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Took three tries and a ton of tweaking to get here Calibration cube in PET-G finally done.
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Jan 1, 2021 00:43
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It took some dialing in, leveling and fiddling around with various settings but I got my ender 5 pro working  Been making various inane, if functional items - pen holders, headphone mounts and so on and despite all of the extra tinkering required I really think I prefer it over SLA. I like tinkering anyway! The resin with SLA is a pain in the rear end, filling/cleaning it, rinsing and curing the prints, not to mention the generally higher price for resin compared to filament from what I've seen. I'm excited to try out different filaments and gonna investigate my options. I know there are filaments like glow in the dark that are abrasive and eat away at brass nozzles over time, and since I'm not in the mood for changing nozzles I'll avoid those.
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Jan 1, 2021 04:32
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Ok, I'm looking to get into this stuff. I think I want FDM over resin because I see myself making practical items more than miniatures, and I often like miniatures that are more stylised than hyper-detailed anyway. I'm interested in both the Ender 3 v2 and the cr10 v2. I like the larger print size of the cr10 because one use I have in mind is theatrical props, and the cr10 isn't that much more. Of course I also now see that there's the Ender 3 Max that has all the v2 upgrades, and is much closer in size to the cr10. But now I run across some comment on Reddit that says that if you take this form factor up to this scale, they've experienced stability issues and I just don't know any more! I'm experiencing a paralysis of options, and I don't really have people locally who can give me a look at their machines. I'm not even sure where to look to buy them, especially with shipping to Hawai'i. Amazon seems to have them for higher prices than a lot of places, but free shipping. Has anyone bought one from the Creality outlet on Aliexpress?
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Jan 1, 2021 05:48
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Telltolin posted:since I'm not in the mood for changing nozzles I'll avoid those. I used to think that too but changing nozzles is a 2 minute job and the scope of going from a 0.2mm for a pretty decorative job to a 0.8/1.0mm for a "fart out huge quantities real quick" job is a pretty big part of what makes a 3D printer so good.
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Jan 1, 2021 09:39
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Telltolin posted:It took some dialing in, leveling and fiddling around with various settings but I got my ender 5 pro working Cnckitchen did an investigation into how much nozzles are worn by abrasive filament. After 360g (so ~1/3 spool), glow in the dark had caused basically no wear, but carbon fiber impregnated was showing significant wear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ
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Jan 1, 2021 10:03
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cakesmith handyman posted:I used to think that too but changing nozzles is a 2 minute job and the scope of going from a 0.2mm for a pretty decorative job to a 0.8/1.0mm for a "fart out huge quantities real quick" job is a pretty big part of what makes a 3D printer so good. Oh my god, I was having trouble printing a tray for cleaning in IPA and I just realized from this post that I still have the printer setup for fine printing. I bet if I change the print quality and maybe even use a bigger nozzle it would work. Thanks for helping with something you didn't even realize you were helping with.
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Jan 1, 2021 16:04
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Currently printing loads of stuff in PETG on my stock ender 3 v2. After having loads of trouble getting it to stick on glass, tape, glue etc. my solution was: slow down PETG seems gooey and at high speeds it drags itself off the bed, especially when printing small features. I do my first layer at 5mm/s and then move up to 40mm/s. It makes little difference to the overall print time but a lot of difference to its chance of survival. I'm also printing on painter's masking tape now (green), but mainly just because I like the pattern it puts on the parts and having a sacrificial bed surface if I cock something up.
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Jan 1, 2021 16:47
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Thank you so much for posting this, it's such an awesome piece. It took 11 hours and 11 minutes to finish yesterday slowed down a bit, used some transparent that I had left over and it's the best thing I've printed so far.
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Jan 1, 2021 16:48
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I asked this but I don't know if I saw an answer, is the photon x as good as the photon? I'd like a large format resin, and I was looking at getting it and the wash cure station
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Jan 1, 2021 19:26
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Deviant posted:I asked this but I don't know if I saw an answer, is the photon x as good as the photon? I'd like a large format resin, and I was looking at getting it and the wash cure station Yes but get the mono screen version. The print quality is significantly better.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:32
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That's what I meant I think. "ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 3D Printer, UV LCD Resin 3D Printer with 8.9" 4K Monochrome LCD and WiFi Function, Large Build Volume 192mm(L) x120mm(W) x245mm(H)" Down to 750 on amazon plus 180 for the wash and cure.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:35
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https://www.anycubic.com/collections/sales/products/photon-mono-x-resin-printer?variant=35928504107170 If you're ok buying direct from anycubic you can save $50 and get a kg of resin as well.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:44
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There's a $150 coupon on amazon rn bringing it to 750. But whichever, I'll figure it out, I'm ok with direct too. What else do I need? Baking pan, and ???
