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If the above doesn't work, I would say it sounds like you got a DOA motherboard or PSU. If you have a multimeter you should be able to test the PSU. I don't think you've permanently damaged the motherboard by putting it on the static bag. When I put together my ver first computer when I was pretty young, the CPU was DOA. Took me a while to figure that out. Sucks, but it happens.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:34
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flip the switch on the PSU. 
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Dec 11, 2020 22:38
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Anyone seen this one before? Fired up my ~3 week old PC that's been working flawlessly and I notice absolutely none of the fans are spinning. Water cooled, so there's 4 case fans and 3 radiator fans. Pump was running at default speed I think (800 RPM?). Dig around and discover it's because the motherboard is reading both the CPU and MOS temps as 0C. Download Core Temp and all the cores are reporting as normal (~30C). Rebooted a couple times, dicked around in the BIOS with fan profiles, nothing worked. Tried deleting MSI's Dragon Center (since I've heard it can do weird poo poo) and now it's working again though after I clicked the uninstall button I got called away from the computer before it actually finished uninstalling. Came back and computer was asleep, woke it up and the fans came on like they should, checked and both CPU and mosfet temps look normal. It probably was that lovely software doing something weird but I just don't know for sure yet, hoping it wasn't just a coincidence and the problem will come back, I hate RMAing poo poo.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:44
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Kingnothing posted:Thorough advice Thanks very much, I'll go through this in the clear light of day tomorrow. I have followed and tried many of the steps you recommended or linked, but I'll make sure to double check and exhaust every possible issue before I give up. Suburban Dad posted:flip the switch on the PSU. Lol I even double checked which means on and off just in case I was having an epic brain fart but no, I didn't have it turned off Internet Explorer posted:When I put together my ver first computer when I was pretty young, the CPU was DOA. Took me a while to figure that out. Sucks, but it happens. Yeah I think my first PC build (with help) as a young teen I had to go through the rigmarole of RMAing a motherboard, then the second build a few years later my girlfriend at the time's dad was 'helping' me and drunkenly knocked a capacitor off my GPU. This is my first build since then, 15 years later, so I was hoping it would go smoothly but I'm not unaccustomed to the fuckabout it can sometimes be!
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Dec 11, 2020 23:53
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Butterfly Valley posted:I've tried a couple of different sticks and holding the button for a few seconds and nothing. There's no lights anywhere on the motherboard which is making me paranoid, but also does it need a power signal to turn on in the first place? Maybe wire up the front panel connector? (Power button on your case to mobo) Cant hurt to see if it does anything. Also sanity check the outlet with a vacuum or hair dryer.
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Dec 12, 2020 00:16
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nitsuga posted:The few benchmarks I’ve turned up don’t reveal a huge difference at stock levels and not great OC results without high-end cooling. Good to know, makes me feel like I'm not missing much skipping the overclocking and saving the $70 on the k chip+higher end cooling. I wanna start buying stuff next weekend if GPUs don't go completely extinct so we'll see what wild swings happen between now and then
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Dec 12, 2020 01:12
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Wowporn posted:Good to know, makes me feel like I'm not missing much skipping the overclocking and saving the $70 on the k chip+higher end cooling. I wanna start buying stuff next weekend if GPUs don't go completely extinct so we'll see what wild swings happen between now and then Yeah, I don’t think you will suffer without the K. You can save some money on the motherboard too if you don’t mind slower memory speeds with a B or H chipset. A 10400 might also be worth considering, but I’d see what’s in stock when you’re ready. If you want one of the new GPUs, get in line, otherwise I’d see what pops up in SA-Mart. Can probably get something that’ll get you by for the next few months, years whatever.
