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I'm trying out the mineral oil for some scrapwood trivets I'm giving away and it seems very good and affordable. They look beautiful.
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Dec 21, 2020 21:43
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CommonShore posted:I'm trying out the mineral oil for some scrapwood trivets I'm giving away and it seems very good and affordable. They look beautiful. You can mix the mineral oil with beeswax and it looks great. I want to say it was recommended on a long page back to go 9:1 oil to wax or so. It did set mostly solid for me, but wipes on and buffs up to a nice shine. It’s also food safe if you start with food safe mineral oil (cheap at the drug store).
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Dec 21, 2020 22:05
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Someone wants me to help add center support to their bed. Their king size bed has really mediocre center support and the slats sag. They wanted to replace their slats with a single thick sheet of wood but I'm not sure something that size... exists? What kind of wood would you recommend for a center support? Besides that, I saw an older post in this thread about placing a thin sheet of plywood over the slats to distribute weight. Is that feasible? I'll probably try that too.
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Dec 21, 2020 22:16
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As a beginner, I was looking for a small easy project to play with and came across a simple jewelry box.quote:This felt-lined jewelry box makes a great place to keep your watches and other jewelry. Perfect for beginning woodworkers, Let's see what tools they recommend.  Yup, let me get on buying a thousand dollars of power tools to make this "beginners box".
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Dec 21, 2020 22:26
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Uthor posted:As a beginner, I was looking for a small easy project to play with and came across a simple jewelry box. LOL! Sure just all the tools any homeowner has lying around. Also, a biscuit joiner for a small jewelry box? Maybe I'm doing things wrong but it doesn't seem necessary.
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Dec 21, 2020 22:31
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Uthor posted:As a beginner, I was looking for a small easy project to play with and came across a simple jewelry box. Yeah I wish I could give everyone a copy of Anarchist's Design Book. There is a ton of good stuff you can build with a really limited toolkit.
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Dec 21, 2020 22:31
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GEMorris posted:Yeah I wish I could give everyone a copy of Anarchist's Design Book. There is a ton of good stuff you can build with a really limited toolkit. How are the plans in that book? Is it shop drawings or full on plans with cut lists?
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Dec 21, 2020 22:35
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Uthor posted:As a beginner, I was looking for a small easy project to play with and came across a simple jewelry box. Biscuit Joiner? lol Grandpa Amu is not impressed
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Dec 21, 2020 22:37
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sockpuppetclock posted:Someone wants me to help add center support to their bed. Their king size bed has really mediocre center support and the slats sag. They wanted to replace their slats with a single thick sheet of wood but I'm not sure something that size... exists? What kind of wood would you recommend for a center support? A thin sheet of plywood would make sense to me if the issue was that you had enough slats for the weight, but they weren't spaced closely enough, allowing the mattress to sag through in the gaps between the slats. But it sounds like the issue is that the slats aren't strong enough. I don't think that even 3/4"-thick plywood would provide the kind of support they need in that case. They need either considerably stronger slats, or something like a 2x4 running the length of the bed in the middle, which is supported by either securing it to the head/footboard, or giving it its own legs. A 2x4 ought to be plenty for a central support, in any case.
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Dec 21, 2020 22:40
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Bloody posted:Are the bench dog (rockler house brand) or woodriver (woodcraft house brand) planes any good? I have the bench dog shoulder plane. The “interior” finish was really rough and the sole was hollow behind the mouth. I don’t know if this is common to other designs, but I haven’t found the sweet spot in tightening down the blade where it is solid but still adjustable, so every adjustment requires loosening it with a screwdriver. The sides are square enough though, and I managed to get it sharp enough, so it’ll do.
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Dec 21, 2020 22:42
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NomNomNom posted:As a mostly power tool user who dabbles in hand tools, I opted for Rob Cosman's basic bench. If you have a table saw and a hatchback you can make this bench. The top is 4 layers of 3/4 mdf and the legs are 18mm baltic birch laminated. I kitted mine out with matchfit dovetail clamp tracks. Tons of great work holding options for planing, routing, and sanding. What's the two different belt sanders on the jewelry box for? There's no planer listed so please tell me it's for shaping the lid or something "Now we're going to dimension this into a half inch board with just a belt sander"
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Dec 21, 2020 22:57
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Rufio posted:How are the plans in that book? Is it shop drawings or full on plans with cut lists? Cutlist + illustration + tons of process photos + really good process instruction.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:00
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Uthor posted:As a beginner, I was looking for a small easy project to play with and came across a simple jewelry box. It sounds absurd because it is absurd, but the guy I bought my Grizzly 8" jointer from in '84 did that, except x 20. He'd never made anything with wood, idk where his money came from, and had a rented single car garage-shop where all these new tools were sat or hung. He wanted to flip the jointer for an Inca jointer/planer for reasons of space- which he did, and I think he also got one of their bandsaws that G.E. mentions occasionally. Only time I've seen those tools in the wild. Guy stroked out a year or so later in his 30's.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:Guy stroked out a year or so later in his 30's. Woof. Carpe diem.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:10
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Watching Paul Sellers make poo poo makes me dearly want a band saw.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:19
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Discomancer posted:What's the two different belt sanders on the jewelry box for? There's no planer listed so please tell me it's for shaping the lid or something "Now we're going to dimension this into a half inch board with just a belt sander" The only time that a sander is mentioned in the instructions: quote:The lid (A) can also be glued from two or more pieces. If you’re planing the wood to the final thickness, glue it together first, then take it down to 1/2" with a drum sander. You can see the project here, but the instructions are in a PDF. https://www.minwax.com/wood-projects/accessories/diy-jewelry-box-plans
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Dec 21, 2020 23:26
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Be wary of project plans from folks who's main business is selling tools.
