|
I upgraded my internet and my current combo router/wifi thing is bad now! I need one for 400 megabits. Was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG7400AC2-Internet-Protection/dp/B0764N2QLF?ref_=ast_sto_dp An ARRIS SURFboard SBG7400AC2. Have a desktop hard wired in, then two tvs and two phones.
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 00:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Triikan posted:A Ubiquiti Dream Machine would render my Edgerouter X completely unnecessary, right? Yes. You wouldn’t need the ER-X as the UDM would be the router.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 01:33
|
|
|
Oysters Autobio posted:QOS is not enabled. Should it be? If you need QoS, you’ll know it. It’ll allow you to do things like optimizing for media streaming or gaming. That said, it’s typically overkill on home networks and it generally will produce slower speeds. If the adapter says gigabit then it should be negotiating at that rate. Sadly I don’t know much about the router you linked so I can’t say if the WAN-to-LAN perf is somehow deficient. That translation can be unexpectedly costly on cheaper routers. Most can usually do at least 500mbps WAN-to-LAN. Other things to try might be: - swap some more cables around - try another test machine Sadly I’m somewhat at a loss. The speeds you’re trying to achieve should be pretty easily hit by most any router.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 01:37
|
|
|
Looks like by upgrading my Moca adapter I’m now getting 400 mbps or so via WI-FI on my network. From reading, seems like this is about as fast as the unity ac lite and ac lr will get due to overhead? Is that because they’re limited to 2x2? Do I need to upgrade to something with a 3x3 or 4x4 to go higher?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 02:56
|
|
|
Residency Evil posted:Looks like by upgrading my Moca adapter I’m now getting 400 mbps or so via WI-FI on my network. From reading, seems like this is about as fast as the unity ac lite and ac lr will get due to overhead? Is that because they’re limited to 2x2? Do I need to upgrade to something with a 3x3 or 4x4 to go higher? Honestly, you won’t practically get much higher than 450mbps, partly because many devices don’t have the radios to take advantage of more than 2x2. Even if they do, there’s walls and poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 02:58
|
|
|
Penpal posted:How do I solve what seems to be bad peering from my server to the clients? Server ISP is Bell with fibre gig up, and I (client) have Rogers gig down. Everything is wired. Server is gigabit wired directly to Home Hub 3000 modem/router, clients are all wired to Asus RT-AX58U with gigabit. You're basically screwed. Bell and Rogers are direct competitors, so they have no real love of each other. Basically what means for you is that they run their peering at full capacity at times. Also, since you are in Newfoundland, all the peering happens in Toronto so data has to do the cross country trek and back again for high latency. Rogers and bell will give you the speeds that you bought on your local circuit, but does not guarantee beyond that. And unfortunately peering capacity is a business decision, not a customer satisfaction decision.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 03:35
|
|
|
Is there some user guide to Ubiquiti/Unifi's software that I might want to peruse before setting up my network? I'm not a complete newbie to networking stuff, but it's been ~8 years since I passed my Network+ certification, and in the meantime I haven't done much advanced stuff with my consumer-grade routers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 03:35
|
|
|
skylined! posted:Thanks - my router and network switch are in the closet with the blue box in the stairwell in this picture. Ethernet drops are the blue X's. Adding an AP to the bedroom you're having signal issues in would be a good start. Oysters Autobio posted:Hi, just bumping this one because I didn't include a few important details: That's bizarre. What link speed does the PC report while connected to the new router? Triikan posted:A Ubiquiti Dream Machine would render my Edgerouter X completely unnecessary, right? You could retool it as a 5-port managed switch.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 03:36
|
|
|
Ubiquiti still doesn't seem to have this firmware thing figured out. The wifi has been dropping out on my Pixel 2, and only that device, recently and it eventually went over my annoyance threshold. Remembered that I had updated my UAP-AC-IW to 4.3.24 a bit before Christmas, which lines up in time to when it started. Read through the release notes, and attached user comments and initial impressions seemed ok but then lots of reports of failed DHCP requiring power cycles, and wifi dropping on both Android and iOS devices. Calls for Ubiquiti to pull the firmware were ignored. Last "stable" release was noted to be 4 releases earlier, 4.0.80, which was what I was running before the update. The network is solid when it's on "stable" firmware, but I'm having a hard time deciding whether it's my fault for updating a system that works, or theirs for frequently putting out bad releases. Who else makes solid consumer/prosumer APs and switches?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 04:02
