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Spanish Manlove posted:Right but there's a difference in perception between a "war is hell" distraught soldier or demon on a pile of skulls as compared to a soldier standing in front of an Abu Ghraib pile of prisoners. It's not really virtue signaling to say that a model set of swarthy dudes in robes and a chained up naked women is a bad thing, that poo poo has more red flags than a semaphore training class. Come on dude. Bucnasti posted:What you have to understand is that this is a hobby that often attracts people who do fetishize these things, and we all work hard to keep call out those people and keep them away. I didn't think you were virtue signalling, I just didn't understand it was so offensive. I can only apologise again. I am totally embarassed and am going to leave the thread to set up my S&M dungeon so that you can talk about Nurglings in peace.
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Dec 11, 2020 21:58
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Chatrapati posted:I didn't think you were virtue signalling, I just didn't understand it was so offensive. I can only apologise again. I am totally embarassed and am going to leave the thread to set up my S&M dungeon so that you can talk about Nurglings in peace. Seriously if you don't realize how that set is racist as gently caress you need to go get yourself even a tiny bit of education.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:04
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Chatrapati posted:I didn't think you were virtue signalling, I just didn't understand it was so offensive. I can only apologise again. I am totally embarassed and am going to leave the thread to set up my S&M dungeon so that you can talk about Nurglings in peace. Errors are only really errors if you repeat them. I hope you find a good gift for your friend.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:04
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Kingdom Death has a gigantic line of freakishly proportioned anime pinup miniatures laser-targeting the horny tabletop gamer demographic so I guess if you are really dead set on buying something for someone who is into that stuff then that's probably better than an Orientalist sex slavery diorama. But yeah I think overall you're better off just buying your friend something more innocuous. Edit: I know it probably seems like people are overreacting to you but this hobby is full of fuckin shitheads who absolutely *do* idolize actual Nazis, etc. A big historical miniature manufacturer just got a bunch of pushback for doing a modeling guide on how to create and paint concentration camp scenes, multiple companies have just been flagrantly adding huge swastikas and even white supremacist symbols to their products, on and on. This is compounded by a lot of these people being smart enough to realize that their gross views aren't socially acceptable and trying to constantly hide behind "I'm just depicting history! (but only ever the history of Waffen SS death squads for some reason!)" Gross attitudes towards women are also very common and a lot of people try to stamp that poo poo out when they see it because it makes for a hobby that is extremely offputting and actively hostile to a huge swath of the population and lets all sorts of awful ideas fester. Grizzled Patriarch fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Dec 11, 2020 |
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Dec 11, 2020 22:05
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Toebone posted:This was the set I started with, I'd recommend it. Vallejo model air metallics are amazing, though they don't have a great dull steel. I use Vallejo mecha air steel and dark steel for that. Model air metallics are universally good through a brush or airbrush, but too thin to drybrush. The model color and game color metals are a bit sporadic. Some are great(hammered copper), but a lot aren't. Game air metallics have all been useless to brush on for me but fine through an airbrush. Many of the citadel ones are pretty great too, as has been said before.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:11
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Bucnasti posted:What you have to understand is that this is a hobby that often attracts people who do fetishize these things, and we all work hard to keep call out those people and keep them away. Really driving the point home for christmas.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:17
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tangy yet delightful posted:Here's my 3 year old's paint jobs so far on minis, enjoyed seeing ya'lls so I figured I'd post my own. You know, those are all pretty good color schemes for army men.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:32
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I'd definitely be worried about what kind of image I'm projecting if someone got me a sex slavery mini vignette for Christmas. Orientalism/Harem certainly was an art genre for awhile, but not really one I'd want to display in my living room. There's an absolute shitton of pinup minis out there that aren't nearly that fraught.
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Dec 11, 2020 23:03
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Anyway that was a weird derail, here's a cool human I painted for Blood Bowl
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Dec 11, 2020 23:07
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Anyway that was a weird derail, here's a cool human I painted for Blood Bowl Hell yeah. What's the gold color and how'd you do the base?
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Dec 11, 2020 23:40
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I've been using Army Painter Gunmetal instead of GW Leadbelcher and I really like it. Has a lot of the same characteristics but is maybe just a little bit brighter. Black Templar contrast over Gunmetal has become my standard for painting guns.
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Dec 11, 2020 23:56
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I find most metallics too bright. My go-to is Scale75 black metal or VMA black metal, highlighted with GW runefang steel or VMA steel.Funzo posted:Black Templar contrast over Gunmetal has become my standard for painting guns.
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Dec 12, 2020 00:04
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Funzo posted:I've been using Army Painter Gunmetal instead of GW Leadbelcher and I really like it. Has a lot of the same characteristics but is maybe just a little bit brighter. Black Templar contrast over Gunmetal has become my standard for painting guns. i gotta try this
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Dec 12, 2020 00:09
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 Another muzzle flash termie done
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Dec 12, 2020 00:16
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Geisladisk posted:
Think this is your best one yet, that soft blue light from the sword really sets it off.
