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ansel autisms posted:film spends most of its life curled tightly around a reel I get it, nevertheless, Lab 1 returned 6 rolls of perfectly flat film, while Lab 2 gave me curled film. So perhaps Lab 1 spoiled me? Anyway, I took another roll to Lab 2, along with samples showing what they did last time, and what I was hoping they could give me on this next roll. The guy at the counter said: "Can't do it, because we don't cut medium format film." I gave my best "are you kidding me"-face, and the guy corrected himself: "Actually, we do, but it's $2 per cut (=$10 for one roll)", I continue my "are you kidding me" position, so finally a lab guy said: "$2 per roll for cutting, put [blurb] into the special instruction section and we'll do our best to get you a flat developed film." Fingers crossed they deliver. If not, I can always go back to Lab 1. Sorry for the lame derail ... Edit: ... and the lame page snipe.
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Dec 8, 2020 02:34
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Wild EEPROM posted:When you get the film roll back, just flip it around and roll it back up, and after an hour you’ll be about 95% of the way there
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Dec 8, 2020 03:47
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Wild EEPROM posted:When you get the film roll back, just flip it around and roll it back up, and after an hour you’ll be about 95% of the way there Ok, I'm a moron for only try to flatten them out in a heavy book (which did not work), not rolling it up the other way (which did the trick).
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Dec 8, 2020 04:00
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Wild EEPROM posted:When you get the film roll back, just flip it around and roll it back up, and after an hour you’ll be about 95% of the way there i just use the big friedlander book to flatten film out. takes a week.
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Dec 8, 2020 17:05
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bobmarleysghost posted:i just use the big friedlander book to flatten film out. takes a week. https://www.amazon.ca/Friedlander-Peter-Galassi/dp/0870703447/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=lee+friedlander&qid=1607453693&sr=8-9 Hey not bad, $733.99 is only 367 rolls worth
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Dec 8, 2020 19:55
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bobmarleysghost posted:i just use the big friedlander book to flatten film out. takes a week. I think I might have left some prints flattening in my copy of Magnum Cover Sheets... six months ago. Yes, yes I did; hello work I forgot about.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:20
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I'm still a noob and getting used to what I can and cannot do with film. I thought that the junk on the negative could cause more harm when I leave it under a heavy weight than I would solve with flattening out the film.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:25
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theHUNGERian posted:I'm still a noob and getting used to what I can and cannot do with film. I thought that the junk on the negative could cause more harm when I leave it under a heavy weight than I would solve with flattening out the film. You won't know how much junk is on your negs until you scan them in after so you should be good!
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Dec 9, 2020 03:10
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Yeah, I forgot that dust and scratched add ~~~character~~~.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:47
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I meant the shots themselves!
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Dec 9, 2020 03:58
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Dec 9, 2020 22:37
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Is the GX617 the most economical 6x17 camera (with interchangeable lenses) that can be taken seriously?
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Dec 22, 2020 17:58
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theHUNGERian posted:Is the GX617 the most economical 6x17 camera (with interchangeable lenses) that can be taken seriously? If you already have some large format stuff (like a lens that covers 6x17) there is a Shen Hao 6x17 view camera thats about the same price ($3k). There is also the older G617 that is cheaper, it has a fixed 105mm lens and is scale focus (I think the GX617 is also scale focus)
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Dec 22, 2020 22:52
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6x17 is not to be taken seriously
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Dec 22, 2020 23:02
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eggsovereasy posted:If you already have some large format stuff (like a lens that covers 6x17) there is a Shen Hao 6x17 view camera thats about the same price ($3k). I do not, ... eggsovereasy posted:There is also the older G617 that is cheaper, it has a fixed 105mm lens and is scale focus (I think the GX617 is also scale focus) ... and I would really need something longer. Wild EEPROM posted:6x17 is not to be taken seriously Yeah, my brain knows this. I had a nice session on Monday, where I realized that I need to come back on a day with more interesting clouds ... and it would be dope to do this particular scene in 6x17 because 6x7 at 350 mm (what I was carrying that day) crops out some nice parts, and 6x7 at shorter focal lengths includes too much poo poo above and below the interesting area. Fortunately $3k is way too much for just one picture, and renting is out of the equations as well because I won't know when the conditions will be right. Maybe I'll try digital and just stitch it together.
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Dec 23, 2020 00:19
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theHUNGERian posted:I do not, ... You can get 6x12 roll film backs for large format (did you have a 4x5?). You can also stitch film shots together.