|
|
|
unknown posted:You're basically screwed. Bell and Rogers are direct competitors, so they have no real love of each other. Basically what means for you is that they run their peering at full capacity at times. What are some solutions? I am going to try and petition the condo board to switch internet providers for the entire building. Is there a decent value paid service I could use?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 04:51
|
|
|
spoof posted:The network is solid when it's on "stable" firmware, but I'm having a hard time deciding whether it's my fault for updating a system that works, or theirs for frequently putting out bad releases. ¿Por que no los dos? Penpal posted:What are some solutions? I am going to try and petition the condo board to switch internet providers for the entire building. You're going to need to come up with a better story than my  don't work here. Otherwise you can see about commercial internet which might get you more leverage. But you would want to call a real carrier not bell or Roger's. See if there is fiber that runs through the street at your condo but otherwise just give up. Residential to residential is not what those carriers have built their networks to handle.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 16:03
|
|
|
I've recently upgraded my internet and want to add wifi to my main PC. I've done this with a little USB dongle as a stop gap, but I would like to get a better one or (ideally?) a PCIe card that is capable of using the entire available bandwidth (the cheap dongle from Meijer only does ~50Mbps). Browsing through Newegg, TP Link and Asus seem like the big brands? Is there a difference between these or are adapters all the same parts with different branding and it doesn't matter? https://www.newegg.com/asus-pce-ax3000-pci-express/p/N82E16833320448 https://www.newegg.com/tp-link-archer-tx3000e-pci-express/p/N82E16833704507
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 16:59
|
|
|
Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:I've recently upgraded my internet and want to add wifi to my main PC. I've done this with a little USB dongle as a stop gap, but I would like to get a better one or (ideally?) a PCIe card that is capable of using the entire available bandwidth (the cheap dongle from Meijer only does ~50Mbps). I think you'll want something similar to the 2nd link there, where it has an antenna you can relocate. I can't speak to the quality or brands though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 17:17
|
|
|
Penpal posted:What are some solutions? I am going to try and petition the condo board to switch internet providers for the entire building. H110Hawk posted:You're going to need to come up with a better story than my Hawk is on the ball - search for other providers in the city that provide their own infrastructure - of which there probably isn't anyone. If you're lucky, maybe Bell is willing to do the retrofit for fiber. As a heads up: you can find the same issue that you did before, since peering is a business decision, not a customer experience decision.. But that being said, if there's a resale available for your cable connection (eg: Teksavvy) at the speed you want, give it a try? Those generally backhaul to that provider/reseller's network so you might go through a different peering point. But you're rolling the dice - it might be better, but it might also be worse, and hopefully you're not in a new contract. Also, as someone in the biz: Bell/Rogers generally doesn't do peering - they require everyone to purchase the bandwidth from them, so no one really peers with Bell, as their pricing is horrid, so it's cheaper to go via a 3rd party.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 17:25
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies, everyone. So even if I had Bell here, I wouldn't be guaranteed a decent connection? I might try my sister's apartment, still in town but they have Bell internet. Should I try a... seedbox? I'm actually not sure what my options are in this scenario. I thought I had the perfect setup but it seems like I might just be moving the server back to my apartment.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 17:44
|
|
|
unknown posted:Also, as someone in the biz: Bell/Rogers generally doesn't do peering - they require everyone to purchase the bandwidth from them, so no one really peers with Bell, as their pricing is horrid, so it's cheaper to go via a 3rd party. As someone also in the biz, it's amazing what the last mile carriers get away with as far as public internet access goes. I don't blame them for having a poo poo interconnection model to the other last mile carriers, why would they no one has a legitimate use for it in general, but it makes me want to scream trying to get hooked up. Comcast ironically had a decent model in the USA except it just turned off randomly so you had to keep a bunch of extra bandwidth around to handle those surges when they rebooted both sides of your peering connection. Something under a buck a mbps 15 years ago on 10g ports, or you could pay around a buck a mbps and get full transit routes out of them. If you want some gory details on how much of an uphill battle you have, read this article with the USA's very own Bell/Rogers: https://www.techdirt.com/articles/2...-own-data.shtml
