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Hello Hobbyists and Crafters of all sorts! Our friends from Creative Convention are visiting with their Travelling Showcase of Wonders and they want to see all the cool and fantastic things you've been working on! Go show them off and admire the handiwork of other talented goons! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3946255
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Dec 14, 2020 02:53
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| # ? May 16, 2024 21:15 |
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A book I read on hybrid woodworking (Marc maybe?) was really into the jigsaw for breaking down rough stock, which I thought was interesting and definitely not something I'd ever considered. The case for it was largely safety driven - a jigsaw will handle weird poo poo in a board a lot more safely than a circular saw of any form
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Dec 14, 2020 03:01
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I finally got the two cutting boards back from a cabinetmaker friend, as I lost access to my local makerspace with corona virus for a while and he was able to do the couple small bits I needed done (flattening and squaring up). The first one is a gift for my sister for Xmas, the other is for me. Have some progress shots (I ran outta battery on the sander this afternoon after work, so it's unfinished). The last shot is after I gave it a spray down with water to get the loose grains to raise up, it's all just a bunch of offcuts and scraps that I had. Board size is roughly 12x16", the other one is 16x20" approximately (no photos yet, I'm trying to finish the small one before I go away for Christmas)   
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Dec 14, 2020 12:59
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Crossposting from that traveling thread: I made bookmatched raised panel doors for a bar I'm building this weekend.  They still need some TLC before I can stain them though. When I was cutting the bevels on the panels I burnt the poo poo out of the oak so there was a ton of card scraping to clean them up.
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Dec 14, 2020 14:57
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Discomancer posted:My neighbor gave me a book on Mission style furniture and I found a great deal on some Craigslist walnut so I made a Mission inspired desk with curved rails and stretchers. I got the idea for the spindles overlapping the rails from a similar mission style Kobeomsuk desk and it really looks sharp. The two back rails are pretty wide because they have hidden bed rail hardware, set just snug enough that they need a light tap with a mallet to seat fully and keeps it from racking, but still moveable in 5 pieces. One thing I did differently than usual was to do a light chamfer on all the corners of the legs instead of a slight roundover and it looks really good--mostly I wanted to play with my new spokeshave but I think I'll keep doing that on a lot of things in the future, it catches the light really nice compared to a softer roundover, the corner looks crisp but feels smooth. Beautiful work m'dude.
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Dec 14, 2020 15:38
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Made a little box over the weekend. Didn't have any plans really, just felt like making something using stuff I had lying around:   Wood is some spalted mystery log I picked up off the curb a few years ago. I've used wood from the same log for a picture frame a while back. I had though it was red or live oak, as thats what grows around here, but now I suspect its some flavor of pine based on how it smells when cutting.
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Dec 16, 2020 19:34
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Super Waffle posted:Made a little box over the weekend. Didn't have any plans really, just felt like making something using stuff I had lying around: Trash to Treasure. That is a nice curb find
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Dec 16, 2020 19:44
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I'm pretty new to woodworking, just started dabbling this year making some simple planters. Just picked up a router and I'm looking to make some small boxes with rabbet joints. I've got 5/8" thick oak, so I want to cut a 5/8" wide rabbet, but the most my rabbet router bit can do (with the smallest bearing) is 1/2", i.e. not wide enough. Does this mean I need to use a straight bit? I've got a 3/4" straight bit that I can use with a guide or fence. Assuming I do want to use that 3/4" straight bit to cut a 5/8" rabbet, I know I need to make several passes, and to take a "small bite" with each pass, but I'm not sure in which dimension to take the bites. Do I set my fence to the full 5/8" width and take a very shallow bite, and with subsequent passes increase the router depth to take deeper bites? Or do I set the depth to where I want, and take a 1/8" width bite, adjust fence, take another 1/8" width bite, until I get to the full 5/8" width? epswing fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 16, 2020 19:53
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epalm posted:I'm pretty new to woodworking, just started dabbling this year making some simple planters. I would set the fence (use some scrap to make test cuts and sneak up on it) and keep the bit low, then start raising the bit, and make test cuts when you're sneaking up on the final depth.
