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Those are some sick rims too
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Dec 19, 2020 00:45
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spankmeister posted:Those are some sick rims too I've never experienced that phrase without withering irony I don't know what to do
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Dec 19, 2020 00:46
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tactlessbastard posted:It finally came and it's so beautiful I don't even care they delivered it with a dead battery (and a dead keyfob battery, too) Bad rear end. Who cares. You get to bond with it now making all the little poo poo right.
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Dec 19, 2020 00:49
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tactlessbastard posted:I've never experienced that phrase without withering irony I don't know what to do I jest. Those do look really nice.
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Dec 19, 2020 00:53
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It looks very black in that picture, must be the light. Congrats!
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Dec 19, 2020 15:45
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It looks very black in that picture, must be the light. Congrats! Thanks! It is a very dark green for sure, and with the overcast yesterday (and naturally rain today) its looking pretty black. 
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Dec 19, 2020 18:45
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How do I make an offer on a used car at a dealership? I'm looking at a Honda Fit that's been on the market for 60 days, Cargurus says it's a "great deal" at 14k , ~1600 below market. It's currently priced at roughly private party value Like can I offer 1000 over trade-in? (12k) Or will they tell me to go gently caress myself
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Dec 19, 2020 19:53
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you can do whatever you want, friend
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Dec 19, 2020 21:38
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Dolphin posted:How do I make an offer on a used car at a dealership? I'm looking at a Honda Fit that's been on the market for 60 days, Cargurus says it's a "great deal" at 14k , ~1600 below market. It's currently priced at roughly private party value Research it; find a price range you’re comfortable with. Always assume you’re walking away with nothing. Offer the lowest figure in your range. Walk if they don’t agree. Wait a day or two, if you still want it, offer them somewhat more.
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Dec 19, 2020 21:47
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I actually just called a bunch of dealerships and they "don't negotiate over the phone" Like wtf, we're in the midst of a pandemic and you want to force me to come into your dealership? Are they even trying to sell cars?
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Dec 19, 2020 22:02
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Congratulations, you've discovered that the sales arms of dealerships are almost exclusively owned, managed, and staffed by scum of the earth dickholes. Surprisingly I've had better luck getting negotiation done via email. Ask them for their out the door price (since a good negotiated "purchase price" isn't so hot if they tack a ton of horseshit on top) and start negotiating from that. But re-reading your original post - I'd expect most dealers to laugh at an offer 15% below asking on a late-model used Honda.
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Dec 19, 2020 22:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:But re-reading your original post - I'd expect most dealers to laugh at an offer 15% below asking on a late-model used Honda. I was going to buy a truck but those are outrageously priced right now.
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Dec 19, 2020 22:24
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generally asking at the end of a quarter is best because of how ~metrics~ work at big dealerships (last weekend is fine)
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Dec 20, 2020 00:09
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Dolphin posted:Several of these cars are already priced at 10% below fair market value. They're selling slowly for some reason. Almost as if the various sources of "market value" have incentive to inflate their numbers. 
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Dec 20, 2020 16:36
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My 2012 Impala is blowing slightly warm air when the heat is on. I can hear the actuators moving and they seem to be ok at least for the passenger/driver temperature control. As a sanity check, it's blowing so it's not the fan, the temperature gauge is perfectly fine so it's probably not the thermostat. The cooling lines are insulated but warm going out and cold going in. Does that mean the heater core is probably dead? From what I’ve read it would cause temperature gauge problems or smell weird? I’m leaning towards just selling the car. Repairing it means taking off the dash and pulling out the plastic the shifter is on which would be expensive as poo poo and the car is only worth $1,000 anyway. Carnival Rider fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 06:20
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Is there enough coolant in the system? When it's low sometimes you don't get enough to circulate through the heater core.
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Dec 22, 2020 14:49
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The coolant level is either low, the heater valve is clogged or broken, or there's a problem with flow to/in the core. When a core fails, it either clogs (unlikely) or leaks. If it leaks, you'll know. It'll make the cabin stink like coolant, it'll steam up the windshield, and the floor will be wet. Here's how I'd approach it: 1. Check coolant level. Fill and bleed if needed. 2. Disconnect heater hoses (with car cool) and flush water through the core with a hose. If nothing comes out the other hose, the core is plugged. If water flows through no problem, then the problem lies elsewhere. 3. Find heater valve and disconnect outlet. Start car, turn on heat, and make sure that coolant goes through the valve. You can try to capture the coolant if you don't want to toss it by connecting a hose to the outlet and sticking it in a bucket. It's also possible that your water pump is failing and the cold weather is masking the problem.