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Dec 12, 2020 03:05
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Rhaka posted:Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-I GAMING Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard (£185.27 @ Amazon UK) Just quoting myself here, did I hit any weird b550 lane bandwidth caps with these drives? What if I replace an m2 with a pcie4 at some point? (Regardless, this doesn't affect gpu right)
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Dec 12, 2020 03:29
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I managed to nab a 5800x earlier from a Newegg combo, but am undecided if I should cancel. For one, I want a 5900x (purely a want). The RAM that's part of the bundle is causing me to waver. I've read some conflicting info and could use some direction. The RAM in question - https://www.newegg.com/corsair-32gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820236606?Item=N82E16820236606 Scrolling through, virtually every recommendation has CL-16 RAM vs the CL-18 on this. Between being stuck with this RAM and the 5800x vs 5900x, how strongly should I consider cancelling?
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Dec 12, 2020 04:03
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Raimondo posted:Just to be clear you're talking about https://www.microcenter.com/product/630285/amd-ryzen-5-5600x-vermeer-37ghz-6-core-am4-boxed-processor-with-wraith-stealth-cooler right? I'm in luck that the microcenter by my work has stock. Oh wow! Lucky! Buy a powerball ticket and PM me if you win: I'll be your Kato Kaelin! You'll also need to upgrade from the B450 to a B550 that can update the BIOS without a CPU: Zen 3 needs a bios update to work! But that is an easy fix and well worth it if you managed to grab a 5600X! Have fun! 
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Dec 12, 2020 07:04
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If I want to try putting together my build quickly to see if it boots like some people are saying their b550 boards are doing with Zen 3 without flashback, can I get away with not putting the CPU cooler on if I'm going to turn it immediately off if it actually boots? I do have the stock cooler that came with the 5600x so I could just use that because the installation looks a lot simpler than the Fuma 2 I will use when I know it's properly working, but if I can avoid having to clean the thermal paste off I'd like to. Or what's the bare minimum of poo poo I need to put together where you'd definitely expect to see some life on the motherboard? If I plug my FE 3080 in to the PSU and mobo for example, should I expect to see the logo light up? Edit: I tried shorting the PSU pins and that works! So at least I've removed that from potential issues. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 15:23
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I bought a ryzen 3600, but I’ve discovered it won’t be coming with a cooler. I’m looking for something cheapish that is also available quickly (I’m in the U.K.). RGB is preferable, but not essential. Is there a thread favourite cheap fan cooler?
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Dec 12, 2020 16:10
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Ryzen 3600 should definitely come with a cooler unless you are buying it second hand. The 3600X and XT I think even come with the "Wraith Spire" over the "Wraith Stealth." All are perfectly adequate at cooling the chip, just a bit loud.
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Dec 12, 2020 16:56
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bus hustler posted:Ryzen 3600 should definitely come with a cooler unless you are buying it second hand. The 3600X and XT I think even come with the "Wraith Spire" over the "Wraith Stealth." All are perfectly adequate at cooling the chip, just a bit loud. It’s sold by scan. Who are about as legit as it gets here in Britain https://www.scan.co.uk/products/amd-ryzen-5-3600-am4-zen-2-6-core-12-thread-36ghz-42ghz-turbo-32mb-l3-pcie-40-65w-oem But yeah, upon closer readin, doesn’t mention the wraith, while other listings for out of stock 3600’s do, and upon receipt it Indeed does not include it. I assumed it would, because every time I’ve seen this cpu, it’s included a cooler. Not this time. I don’t mind, I’m happy to buy a cooler. Funso Banjo fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 17:14
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Funso Banjo posted:It’s sold by scan. Who are about as legit as it gets here in Britain It's listed as an OEM version, which would probably be why it comes without a cooler.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:17
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What country are you in? United States What are you using the system for? Gaming and watching movies/browsing What's your budget? I want to stay $2250 or under ideally but it is flexible because I plan on not upgrading for some time if possible. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? None strictly gaming and browsing If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I use an old flatscreen TV atm but plan on purchasing a good monitor but haven't had time to look into what's best. My understanding is the most recent high end gpus and cpus are all unavailable due to scalpers and are near impossible to find for a reasonable prices. I guess my question would be: Is it worth waiting until the demand goes down and they are available regularly or would it be more realistic to just go the next step down? If I did wait how long generally would it take for the newer parts to be easy to get? I haven't put together a pc part picker list yet because most of the parts I was considering are impossible to get a hold of.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:22