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Dec 16, 2020 19:59
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Do you have any scrap wood to practice on? I wouldn't want my first go with a new tool to be on something I care about ruining.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:01
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Rutibex posted:Do you have any scrap wood to practice on? I wouldn't want my first go with a new tool to be on something I care about ruining. Yep I'm definitely going to practice on some scrap. Sorry if that was complicated, basically my question is do I generally want to take small bites by adjusting the router (depth), or the fence (width)? more falafel please posted:I would set the fence (use some scrap to make test cuts and sneak up on it) and keep the bit low, then start raising the bit, and make test cuts when you're sneaking up on the final depth. Sounds like depth is my answer.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:03
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epalm posted:Sorry if that was complicated, basically my question is do I generally want to take small bites by adjusting the router (depth), or the fence (width)? You can do either, so long as you aren't biting off too much in a single pass. I would hazard a guess that with most modern routers you'll have finer control over adjusting the router height than the fence.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can do either, so long as you aren't biting off too much in a single pass. I would hazard a guess that with most modern routers you'll have finer control over adjusting the router height than the fence. Right, makes sense. Depth was the answer I was hoping for because it seems like if the rabbet depth is a little bit off Things Will Be Alright, but if the rabbet width is off the adjoining piece won't fit properly and there will be a whole edge to fix.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:14
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epalm posted:Right, makes sense. Depth was the answer I was hoping for because it seems like if the rabbet depth is a little bit off Things Will Be Alright, but if the rabbet width is off the adjoining piece won't fit properly and there will be a whole edge to fix. Yeah, this is the other thing, although it depends on the specific application. It's always a good idea to think about what pieces can be off and what pieces can't be, and which direction you'd rather them to be off. You probably want to err on the side of the rabbet being too wide in this case, because it'll be easier to sand/plane down that extra bit of rabbet than the panel that's proud of it. This is also a situation where you should take real-world measurements rather than depending on plans for mating pieces. If you're doing, say, a rabbet at the bottom of your four box sides so that the bottom fits in, you don't want to cut the bottom to final size until the sides are together (at least dry-fit), because if those rabbets are slightly different than your plans, you want the bottom to still fit perfectly.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:10
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I got my new saw after nearly 4 weeks as Amazon lost the first one, gave me a refund then promptly delivered it a week later so now I have 2. We'll see what they say about collecting it as its too heavy for me to lug to a collection point on my own. I'm still limited by space since the workshop is still a concrete pad with an old tin shed on it so it needs to be portable, and since im working in the lounge for the near future it has to go through doorways. I got the Evolution Rage 5S as it ticks all the boxes for the above and while it has some niggles, it seems to be very well thought of over here in the UK at this price point. Especially now that Bosch do inserts that let you use normal 250mm blades and not the propriety size Evolution chose.  It opens up to allow a rip cut of 650mm to the fence, and has a sliding table with 350mm of space from stop to blade.  Its solid as a rock and then folds up into a space about the same size as my router table in about 10 seconds.  I'm really impressed with it, and its going to get put to the test this weekend when I start working on that massive pile of wood on the floor for my bookcases.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:23
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Something that just occurred to me -- if you're using a router to cut across the grain and don't want tearout at the ends, you could probably just cut across the grains at the ends with a utility knife and nip that problem in the bud. I bet I never figured that out previously because I used to do drat near everything with power tools, whereas these days it's more of a balanced mix.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:25
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more falafel please posted:It's always a good idea to think about what pieces can be off and what pieces can't be, and which direction you'd rather them to be off. When I made dados the first time with a router, I needed to make two passes, so I made double extra sure the bottom lip was right so if I was a little wide, the shelf would still sit on the material and be level with the other side. I also put the fence so it limited movement toward that edge so if (when) it moved away from the fence, it was cutting "up" and not digging into the material that was providing the actual support. I felt proud of myself when I figured that out. 