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 18:28
|
|
|
Penpal posted:Thanks for the replies, everyone. You'd have to have your seedbox, Plex server, and storage in the cloud. You don't need the horsepower to have Plex transcode if your devices can all do Direct Play / Direct Stream. If you needed transcoding, you can rent VMs that have GPUs. It's just that what we're talking about here starts to cost a good amount of money real quick. You could try to rent some space at a colo that has a better internet set up, but again, it's going to cost $$$.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 18:32
|
|
|
Internet Explorer posted:You'd have to have your seedbox, Plex server, and storage in my butt. You don't need the horsepower to have Plex transcode if your devices can all do Direct Play / Direct Stream. If you needed transcoding, you can rent VMs that have GPUs. It's just that what we're talking about here starts to cost a good amount of money real quick. You could try to rent some space at a colo that has a better internet set up, but again, it's going to cost $$$. I'm doing a MiniPC co-lo at EndOffice — not super expensive, and you can do a pretty good build in something like an ASRock DeskMini. I posted a bit about it in the Packrats thread, but basically I threw in a spare/used Comet Lake i7, 64 GB of RAM, ESXi and 2x 7.68 TB SATA SSDs. Plenty of storage, bandwidth and processing power to do everything needed in a colo. Running pfSense,, TrueNAS and Fedora as VMs, and thinking I'll use WireGuard for a site-to-site VPN between my home (EdgeRouter 4) and that box.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 19:16
|
|
|
That's pretty cool. Just out of curiosity, about how much are you paying for that much space and a gigabit internet connection?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
movax posted:I'm doing a MiniPC co-lo at EndOffice — not super expensive, and you can do a pretty good build in something like an ASRock DeskMini. I posted a bit about it in the Packrats thread, but basically I threw in a spare/used Comet Lake i7, 64 GB of RAM, ESXi and 2x 7.68 TB SATA SSDs. Plenty of storage, bandwidth and processing power to do everything needed in a colo. Never heard of a MiniPC co-lo! That is pretty cool. I wish one was available on the west coast!
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 19:23
|
|
|
Internet Explorer posted:That's pretty cool. Just out of curiosity, about how much are you paying for that much space and a gigabit internet connection? fletcher posted:Never heard of a MiniPC co-lo! That is pretty cool. I wish one was available on the west coast! I was inspired by Jeff Atwood's post here: https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-cloud-is-just-someone-elses-computer/ The colo place is this: https://www.endoffice.com/minicolo.html It's "only" 100 Mbps, but I think that will be fine for my needs (seedbox, my own fully controlled offsite backup, etc.). They are very chill — IIRC you can even just mail them a QNAP or something if you want and they'll plug it in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 19:28
|
|
|
Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:I've recently upgraded my internet and want to add wifi to my main PC. I've done this with a little USB dongle as a stop gap, but I would like to get a better one or (ideally?) a PCIe card that is capable of using the entire available bandwidth (the cheap dongle from Meijer only does ~50Mbps). I used one of these in my desktop for a long time and it worked great: ASUS PCE-AC68 Dual-Band 3x3 AC1900 WiFi PCIe Adapter with Heat Sink and External Magnetic Antenna Base Allows Flexible Antenna Placement to Maximize Coverage https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ It easily sustained 400+ mbps through walls.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 19:57
|
|
|
Penpal posted:Thanks for the replies, everyone. You could get a $5/mo VPS and set up a VPN with it in the middle if it has sufficient bandwidth to both homes. It should not need significant RAM or CPU for this.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 22:21
|
|
|
Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:I've recently upgraded my internet and want to add wifi to my main PC. I've done this with a little USB dongle as a stop gap, but I would like to get a better one or (ideally?) a PCIe card that is capable of using the entire available bandwidth (the cheap dongle from Meijer only does ~50Mbps). The actual wireless chips used can vary, and depending on your uses can be more or less hassle. I went with a previous generation ASUS card (overpriced listing for it here: https://www.newegg.com/asus-pce-ac55bt-b1-pci-express/p/N82E16833320333) that seems comparable to the first card you posted. It's essentially an Intel wifi/Bluetooth mini-PCIe card on PCIe 1x adapter, and it has worked great. If you only run Windows you can probably afford to not care as much about the actual wireless chip involved, but since I run both Windows and Linux it mattered to me. I can say the Intel wifi and Bluetooth has worked great and is better than any of the USB solutions I've used.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 22:39