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Bofast posted:It's listed as an OEM version, which would probably be why it comes without a cooler. Ah, that’s clearly my fault, I missed it in a rush because 3600’s have been completely out of stock for about a week. The OEM shouldn’t be a problem should it? I’ve fitted coolers before, admittedly a good few years ago, so I’m happy to do so now.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:32
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Virginia Slams posted:What country are you in? United States The next step down is all either sold out or being listed at unreasonable prices. I would just wait. The situation is supposedly improving, though I'm not sure how much it's a by degrees kinda deal. I suspect general availability within a couple months but that's just an rear end-pull. Between covid and crypto you can't compare to prior launches.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:33
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Funso Banjo posted:Ah, that’s clearly my fault, I missed it in a rush because 3600’s have been completely out of stock for about a week. It might not have the same warranty as a retail boxed on but otherwise they're identical.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:34
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Funso Banjo posted:I bought a ryzen 3600, but I’ve discovered it won’t be coming with a cooler. I’m looking for something cheapish that is also available quickly (I’m in the U.K.). RGB is preferable, but not essential. Is there a thread favourite cheap fan cooler? Noctua nh-u12s pricier option, coolermaster 212 evo cheaper option Update: I just went ahead and built the PC anyway with the bare minimum of components (fun discovery: the included wraith cooler negates the closest ram slot because of a big plastic 'amd' logo) and it boots! If I'm on the 'reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key' stage' I'm good to go and install Windows, right?
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Dec 12, 2020 17:35
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Butterfly Valley posted:Noctua nh-u12s pricier option, coolermaster 212 evo cheaper option Yup
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Dec 12, 2020 17:41
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Butterfly Valley posted:Noctua nh-u12s pricier option, coolermaster 212 evo cheaper option You should be good. You can check the BIOS rev in the BIOS and compare to what you’re trying to flash with. Probably already had it which is why you weren’t getting lights. I’ll have to remember this if someone else has this problem. It’s stupid that the board would give absolutely no feedback if the BIOS is already updated.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:41
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Butterfly Valley posted:Noctua nh-u12s pricier option, coolermaster 212 evo cheaper option What ended up being the issue?
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Dec 12, 2020 17:45
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Suburban Dad posted:What ended up being the issue? As Kingnothing said, zero feedback when I was trying to flash the bios so I was convinced the board was dead.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:48
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That's just loving odd. You'd think it would boot up and have some sort of signal that it was attempting to do something. Like, it boots and reads the USB and compares it against the current BIOS without so much as a light on? Doesn't seem right to me. Glad you got it working though! Congrats on the new build.
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Dec 12, 2020 17:56
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Suburban Dad posted:flip the switch on the PSU. I’m sure others might have read this as a smart-assed response, but this was literally me when I was trying to flash my bios and nothing was happening. Because I didn’t actually turn on the PSU
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Dec 12, 2020 18:12
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It's a totally worthy suggestion but I had checked literally everything it was possible to check, down to trying 3 different usb sticks and renaming the file every which way. I can look back on it as a fun roadblock I guess? Edit: I booted into the bios and it had revision F3, which doesn't have 5600x support, but I've been able to update it to the latest just fine from within the bios. Is this unusual? Would most mobos just refuse to boot at all with a new processor and old firmware? Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 18:15
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vanilla slimfast posted:I’m sure others might have read this as a smart-assed response, but this was literally me when I was trying to flash my bios and nothing was happening. Because I didn’t actually turn on the PSU It's a natural reaction to most of my posts. I do dumb poo poo like that all the time so figured it was worth mentioning. Glad you got it sorted and that's very weird no lights turned on or anything.