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Dec 21, 2020 23:30
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Uthor posted:The only time that a sander is mentioned in the instructions: Now they want a drum sander too? Holy poo poo these are impressively bad plans. Looks like I'll be buying that Anarchist Design book though. Looks super sweet
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Dec 21, 2020 23:34
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sockpuppetclock posted:Someone wants me to help add center support to their bed. Their king size bed has really mediocre center support and the slats sag. They wanted to replace their slats with a single thick sheet of wood but I'm not sure something that size... exists? What kind of wood would you recommend for a center support? It is often recommended not to put a mattress on a flat sheet of anything because it can cause mildew growth if there isn’t enough airflow to the underside. Other sources say this is fine as long as the humidity in the bedroom is controlled, but i personally wouldn’t take the risk. Probably the easiest way to solve this is to buy a prebuilt bunkie board - you can get a king or a pair of twin xls, which are the same length and half the width - and drop that in on top of the existing slats. If you still need extra support in the center, cut a 2x4 to length and use it as a center leg. Anything more complicated than that will have you substantially reengineering the bed and at that point it’s probably more cost effective to buy a new one unless the current bed has a lot of value.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:00
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Baronash posted:Honestly, restoring an old hand plane isn’t ideal, but it’s not difficult and doesn’t have to require any woodworking-specific skills. Mineral spirits and scotchbrite pads make quick work of surface rust, and flattening the sole only requires a flat surface and some sandpaper. Problem is finding planes to restore. eBay's figured out they can charge a lot more, and yard-sale finds are getting more difficult to come across. But if you do find one to restore, you can make it look and work like factory fresh for$25 or less.
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Dec 22, 2020 00:02
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Uthor posted:The only time that a sander is mentioned in the instructions: Plans like that are part of why it took me so long to really get into woodworking. Like, I need a jointer and a biscuit joiner? God drat I don't have the money or the space for that, guess I'll just not do anything. 
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Dec 22, 2020 00:16
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I don't have a biscuit joiner and never really considered buying one. Those who have them, are y'all happy with them? Does it mostly save time flattening a panel or does it add strength to the joint? Gotta say, I'm really happy I found this thread. I don't know any other woodworkers irl and I'm not about to venture into reddit. Rufio fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 01:14
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Rufio posted:I don't have a biscuit joiner and never really considered buying one. Those who have them, are y'all happy with them? Does it mostly save time flattening a panel or does it add strength to the joint?
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Dec 22, 2020 01:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It definitely does add strength even on edge/edge joints, and adds quite alot on end grain to edge grain joints. It's basically a small floating tenon. It's an okay way to build cabinet doors or faceframes. Mortise and tenon is definitely stronger, but for smaller/lighter stuff it's hard to beat the effort/benefit of a biscuited joint. I mostly use mine to keep stuff aligned on glue ups and it's really helpful if I haven't perfectly face joined long stock for a big tabletop or something. Is there a particular one that you would recommend?
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Dec 22, 2020 01:29
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Not a biscuit joiner, but I've heard good things about this, with the caveat that the springs on it need to be replaced or pushing the thing down is brutal. Also that there are lemons from the factory, so testing and returning might be in the cards. You can also find dowel jigs; I have one, and it's pretty quick to do, but making sure I have both pieces oriented correctly can sometimes be an adventure. Can't wait for the Domino patents to expire.
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Dec 22, 2020 01:35
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For edge-edge glue-ups, how much better are biscuits vs. just using some cauls across the joint to hold it flat while the glue dries? I mean, the glue's stronger than the wood itself, right? So I'm having trouble seeing how it could add much strength.