|
|
|
Question(s) on setting up "local DNS", and some statements from me, mostly posted so I can be corrected if I'm wrong. I know a decent amount of networking, but want to get better at the DNS part of things especially because mDNS / Bonjour / etc confuse me a bit, and some of my historical experience turned out to be leaning on NetBIOS or someshit. So, my setup, at my home: * EdgeRouter 4 as the router / DNS server, with NextDNS daemon running * NextDNS as my primary / WAN DNS provider * Couple different VLANs I own a few domain names through Namecheap, and would like to actually start using them as my domain suffixes internally, rather than .local or .localdomain, which I've read conflicting posts of "you'll be fine" vs. "There is a 0.5% chance IETF will actually assign it and your house will burn down because you picked .local". So, what I think I need to do at a high-level: * Make up the (sub)domain I want to use, i.e., home.wa.butt.org, home.mi.butt.org * Assign records and names — so my Living Room Apple TV advertises itself via mDNS/Bonjour/something as "Living-Room", because I've named it as such. I could choose to create a record "living-room-atv.home.wa.butt.org" and assign to 172.16.69.69 * My DHCP server then needs to be told (via MAC address definition... and I'm not sure what to do about things that have both Wired and Wireless NICs) what IP to assign, with the appropriate domain (home.wa.butt.org) I'm pretty sure you don't want your private IPs advertised to the public at large, i.e., I shouldn't go to Namecheap and put in A records with private IPs in there. So, I think what I need to do is: 1. Create those domain records on Namecheap with some kind of placeholder, to at least remind myself that they exist. (Or, if not possible, write down in my OneNote that I did this so I don't forget) 2. Figure out how to configure my local NextDNS daemon running on the EdgeRouter to respond to certain queries (i.e., *.home.wa.butt.org) with a different list (This is putting the records on Edgerouter basically), but send the rest off to NextDNS 3. Figure out how to not duplicate the above with static DHCP leases in an ideal world, otherwise, define the DHCP leases statically to match the above and set the DHCP domain to home.wa.butt.org 4. Cross fingers and hope everything just works? movax fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jan 4, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 22:50
|
|
|
I can't really speak to mDNS/Bonjour or your specific plans with living-room.* , but I think you're mostly on the right track with a few nudges. You'll want something that can act as a local DNS server. I'm not sure if NextDNS supports it, but for example PiHole does. Another option is to use a DNS server like BIND and set up your NextDNS server as a conditional forwarder. So devices would look at BIND, then if it can't find it, look at NextDNS. I'd actually be surprised if NextDNS didn't already support local DNS entries, but from a very quick glance it looks like it doesn't. You can use DHCP to point your clients to this new DNS server and it should allow automatic updates via DHCP. If you want static devices, I would try to use reservations and that should continue to allow devices to manage their own DNS. If you use static IPs, you'll need to configure your internal A records and PTR records manually. I would strongly recommend against using .local. Have your public DNS be movax.org or whatever, and internal be internal.movax.org or something. That's the best practice these days. You definitely don't want to put private IPs in your Public DNS. Depending on your DNS provider, they may not allow it and if you ever want to do SSL/TLS certs it will be a pain. Just a quick brain dump while I should be working. Hopefully that wasn't too all over the place and I hit the high notes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 23:09
|
|
|
Internet Explorer posted:I can't really speak to mDNS/Bonjour or your specific plans with living-room.* , but I think you're mostly on the right track with a few nudges. Yep — I do own movax.org actually so I might just use that, definitely want to get away from .local! I totally forgot about the SSL/TLS certs — that's actually what got me down this road because I'm tired of clicking the button in Chrome to accept (I guess you only have to do it once) and want to learn how to do it "right" without force-installing self-signed certs on every computer I have. As I understand it, I need to get my DNS shaped up so unifi.internal.movax.org actually maps to say 172.16.1.20 on my local network, is not advertised publicly, and that the domain name actually works so the SSL certificate works correctly. I no longer have any static devices now I think (yay) and do everything with static DHCP leases, yep. I noticed that when I do 'nextdns discovered' on my EdgeRouter, which shows "Discovered clients", which I assume means NextDNS looking at the hostnames of devices making the queries and logging