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Dec 12, 2020 18:40
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Butterfly Valley posted:Edit: I booted into the bios and it had revision F3, which doesn't have 5600x support, but I've been able to update it to the latest just fine from within the bios. Is this unusual? Would most mobos just refuse to boot at all with a new processor and old firmware? I don't know the answer to your question but it's almost sounding like maybe the update BIOS button was broken or something along those lines? Really odd.
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Dec 12, 2020 18:53
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Butterfly Valley posted:It's a totally worthy suggestion but I had checked literally everything it was possible to check, down to trying 3 different usb sticks and renaming the file every which way. I can look back on it as a fun roadblock I guess? It's very odd you were able to get to BIOS with that rev and a 5600
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Dec 12, 2020 19:56
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Butterfly Valley posted:Noctua nh-u12s pricier option, coolermaster 212 evo cheaper option Try turning the cooler 180 degrees. Sounds like you’re booting now, so yeah I’d go ahead and install Windows.
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Dec 12, 2020 20:27
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I honestly don't know much about building a PC, despite having obsessively gamed on them for decades. My old PC was something my stepdad (an enthusiast who knew what he was doing) built in the early-mid 2000s, and I just kept throwing in a new video card and more RAM into it every 5 or so years. A few years ago it finally crapped out and I replaced it with an Alienware Alpha. I didn't realize at the time of purchase that you can't upgrade the video card in those, only the RAM and CPU, so it's finally time for me to build one of my own. Even after reading the OP, I'm a little intimidated by the process of actually picking parts, but I went to the build guide on PC part picker and selected one I thought was pretty decent. Should I swap anything out before I buy, or is this pretty good to go? Here's the info requested at the top of the OP: I live in the USA. I'm going to use this system primarily for gaming. My budget is $1000-$1300. I am not using this for professional work, other than the basic Google Suite/MS Office etc. I'll primarily be using a TV that this will be hooked up to, it's resolution is 1600*900, as well as a monitor I sometimes use that's at 1920*1080, also 60hz. My priorities for this are 1080p/60FPS for modern games, possibly higher in the future if I decide to upgrade my monitor later on down the road. I'm also considering a VR system later on too, and would like that to be open to me if I decide to go that route, although if this machine isn't up to par for that, it's not a dealbreaker as I have a PSVR currently. The link to the preset build is below, please let me know if there's anything I should swap out or be aware of before purchasing. Thanks in advance for any advice! https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/XrQzK8/great-intel-gaming-build edit: I also use a dual-shock 4 primarily for couch-gaming, how will I know if this will accept bluetooth connectivity out of the box or if I'll have to get a dongle? SoR Blaze fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 12, 2020 |
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Dec 12, 2020 21:17
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Recently built a PC with two M.2 drives. When I booted up today only the main one was detected by the BIOS. I rebooted (twice) to see if it would come back, didn't work. I took the drive out and did the ol' Nintendo trick of blowing on the port, which fixed it. Multiple reboots and the drive is detected fine. The PC doesn't move around, so no chance of a physical bump unseating something. Is this indicative of some failure somewhere, or did reseating it likely fix it?