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Dec 22, 2020 01:37
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ColdPie posted:Woof. Carpe diem.  He for sure seized.Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It definitely does add strength even on edge/edge joints, and adds quite alot on end grain to edge grain joints. It's basically a small floating tenon. It's an okay way to build cabinet doors or faceframes. Mortise and tenon is definitely stronger, but for smaller/lighter stuff it's hard to beat the effort/benefit of a biscuited joint. I mostly use mine to keep stuff aligned on glue ups and it's really helpful if I haven't perfectly face joined long stock for a big tabletop or something. This on edge/edge joints. If you do it right, the glue joint is stronger than the wood, so it's not necessary for that. But neutralizing bows in a glue up is a good thing.
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Dec 22, 2020 02:26
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i'm glad to hear the lost art press books are actually useful--getting incessant instagram ads (well, and buying a house so i finally have space for woodworking) is what finally made me crack and start picking up used chisels and such. looking at the plans, i want to see about hand-cutting a mortise and tenon with what i have. the rex krueger vids are helping my confidence in THAT quite a bit, too. thanks everyone
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Dec 22, 2020 02:33
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E: Re: Dowels. Dowels do much the same thing as biscuits, but because they are round, they are not nearly as good a glue joint, and the glue joint around dowels fails fails fails. Tons of late 19th C./ early 20th C. furniture was doweled, and I've had to repair plenty of it. Because a dowel is round, most of the glue area of the dowelled butt joint is end grain to long grain (weak) and very little of it is long grain/long grain (strong). The hole for the dowel usually gets made slightly oversized as the drill bit wanders, and dowels just don't have much cross sectional area vs. an appropriately sized tenon. Use epoxy instead of glue with dowels. Epoxy doesn't care about grain orientation and does better with a sloppy joint. Dowels have their uses, but I'd generally go with a biscuit over a dowel. Rufio posted:Is there a particular one that you would recommend? Lamello is the original biscuit jointer and maybe they are nicer and Swiss or Italian or something but also $$$.TooMuchAbstraction posted:For edge-edge glue-ups, how much better are biscuits vs. just using some cauls across the joint to hold it flat while the glue dries? I mean, the glue's stronger than the wood itself, right? So I'm having trouble seeing how it could add much strength. I also use them in combination with pocket screws to index stuff. Pocket screws are good, but at least for me they tend to pull stuff out of alignment when I tighten them down and biscuits (or dados) help prevent that. A glued/screwed butt joint with a loose tenon is definitely better than a glued/screwed butt joint without a loose tenon. I mostly do mortice and tenon frames but for stuff like painted cabinets or shop furniture I love biscuits and a double biscuit is plenty strong. It seems like a Festool domino probably does everything a biscuit jointer does better, but at 4-6x the price. I'm not sure if it does it 4-6x better, but I'd love to have a reason to find out someday. SEX HAVER 40000 posted:i'm glad to hear the lost art press books are actually useful--getting incessant instagram ads (well, and buying a house so i finally have space for woodworking) is what finally made me crack and start picking up used chisels and such. looking at the plans, i want to see about hand-cutting a mortise and tenon with what i have. the rex krueger vids are helping my confidence in THAT quite a bit, too. thanks everyone Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 03:39
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I have the DeWalt biscuit jointer and it gets occasional use, exclusively for large panels. In the new year I'm gonna drop the $$$ on the big Domino, we will see if I regret that decision.
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Dec 22, 2020 05:11
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sockpuppetclock posted:Someone wants me to help add center support to their bed. Their king size bed has really mediocre center support and the slats sag. They wanted to replace their slats with a single thick sheet of wood but I'm not sure something that size... exists? What kind of wood would you recommend for a center support? None of that is necessary if the slats are sturdy and cover roughly half the surface area of the bed. If it's literally just slats going unsupported from side to side you will want to add a head-to-toe bar straight down the center, then add a support in the middle. Then just connect it to the head and foot boards. If there is a center bar but just no fifth leg in the center, ours broke off in a move and the only option I had to fix it on hand was a cut off 2x4. Ten years later, it still hasn't budged. It doesn't take much.