them, it's got a lot of the default device hostnames there, e.g. "netatmo.local" or "mysa-cb4d60.local" there. I guess I never realized that "hostname" is a loaded term and could theoretically come from a lot of different places. God help me if somehow the aliases I define in the UniFi Controller are making their way to this list somehow. I just remembered another question though... some things, like ESXi, actually "gets" its hostname from somewhere, I assume DHCP? I wonder if when I set a DHCP static lease in EdgeRouter, the "Id" field is what ends up in Option 12, and the host takes its name from that? Likewise, for UniFi, I believe I need to actually set its controller name to match the domain / hostname I assign it. For NextDNS, it seems like something like this thread will do it: https://community.ui.com/questions/NextDNS-with-keeping-Dnsmasq-on-EdgeRouter/3141381a-ea95-47c2-aa30-2715560a333b — dnsmasq is the forwarder that Ubiquiti runs, so maybe that's what I need sitting to forward some requests (e.g., WAN) to NextDNS and then local requests to the local daemon, be it another BIND instance, or dnsmasq's built-in support for that. movax fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jan 4, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 23:21
|
|
|
movax posted:Yep — I do own movax.org actually so I might just use that, definitely want to get away from .local! I totally forgot about the SSL/TLS certs — that's actually what got me down this road because I'm tired of clicking the button in Chrome to accept (I guess you only have to do it once) and want to learn how to do it "right" without force-installing self-signed certs on every computer I have. As I understand it, I need to get my DNS shaped up so unifi.internal.movax.org actually maps to say 172.16.1.20 on my local network, is not advertised publicly, and that the domain name actually works so the SSL certificate works correctly. So one thing to keep in mind is that only things with public IPs can get SSL certs from the CAs, even LetsEncrypt. It used to be that you could get certs for internal IPs, but that changed years ago. I believe there are ways to get around this, but in my world we'd just run our own enterprise CA, so take this with a grain of salt. I believe you'd be able to do split-brain DNS for your internal DNS zone and use DNS updates with LetsEncrypt to renew a wildcard cert and then install that wildcard cert on your devices, but you'd have to have some way of automating the entire thing, otherwise you'd be doing it by hand every 90 days. I'm also not a fan of wildcard certs, but that's a conversation for a different day. The "right" way of doing this from my point of view is standing up your own CA, but I honestly have no idea how you'd do that on a home network mostly running Linux. It's a pain enough in Windows with a domain, let alone a workgroup. I'm curious to hearwhat others have to say. movax posted:I no longer have any static devices now I think (yay) and do everything with static DHCP leases, yep. I noticed that when I do 'nextdns discovered' on my EdgeRouter, which shows "Discovered clients", which I assume means NextDNS looking at the hostnames of devices making the queries and logging them, it's got a lot of the default device hostnames there, e.g. "netatmo.local" or "mysa-cb4d60.local" there. I guess I never realized that "hostname" is a loaded term and could theoretically come from a lot of different places. God help me if somehow the aliases I define in the UniFi Controller are making their way to this list somehow. Yeah, hostname can come from a lot of places these days. Helps with automatic provisioning. Can be defined on the device, in DHCP Option 12 like you're seeing. The UniFi controller will definitely set its own name, helps with WAP discovery. I don't _think_ your aliases you are defining in the UniFi Controller are making their way to that list, just because I don't think EdgeRouter and Unifi talk at that level. I do _think_ it works that way if you're running Unifi and USG. movax posted:For NextDNS, it seems like something like this thread will do it: https://community.ui.com/questions/NextDNS-with-keeping-Dnsmasq-on-EdgeRouter/3141381a-ea95-47c2-aa30-2715560a333b — dnsmasq is the forwarder that Ubiquiti runs, so maybe that's what I need sitting to forward some requests (e.g., WAN) to NextDNS and then local requests to the local daemon, be it another BIND instance, or dnsmasq's built-in support for that. Yes, I think that should work. I will tell you that all of this is a bit of a pain in the rear end. I know you like tinkering, so don't let me dissuade you, but I will tell you I do no such config on my home network. I'll mash that "not secure" button on my browser all day.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2021 23:58
|
|
|
Internet Explorer posted:So one thing to keep in mind is that only things with public IPs can get SSL certs from the CAs, even LetsEncrypt. You can validate using TXT records; it doesn't require a public IP, nor does it have to be publicly-accessible: https://letsencrypt.org/docs/challenge-types/#dns-01-challenge acme.sh supports this and is included in many things, or otherwise easy to set up.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 00:44