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Dec 16, 2020 21:39
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serious gaylord posted:
Oh rly? Have you more info - I’ve been offered the cheaper evolution table saw for free but it’s got a gently used blade.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:43
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proprietary table saw blades? Even Sawstop knows better than to try that.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:53
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Oh rly? Have you more info - I’ve been offered the cheaper evolution table saw for free but it’s got a gently used blade. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Prof...11&s=diy&sr=1-1 Just a couple of pounds. You can get really nice blades made by Saxton that fit 25.4mm as standard anyway, but I have a bunch of blades with barely any wear from the previous saw. JEEVES420 posted:proprietary table saw blades? Even Sawstop knows better than to try that. Its Evolutions thing. Their blades can cut everything from Mild Steel to wood so they have a special bore size to make sure they don't get put in non Evolution saws.
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Dec 16, 2020 22:21
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serious gaylord posted:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Prof...11&s=diy&sr=1-1 Huh. No one's gonna put a ring spacer into one to get a standard fit just cause? Interesting it's rated to cut soft steel. What hardness carbide do you reckon? Also, do you think a max cut width of 650 mm (I'm guessing around 24") is going to suit your needs? I always felt cramped cutting plywood sheets with that small a fence. Interesting looking saw, you Euros/Brexits are way more sliding table geared; which I wish they were here too. I suppose one could rig one similar to an above-board sled.
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Dec 17, 2020 02:20
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Metalworking tools can be quite handy for woodworking, no problems with a DRO to make two identical slots on each side of the catapults.  
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Dec 17, 2020 05:22
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His Divine Shadow posted:Metalworking tools can be quite handy for woodworking, no problems with a DRO to make two identical slots on each side of the catapults. What is a mill but a really well controlled router? Or is a router a free range mill?
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Dec 17, 2020 06:05
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Mr. Mambold posted:Huh. No one's gonna put a ring spacer into one to get a standard fit just cause? Interesting it's rated to cut soft steel. What hardness carbide do you reckon? Also, do you think a max cut width of 650 mm (I'm guessing around 24") is going to suit your needs? I always felt cramped cutting plywood sheets with that small a fence. Interesting looking saw, you Euros/Brexits are way more sliding table geared; which I wish they were here too. I suppose one could rig one similar to an above-board sled. It's rated for up to 8mm mild steel so will do most box/angle. I would use a dedicated metal saw for proper work though. 650 is more than enough for me since anything bigger I use my track for. I never feel comfortable breaking full sheets down on anything less than a panel saw. Big enough to cut kitchen cabinets which is all I need right now.
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Dec 17, 2020 13:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:Metalworking tools can be quite handy for woodworking, no problems with a DRO to make two identical slots on each side of the catapults. Grab some end mills and a cross sliding vise and you can goon this device together with a drill press (god help me) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHtfcjwHERA
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Dec 17, 2020 14:41
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Rutibex posted:Grab some end mills and a cross sliding vise and you can goon this device together with a drill press (god help me) I bought my drill press many years ago for the purpose of using it as a Mill. I wouldn't exactly call it accurate but for rough milling it works really well.
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Dec 17, 2020 15:28
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BTW congrats on your new cutting board empire.
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Dec 17, 2020 18:45
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Anyone have any experience with Direct Tools Outlet? I ordered this little guy today since the table saws at Home Depot/Lowes are always mysteriously broken and I’m sick of cutting 2” stock in the parking lot by hand. Seems super cheap, and I already have several Ryobi batteries from lawn tools. Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 19:02
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Rock My Socks! posted:Anyone have any experience with Direct Tools Outlet? I ordered this little guy today since the table saws at Home Depot/Lowes are always mysteriously broken and I’m sick of cutting stock in the parking lot by hand. Seems super cheap, and I already have several Ryobi batteries from lawn tools. I've gotten a few things from there and had no problems. Offhand, I've gotten a Ryobi corner cat sander, a Ryobi dustbuster, a Ryobi belt/disc sander, a couple Ryobi batteries, and a Ridgid air brad nailer. Some of it has come effectively new-in-box, some of it without the box but still with all the accessories/manuals. Nothing where anything was broken or obviously lovely (except for being Ryobi in the first place), but I also only really buy stuff that's cheap enough to treat it as a flier.
