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Is there a stark difference between the NB1 and NB2? I'm interested in this really nice and clean looking NB1, but I don't want to drive all the way down to loving Peoria if it's not worth it. I always look at the headlights and foglights and valve cover (and frame rails) first, but honestly aside from being a bit newer idk if it really matters.
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Nov 19, 2020 19:29
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I think the NB2s all have VVT, bigger brakes and maybe LSD by default on "sport" models but that might depend on the market. Nothing crazy but all else being equal, I'd go for the FL unless you found a very nice NB1.
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Nov 19, 2020 19:52
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VVT motor, sport brakes became standard in 2002 or 2003?, Tochigi-Fuji auburn/cone style LSD was introduced 03+, coil near plug, 16" wheels, some tupperware, different front bumper (and rear?) and tail lights, center consoles are slightly different, brake booster might be a different size. That's most of it?
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Nov 19, 2020 20:19
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Is there a difference between the long rear lower control arm bolt between NA/NB? The ones I took off my car (NB) have a fine thread pitch, and the ones I was given by someone else came with nuts but both are coarse thread so I am guessing they are NA (?). I assume they are interchangeable, right? I see Treasure Coast has you select NA or NB so now I am second guessing. 
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Nov 19, 2020 22:26
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mobby_6kl posted:I think the NB2s all have VVT, bigger brakes and maybe LSD by default on "sport" models but that might depend on the market. Nothing crazy but all else being equal, I'd go for the FL unless you found a very nice NB1. 2001+ for VVT. 2003+ for bigger brakes, sport model on earlier cars. LSD is a shitshow. Look at the year specific pages on miata.net. I've had NA and NB track cars, they are basically the same.
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Nov 19, 2020 23:15
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NB2 required premium and made 2 more hp.
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Nov 22, 2020 14:11
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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Earlier this week I took my NB to the yearly inspection thing, and for the first time had it fail. The passenger seatbelt has had a few little nicks in it since I bought it and I never paid it much thought, but it has started fraying a bit over time. I figured they'd eventually say "better change it until next time" and deal with it then and noone has ever mentioned it, but now the guy apparently really noticed it. While its not a really cheap part (€250 shipped, since it has the explosive pretensioner thing), installing was a breeze. Took me all of 30 minutes at a leisurely pace, and I didn't even break any of the little plastic clips for the carpet or panels. Somewhat sad that I won't get to drive it until April or so, but at least I now have a garage so I can do some work on it over winter.
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Nov 27, 2020 20:05
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What do you mean you won't get to drive it until April? Who's stopping you?  This might actually be the first winter in years that I won't be driving mine, I have to get the arches and sills welded and painted so I'll probably end up with something else, probably the shittiest Le Mons grade deathtrap. Sucks about the belt, that's pretty expensive for a part that won't make the car faster. My passenger belt is kind of weird too, it seems to be missing the little plastic pin that stops the buckle from sliding all the way down, so passengers have to fish it out themselves. Nobody cared (or I guess checked) at the inspections so far though.
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Nov 27, 2020 20:27
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Speaking of Le Mons, several more cancellations, including the Road Atlanta race I was kinda sorta hoping to make (but probably not). Oh well, another year to get the NB ready (read- 10 months for it to sit then 2 months to frantically fix poo poo)
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Nov 27, 2020 21:03
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drat, in Texas nobody will even inspect my car. A car greater than or equal to 25 years means that I can't pass inspection until the car is 26 years old, because nobody has a smog roller machine that works anymore. So, since road laws in Houston are largely unenforced anyway, I've been driving with expired inspection and registration since February. I'll make it right next year and get classic car plates, but it's a shame that a car that will pass inspection cannot because nobody can inspect it.
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Nov 28, 2020 02:11
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mobby_6kl posted:What do you mean you won't get to drive it until April? Who's stopping you? Weather and policy decisions. It's required to have winter tyres between December and March in Sweden (it's legal to drive on summer tires when there isn't "winter driving conditions" which is an arbitrary police decision and usually means winter tires are needed). I have decided to not have any for the MX-5, since I would either have too much fun and wrap it around a tree, or the salty winter roads would turn it all to rust in a few years. Also if you can't enjoy having the top down and it's cold and wet and dark and just transporting yourself, there's not that much reason to drive it instead of a regular boring car. mobby_6kl posted:Sucks about the belt, that's pretty expensive for a part that won't make the car faster. Yeah it just felt a bit expensive. I had hoped there was a chance of either just replacing the fabric belt bit itself (which I've done on some older cars), or finding something used. But since I have the belt pretensioner on it, probably only somewhat shady places would sell it used and I couldn't find one. I did however completely ignore the "ONLY TO BE INSTALLED BY CERTIFIED EXPLOSIVES-TRAINED PROFESSIONAL MECHANICS" warning, but not a single little thing did unintentionally explode, nor did I get an airbag warning light.
