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i misread that and thought the OP was trying to opt out of the call being recorded
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Dec 15, 2020 16:48
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eddiewalker posted:A customer going out of their way to say “I’m recording you!” is aggressive and confrontational, no matter how justified you are in documenting the interaction. ehhhh call centres are supposedly trained for all this and my time spent in them years ago would've had me say "yeah that's fine, what can I help you with?" Like go ahead, I know my end is recording anyway and possibly has a supervisor listening in so I'm not going to say anything dumb and you'll likely get it escalated after a minute or two anyway. First line call centre staff can only redirect stuff like that anyway, totally not my problem so I'll be happy to hand it on.
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Dec 15, 2020 18:42
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If op wants to record the call, whether or not it's a one-party consent state, whether or not there's a recording saying "this call may be recorded" ... just social engineer their consent. "Hey I know a lot of places record calls for "quality assurance" or whatever, I bet they do that here too amirite? And you probably don't have the ability to turn it off yourself? (Wait for the "no" reply) Ah well, sigh, I guess doing this job you basically accept being recorded during a call. Big brother eh?" (I mean, say it more smoothly than that)
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Dec 15, 2020 19:06
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although its possible that mazda corp is going to try to screw you on this one it's not very likely
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Dec 15, 2020 19:26
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:although its possible that mazda corp is going to try to screw you on this one it's not very likely wow, how did you guess? "Please email me, I can't respond to calls during the work day." "okay, let me verify the email" leaves a voicemail and phone-only contact info anyway so one of the two dealerships lied to corporate and faked a service attempt that they claimed they "could not duplicate" for, on the day I took it in and they said they had no technicians available the other "can only do december 29" (so they lied to me instead) which puts me at two weeks without my own car and no loaner until then because it won't have been "deemed unsafe" So yeah, "sucks to have bought our car" is the verdict. We'll see how calling back goes after work. to the folks saying recording a call is aggressive: this is why you record the drat calls, or PREFERABLY get emails where all records can be tracked easily.
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Dec 15, 2020 20:52
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Thinking it's perfectly natural for a corporation to force you into a recorded call but it's "aggressive" for a consumer calling to record 
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Dec 15, 2020 21:06
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Krakkles posted:Thinking it's perfectly natural for a corporation to force you into a recorded call but it's "aggressive" for a consumer calling to record In the same way that they can send you a reminder to pay something and add x amount as a "reminder fee", but if they overcharge/don't pay/mess up, you can't do poo poo. Always nice to be reminded how hosed you are when dealing with corporations.
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Dec 15, 2020 21:45
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tactlessbastard posted:So today while pulling into work my poor wrecked Civic started making a chuffing noise and the power steering went out and the battery light came on. I figured I had thrown the accessory belt so I parked it. First chance I got I came back out and saw the following. So the mechanic tells me that the crank bolt broke. He also tells me that since it's a hardened bolt, it can't be removed. He went on to say I needed a new motor because of it  I asked him about welding the crank pulley back on and he said he's heard of that but his shop won't do it.
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Dec 15, 2020 23:33
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tactlessbastard posted:So the mechanic tells me that the crank bolt broke. I'm not sure if the fact that it's hardened means it can't be retrieved by welding something (i.e. another bolt, not the pulley) to the end of it, but that's what I'd be looking at.
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Dec 15, 2020 23:45
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tactlessbastard posted:He also tells me that since it's a hardened bolt, it can't be removed. Find a much better mechanic.
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Dec 15, 2020 23:51
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, you definitely don't want to weld the pulley back on as a solution. I can't imagine what trying to get that balanced would look like. All I want is to drive it away to a junkyard of my choosing under its own power E: which is dumb but I've been driving this thing for 15 years and I have an emotional attachment to it tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 15, 2020 23:55
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Better and/or willing mechanic. If the car is about to be junked anyway, I'm sure they took a look at the car and decided that you were not likely going to want to pay for a job with an unknown amount of labor. This is also the type of labor a high-speed-part-swapper shop hates to do. A broken crank bolt is absolutely fixable, but well outside of anyone's ability to estimate how long it will take. Could get really loving lucky where there's no corrosion between the bolt threads and the crank threads, and the broken surface is exposed enough to make it easy to force the bolt out with a chisel or a punch by just hammering it around until you can grab it with some vise grips. Or you could get really loving unlucky and part of the reason it broke was the last person to do a timing belt absolutely ruined everything, crossthreaded the gently caress out of it and maybe filled the voids with JBweld for fun. So the only way that bolt is coming out is by drilling the hole clean through and either threading for the next size up or installing a thread repair like a helicoil / timesert.