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Jan 1, 2021 19:47
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Deviant posted:There's a $150 coupon on amazon rn bringing it to 750. But whichever, I'll figure it out, I'm ok with direct too. On paper, the bigger screen will give you slightly lesser detail, but in practice you won’t be able to tell the difference. Also get some air tight containers for storing used IPA, and something to dispense clean alcohol - the little pump bottles that nail salons use are great - you just put a towel over it and push down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GWT3R3T/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_T-27FbBCF0WAM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Don’t forget resin, and consider a wham bam plate.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:55
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Why would I keep used ipa?
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Jan 1, 2021 20:03
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You can reuse it for a very long time. Also if you dispensed enough alcohol to wash off the part and then dumped that down the drain every time you'd be spending probably a hundred times as much on alcohol as on resin. Since you are looking at the large format printers, you should buy yourself two one-gallon airtight containers and 8 litres of 99% IPA. Mark the containers 1 and 2. When your parts finish printing let them drip off for like an hour, then swoosh them around in tank 1 to get the resin off, then rinse in tank 2. Tank 1 will last a long time (basically until the solution turns completely opaque) and tank 2 will last forever if you don't let it evaporate. If you have one of the smaller printers you don't need two tanks. A single tank is fine because each print has like 0.5mL of liquid resin on it and you've got a gallon of alcohol to dilute it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 20:10
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Sagebrush posted:You can reuse it for a very long time. Also if you dispensed enough alcohol to wash off the part and then dumped that down the drain every time you'd be spending probably a hundred times as much on alcohol as on resin. I mean I was just gonna get the wash and cure station. Is this different?
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Jan 1, 2021 20:12
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The wash and cure station comes with one container which as noted is perfectly fine until you get into really high volume production. Buy a second container for clean alcohol if you start really cranking out the parts. Just don't pour out the alcohol after every print, cause that's a huge waste. 2L of 99% IPA will be good for hundreds of small prints. Oh and don't try to be cheap with alcohol by like blotting it onto the part or gently rinsing it with a eye dropper or something. Flushing the part by immersion is the only way to properly clean it.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:16
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Right, that makes sense then. Thanks.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:26
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Is there a reasonably easy way to hollow a model but leave the wall thicker in one part? I need the base to be maybe 2mm thick while the rest can be 0.5 or something. In my experience She'll in 3DS was slow and buggy so my best idea would be to hollow it in the slicer and then manually adjust the vertices in Max.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:34
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mobby_6kl posted:Is there a reasonably easy way to hollow a model but leave the wall thicker in one part? I need the base to be maybe 2mm thick while the rest can be 0.5 or something. In my experience She'll in 3DS was slow and buggy so my best idea would be to hollow it in the slicer and then manually adjust the vertices in Max. The slicer hollowing the model is a function of how it's translating the STL to gcode, I don't think it'll spit out a hollowed STL for you.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:38
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Can you just print it at 0% infill, and X walls and Y base layers, picking X and Y to get our desired results? Like 5 walls and 10 base layers or something.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:39
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Also, don't pour your water or ipa down the drain either. poo poo's toxic, just leave it in the sunlight to evaporate and toss the solid leftover in with the toxic garbage like batteries, etc
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Jan 1, 2021 21:40
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I really really like vase mode stuff. What’s the easiest way to start generating my own swirly swoopy vase shapes? Like I love this ornament I printed, but would like to control some parameters and the like. But this is the sort of thing I’d like to be generating: 
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Jan 1, 2021 22:46
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You can also cure the resin out of your IPA, let it settle for a few days, and then run it through a paper coffee filter. Let the filtered solids dry out and dispose of them appropriately. I've been using more or less the same container of recycled alcohol as my initial rinsing bath for... however long it's been since I got a resin printer, a little over a year now? Works like a champ.
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Jan 1, 2021 22:54
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What kind of timing should I be trying for washing and curing? Would there be any issues letting a print go overnight, hang out on the plate for a few hours, and washing/curing the next day?
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Jan 1, 2021 23:33
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I've left parts hanging on the build plate for a day or so with no issues. Just make sure that you leave it in the machine. If you take it out and don't immediately wash the part, ambient light will start to harden all the extra goo all over the part and ruin it.