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Dec 12, 2020 22:28
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pik_d posted:Recently built a PC with two M.2 drives. When I booted up today only the main one was detected by the BIOS. I rebooted (twice) to see if it would come back, didn't work. I took the drive out and did the ol' Nintendo trick of blowing on the port, which fixed it. Multiple reboots and the drive is detected fine. It's weird but I'd just note it as a potential issue and keep an eye on it. Sometimes electronics are weird. I had my PC just turn off the other day after something like 27 days of uptime. I suspect a software issue rather than hardware, but if it is hardware it's likely the power supply or something on the motherboard. Since I can't isolate it and it booted back up normally I've just been keeping an eye on it and so far it's been fine for three days. If it happens again I'll try another power supply next. Intermittent issues like that are difficult to diagnose if you can't make them happen at will and the event logs don't show anything.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:44
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SoR Blaze posted:I honestly don't know much about building a PC, despite having obsessively gamed on them for decades. My old PC was something my stepdad (an enthusiast who knew what he was doing) built in the early-mid 2000s, and I just kept throwing in a new video card and more RAM into it every 5 or so years. A few years ago it finally crapped out and I replaced it with an Alienware Alpha. I didn't realize at the time of purchase that you can't upgrade the video card in those, only the RAM and CPU, so it's finally time for me to build one of my own. Even after reading the OP, I'm a little intimidated by the process of actually picking parts, but I went to the build guide on PC part picker and selected one I thought was pretty decent. Should I swap anything out before I buy, or is this pretty good to go? Here's the info requested at the top of the OP: PCPartPicker uses some bad filtering with these builds IMO, so I changed a few things both for performance and personal preference (you should not pay $450 for a 5700XT). Basically, changed out the SATA drive for an M.2 drive, picked an 80+ Gold PSU, ditched the OLOY memory, and found a motherboard that has Bluetooth and Wi-Fi built-in so you don't have to buy an expansion card or dongle to use your PS4 controller. If you just want to build something now, I think this'd be more than capable of what you're hoping for. The stock issues plaguing GPUs and AMD CPUs might get better in a few months though, of course things might just get worse too. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-10400 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($168.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.14 CFM CPU Cooler ($31.30 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B460M DS3H AC Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($93.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Lenovo) Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB GAMING Twin Fan Video Card ($266.99 @ Staples) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Amazon) Total: $863.22 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-12 17:53 EST-0500
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Dec 13, 2020 00:02
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pik_d posted:Recently built a PC with two M.2 drives. When I booted up today only the main one was detected by the BIOS. I rebooted (twice) to see if it would come back, didn't work. I took the drive out and did the ol' Nintendo trick of blowing on the port, which fixed it. Multiple reboots and the drive is detected fine. Sometimes things just need a reseat. Think of it as doing an advanced reboot. Once is a weird quirk. Twice+ in a short period of time is a problem.
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Dec 13, 2020 00:10
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($207.65 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-2400 CL11 Memory ($119.00 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($95.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4 GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card Case: Xion XON 310 MicroATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Cooler Master V Gold V2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Total: $582.62 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-12 18:33 EST-0500 So this is my current build, I'm wondering if I should be focussing on upgrading the GPU or the CPU. Is this CPU too old for modern gaming? How much do threads matter for gaming (4c/4t compared to 4c/8t) Is it even possible to get a graphics card right now? I'd love some help
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Dec 13, 2020 00:36
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nitsuga posted:Try turning the cooler 180 degrees. Sounds like you’re booting now, so yeah I’d go ahead and install Windows. It was blocked by the giant metal vrm heatsink on this mobo. The stock cooler is coming off tomorrow anyway when I replace it with the Fuma 2 and actually build everything into the case instead of the frankenstein arrangement over my kitchen table I'm currently rocking. Anyway, first post from my new PC! Thanks for the moral support thread.
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Dec 13, 2020 00:45
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4c/4 threads made modern games stutter and unplayable for me recently with an old 2500k. I'd focus on a cpu/mobo upgrade and then a gpu when you can afford it. Edit: if you have a 2nd monitor, bring up task manager and watch your cpu use in games. Performance would tank and cpu would hit 100% for me. Then go back to like 70+fps again when it stopped back down. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 00:45
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One thing I didn't think of before I ordered my parts, what's the state of factory applied thermal paste these days? I believe the cooler I ordered comes with some, but if it's worth spending a few bucks to put something better on I'm all for it. The cooler is this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087VM7HT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_UDv1FbDJ89TTA
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Dec 13, 2020 00:54
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