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Dec 22, 2020 05:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:E: Re: Dowels. Dowels do much the same thing as biscuits, but because they are round, they are not nearly as good a glue joint, and the glue joint around dowels fails fails fails. Tons of late 19th C./ early 20th C. furniture was doweled, and I've had to repair plenty of it. Because a dowel is round, most of the glue area of the dowelled butt joint is end grain to long grain (weak) and very little of it is long grain/long grain (strong). The hole for the dowel usually gets made slightly oversized as the drill bit wanders, and dowels just don't have much cross sectional area vs. an appropriately sized tenon. Use epoxy instead of glue with dowels. Epoxy doesn't care about grain orientation and does better with a sloppy joint. Dowels have their uses, but I'd generally go with a biscuit over a dowel. I was taught (and here is where I note that I am an amateur, this is something I am unsure about, though I enjoy the process of building with them) to use grooved dowels and to use a jig to avoid wandering, and to do them in pairs if you can. As I understand it, that should deal with the issues you describe? (And that's pretty much what a Festool Domino is, isn't it?) Epoxy is interesting though for sloppier dowel joints, I didn't know about that, thanks. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 05:38
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A Domino isn't a dowel and many many pages of text have been spilled on the internet over this fight. The proportion of non-end-grain contact (where neither the loose tenon nor the workpiece are "presenting" end gran to the other) is *astronomically* higher with a domino than with a dowel. A dowel is almost entirely end grain contact on at least one piece. A domino is a tenon. It might have curved edges, but it is a tenon and it works like a tenon and has been tested to have the strength of a tenon and loose tenons have been in use for hundreds of years. Domino haters (and I was one for a short bit right when they came out) are domino haters for one of two reasons: 1. They think the suffering gives the work purpose, and the Domino makes things too easy. Or 2. They can't afford one. A *lot* of them present as #1 but are actually #2
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Dec 22, 2020 06:01
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Interesting. My understanding was that a grooved dowel like this one (though the ones I've used are 1/4", and way cheaper) presents sufficient porous surface to be at least in the ballpark. (I'm trying to rationalize buying a Domino next bonus at work anyway, so I'm definitely not saying they suck.)
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Dec 22, 2020 06:06
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The problem isn't with the dowel, so changing the texture of the dowel won't fix the problem (those grooves were explained to me as being for glue escape in my manufacturing classes fwiw). The problem is that in at least one of the pieces in a 90° joint, and both of the pieces in an edge joint, the workpiece with the hole is presenting the dowel with almost no edge grain at all, maybe 30% of the total circumference of the dowel might count as edge-to-edge contact. Compare that to the flat surfaces on a domino and you can see how the surface area that matters is vastly different. I see a purpose for biscuits from time to time, I almost never see the purpose of dowels other than as a time/quality tradeoff.
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Dec 22, 2020 06:22
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Gotcha. That makes sense. Thank you. And THANK YOU, DAD :|
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Dec 22, 2020 07:09
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I just finished up making presents for my two little boys. They are 4 and 7, so I may regret making them slingshots, but I had a blast making them and for now they will only know the ammo to be felted wool balls (we'll see how long that lasts). And they shoot amazingly well for really knowing nothing about slingshots. The start. This piece was labeled "Rosewood" when I bought it. I have no idea what it actually is.  Pretty fun seeing it move from a chunk of wood into a shape.  All finished up. I used Alfie Shine as a quick finish and I'm loving it. 
Falco fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 08:17
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GEMorris posted:Domino haters (and I was one for a short bit right when they came out) are domino haters for one of two reasons: I hate dominos because of #2 and the fact that epoxy exists for much cheaper is a good counter to #1. But I can't afford anything so I bitch about the cost of all of it.
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Dec 22, 2020 12:02
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I need advice. (Sorry for the retread from the discord conversation last night, just looking for more eyes on this) I'm building a bar, I think I've posted about it before in this thread. I've got the doors mounted and need to work on the drawers but here it is as it stands right now:  Below the sink will be 3 drawers, other than that everything is made, but needs to be finished (stained, poly, etc..) What I'm concerned about is the wine rack. Does it look like it should have a frame or anything? The way I designed it was to have all of the stiles(? I think that's the proper term for the vertical members) in the face frame have a 2" reveal. The reveals to the left and the right of the wine rack are at 2", so I can't easily plop a frame to match the doors without severely shrinking the opening of the wine rack. Since it's on my phone, here's what it would look like with a light in the wine rack, I do have the ability to run all of the wiring in-cabinet.  Thanks to Reik on discord for their input last night.(looks good with light, just leave it) AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 13:51
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AFashionableHat posted:Interesting. My understanding was that a grooved dowel like this one (though the ones I've used are 1/4", and way cheaper) presents sufficient porous surface to be at least in the ballpark.  They allow glue to escape, but the grooves are put in by compressing the wood, so when it gets wet (glue) it expands and fills the hole tighter while also being easy to insert. Biscuits work the same way-that little waffle pattern stamped on the face of them compresses the wood which then expands when it gets glued. It's hard to pull a biscuit out of the slot once it has been in wet glue for a minute because the wood expands. Falco posted:I just finished up making presents for my two little boys. They are 4 and 7, so I may regret making them slingshots, but I had a blast making them and for now they will only know the ammo to be felted wool balls (we'll see how long that lasts). And they shoot amazingly well for really knowing nothing about slingshots.  AFewBricksShy posted:I need advice. I like how consistent the grain is in all the door panels.
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Dec 22, 2020 14:39
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