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Jan 1, 2021 23:35
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Toebone posted:What kind of timing should I be trying for washing and curing? Would there be any issues letting a print go overnight, hang out on the plate for a few hours, and washing/curing the next day? I think the longest I've left a print hanging upside-down on a build plate (and still inside the printer) was something like four days, and had zero issues. Didn't fall off back into the vat or anything, and no problems removing or washing/curing it when I finally got around to it.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:18
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I think it's happened to a lot of us. Ever get busy and just forget that you did something? I switched off my Photon after it was done one evening, and finally remembered to remove the print about a week later. It was fine. I also had a stretch of ~3 months where I didn't even run the thing, and the vat full of resin that I left inside of it was perfectly usable after a good stir session.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:19
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I think the longest I've left a print hanging upside-down on a build plate (and still inside the printer) was something like four days, and had zero issues. Didn't fall off back into the vat or anything, and no problems removing or washing/curing it when I finally got around to it. Yeah, if anything the longer you leave it the less the resin left to cloud up your IPA. As far as how how long to wash, I pre-wash in a small container and then put it in the wash n cure station for a 6 minute wash. Seems to go counter to having a station, it boy howdy does it save on IPA in the long run. I basically never have to change the IPA in the wash n cure container, I just add a little more clean every two weeks or so. How long to cure DOES matter a lot. Not enough and it’s still tacky and toxic. Too much and it gets brittle, changes color, and you get layer separation. Leave a failed print in the sun for an afternoon and see what happens. It depends on the resin, ultimately. 99% of the resin will cure in 2-4 minutes. The phrozen non 4K aqua green I got needs like 12 minutes the shits insane how long it takes, but it’s not brittle and it doesn’t discolor. 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 00:28
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Right now I've been using the Elegoo water-washable gray. I've got a bottle of the regular elegoo resin too so I'll have to pick up some IPA or simple green eventually.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:52
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Bad Munki posted:I really really like vase mode stuff. What’s the easiest way to start generating my own swirly swoopy vase shapes? Easiest way? Fusion 360, draw a pattern, sweep tool with rotation. Best way? Rhino and Grasshopper. Infinite possibilities https://parametrichouse.com/rhino-grasshopper/ Alternate free way? OpenSCAD (retch)
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Jan 2, 2021 00:55
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Endjinneer posted:Currently printing loads of stuff in PETG on my stock ender 3 v2. After having loads of trouble getting it to stick on glass, tape, glue etc. my solution was: slow down Bumping up your initial temperature might let you get better first layer adhesion, too, but I wouldn't go anywhere near 240 on the stock tubing. I'm reasonably comfortable doing 240-245 on my Capricorn tubing for my initial layer in PETG and I don't seem to have any bed adhesion issues with first layer speeds between 15-20mm/sec. Slowing down almost always works, though. If you can stand the slower speeds then it's basically magic when it comes to adhesion.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:58
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Doctor Zero posted:Yes but get the mono screen version. The print quality is significantly better. Are mono screens actually a better print quality? I assumed it just gave much faster cure times
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Jan 2, 2021 01:29
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It's really dependant on the model and a few other factors but basically yea. The screens are supposed to last longer as well.
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Jan 2, 2021 05:36
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Monochrome screens arguably have a little better definition in them because they don't have the color filter layer or subpixels. That's a very subtle effect if it's there at all, though. The main advantage of the monochrome screen is that it will pass more light, which makes the printing dramatically faster (perhaps 2 seconds of exposure per layer vs 6-8). This also makes the screen last through many more prints, because it's spending less time baking in UV. Anycubic suggests that the mono screens last 4 times as long as the traditional ones. As for the raw definition, here is a print from my Photon Mono with a millimeter-scale ruler and a few bits of dust. The print is sharp enough to see every individual pixel (voxel, I suppose). They are not visible to the naked eye without magnification. 
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Jan 2, 2021 05:50
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The difference in screen life is pretty significant with monochrome screens, right? I get relatively good results on miniatures with my FDM printer, but cheap resin printers have gotten so cheap that I've been thinking about grabbing one explicitly for that purpose. It was mostly screen replacements costs keeping me away.
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Jan 2, 2021 06:55
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As noted, Anycubic claims 4x the screen life, 2000 hours vs 500. That sounds like a year of printing at 40 hours per week, which is already a lot, but it's actually much more than that because print time is not screen-on time. A 3 hour jewelry piece sized print might have 1200 layers in it, each one 2 seconds long. 2400 seconds is only 40 minutes, so from your 2000 hours you actually get 3000 small 3-hour prints. Most people are not going to print that much. They don't sell replacement screens for the Monos yet, at least not on their website, but replacements for the older Photons are like 60 bucks. It's not that big a cost amortized across enough parts to actually wear out the screen. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 07:01
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That's pretty. In my land, I'm back to "gently caress ULTEM". i cannot get that poo poo to stick. I now have a sheet of 468MP and a 1/16" piece of ULTEM 1000 for a bed surface to try. I couldn't use the cheaper 467MP because the bed gets too hot 
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Jan 2, 2021 07:05
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:45 |
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Has anyone has heard of or tried exposing UV photosensitive resist for etching PCBs with the UV+screen of one of these SLA printers, ideally without doing anything irreversible to the printer?
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Jan 2, 2021 07:40
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