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Dec 16, 2020 00:13
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Worth adding to that, Honda crank bolts are famously difficult, so while yeah, it's impossible to tell over the internet, I'd be pretty shocked if it was a hammer chisel/punch kind of situation. It's absolutely fixable but whether or not it's worth it comes down to how much time or money you're willing to spend on it. For me, right now? I just bought a welder, I'd totally try to fix it just to see if I could. It probably shouldn't be $$$Texas to fix - a halfway competent mechanic should definitely be able to sort it and while I'd expect some premium over replacing it if it hadn't broken, I wouldn't expect 2x or anything like that.
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Dec 16, 2020 00:18
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Krakkles posted:Worth adding to that, Honda crank bolts are famously difficult, so while yeah, it's impossible to tell over the internet, I'd be pretty shocked if it was a hammer chisel/punch kind of situation. It's absolutely fixable but whether or not it's worth it comes down to how much time or money you're willing to spend on it. For me, right now? I just bought a welder, I'd totally try to fix it just to see if I could. It probably shouldn't be $$$Texas to fix - a halfway competent mechanic should definitely be able to sort it and while I'd expect some premium over replacing it if it hadn't broken, I wouldn't expect 2x or anything like that. I wrecked it back in February and have just been limping her along until I got settled in after moving for work. When the NC gets here I was going to just throw her on FB for $500. I guess now I'll be lucky enough to get enough to cover the tows. I'm not in any position to be doing any welding or drilling myself.
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Dec 16, 2020 00:24
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So my battery cable has decided to do this... the cable looks a little swollen behind that point as well. I have some tools and the basic understanding of how to strip and work with wires but is it likely that the majority of this cable is just hosed?
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Dec 16, 2020 00:42
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tactlessbastard posted:I wrecked it back in February and have just been limping her along until I got settled in after moving for work. When the NC gets here I was going to just throw her on FB for $500. Oh, this is a completely different story and a different presentation to your mechanic. So maybe I was a bit harsh on that - I would have told you the same thing if you brought me a shitter in this shape. Well no, not the same thing. I wouldn't have suggested a motor I would have suggested a rollback on its way to the junkyard. gently caress it, you have a Miata incoming.
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Dec 16, 2020 00:47
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RudeCat posted:So my battery cable has decided to do this... Nah, I'd bet that the corrosion starts there and continues for some distance under the insulation but then stops. In theory you could cut it back and crimp on a new connector and be good to go. However, given that most car battery cables are exactly long enough to reach the battery terminals and nothing more, I'd say you should just replace it.
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Dec 16, 2020 00:47
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RudeCat posted:So my battery cable has decided to do this... Yes, the corrosion is under the insulation a far way down most likely. What car is this, etc? Chances are good you can buy a new cable and bolt off/bolt the new on on and be on your merry way as a real fix, not some temporary crap. Yes, it will cost a bit, but tow trucks cost more.
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Dec 16, 2020 00:48
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Motronic posted:Yes, the corrosion is under the insulation a far way down most likely. It's a 2006 Vue and the cable is bound to several others as it winds through the car. I don't really have an easy way of getting under the car though, so if I have to dig around underneath it's going to be out of my league.
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Dec 16, 2020 01:05
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RudeCat posted:It's a 2006 Vue and the cable is bound to several others as it winds through the car. I don't really have an easy way of getting under the car though, so if I have to dig around underneath it's going to be out of my league. Looked up the part number and it's one connector to the battery and two to other places. To hell with where it's bound up in the harness. Abandon the old one in place. Install a new one......cut of the old one when it's in your way, zip tie the new one to whatever is convenient. It's a decade and a half year old economy car. It totally doesn't have to be fixed to concours standards.
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Dec 16, 2020 01:19
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Alright, I'm convinced! Thanks!
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Dec 16, 2020 01:22
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SkyeAuroline posted:wow, how did you guess? i recommend escalating that further
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Dec 16, 2020 03:48
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:i recommend escalating that further Short of "pull the technician off his scheduled PTO and force him to work on my vehicle", there's not exactly a ton of escalating to do from here unless they reject setting up the appointment. Also, dug out my receipts - despite "checking for software updates" being a routine thing that's been done at every oil change so far, they filed it under "driveability" instead of the normal listing so they could write it off as "we tested and didn't find anything" despite the vehicle never leaving their building.