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Dec 17, 2020 19:11
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ColdPie posted:BTW congrats on your new cutting board empire. 
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Dec 17, 2020 19:47
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more falafel please posted:I've gotten a few things from there and had no problems. Offhand, I've gotten a Ryobi corner cat sander, a Ryobi dustbuster, a Ryobi belt/disc sander, a couple Ryobi batteries, and a Ridgid air brad nailer. Some of it has come effectively new-in-box, some of it without the box but still with all the accessories/manuals. Nothing where anything was broken or obviously lovely (except for being Ryobi in the first place), but I also only really buy stuff that's cheap enough to treat it as a flier. Thanks! I’m assuming that Ryobi fits in between Harbor Freight and Dewalt/Milwaukee/Makita in terms of quality?
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Dec 17, 2020 20:32
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Rock My Socks! posted:Thanks! I’m assuming that Ryobi fits in between Harbor Freight and Dewalt/Milwaukee/Makita in terms of quality? Yeah the tier list is approximately this for portable power tools: S: Festool, Hilti A: Milwaukee, DeWalt, Makita B: Porter Cable, Metabo (formerly hitachi), Skil, Kobalt, Rigid C: Ryobi, Black & Decker, Craftsman F: HF & off brand poo poo
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Dec 17, 2020 20:37
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Ryobi, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc. are all variable in quality from one tool to the next. I'm fairly heavily invested in Ryobi stuff and I have found them to be mostly fine to excellent. I have a Milwaukee grinder and a Portercable porta-band and they're similarly good to my ryobi tools. That's not universal though and there's always duds in every manufacturer's lineup. e. the one thing I'll caution is that the smallest of the 18v batteries is not suitable for the biggest jobs; my string trimmer was disappointing till I got a big battery for it. The small ones are fine for hand tools like drills. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 20:38
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Leperflesh posted:Ryobi, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc. are all variable in quality from one tool to the next. I'm fairly heavily invested in Ryobi stuff and I have found them to be mostly fine to excellent. I have a Milwaukee grinder and a Portercable porta-band and they're similarly good to my ryobi tools. That's not universal though and there's always duds in every manufacturer's lineup. there is also a difference between their battery and corded power tools with pretty much all of them.