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Dec 22, 2020 15:00
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Well the issue I asked about earlier was a warped manifold. Cost me about 1100 to get fixed. It runs way better now, but the alternator light turned on this morning. No issues starting. I attached my code reader and the voltage was 12.5v, then dropped to 7 while starting, and then up to 14.5 once it was running. Does anyone know why the light might be on? As I understand it, the pre and post start voltages are good, and the battery is charging. The battery is only a year old so I hope it isn't bad. I had this issue a while back but when I replaced the battery terminal bolts the alternator light went away. Is there a short or something I need to find? Everything electrical seems to work OK.
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Dec 22, 2020 15:13
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sharkytm posted:The coolant level is either low, the heater valve is clogged or broken, or there's a problem with flow to/in the core. When a core fails, it either clogs (unlikely) or leaks. If it leaks, you'll know. It'll make the cabin stink like coolant, it'll steam up the windshield, and the floor will be wet. Yeah chances are low coolant. Another thing to try is to warm up the car and rev it to around 3-4K, hold it steady and see if you get hot air. That can eliminate a few possible things that are wrong.
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Dec 22, 2020 15:59
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C-Bangin' it 
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Carnival Rider posted:My 2012 Impala is blowing slightly warm air when the heat is on. I can hear the actuators moving and they seem to be ok at least for the passenger/driver temperature control. Before opening the system: as already advised, check the coolant level (easiest: rev the engine. Otherwise, best in the morning when dead cold, check the overflow bottle). If it's not that: somewhere along the inlet line (hopefully, not buried too deep in the cabin) is some kind of valve that controls the rate of flow of coolant into the heater core. Either the valve, or the actuator that controls it, may have failed. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 16:48
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Christ thanks everyone, I know enough to be dangerous but always like getting second opinions. The in and out going to the heater core was hot and the passenger side was warming up slightly. The driver side temp control actuator would make noise when I changed it from hot to cold but the damned gear broke. When the other 2 actuators broke on the passenger side they made horrible clicking noises. The driver side just sounds like it's working but the vent doesn't actually move. gently caress Chevy, they use really crappy actuators and holy crap it's real hard to get to that piece of crap on the driver side or passenger blend.
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Dec 22, 2020 22:26
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Still looking around for a bangers car. But I don't want a complete wreck, rather something I could daily in the winter while the miata is getting patched up. There's another Honda, with an EGR code and rough idle. Apparently the seller checked and the valve is clean and in good condition, which IMO makes it worse because then it might not a simple fix. Any ideas what else could be throwing the code? The idle I'm thinking is either related, or the throttle body, TPS or maybe a vacuum leak or something. There's also another candidate that had a bit of an oopsie on its right side. I don't care about the doors but it seems there's a bit of damage on the B pillar. Seems like it might be possible to pull the dents out maybe? Or would it be better to stay away?  
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Dec 24, 2020 12:43
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What specific EGR code is it throwing? If it's "flow when no EGR called for", then the valve is stuck open, and the rough idle would very much confirm that. Or the vacuum lines are mixed up to the valve. That B pillar damage makes me nervous. Might want to have a body shop measure it and make sure there's no frame damage.
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Dec 24, 2020 14:36
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My son's F23A on his '01 Accord threw persistent EGR codes. The throttle body looked like Godzilla took a poo poo in it. I removed it & cleaned it. It was good for about a month. Engine seals/rings were pushing that much oil through, although not enough, apparently, to show in the exhaust. This is what it looked like after a month:  
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Dec 24, 2020 18:23
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Hey AI, been a while....got a dumb question for you. My mother in law has a (1994? I think) 4wd FZJ80 Land Cruiser that she bought new which now has about 200K miles. I love that truck. It had an engine fire recently. Literally happened the day after her local shop changed the fuel injectors, so I'm sure there was a leak to blame. Luckily it was right in front of a police station so my wife and kids got out of the car and it got put out fairly quickly and confined to the engine bay. She's still going back and forth with insurance about the valuation but it's toast, the Toyota dealer is quoting $20K to repair, if they could get a replacement 1FZ, which they say they can't. I'm currently deployed overseas, so I don't have as much detail on the situation with the truck as I'd like. But I'll eventually be going back there, for several years. Gut check - Is it worth buying back from insurance and trying to find a reman/used engine to drop in, or maybe doing a Vortec/LS swap? Or will that be more trouble/expense than it's really worth? I'm handy-ish, done some work on cars and motorcycles, but I've never cracked an engine open, and I hate dealing with electronics and wiring, so I'm not sure that I'm up to doing a project of that scale. And I've got two little kids and will have a long commute when I'm back there so probably not a lot of free time. While I could afford to pay someone to do the work, some quick initial research leads me to think for the cost, I could probably just go buy a brand new GTI or Miata instead and have less headaches.