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Dec 16, 2020 04:15
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SkyeAuroline posted:Short of "pull the technician off his scheduled PTO and force him to work on my vehicle", there's not exactly a ton of escalating to do from here unless they reject setting up the appointment. You seriously think this? You're approaching a lemon law claim in most states. The US arm of your car's manufacturer will likely be interested in making this better if you are just able to ask for things you are reasonably entitled to if not outright owed.
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Dec 16, 2020 04:21
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Motronic posted:You seriously think this? Not in my state, unfortunately, on the lemon law front - bought just across the state line and state law only covers cars purchased within state borders. e: honestly I don't even know what falls in the latter category. I'd just like my car to work. I'm not a car person, I've lived my life trying to need a car as little as possible and it'd be the holy grail for me to never have to own one again. Runner up is having to own one but just having it bloody work without an issue. I'm not as aware on this whole thing as y'all are, that's why I'm here. SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 04:28
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Teaching you how to advocate for yourself is not something I'm able or prepared to do. But it is something you need to learn how to do. For more reasons than just car problems.
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Dec 16, 2020 04:39
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Level one pro-tip: Stop thinking of reasons they won’t do what you need. That’s their problem.
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Dec 16, 2020 04:43
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Motronic posted:Teaching you how to advocate for yourself is not something I'm able or prepared to do. But it is something you need to learn how to do. For more reasons than just car problems. I get where you're trying to go with this. You evidently have a lot more experience dealing with dealers on this level than me. What "things you are reasonably entitled to if not outright owed" are you expecting me to get out of escalating further from here? Again, short of any bullshit from the dealer's service department in the morning, they've already pushed me two weeks up on the schedule well into where they had already closed service appointments at, cutting the wait time in half at minimum. That's where we're currently at. I'm not sure where you expect that I'm going to claw to from here. I'm not trying to fight with you, I'm genuinely trying to understand your suggestions (and others'). I've worked in customer service but not in this area of things, and my previous cars have been used cars maintained at home without involving a dealer. This is not my field of expertise. I get the "self advocacy" aspect... but we're already there. Not advocating for myself would be rolling over and driving a broken car until it kills me on a highway. I am trying to get them to get their poo poo together.
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Dec 16, 2020 06:54
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SkyeAuroline posted:I get where you're trying to go with this. You evidently have a lot more experience dealing with dealers on this level than me. What "things you are reasonably entitled to if not outright owed" are you expecting me to get out of escalating further from here? Again, short of any bullshit from the dealer's service department in the morning, they've already pushed me two weeks up on the schedule well into where they had already closed service appointments at, cutting the wait time in half at minimum. That's where we're currently at. I'm not sure where you expect that I'm going to claw to from here. I've got a Civic for sale you might be interested in
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Dec 16, 2020 07:24
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You're not responsible for their staffing difficulties (on the off chance that isn't a complete fabrication to get you to gently caress off, anyway) Nobody but a lawyer in the appropriate state(s) can tell you exactly what law applies and what it entitles you to. Ye Olde Legal Questions Thread may be able to give you some amount of information, but it'll probably cost you a couple hundred bucks to have a smart person who knows the law care a lot about your situation for an hour and have much more concrete answers for you at the end of it. Alternatively, deploying an EECB costs you nothing but your own time. (Here in 2020, just trashing them on twitter might get the same level of immediate attention, or not.) This tactic can generally be relied upon to make several important people personally aware of your problems with their minions, increasing the odds one of them cares enough to help you. Possible results range from "nothing" to "corporate reigning fire on the dealer for letting you become their problem" and if it goes nowhere, you're out nothing (and already have a handy written summary of the situation for your lawyer to read to save you time later) Javid fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 08:59
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There's a reason I said to go after Mazda corp on twitter. gently caress the dealer, the dealer's obviously bad. you need to understand the difference between the dealer and Mazda corporate (MNAO). the dealer is an independent business and Mazda can't really force them to do anything at all. however, they can provide you with some kind of remediation for your problem until the dealer looks at your car. Fundamentally you have a non-driveable car, under the original manufacturer warranty, and Mazda won't do poo poo about it until the dealer will look at it on the 29th. That's unacceptable. At minimum MNAO should be providing you with reimbursement for a rental car for every day it takes for the dealer to look at your car. loving learn to advocate for yourself but since I'm dumber than Motronic is I'll lay out what I would do: 0) get your poo poo together in terms of the case. it doesn't help that you just loving ignored a serious problem with the powertrain of your car for months, but whatever stupid poo poo in the past can't be helped. you want a timeline from when you first noticed the original problem until present, with documented dealer visits, results from those visits, etc as well as any changes in the nature of the problem. 1) you think the just-graduated-from-college trainee dude at MNAO's call center has any loving power at all? Call back, get their supervisor, and stress that this is not acceptable and you need your car. Ask them how they plan to solve this problem for you. 2) drag the dealer on yelp / google reviews etc 3) if MNAO doesn't do anything, start tweeting at them 4) reach out to a few car blogs with your horrifying story. maybe they want to run as part of a "bad performance by dealer svc departments in covid times" story or some poo poo. bonus points if you are a Front Line Heroe. 5) lawyer or threaten lawyer. you could also take the car to an independent mechanic for a diagnosis, but this will cost you money out of pocket. also: next time the dealer says "could not replicate" you go back until it gets replicated if it's a potentially serious problem (eg CAR NOT DRIVE RIGHT is serious, THERE IS A RATTLE not serious)
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Dec 16, 2020 13:46
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SkyeAuroline posted:What "things you are reasonably entitled to if not outright owed" are you expecting me to get out of escalating further from here? At a minimum - a loaner car or rental car reimbursement. That's a bare minimum. There's more. Like better service. But once you have a loaner or rental car the dealership or corporate is out money for EVERY DAY they haven't solved your problem. This becomes a financial lever that you don't need to do anything at all to exercise, and you've got a working goddamn car to use.