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Dec 12, 2020 00:45
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Spanish Manlove posted:Hell yeah. What's the gold color and how'd you do the base? Retributor Armor with an Agrax Earthshade wash. It's my favorite gold metallic combo because it pops but it's not garish The base is just GW Astrogranite texture paint dry brushed with Screaming Skull
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Dec 12, 2020 03:17
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Thoogsby posted:My friend made me the coolest nurglings of all time with my spare plaugebearer poo poo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ha4NQF1vHik Those are some rad nurglings, but your friend was rather hard to hear at some points with the music drowning him out a bit
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Dec 12, 2020 10:24
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A friend gave me the figurine that was bundled with Warhammer Online years ago, which is great because I had sold mine before I got into the hobby ; and also because it's my first metal mini. I really like it. Here's where I'm at - I tend to do all my base colors first, then the layering/highlights/weathering. I think I'm okay with the dark blue/metal/red combo.   But I have two questions: 1) Should I make the cloak more brown (maybe start over)? I'm not sure because as it stands it's basically the only area of the mini with grey/white, whereas there's already quite a bit of brown from all the leather and straps. Would it make the mini more coherent to stick to similar colors? 2) I don't know what to do with the Goblin on his shoulder. Should I try to keep the same color range, or go for something different (so as to draw the eye to there) ? Or maybe the same blue/red base, just brighter? Should I make his skin lighter than the Ork's?
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Dec 12, 2020 16:16
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Furism posted:A friend gave me the figurine that was bundled with Warhammer Online years ago, which is great because I had sold mine before I got into the hobby ; and also because it's my first metal mini. I really like it. 1. I think making the cloak brown would make the figure too muddy. You have a lot of bold contrasting colors, and I think the white works for that. Perhaps push the contrast on the cloak more, brighter highlights and darker shadows? Or maybe some black tiger stripes. 2. I would keep base red/blue the same, maybe lighter skin color.
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Dec 12, 2020 16:23
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I agree, the lighter grey of the cloak looks good against the rest of the colors. I think similar clothes/armor but a lighter skintone on the goblin is the way to go. The muzzle flash illuminated guys look fantastic, that's a super cool effect.
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Dec 12, 2020 18:04
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I forgot to shake up some Vallejo game color black before loading it into my airbrush, and I’ve got about ten minis that are either really glossy or really matte. I actually don’t mind the glossy ones, but the matte bothers me. I was using pretty thin layers. Do you think I can just fix it with one more layer of actually mixed paint?
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Dec 12, 2020 19:18
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Or a layer of gloss varnish.
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Dec 12, 2020 19:37
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Does anyone else dislike nuln oil? It’s so thin. The dark wash from AP is much more usable, but black Templar with some contrast medium is the best of both worlds imo.
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Dec 12, 2020 20:58
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If Nuln Oil was any thicker you'd have way more My Grimdark Chapter Scheme videos
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Dec 12, 2020 21:04
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 ambien shopping lead me to this point i guess i have a nice paintbrush now
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Dec 12, 2020 22:02
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I've had one for years and still use it. It's a great brush.
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Dec 12, 2020 22:03
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Bucnasti posted:I use badgers regdab, or hoppes gun oil, but I don’t see why any light machine oil like 3 in 1 wouldn’t work fine. Would something like WD40 work? I have no idea if there are different kinds of oil/lubes  Dienes posted:1. I think making the cloak brown would make the figure too muddy. You have a lot of bold contrasting colors, and I think the white works for that. Perhaps push the contrast on the cloak more, brighter highlights and darker shadows? Or maybe some black tiger stripes. nostrata posted:I agree, the lighter grey of the cloak looks good against the rest of the colors. I think similar clothes/armor but a lighter skintone on the goblin is the way to go. Yes I haven't put any highlights yet so there will be better contrast! For now I just lay some wash on the cloak. I'll dry brush it to improve the effect. I think black tiger stripes would be difficult because of all the hair threads on the cloak - when I look at reference picture for white tiger with black stripes, it's always very short fur. I love the idea but I think it might look weird.
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Dec 13, 2020 11:52
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Furism posted:Would something like WD40 work? I have no idea if there are different kinds of oil/lubes NO! WD-40 is not really a lubricant, or at best you could say lubricating is only a small part of it's function. It's a water-displacement fluid, primarily for degreasing, rust removal, and as a solvent. The fact that it sort of lubricates is a by-product of it's main functions, and if the fluid is left in confined crevices, with eventually gum up and be worse than if you hadn't used it in the first place.
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Dec 13, 2020 11:58
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Furism posted:Would something like WD40 work? I have no idea if there are different kinds of oil/lubes 3 in 1 Oil is a brand name for a general purpose lubricating oil; it's dirt cheap and you can buy it pretty much anywhere that sells tools/household stuff. Grab a bottle, it's useful for so many things.