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Dec 23, 2020 01:16
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theHUNGERian posted:Is the GX617 the most economical 6x17 camera (with interchangeable lenses) that can be taken seriously? You could always go with one of the Holga 6x12 options to see if you like it for way, way less money. There's the 6x12 'Holga Pan': https://www.freestylephoto.biz/200120-Holga-120-Pan-Panoramic-Camera People have also mounted their own lenses on the Holga Pan, so you could always try that: http://www.oddcameras.com/holgamods_612_pan.htm And then there's the 'WPC' or 'Wide Pinhole Camera': https://www.amazon.com/Holga-Panoramic-Camera-Format-Black/dp/B07M937HNV I have the WPC and was actually surprised with how sharp it is!
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Dec 23, 2020 02:13
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Blackhawk posted:You can get 6x12 roll film backs for large format (did you have a 4x5?). You can also stitch film shots together. Never had large format anything. I think stitching is the way to go for now. frogbs posted:You could always go with one of the Holga 6x12 options to see if you like it for way, way less money. There's the 6x12 'Holga Pan': https://www.freestylephoto.biz/200120-Holga-120-Pan-Panoramic-Camera The Holgamod looks cool as heck. But 90 mm would be too wide.
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Dec 23, 2020 17:24
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I should actually have a crack at 3D printing a 6x12 camera sometime. Should be pretty simple to make if I use an LF lens and shutter combo and a lot lighter for the same number of frames as carrying my 4x5 if I want to go on more strenuous hikes. Not sure if I should just go with fixed infinity focus or try to have some kind of zone focus helicoid.
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Dec 24, 2020 04:24
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Blackhawk posted:I should actually have a crack at 3D printing a 6x12 camera sometime. Should be pretty simple to make if I use an LF lens and shutter combo and a lot lighter for the same number of frames as carrying my 4x5 if I want to go on more strenuous hikes. Not sure if I should just go with fixed infinity focus or try to have some kind of zone focus helicoid. I found this working 6x12 design on Thingiverse that I've been meaning to print. The only real issue I can see on it is with film flatness as you can tell from the sample shots. If you have some CAD ability you might be able to optimize it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2852935 There was also the suspiciously similar yet seemingly better designed K-pan 6x14 that showed up on some photo blogs and an unsuccessful Kickstarter. I could never find any files to print it unfortunately. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/paulhausen/k-pan-the-3d-printed-panoramic-camera?ref=nav_search If you're interested in 3d printing cameras in general you should check out Dora Goodman Cameras https://www.doragoodman.com/. Completely free designs including a zone focusing camera based around mamiya press lenses, also two different focusable 6x7 cameras using rb67 magazines and large format lenses. One of those two even has some limited view camera movements. Edit: After a little more googling I found this set of files for a 6x12 on etsy for $30. It includes a ton of different models for lens cones and and its designed to use a m65 to m65 helicoid. The sample shots look really promising too. Tbh this might be the one I print. https://www.etsy.com/listing/790289977/the-kraken-612-3d-printable-panoramic?ref=shop_home_active_1&crt=1 Ziggy Smalls fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Dec 26, 2020 |
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Dec 26, 2020 13:59
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Ziggy Smalls posted:I found this working 6x12 design on Thingiverse that I've been meaning to print. The only real issue I can see on it is with film flatness as you can tell from the sample shots. If you have some CAD ability you might be able to optimize it. Awesome thanks for all the info, I'll check it out!
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Dec 27, 2020 05:47
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I have read favorable reviews of the Da Yi S-IIA which can shoot 6x12, 6x14, and 6x17. While not cheap, it is more affordable than the Fuji GX617. Suppose I wanted to use a 300 mm f/9 Nikkor-M with this camera, I understand that I would need a lens cone. But how would I focus? Do I also need a bellows or a helicoid? I am assuming I would have to make my own hyperfocal scale?
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Dec 27, 2020 20:56
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theHUNGERian posted:I have read favorable reviews of the Da Yi S-IIA which can shoot 6x12, 6x14, and 6x17. While not cheap, it is more affordable than the Fuji GX617. Suppose I wanted to use a 300 mm f/9 Nikkor-M with this camera, I understand that I would need a lens cone. But how would I focus? Do I also need a bellows or a helicoid? I am assuming I would have to make my own hyperfocal scale? You buy what they call a "lens cone" for each lens, which puts the lens at the appropriate distance from the film and which appears to come with a helicoid.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:15
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MrBlandAverage posted:You buy what they call a "lens cone" for each lens, which puts the lens at the appropriate distance from the film and which appears to come with a helicoid. Aha, I didn't realize the helicoid was part of the lens cone. Thanks.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:23
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A couple from my recent walks around town. Still lots of throwaways, and I am working on fixing my mistakes.   I would really appreciate critique on this one. It looks off, but I don't know why.  The massive stray light was not intentional, but I don't think it completely ruined the shot.   I was ecstatic when I saw the car parked in front of a shop, but space was crazy limited, so I was only able to do macros. Sunrises and sunsets remain a challenge, and I am slightly worried about a roll that filled up on a single sunrise. Pro 400H is especially difficult (I know it's not due to reciprocity failure because exposures were 1/3 s and shorter), but I am improving my metering method, and if the next roll fails too, I'll meter with a prism. I am super stoked about the roll of Ektar 100 I am currently filling up. 
