|
Cthulu Carl posted:Yeah, hopefully they're able to work something out and come back. The only thing that kept me from getting more than a couple boxes from them was I ran out of places to stash paints even before I subscribed. What's really sad is that it's basically because of Brexit and the failure of the UK and EU governments to come up with a trade agreement. Pretty soon you'll have to pay customs on any goods coming from the UK. I'm definitely not paying an extra 20% on Asset Drop/Games Workshop/Reaper so I hope these guys figure something out. Like the AD people explained, losing all of their non-UK customers is not something they can afford, and UK customers wouldn't make up for the difference. If that's a sign of things to come to post-Brexit UK it doesn't look too good.
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 16:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 03:06 |
|
|
Furism posted:I'm definitely not paying an extra 20% on Asset Drop/Games Workshop/Reaper
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 16:11
|
|
|
HopperUK posted:First ever mini! Lots of newbie mistakes. Didn't prime properly, haven't finished the base. Rushed a bit, shaky hands, bad eyesight, etc. Still it was loads of fun and I intend to keep going with the rest of these rat boys and get better as I go. For your first mini that’s pretty great. The fact that you’re identifying areas of improvement is good too, you will improve quickly. If you go back in the thread there are links to a video about mitigating shakes. Good lighting and cheap reading glasses can help if you have vision problems.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 16:12
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:For your first mini that’s pretty great. The fact that you’re identifying areas of improvement is good too, you will improve quickly. Thanks so much! I have legendarily terrible eyesight, already mitigating as much as I can. I have a headlamp thing I use, very bright, and glasses I already wear. I will check out that video though, thank you!
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 16:28
|
|
|
inscrutable horse posted:Also, as people in this thread pointed out to me when I started, distance from spray-can to model also plays a big role. I've primed models in perfect conditions that still came out with a cruddy texture, because I was spraying from too far away. I tried so long to get this right. Now I just brush on the primer. It's a lot better and a lot cheaper. I imagine airbrush is the best way to prime. But I think brush on is leagues better than rattlecan and more than worth the time investment.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 17:29
|
|
|
HopperUK posted:First ever mini! Lots of newbie mistakes. Didn't prime properly, haven't finished the base. Rushed a bit, shaky hands, bad eyesight, etc. Still it was loads of fun and I intend to keep going with the rest of these rat boys and get better as I go. That's great! When you finish the base you should post it again. A decent base really makes a huge difference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 17:35
|
|
|
Do you guys put the model onto the base then put on basing material, or put on basing material then put on the model? The latter seems like more work but better results
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 17:55
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Do you guys put the model onto the base then put on basing material, or put on basing material then put on the model? The latter seems like more work but better results Model first, then basing material - I mostly just use Liquitex ceramic stucco.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 18:00
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Isn't Reaper based in the US? Their EU shipping center is in the UK.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 18:02
|
|
|
a7m2 posted:That's great! When you finish the base you should post it again. A decent base really makes a huge difference. Thanks, I will! Should I get hold of some sand or something or will a paint job suffice? What do folk usually use?
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 18:19
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Do you guys put the model onto the base then put on basing material, or put on basing material then put on the model? The latter seems like more work but better results Depends on how elaborate you're getting. When I made these industrial bases there was pretty much no way to do it with the minis attached, in part because I slapped styrene discs in top of the bases but also because painting the bases with the models on there would've been a nightmare.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 18:29
|
|
|
Spanish Manlove posted:Do you guys put the model onto the base then put on basing material, or put on basing material then put on the model? The latter seems like more work but better results I always completely finish bases and models separately then stick em together. Most of the time I pin a point of contact or two based on what everything's made out of; Pinning is warranted if there's an less than stable layer like just texture paste and you need a substantial connection between model plastic and base plastic, whereas it's fine to just glue something directly to a rock or whatever which is in turn glued to the plastic of the base. Early on I realized I hated trying to apply material between the models legs and whatnot, as well as the common techniques for base painting like drybrushing meant there was just a whole lot of annoyance in doing everything clean if you stuck to the typical painting guide sequencing of glue model directly to base -> paint model -> applying basing material. It also makes batch basing way more easy since you can just bang out a pile of bases and get them totally finished. Then, whenever you finish a model you can preview it standing on all the different ones you've got made to see what looks the coolest.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 18:29
|
|
|
I was all gung-ho to paint models and bases separately, and then I realized that a lot of the models I have are standing on rocks/dirt that's part of the model, so when I go to glue them on to the bases (which already have ground texture on them) I need to apply some more ground texture around those rocks/dirt mounds to make the whole thing look complete. Unfortunately I've already zenithal primed my models, so I figure at this point I'm going to prime all the bases and either just glue the models on, apply some texture paint and brush on a quick bit of primer, or paint everything separately, glue the models on, and then do a prime/quick paint touch up to finish. Either way I created a bit of a mess for myself. All part of the learning process.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 18:40
|
|
|
Ok cool that's what I was thinking. I'm going to try making more bases then putting the model on. However, did some more free-hand and I made the decorations on the armor clean but decided to keep it rough on the chainsword to make it look like the marine did it himself. It's just a direct elder futhark translation of Drengr which I learned from Assassin's Creed Valhalla means "honored warrior" 
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 19:03
|
|
|
Finished up one of my Heralds of Tzeentch. I’m really enjoying painting organic models, so I’m looking to start building a Tyranid force in a couple of months or so.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2020 21:57
|
|
|
Those colors are most excellent.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 00:57
|
|
|
The first Space Marine that I've painted since the 2nd ed monopose Marine. Learned a lot from making this guy. Mostly that mould lines really show up on camera when you miss them. 
AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Dec 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 02:15
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Learned a lot from making this guy. Mostly that mould lines really show up on camera when you miss them. An issue that haunts even the best of us. https://twitter.com/_rhubard/status/1338819243446562816
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 02:23
|
|
|
Anyone have any tips for Vallejo polished gold? It’s coming out of the bottle really thick, much thicker than other vallejo metallics or the regulars, and wether its diluted with water or not its not painting very consistently. I’ve shaken it for minutes, used agitator balls and shaken, used a nail polish shaker, and its coming out streaky and clumpy but looks too thin at the same time, and needing a couple coats to cover anything. The regular silver metallic that came from the same box applied great so I am kind of confused.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 02:54
|
|
|
Quick question for people who've used static grass before. Do these puffball blooms look like the sort of thing I could make a reasonable approximation of with an applicator and the appropriately colored grass? Does static grass even take color?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 04:40
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:Quick question for people who've used static grass before. Do these puffball blooms look like the sort of thing I could make a reasonable approximation of with an applicator and the appropriately colored grass? Does static grass even take color? Honestly you might be better off just getting something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Multicolored-Decorations-Jolly-Monkey-Mart/dp/B07JF2BSMH If you have an airbrush and don't drench them I can't imagine they wouldn't take paint just fine (or just pick out the white ones depending on how many you need). You could maybe approximate it with like tiny craft foam balls coated in static grass but getting the density right would be pretty tough I'd think. If you did want to go that route your best bet is probably using model railroad static snow flock like this: 
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 06:02
|
|
|
Cool, thanks. I've never used the stuff before so I figured I should ask before I spend any money on the attempt.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 06:13
|
|
|
Dr. Red Ranger posted:Quick question for people who've used static grass before. Do these puffball blooms look like the sort of thing I could make a reasonable approximation of with an applicator and the appropriately colored grass? Does static grass even take color? You could potentially apply static grass to the outside of a styrafoam ball. You should be able to get various sized balls from a craft store, I’ve seen pink static grass for sale somewhere but I don’t remember where. You could also try the alien pink grass tufts from gamergrass.com, you could probably approximate a sphere by putting two back to back.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 08:46
|
|
|
You can definitely paint static grass. Airbrushing it is easiest and best, but you can drybrush it if you're patient. Incredibly, incredibly patient. For your alien spore-puffs, I'd consider looking at craft puffballs and teasing out some of the strands so they're a little spiky. You could also do Halloween cotton spider webs for the interstitial strands. If you want the whole thing to look gross, you could drop a little ink into some gloss varnish and get a tinted slime coating.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 15:10
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Learned a lot from making this guy. Mostly that mould lines really show up on camera when you miss them. A good trick I learned one day is to clean the mold lines before priming, but also after. A simple priming reveals a lot of the lines you can miss without paint on them. Furism fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Dec 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 16:33
|
|
|
These wings were a lot of fun to paint. Not sure whether to wash the white robe - I kinda like how it doesn't look quite real.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 19:59
|
|
|
That pic makes me want to make a Tyranid or other biotech alien army and a table with normal terrain getting taken over by alien mold.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 20:15
|
|
|
So I just discovered Spider Serum from Greenstuff World thanks to a Squidmar video. I think that'll easily get me halfway there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2020 22:41
|
|
|
Painted some more Space Hulk terminators. Flamer guy. Real happy with this one. The next ones I'm not sure about. My initial concept was that the unit is in pitch darkness, only illuminated by the muzzle flash of their weapons. This presents a problem for the guys not actively shooting their guns, though. Here are a couple of attempts to resolve that:  The idea here is that he's being lit by very weak red emergency lights set into the floor. The only other light on the model is from his eyes.  I gave this guy striped light from above, as if he's standing under a sewer grate or something like that. He also just ripped a genestealer's head clean off, so he must have gotten sprayed pretty hard, and what if genestealers have fluorescent green blood? I like this idea, but I'm not sure my execution is good enough.  The librarian's axe is glowing with a blue-white glare as he does a space Gandalf "you shall not pass" thing.  Individually those are all fine, I think, but the squad now has a serious lack of cohesion with colours all over the place. I'll probably end up stripping them and redoing them in such a way that they are simply being lit by muzzle flash coming from the side.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 00:34