|
|
|
astral posted:You can validate using TXT records; it doesn't require a public IP, nor does it have to be publicly-accessible: Thanks for the correction, much appreciated. I remember reading about that use case but for some reason though it wasn't quite that simple for the same reason that CAs stopped issuing certs for private IPs.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 01:09
|
|
|
rufius posted:Honestly, you won’t practically get much higher than 450mbps, partly because many devices don’t have the radios to take advantage of more than 2x2. That’a helpful, thanks. Would there be a benefit to 3x3 or 4x4 if there are multiple devices connected? I’m assuming not, because the ubiquiti stuff is probably overkill for a home.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 13:40
|
|
|
Residency Evil posted:I’m assuming not, because the ubiquiti stuff is probably overkill for a home. Depends how you define overkill. Sure it's OTT for a grandma with a Kindle, but if you have the cables in place and can get drops in the walls or ceilings, it's the way to go.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 14:57
|
|
|
Rooted Vegetable posted:Depends how you define overkill. Sure it's OTT for a grandma with a Kindle, but if you have the cables in place and can get drops in the walls or ceilings, it's the way to go. By overkill I mean that almost any access point is probably going to be ok with the <20 devices a typical household uses, that are just browsing the internet 99% of the time. I'm curious whether a 3x3 or 4x4 AP would be better in case, say, I wanted to run two simultaneous speed tests on two wireless devices. Presumably there'd be no real world difference with only slightly moderately stressful activity like streaming HD video.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 17:46
|
|
|
Internet Explorer posted:I will tell you that all of this is a bit of a pain in the rear end. I know you like tinkering, so don't let me dissuade you, but I will tell you I do no such config on my home network. I'll mash that "not secure" button on my browser all day. Hah thanks — 100% chance I'll post here in a few days saying "you know what, installing a self-signed certificate on a few of my machines is actually NOT that much work...". I've been meaning to "redo" my easyRSA / PKI setup anyways, as right now, I've lazily left it on my EdgeRouter, and that's horrible. Maybe some kind of fun little RPi in a safe deposit box, or containerized thing I store on a SD Card... so many ways to overkill that problem. New hopefully quick question — I have a giant spool of solid core, riser-rated Cat6A I use for all my in-wall runs to jacks and such. I also have a box of Monoprice Cat6 stranded for patches that I swear to god ends up being the hardest loving thing in the world to crimp compared to Cat5e I usually use, but that's probably because of the wire gauge. Anyways — I want to mount some cameras outside (UniFi G3/G4s) and I plan to use the riser-rated solid core for the run — arguably, it'll only pass thru a wall once but I want to use the right poo poo for the job. My question is... I have read that generally, people do not want to crimp RJ-45s onto solid-core cable. The cameras have a RJ-45 jack in them. What do people generally do here? Do they put a junction box up, and terminate the solid core in a keystone, and let it flop around in there? I have some surface mount boxes, but for these outdoor ones, and especially considering how the cameras are mounted, I feel like I'd have to cut a big hole, put that box inside the ceiling / structure, and then have a little patch cable down to the camera. Or, is it actually, you can crimp a RJ-45 plug onto solid-core cable, so long as it is not intended to move/flex a lot, compared to traditional patch cables, and I should just do that? Residency Evil posted:By overkill I mean that almost any access point is probably going to be ok with the <20 devices a typical household uses, that are just browsing the internet 99% of the time. I mostly like the UniFi stuff because it's relatively cheap, and I like tinkering, and it makes it so easy to tinker because of all the apps and dashboards in your face. I limit it to switches and APs though — I've grown to like the EdgeRouter 4 even more for routing lately, spending more time with its CLI... once you learn it, it's quite painless. movax fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jan 5, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 20:32
|
|
|
movax posted:New hopefully quick question — I have a giant spool of solid core, riser-rated Cat6A I use for all my in-wall runs to jacks and such. I also have a box of Monoprice Cat6 stranded for patches that I swear to god ends up being the hardest loving thing in the world to crimp compared to Cat5e I usually use, but that's probably because of the wire gauge. For my cameras (and other cables in my house that aren't being plugged/unplugged constantly (runs from wall jacks to stationary devices) - I just crimp straight on the solid core. Haven't had any problems  My cameras are directly mounted to the soffits they hang from, with just a small hole under them to pass the cable through. I crimped the RJ45 on after fishing the cable through.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2021 20:38