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Dec 13, 2020 13:30
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:NO! Toebone posted:3 in 1 Oil is a brand name for a general purpose lubricating oil; it's dirt cheap and you can buy it pretty much anywhere that sells tools/household stuff. Grab a bottle, it's useful for so many things. Oh wow, thanks! I've been using WD40 to lubricate the hinges on all of my doors for years. Not at all the intended use apparently! I don't think "3 in 1" exists where I live, it's probably a different brand. But now I know what I'm looking for it should be no problem. Thanks Goons!
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Dec 13, 2020 16:55
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Furism posted:Oh wow, thanks! I've been using WD40 to lubricate the hinges on all of my doors for years. Not at all the intended use apparently! When it's stuck use WD40, when it squeals use machine oil.
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Dec 13, 2020 17:49
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XPost from the Oath thread. Finally finished off my Oathsworn Dwarfs (not do dig out the Halflings and random adventurers I have from them...)Zark the Damned posted:Oath Completed!
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Dec 13, 2020 19:12
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Are there any pigment fixative techniques / products that don't just completely obliterate the effect of pigments? I want to use some on minis meant for gaming but any form of varnish just wets it down so much that it looks like drybrushed paint. Do I just have to do it after the varnish is dry and hope it doesn't eventually all fall off?
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Dec 14, 2020 05:39
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Are there any pigment fixative techniques / products that don't just completely obliterate the effect of pigments? I want to use some on minis meant for gaming but any form of varnish just wets it down so much that it looks like drybrushed paint. Do I just have to do it after the varnish is dry and hope it doesn't eventually all fall off? So the answer is "not what you'd want", sorry. However, pigment affixer sprayed lightly (literally just enough to cover) over an area, given 3 minutes to set a bit then drybrush to half what you'd want, wait three more minutes then dry brush pigments against is the best I've found. It's better than the static cling you'd get natively with pigments alone, but doesn't look exactly the same. But you know, if you don't want stuff coming off like crazy on your fingers with handling (but tbf it will a little) it's the best middle ground I've found. Pigments suck and aren't made for playing pieces, they're better suited for dioramas IMHO.
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Dec 14, 2020 06:21
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Just wanted to say thanks to the thread for the paint advice. I've already finished some dwaves; they're not perfect, but I'm really pleased with them.
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Dec 14, 2020 11:42
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Funzo posted:I've been using Army Painter Gunmetal instead of GW Leadbelcher and I really like it. Has a lot of the same characteristics but is maybe just a little bit brighter. Black Templar contrast over Gunmetal has become my standard for painting guns. Yeah, when I first started painting I got an Army Painter starter set with plate mail in it, and really liked it. As I've been painting I've mostly been buying GW paints, and I really like how the AP platemail covers better than leadblecher or like retributor armor, so I actually bought the AP metallic paint set from my FLGS a couple weeks ago so I have their regular metallic paint line. I also have their whole wash line as well. I prefer GW paints, especially base paints, over the non-metallic AP stuff though. Seems the coverage or pigment is kind of meh.
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Dec 14, 2020 16:15
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Harvey Mantaco posted:So the answer is "not what you'd want", sorry. I'll give that a try, thanks! Better than nothing I suppose. I really love the dusty look they give to bases and nothing else comes close to replicating it, but yeah might just have to accept that it's not gonna work for gaming pieces.
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Dec 14, 2020 16:53
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I think the pigment fixer from Secret Weapon (there are probably other brands selling the same thing) does a good job of maintaining the dusty look. Any sort of fixer is going to alter the look a bit but I find that stuff to give a much better result than varnish.
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Dec 14, 2020 17:24
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Felime posted:Vallejo model air metallics are amazing, though they don't have a great dull steel. I use Vallejo mecha air steel and dark steel for that. Model air metallics are universally good through a brush or airbrush, but too thin to drybrush. The model color and game color metals are a bit sporadic. Some are great(hammered copper), but a lot aren't. Game air metallics have all been useless to brush on for me but fine through an airbrush. Welp. I was lamenting to a friend that Vallejo metal color was all sold out because of supply issues, and they thought they spotted some at their local game store and grabbed them for me and they all turned out to be Vallejo air metallics. I was wondering how good they were compared to metal color. Problem is I don't have an airbrush. That being said I have a big bottle of proper Metal color aluminum and this should push me to experiment with mixing my own gold/copper/whatever.
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Dec 14, 2020 17:45
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I assume the OP post on airbrushes is mostly up to date? Doesn't seem like a field that has gone through massive upheavals during the past few years, unless some new recommended stuff has popped up recently? Mostly thinking about getting in to airbrushing mostly for the sake of winter priming, so I'm looking at the entry level options.
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Dec 14, 2020 18:03
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