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Nov 28, 2020 10:56
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Bud posted:Popping these bearings out today with an actual press and not some combo of a sledge hammer and various wood/debris from around my garage was a real treat. Oh man I stopped reading for a long time, but decided to see if you have posted anything. I'm glad it's still kicking around and giving lots of smiles 
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Dec 1, 2020 21:31
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Nocheez posted:Oh man I stopped reading for a long time, but decided to see if you have posted anything. I'm glad it's still kicking around and giving lots of smiles Still kickin! It survived (not) MATG with a few hiccups and has performed well through this shortened autox season. Off season plans include the suspension refresh, a depowered rack and ac delete and maybe putting my race seat back in.  edit - I also got a welder and patched the lone rust spot near the drivers side drain. I remember getting it back home and giving it the once over properly and finding that spot. "I thought he said no rust!" LOL 
Bud fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Dec 2, 2020 |
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Dec 2, 2020 15:30
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Bud posted:Still kickin! It survived (not) MATG with a few hiccups and has performed well through this shortened autox season. Off season plans include the suspension refresh, a depowered rack and ac delete and maybe putting my race seat back in. That sucks there was some rust, it never left the south according to the previous owner. That car is having a great life, keep it up!
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Dec 4, 2020 15:33
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Anyone here have a NA/NB Miata with interior wood trim? I have a brand new genuine Mazda NOS hand brake handle if anyone wants it, pm me [edit] Taken by Voltage 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Dec 15, 2020 |
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Dec 14, 2020 17:45
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Is there a preference on here for USB/Bluetooth adapters for stock Bose Amp radios? My wife wants to be able to stream spotify, and the way I see it if I change the head unit I'll need to ditch that amp and the speakers? I've been digging around google looking for Bluetooth add-ons Grom/GTA Car Kits/InDash PC. Just curious if there are any reputation for any of them.
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Dec 15, 2020 22:21
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Is a P2404 on a 2004 NB enough to run in the other direction? I've been reading on Miata.net and it seems like this particular code can be a real bear to fix. Anyone here ever dealt with it?
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Dec 16, 2020 02:24
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You can usually fix it for about $1000 https://supermiata.com/megasquirt-miata-PNP3.aspx
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Dec 16, 2020 02:49
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Phone posted:You can usually fix it for about $1000 https://supermiata.com/megasquirt-miata-PNP3.aspx Emissions county 
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Dec 16, 2020 03:07
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Tell me about steering wheel replacement for a 1999 NB Miata. 1. I assume my airbag is a death trap 2. Is a 4 point harness required? 3. What are these dizzing arrays of sizes? Is there a consensus on best?
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Dec 16, 2020 17:14
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Coredump posted:Is a P2404 on a 2004 NB enough to run in the other direction? I've been reading on Miata.net and it seems like this particular code can be a real bear to fix. Anyone here ever dealt with it? All depends on your mechanical aptitude. From the light research I did this code seems to indicate an issue with the EVAP system. If it were me I'd start by cleaning the air filter, replacing the gas cap, and then getting under the car and disassembling the charcoal canister and other associated systems. I don't believe the EVAP system on Miata's is terribly complicated. I also suspect a code such as this doesn't immediately trigger after one or two drive cycles. If you're unable to fix it by the time you need an inspection, clear the code, ready the monitors, pass inspection, worry about the CEL later. djfooboo posted:Tell me about steering wheel replacement for a 1999 NB Miata. 1 - Everyone assumes their stock airbags from NA/NB model Miatas are deathtraps. I'd go out on a limb and say smashing your face into a metal steering wheel of any kind is going to be detrimental for your health. If safety is a concern, I'd leave the airbag in the car. 2 - If safety is a concern for you, do not ever wear harnesses unless you're also wearing an approved HANS device. Otherwise you run the high risk of elongating your neck in an accident as the rest of your body stays in the seat and your head moves forward. 3 - That one is up to you. I personally run a 300mm or a 330mm wheel in my car as I'm 6'2 and the wheel does not interfere with my legs. Size is a preference though. This ultimately comes down to your level of acceptable risk tolerance. Personally, I accept the risk of driving on the streets in my Miata without an airbag in front of my face. Granted my Miata is not my daily and is only driven on the streets once in a blue moon, or between to get to track events. Ultimately though, I'm aware that I would likely die or be seriously maimed in the event of an accident while driving my NB on the street.
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Dec 16, 2020 17:54
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Leave the airbag in the car unless it is a track car and you're doing the entire safety system in one shot. Proper seat, 6pt harness, roll bar, HANS, steering wheel. 4pt are generally a joke, but if you for some weird reason must have one buy a Schroth ASM and leave the airbag in the car unless you want to be dead or pooping into a bag for the rest of your life.