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Dec 31, 2020 02:12
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For the shot you asked for feedback on: it looks like it's not quite level, and it's bothering me that it's not quite head-on. It looks like you're standing slightly off-center from the building - not enough to make it fully obvious, and close enough to make my brain think you were trying to shoot it head-on.
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Dec 31, 2020 04:33
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Dec 31, 2020 07:49
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Nice. I think I asked before, but what do you shoot on?
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Dec 31, 2020 07:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Nice. Provia 100F
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Dec 31, 2020 12:15
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CodfishCartographer posted:For the shot you asked for feedback on: it looks like it's not quite level, and it's bothering me that it's not quite head-on. It looks like you're standing slightly off-center from the building - not enough to make it fully obvious, and close enough to make my brain think you were trying to shoot it head-on. Thanks. I'll take another look. The opportunity was very limited because the place is behind a fence, and only a narrow section of the fence is "see-through", and you can still see some vignetting from it. Edit: Never mind, I see it too now, and I should have seen it before taking the picture. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 15:37
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Unrelated questions: 1. In a LF camera you can make adjustments to the position of the lens board. This is necessary in order to get lenses of different focal lengths to focus (a 300 mm lens needs more bellows extension than a 90 mm). But is fine focusing is still done with a helicoid? If so, since the position of the lens board can be adjusted, that means that its position is not perfectly reproducible, and so the distance markings on the helicoid are not reproducible either, right? So you can't just set the helicoid to infinity and expect things to be reasonably in focus, instead, you have to verify focus with a loupe, right? 2. With all the movement that LF cameras offer, how do would you reset all the components such that all movement and tilt have been removed (everything is perfectly aligned)? Do things snap into position when you are close enough, or do you have to read the labels on all the knobs and ensure that they are all zero?
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Dec 31, 2020 17:43
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theHUNGERian posted:Unrelated questions: 1) there is no helicoid, the lens is rigidly mounted to the lens board and all focusing is done using the bellows. No markings can be considered reproducible especially with movements, the final word is how the image looks on the ground glass. 2) some cameras have nothing which sucks (intrepid I think?) Mine has small white dots which you line up to get everything back to zero, but again it all depends on what you want to see on the ground glass.
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Dec 31, 2020 20:50
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Blackhawk posted:1) there is no helicoid, the lens is rigidly mounted to the lens board and all focusing is done using the bellows. No markings can be considered reproducible especially with movements, the final word is how the image looks on the ground glass. Got it, thanks!
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Dec 31, 2020 20:55
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Blackhawk posted:1) there is no helicoid, the lens is rigidly mounted to the lens board and all focusing is done using the bellows. No markings can be considered reproducible especially with movements, the final word is how the image looks on the ground glass. Actually with some LF cameras like Linhof and Arca-Swiss, most of the movements have millimeter markings so you can try to closely repeat the same movements.
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Jan 2, 2021 11:02
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Acros is my favourite B&W film on 35mm so I gave it a go on 120, so far so good?  
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Jan 6, 2021 08:51
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Some ektar from last night. 
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Jan 9, 2021 01:30
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Blackhawk posted:Some ektar from last night. These are good shots but I'm more impressed that you shot last night and have them processed and scanned today.
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Jan 9, 2021 04:21
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VelociBacon posted:These are good shots but I'm more impressed that you shot last night and have them processed and scanned today. When you've started a company designing and building automatic film developing machines it's easy :P
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Jan 9, 2021 05:00
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I've got all of the parts of my 6x12 camera 3d printed. Now I'm just waiting for the focusing helical and the Rodenstock 90mm lens I bought to show up in the mail. Im also going to paint the interiors matte black and add some light seals.   
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Jan 14, 2021 12:31
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How are you going to focus it, ground glass on the back?
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Jan 14, 2021 20:50
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