|
|
|
movax posted:I mostly like the UniFi stuff because it's relatively cheap, and I like tinkering, and it makes it so easy to tinker because of all the apps and dashboards in your face. I limit it to switches and APs though — I've grown to like the EdgeRouter 4 even more for routing lately, spending more time with its CLI... once you learn it, it's quite painless. Yeah, it's fine, although I've realized that it's probably at the limit of what I want to deal with when I get home from work. The appeal is to have a wireless network at home that's rock solid and doesn't require me to tinker or try to figure out why my connection is dropping. My network going down because "Uplink Connectivity Monitor" and "Auto-optimize Network" are turned on is just not what I want to spend my time figuring out. At least for me, the point of having a wireless network is to have it work, not to have something to try to get to work.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2021 01:11
|
|
|
I have a home network that basically looks like: Cable modem -> AirPort Express -> switch -> switch -> switch -> switch where I have various devices hanging off the various switches. (all switches are unmanaged and 5 ports) The topology is a little awkward, but it's an old house with no ethernet in the walls, except for an apparently retrofitted connection from the living room to another room where the ethernet cable runs along the outside wall (!). It's a bit of a pain to have individual power sources for each switch, as I sometimes do electrical work, so when I turn off a breaker I sometimes forget that that'll disconnect some devices from the network. So I'm looking into running PoE. Ideally, it'd look something like this: Cable modem -> AirPort Express -> plugged-in switch providing PoE -> switch with passthrough PoE -> switch with passthrough PoE -> switch Looks like Netgear has a 5-port unmanaged PoE switch so that can be the first switch, and I found this "PoE extender" which can serve as the other switches. But I'm all pretty new to this, so I have a few questions: 1) Is this even a good idea? Is daisy-chaining PoE sketchy/bad? 2) Are there any safety concerns with PoE on ethernet cables that are outside? I'm guessing maybe not, since one use case for PoE is for outdoor cameras and such... 3) Are there any better unmanaged switches with PoE passthrough than the "PoE extender" I found? It seems like most PoE switches are managed, which I'm hoping to avoid...
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2021 02:15
|
|
|
Does this MU-MIMO stuff have any effect on wired (via MOCA) connections on a wifi router or is it strictly a wireless thing? I've got anywhere from 10-20 devices on the router at a time and I think it's getting congested and causing a lot of latency? Or lag? When people are browsing/streaming/gaming all the same time. Lot of complaints about rubber banding and online games playing catch-up after 20-30 seconds. I think this Archer C5 I have is starting to give up the ghost when it comes to serving my household and I'm looking at new routers. Specifically the TP-Link AX20 vs the AX50.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2021 20:40
|
|
|
I have brand new gigabit internet at home. It's great and works perfectly *except* for downloading from WeTransfer.com - which is our company's preferred file transfer site. No matter the browser, on files over 100 megs, I'll get a "Failed - Network Error" after a few seconds. No other browsing problems and multi-gig downloads from elsewhere seem to work just fine. It's just WeTransfer. I haven't been able to test a wired connection - currently I'm on my wifi which is handled through the Plume superpods that came with my service. Again though, large downloads seem to work fine from various "random file download tester" sites. The Plume app is nice but doesn't really let me get granular with my traffic monitoring. What would be the best way for me to get some detailed analysis about what is happening with this download? I don't know if the traffic is dropping or what. I have a call in to tech support and their team will get back to me tomorrow. Windows 10.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 03:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
BonoMan posted:No matter the browser, on files over 100 megs, I'll get a "Failed - Network Error" after a few seconds. Do you have a non-split-tunnel VPN you can use? One that routes everything through it. Either corporate or something like nordvpn (do something close to you.) Test by going to here: http://whatismyip.akamai.com/ , then connecting to your vpn and reloading. I bet your problem vanishes. If it doesn't, you have something else strange going on, if it does, tell tech support that. Need another file to test? Use this: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO it's 5.7GB and you can try again all you want. See if it cuts out at a specific byte or a specific time. Either way, from here I would wait on corp tech support to help you out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 05:28
|
|