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Dec 16, 2020 18:00
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Diametunim posted:All depends on your mechanical aptitude. From the light research I did this code seems to indicate an issue with the EVAP system. If it were me I'd start by cleaning the air filter, replacing the gas cap, and then getting under the car and disassembling the charcoal canister and other associated systems. I don't believe the EVAP system on Miata's is terribly complicated. I also suspect a code such as this doesn't immediately trigger after one or two drive cycles. If you're unable to fix it by the time you need an inspection, clear the code, ready the monitors, pass inspection, worry about the CEL later. Done blown engine swaps, trans swaps, etc in cars before but people make this particular problem sound like a real bear. But I might go for it anyhow. Miatas be hard to find in decent price/shape combos right now.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:49
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I no longer have an airbag, but I did the properly installed 6 point harness + bucket seat route, and use a Hans on the track. I'd probably have a bad time in an accident on the street, but I only really drive it to/from autox or track events and the occasional cruise. I went with a 320mm wheel, along with a good hub adapter and quick release. It brought the wheel about 1-2" closer towards me, freeing up a lot of leg space and allowing me to recline the seat for a more comfortable driving position.
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Dec 17, 2020 03:19
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Hoping yall can help me out. I've got a broken valve on one of my tires. Its barely visible, but you can sorta see where the whole loving thing is cracked in half here: Its completely flat. I have a pump at home but it wont hold air for poo poo and I dont have a way to fix it here. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can keep air in this thing long enough to limp it somewhere nearby to get fixed/replaced? I know I cant drive on it with the (nonexistent) pressure it has in it now without loving up the rim, but I really dont want to pay to have this towed for something so small and stupid (also im broke af lmao)
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Dec 19, 2020 17:07
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pull the wheel off the car and call a friend to swing by your local tire shop
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Dec 19, 2020 17:51
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Do you not have a spare? This is why you have a spare.
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Dec 19, 2020 22:13
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Anyone know if the NB2 blue/white wire on the ABS module is the right one to switch for an ABS toggle? It seems to connect to a 10a fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box. I'm not real keen on splicing into the large 15a white/red wire.
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Dec 19, 2020 22:56
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grumplestiltzkin posted:Hoping yall can help me out. I've got a broken valve on one of my tires. Its barely visible, but you can sorta see where the whole loving thing is cracked in half here: If you don't have a spare, what phone said. Use the jack in the car to jack it up, take off the wheel and have someone drive you to the nearest tire shop to have it fixed. Shouldn't cost too much unless you have TPMS in which case you'd need a new sensor probably.
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Dec 20, 2020 01:16
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone know if the NB2 blue/white wire on the ABS module is the right one to switch for an ABS toggle? It seems to connect to a 10a fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box. Blue/Wh is 10A key-on power Green (pin C) is 20A battery power Wh/Red seems to be the main battery power, probably for the solenoids. Blue/Wh would probably be the one you want.
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Dec 20, 2020 04:26
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Sold, thank you for confirming
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Dec 20, 2020 05:11
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I think the time has come to part with my Miata, since I’m driving much more in a winter climate for work and I can’t afford to have two cars if one is going to be a more expensive heavy 4wd. It’s been a good 6 year run with it. Question is, how much is it worth. 2008 sport w/ manual but it has a few issues: the top is torn at both the door corners, the wheels are corroding, it needs rear brakes, there’s a scratch/ding on the front left fender. The rear left quarter panel was totally replaced from insurance. 83 k miles. Any ideas on pricing? I’m thinking 6-7k
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Dec 20, 2020 17:16
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My experience selling Miatas is it will be a hard sell at that price if the top is torn. Put a cheap new top on it, add the cost to the price and you'll be more likely to sell it for what you want. Plus a new top is a great selling point.
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Dec 20, 2020 18:24
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I’ve been seeing NC1s in the 5-6k range with higher miles, but an intact top. NC prices are kind of dumb right now, I’m trying to find an NC1 under 5k or an NC2 under 8k.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:37
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Phone posted:I’ve been seeing NC1s in the 5-6k range with higher miles, but an intact top. My top sucks, gimmie $3000.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:19
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Phone posted:I’ve been seeing NC1s in the 5-6k range with higher miles, but an intact top. Dumb as in too high or low? I figured they would be running low since they are pretty much the stepchild now with the ND available. I've never driven an NC, if it blew me away driving wise I might consider one but I just don"t like the way they look with the toilet lid hood I can't ever unsee
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Dec 20, 2020 20:54
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Rhyno posted:My top sucks, gimmie $3000. year, miles, condition, color? Applebees Appetizer posted:Dumb as in too high or low? I figured they would be running low since they are pretty much the stepchild now with the ND available. like a kinda wider NA
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Dec 20, 2020 20:59
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06, 74k (I think, I haven't even driven it this year), black paint is a bit rough.
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Dec 20, 2020 21:36
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Phone posted:I’ve been seeing NC1s in the 5-6k range with higher miles, but an intact top. I’ll probably just dump it for 4K then, I don’t have time to deal with it and around here a top + labor will cost 1500. Somebody else could probably just do it themselves
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Dec 20, 2020 22:47
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| # ? May 30, 2024 08:50 |
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Having done a top on an NC, I can see why it tanks their value. It is such a huge pain in the rear end and for my fat rear end to get enough room to do everything, the interior from the steering wheel back had to come out. And the amount of fiddly rivets everywhere was maddening. It looks awesome when it's done, but it's just so much drat work.
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Dec 21, 2020 13:30
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