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Dec 24, 2020 22:18
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Last time I did an engine fire resurrection, it was the wiring harness and hoses; the hard parts of the engine were fine. I spliced in new wiring. Based on your (admittedly third-hand) description, the fire wasn't burning very long and was probably confined to the top of the engine. You'll need a 1FZ engine harness and a shitload of vacuum hoses at the least. Possibly rails and other plast-housed parts. The shop won't let it go without some kind of guarantee that it won't explode colorfully, so in a fire situation, they'll write it off without looking too closely at it. Which means it is probably not that dire, and nothing the likes of you & I couldn't repair. Obviously I'd have to get a peek in there....and is assuming that it wasn't running when it was doused with water/chem/powder. Where is it located? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Dec 24, 2020 |
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Dec 24, 2020 23:15
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Yeah honestly usually it's the bullshit on the outside of the motor, the hood, and maybe the firewall and windshield that take all the damage in a minor engine fire. Can you get pictures? It sounds like a junkyard trip or two and it might be good to go, or at most, a parts truck that's been rear ended or something, park them next to each other and swap stuff until it's whole again. Finding out the year splits on the parts you need can be annoying, especially harnesses, those often change every year or two.
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Dec 25, 2020 00:40
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I had two engine fires when I owned my e30. The first one I had fixed in about a week after replacing sections of the wire harness and the timing belt. The second one took 6 or 7 weeks. I ended up replacing most of the wire harness in the engine bay, timing belt, fuel lines, melted plugs, injectors, etc. All that was done in less than two weeks, what took so long was tracing the wiring to figure out why it wasn't starting afterwards (turns out two small hidden plugs had been switched around). I guess my point is that it can be a quick fix or it can take a really long time even if you're pretty good with car electrical systems. 1994 shouldn't be too bad to work on, but it's still nothing I would do again unless I couldn't afford a replacement car or I had a strong connection to the car.
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Dec 25, 2020 01:28
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A fire that's small enough to be contained within the engine bay/hood? Yeah sure that's not much worse than rodent damage. If the dash and windshield are damaged from heat or smoke, consider it a parts donor. it can be fixed, at a great cost of time.
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Dec 25, 2020 02:00
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That's reassuring thanks y'all. Maybe it's less serious than initially expected, pending more info... Car is in the richmond VA area. I'll try to get some photos from my wife. It's at a tow yard currently...no clue why they are racking up fees instead of keeping it in the driveway but I'm not there to make decisions. Yeah I'm somewhat attached to the car, enough that if I could fix it in under a month or so myself or get it back to DD reliability by paying someone else less than 5 figures I would be tempted to do it. But if the cost gets irrational I'd be ok letting it go.
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Dec 25, 2020 05:31
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What's the shop doing to make up for almost killing your wife and child? Or I guess it' "can't be proven it was our fault, gently caress you"?
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Dec 25, 2020 07:09
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At the very least 80 series Land Cruisers are currently on a vertical trajectory as far as value goes so even if you were to buy it back and just sell the shell, essentially, you'd probably make out alright.