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Dec 17, 2020 20:42
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Rock My Socks! posted:Thanks! I’m assuming that Ryobi fits in between Harbor Freight and Dewalt/Milwaukee/Makita in terms of quality? Yeah, Ryobi and Ridgid are Home Depot house brands. I'm not on a jobsite, and I'm not a professional, I'm a nights/weekends type hobbyist, and so I've bought a number of Ryobi tools. I don't expect them to last forever, and I don't expect them to be super high quality, but for *most* things, that's fine. When they poo poo the bed, assuming I'm deeper in this hobby than I am now, I'll buy better versions. But until then, they're fine. The one big exception is the Ryobi table saw. I absolutely don't recommend buying a Ryobi table saw for any reason. edit: The other thing to point out is that there are a lot of home/jobsite Ryobi tools that aren't really woodworking-shop related, but since they run on the same battery platform and they're cheap, they're convenient for me. I've got a little jobsite fan I use for camping or just around the house, and a dustbuster-type vacuum that I occasionally use in the shop, but just used it for like, the couch. more falafel please fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 20:44
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more falafel please posted:Yeah, Ryobi and Ridgid are Home Depot house brands. I'm not on a jobsite, and I'm not a professional, I'm a nights/weekends type hobbyist, and so I've bought a number of Ryobi tools. I don't expect them to last forever, and I don't expect them to be super high quality, but for *most* things, that's fine. When they poo poo the bed, assuming I'm deeper in this hobby than I am now, I'll buy better versions. But until then, they're fine. The one big exception is the Ryobi table saw. I absolutely don't recommend buying a Ryobi table saw for any reason. Yeah I should say basically, you care about brand if you're investing in one line's batteries since they're not cross-compatible; but within a given line of tools, you gotta check reviews and stuff for each tool because some are duds. That table saw for example. Most of my ryobi tools are general homeowner stuff, not woodworking-specific. That AwE guy that does tool breakdowns has done a couple of Ryobi ones over the years, he didn't find them to be especially awful IIRC: https://www.youtube.com/c/arduinoversusevil2025/search?query=ryobi e. ok he did a hot glue gun which was fine, and then he took apart and messed up a nail gunner, talked about the sequence it required to use it and then didn't follow that sequence, and finally declared it to be crap. So ehhhh maybe not that video series after all lol Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 20:52
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I've settled on Bosch for my battery tool needs and have been pretty happy with them, and would rank them neck and neck with DeWalt 20v. The older 18v Bosch batteries were a product of their time and really lacking now, but the new "Core" batteries are great. *Porter Cable Warning* They were bought by Black & Decker and it seems any tool that B&D already made is getting a Porter Cable sticker slapped on it. With the exception of niche stuff like dovetail jigs and other router stuff, PC is pretty much B&D, which (imo) is nextdoor to off brand junk. To reiterate what Leperfish said, with the exception of battery stuff, don't get tied to a specific brand. Some brands have amazing routers, but their biscuit joiners are poo poo. Other Brand's specific tools sometimes just get looked over when reviews come out. An example would be Makita's compound miter saw which is every bit as good as the usual suspects who always make the top 3. Blistex fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Dec 17, 2020 |
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Dec 17, 2020 20:56
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I mean, Black & Decker aren’t all bad. I have a waffle maker that’s really perfect and it’s almost 15 years old. But the drill that I got from them as my first power tool was never really good.
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Dec 17, 2020 21:29
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Jhet posted:I mean, Black & Decker aren’t all bad. I have a waffle maker that’s really perfect and it’s almost 15 years old. B&D's tools have been on a steady decline for the past ~30 years. While they were never a premium brand, at one time they did make tough, reliable tools. In the last 15 years or so they've been using "brand less" tools (a generic tool that a factory will pump out for cheap and slap on any logo for another company too small/cheap to make their own stuff). While it's not 100% disposable garbage, longevity, durability and precision are sorely lacking in a lot of B&D's stuff. If you're a suburban family that replaces a deck board every few years or so, then B&D is a good choice for you. If you're posting here, you might want to spend a little more on something better.
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Dec 17, 2020 21:39
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| # ? May 16, 2024 21:15 |
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Kobalt, Ryobi, and Rigid seem to be in a weird space where some of their stuff is pretty good and some complete crap. Most of it is ok. Older Craftsmen tools are not related to newer craftsmen, it's like buying an old Stanley hand plane vs a new one. I don't think I've ever hated or found unusable something I got from Dewalt, Makita, or Milwaukee but I expect that to change at some point in the future. Harbor Freight runs the gamut from this tool actively tries to kill the user to prosumer that saves price on quality control. If you are doing batteries, don't get anything more than 10 years old and used is a crapshoot. Old style Li batteries are way worse than the NiCads and the new style Li batteries tend to be better than NiCads except when undersized. I have the slightly older 18V NiCad Dewalts and they perform admirably, but are starting to reach the end of their life cycle and I'm going to have to replace a LOT of tools in the not to distant future. Obsolescence is an issue with battery tools.
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Dec 17, 2020 21:44
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