be seriously damaged if solvents are allowed to sit on them for too long. Used to?
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# ? Dec 13, 2020 17:17 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Just be careful, no matter what solvent you use, to rinse it off thoroughly before putting the lube on. With what, exactly? Like yeah you don't want to use something chlorinated like brake cleaner, or something polar like acetone or aromatic like xylene. But pure mineral spirits (kerosene, paint thinner, lamp oil) are just a lighter fraction of the same oil/grease/wax you're about to apply. Dip the chain in kerosene, wipe it down with a rag, let it drip-dry for a few minutes, apply chain wax. Done. e: i guess Kawasaki wants you to use compressed air to really blow the chain dry but they agree that kerosene is the right stuff.
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# ? Dec 13, 2020 20:50 |
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I mean shut up shut up shut up chain cleaning is right up there with engine oil and countersteering
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# ? Dec 13, 2020 20:53 |
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Last year BMW started offering a maintenance-free chain as an options https://www.asphaltandrubber.com/products/bmw-m-endurance-chain/, I'm curious to read tests once it's out there in the world. Maybe it chews up your sprockets?
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 08:04 |
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my money is on it still requires maintenance
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 15:36 |
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right arm posted:my money is on it still requires maintenance "Maintenance-free from BMW" is an oxymoron
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 15:56 |
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Far be it from me to question German engineers and special coatings, but that thing is just an X-ring chain that performs okay when not lubricated. You know, the thing that will happen when you tell the owner they don't have to lubricate it. It will probably still stick when it gets covered in rust and road grime and sand bits when it's bone dry. If only someone could invent a technology where the drive is shielded from the outside world. Encased or something. Gosh, what if BMW had a technology like that that didn't even need a chain?!
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 16:01 |
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I’m sure it’s similar to their lifetime transmission fluid and other lifetime fluid where really they mean no more than 100k miles really.
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 16:09 |
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"Lifetime of the vehicle warranty"
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 16:14 |
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The only thing I can think of that would be even close to a maintenance free chain is one of those setups where the entire chain and rear sprocket are enclosed in a metal case. That’s still not “maintenance free” it’s just “way longer maintenance intervals than normal”. Parts rubbing is parts rubbing and they’re gonna wear out eventually.
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 16:16 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The only thing I can think of that would be even close to a maintenance free chain is one of those setups where the entire chain and rear sprocket are enclosed in a metal case. I don't get why that isn't more common though, it might looks silly but apart from your chain being lubed, it also protects you and your bike from the lube flinging off.
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 16:37 |
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I mean the exposed chain looks cool and has the same look as a bicycle, but it seems like something that should be enclosed. It's a part that doesn't really like exposure to the elements/grime, and is dangerous.
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 16:41 |
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The new Super Cub has an enclosed chain. Just how extended are the maintenance intervals? Like, Scottoiler-extended?
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 20:57 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 16:39 |
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I’d imagine even more than that because chains with scottoilers can still get dirty, whereas the enclosed ones really can’t
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# ? Dec 14, 2020 21:20 |