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Dec 16, 2020 16:31
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My son drives a 2010 Charger that has a very slight clunk in the front end. I have looked and could not see anything obvious. I had it in the shop the other day for something else and asked my mechanic about it. He says that the front tension strut bushings are torn and suggests I should be able to change them myself. This would be item number 21 in the picture below. Is this as simple as removing the bolt, lowering the wheel assembly and slipping the old bushing out/sliding the new one in? I would ask the mechanic but he's off until the new year. 
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Dec 17, 2020 15:31
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Anyone have any horror stories about 2013+ SHOs? Just saw this guy pop up - https://www.infinitiwilliamsville.com/inventory/used-2013-ford-taurus-sho-awd-4d-sedan-1fahp2ktxdg228995 Price might be a little high, but I like it. edit: sold. drat slow dealerships. Cage fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 16:33
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Cage posted:Anyone have any horror stories about 2013+ SHOs? The 3.5 ecoBoosts all have timing issues similar to the BMW cooling systems. Ford claims they're not a regular maintenance item - they absolutely are. The 1st generation engines also lack port injection, so they get intake carbon buildup no matter what you do.
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Dec 17, 2020 16:50
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ncumbered_by_idgits posted:My son drives a 2010 Charger that has a very slight clunk in the front end. I have looked and could not see anything obvious. I had it in the shop the other day for something else and asked my mechanic about it. He says that the front tension strut bushings are torn and suggests I should be able to change them myself. This would be item number 21 in the picture below. Bushings are a really tight fight and can be a bit of a dick. If you have access to a hydraulic press and various drifts it's easy. Is it a completely rubber bushing or is it a steel sleeved job? Rubber ones you can do with a length of threaded bar and a stack of big washers but steel sleeved ones will need the press. I'm not familiar with the setup on these but it looks like you may need a joint splitter to get the arm off the back of the hub assembly too. Jobs like these are always tool dependent but certainly achievable if you've got them handy to use/borrow and don't mind getting annoyed at various bolts.
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Dec 17, 2020 18:56
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They're pressed. A new arm with bushings starts in the $20's from rock auto. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvuaBwrnm3M gives an idea of job.
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Dec 17, 2020 19:25
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C-Bangin' it 
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Hey all, I picked up these Datson rear LED tail lights for pretty cheap at a thrift store today. I really have no loving clue though... All I can find on these is from BA's actual website when they had them on offer in 2017-2018. Can't seem to find if there is an active market for these anywhere. Would appreciate some help on finding out if I struck gold of duds...  
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Dec 17, 2020 22:54
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Bushings are a really tight fight and can be a bit of a dick. If you have access to a hydraulic press and various drifts it's easy. Is it a completely rubber bushing or is it a steel sleeved job? Rubber ones you can do with a length of threaded bar and a stack of big washers but steel sleeved ones will need the press. I'm not familiar with the setup on these but it looks like you may need a joint splitter to get the arm off the back of the hub assembly too. Jobs like these are always tool dependent but certainly achievable if you've got them handy to use/borrow and don't mind getting annoyed at various bolts. Colostomy Bag posted:They're pressed. A new arm with bushings starts in the $20's from rock auto. Great information, thanks very much.
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Dec 17, 2020 23:18
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It finally came and it's so beautiful I don't even care they delivered it with a dead battery (and a dead keyfob battery, too)
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Dec 19, 2020 00:37
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