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Dec 25, 2020 08:54
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It really depends how long the fire was burning, and where it was burning. Gasoline burns hot enough that it could have warped the heads and/or block. More than likely the engine itself is fine if it got put out quickly like you say, but all of the accessories, hoses, sensors, and wiring will probably be toast (alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, etc). Is there any smoke damage inside? Ultimately that and/or a damaged windshield would be the deciding factors for me. Along with the cost to get it out of the tow yard - those fees add up quick. I wouldn't want to even put a battery in it until all of the underhood wiring is replaced. If it was put out quick, then it's probably worth fixing. Like Kaker said, you can probably sell the shell for more than what it'll cost to buy back, though it may take awhile. You're looking at a lot of work, basically rebuilding the engine bay around the engine. My own 2 cents - If it were a second car with another vehicle to use while repairing it, I'd go for it. If I needed to rely on it as my primary form of transportation anytime soon, either let it go, or buy it back and part it out. I'm not entirely sure I'd even trust it to be reliable even after being repaired, at least not without compression and leakdown tests to verify the engine is still in decent shape. Even then I'd want to hear the engine run as soon as possible to ensure it's not making naughty noises - which will take a lot of work. If any smoke got inside (.... we all know it did), you'll need an ozone machine to get rid of the smell. Ozone machines also tend to destroy leather, cloth, etc if you run them too long. (source: parents used to own a carpet cleaning/flood restoration/fire restoration company... I was using ozone machines when I was 11  )MrOnBicycle posted:What's the shop doing to make up for almost killing your wife and child? Or I guess it' "can't be proven it was our fault, gently caress you"? ^^^ This. There's a good chance this may be lawyer territory. I wouldn't commit to anything before consulting with a lawyer and her insurance first, though there's a good chance her insurance company's lawyers have already contacted the shop's insurance company to at least attempt to recoup their own losses (for paying to replace the vehicle). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Dec 25, 2020 |
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Dec 25, 2020 13:26
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Yeah they've spoken with an attorney, though I'm not sure if my MIL has retained her own already or is using the insurance company to start with. From what I can tell the shop is trying the "It's an old car! Who knows how that happened? Unfortunate coincidence!" argument. I have no idea how well that is going to work for them. Guess we will wait and see, hopefully I can get some more info about how bad the damage actually is before a decision has to be made. Good points about the dash/windshield/interior, I honestly hadn't even considered that aspect of things. I know MIL is thinking "won't trust it again, just sell it/let the insurance deal with it". I was shocked when I started googling around and seeing some prices, I didn't realize the 80 series had started commanding that much money.
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Dec 25, 2020 13:54
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Decided to do a little drive in my downtown today, checking out Christmas decorations, not leaving the vehicle of course, and after I parked the car, set for about a minute, then to start the car, all I hear is a grinding noise. The radio won't come on, lights will come on I think, but otherwise the engine's not turning over. So as I wait here for a tow on Christmas day, at least it's not super cold out or anything, but I just had the ignition fixed a few months ago, after the car stopped running when I was in drive. What is it going to be this time? Car is a 99 Honda accord.
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Dec 25, 2020 17:17
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STR posted:What specific EGR code is it throwing? If it's "flow when no EGR called for", then the valve is stuck open, and the rough idle would very much confirm that. Or the vacuum lines are mixed up to the valve. Probably not worth bothering then, I don't have any DIY bodywork experience and a piece of poo poo Yaris isn't going to be worth the body shop time. E: PainterofCrap posted:My son's F23A on his '01 Accord threw persistent EGR codes. The throttle body looked like Godzilla took a poo poo in it. I removed it & cleaned it. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Dec 25, 2020 |
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Dec 25, 2020 17:42
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Cowslips Warren posted:Decided to do a little drive in my downtown today, checking out Christmas decorations, not leaving the vehicle of course, and after I parked the car, set for about a minute, then to start the car, all I hear is a grinding noise. The radio won't come on, lights will come on I think, but otherwise the engine's not turning over. So as I wait here for a tow on Christmas day, at least it's not super cold out or anything, but I just had the ignition fixed a few months ago, after the car stopped running when I was in drive. What is it going to be this time? How old is the battery?
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Dec 25, 2020 18:19
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Colostomy Bag posted:How old is the battery? 3 years. The tow truck guy asked to see under the hood, showed me how the negative battery cord was corroded, and loving cleaned it off for me. I didn't need a tow. I do need a loving kick in the head because I never cleaned it myself. So need a new battery and a new cord. I can handle that.
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Dec 25, 2020 18:28
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Cowslips Warren posted:3 years. You may not even need a new battery cable depending on how badly corroded it is. I used to have a pontiac that corroded like a mother fucker but if I cleaned it every 6 months or so it was fine. Scrub it with a mix of baking soda and water and an old toothbrush, then rinse with water and dry off.
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Dec 25, 2020 18:50
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Tyro posted:You may not even need a new battery cable depending on how badly corroded it is. I used to have a pontiac that corroded like a mother fucker but if I cleaned it every 6 months or so it was fine. Scrub it with a mix of baking soda and water and an old toothbrush, then rinse with water and dry off. Just scrub the entire top of the battery/that side of it, or just where the cable connects?
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Dec 25, 2020 22:27
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