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:Painted some more Space Hulk terminators. I think for the one ripping off the genestealer head you could still add a muzzle flash to him, like he's just blind-firing down a corridor full of bugs while he tears into the closest one. The other guy is a bit trickier - maybe you could greenstuff in a slightly larger floor light somehow and give it a fluorescent yellow tone? Wouldn't be a perfect match but it would look closer I guess. I think the librarian would still work since he's meant to stand out anyway, but I think you want a darker blue and maybe even some harsher shadows since it's a much larger and more even light source. The flamer one is amazing though, and cohesion aside they are all still great.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 01:45
|
|
|
Anyone with experience stripping paint off, about how long did you let the miniatures sit in the super clean/ simple green? I have a vat of marines going that I wasnt pleased with the paint job on and I was curious. I saw the goobertown hobbies guy had near complete paint removal at about 2 hours or so. Using Super Clean.
Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Dec 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 03:34
|
|
|
The few times I've stripped paint I used about 50/50 simple green and water dilution and just end up doing 24 hours as that easily works for my "hobby time" windows. But goobertown always seems to be good info.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:Painted some more Space Hulk terminators.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 11:47
|
|
|
Yeah, that rules hard.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 12:38
|
|
|
My 2cp is that, to me, it doesn't read like you describe (emergency lights from below). That kind of lights I think tend to be much brighter and lighter red than what's shown there. I think it would really work if you added something that looks like an actual emergency light on the base and build the OSL around it (as you did on your muzzles)?
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 13:59
|
|
|
i think a lot of them would also benefit from being photographed on a darker background to match the tone you're going for
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 14:20
|
|
|
Stuff I've done over the last couple of weeks, all Malifaux; Joss for the Arcanists. Base is intended to be scrapyardy, has wound up looking a little too busy. I'd use one or two fewer things next time, but it doesnt distract from the figure too much, its more that all the elements prevent you really seeing any one single bit. Probably doesnt help that I went in real heavy on the rust.  Oxfordian Mages, also Arcanists. I'm still working on getting better at OSL (I think these guys are my third attempt ever, and attempt #1 was an accident), but tesseract glow really is easy mode for it, as long as your light source can feasibly be neon yellow/green.    The Drowned for the Resurrectionists. They are technically not 100% done, I'm waiting for a dry day to spray varnish then I'll add a tiny amount of cheap water effect to the bases to give them something to be walking out of. But its december, I'm in scotland, realistically I might be waiting til march. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 14:33
|
|
|
Geisladisk posted:Individually those are all fine, I think, but the squad now has a serious lack of cohesion with colours all over the place. I'll probably end up stripping them and redoing them in such a way that they are simply being lit by muzzle flash coming from the side. You say lack of cohesion, but this could also be a clever way to have color coded individual models for a small model count game like Kill Team. Rather than power ranger painted armor, let the lights do the work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 14:48
|
|
|
Yeah I'd strip and re-do with a faint yellow from their teammates' guns tbh
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 17:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 03:06 |
|
|
Geisladisk posted:Painted some more Space Hulk terminators. Several observations that will maybe help you get the cohesion back?
Maybe it will actually look like rear end, but I think the goal is to make them look like they are in the same environment, and the only way to do that is with the muzzle flash color. Perhaps arrange them in a cool team pose, and then imagine the light from the gun fire lighting up the non-shooting guys, but less intensely from directions that make sense in the specific pose. Ignite Memories posted:Yeah I'd strip and re-do with a faint yellow from their teammates' guns tbh Basically this, but with the added point of using the blue from the axe and red from the lights, etc, but those are not the MAIN light source. Serenade posted:You say lack of cohesion, but this could also be a clever way to have color coded individual models for a small model count game like Kill Team. Rather than power ranger painted armor, let the lights do the work. Unfortunately I agree with OP. They don't look like they belong in the same scene.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2020 22:06
|
|
