|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tll5SSX5a6E
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2021 22:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 03:04 |
|
|
Just moved from Chicago to Portland with our new to us alltrack packed to the gills and we still love it! I assume I’ll be cursing it soon enough though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2021 02:53
|
|
|
I've been seriously considering getting an Alltrack, but I know I would immediately regret selling my R32 (which I would do).
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2021 23:52
|
|
|
its good, especially chipped, but yeah it would not replace an R32 in terms of personal attachment or fun
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 15:57
|
|
|
So 2021 is apparently the last year for the Mk7 GTIs in North America, and they brought back cornflower blue that was only on the Rabbit. Hhhmm...
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
2007 MK5 GTI (FSI), getting that MAF code on and off, I have Torque and Carista and want to check the actual sensor output from the MAF/O2 sensor to see if it's that or the upstream O2 or an air leak or ??? causing this code. Is there a good reference anywhere for what the MAF/O2 sensor feedback should look like so I have something to compare to? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 18:18
|
|
|
I kept getting those and it ended up being the wiring being broken. Not sure if it was wear or if a rodent got at it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 18:20
|
|
|
Same here take the black wire loom off and see if any wires are broken. I just soldered it back together with some heat shrink over it and it's been fine ever since.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 18:32
|
|
|
Thanks, I've seen something online about breaks in the wire where it is loomed over that extra inlet pipe that goes to the firewall. I popped it out to take a quick look and didn't see any obvious issue but is that where you guys noticed the problem? I can take a closer look/check continuity. Realistically that should look like dropped signal from the sensor I think also so I should be able to see it from inside the car with Torque.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 18:35
|
|
|
Sorry, I had the shop do it cause I wasn't sure of the cause and couldn't see where the wire went.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 18:52
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:2007 MK5 GTI (FSI), getting that MAF code on and off, I have Torque and Carista and want to check the actual sensor output from the MAF/O2 sensor to see if it's that or the upstream O2 or an air leak or ??? causing this code. Is there a good reference anywhere for what the MAF/O2 sensor feedback should look like so I have something to compare to? Thanks. What is the actual Pcode? I can tell you pretty quick if it's the MAF or the o2 based on that most likely.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 19:37
|
|
|
movax posted:Alright, I finally got around to finding my VAG-COM adapter and well.... I'm not super happy about the pile of poo poo that I think could be wrong with my A4 now. Especially irritating considering I've maintained it responsibly and since early 2018, I have driven less than 10,000 miles per year. I got the timing belt done pre-emptively in 2016 around 90,000 miles and everything. At least now, compared to my earlier and younger posts in this thread, I own a home, have a garage and an alternate means of transportation (motorcycle and/or GF's car) so I can be pretty patient in trying to fix stuff instead of panicking and working from Friday night through the weekend to be ready to drive Monday morning. I didn't get a chance to attack this over the holidays, but have some time coming up — any pointers to guide / docs on what to pull out to take a look at the belt / tensioner?
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 19:55
|
|
|
Mine was broken about half way between the connector and the firewall. I want to say it was a tan wire. The other 2 wires looked fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 20:05
|
|
|
Thumposaurus posted:Mine was broken about half way between the connector and the firewall. Suburban Dad posted:What is the actual Pcode? I can tell you pretty quick if it's the MAF or the o2 based on that most likely. Thanks to both posters. I'll check the code when it comes back but I want to say it's that default OBD2 P0100 or w/e MAF code.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2021 20:23
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:What is the actual Pcode? I can tell you pretty quick if it's the MAF or the o2 based on that most likely. Came back today, P0100.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2021 03:36
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:Came back today, P0100. Recheck the wiring to the sensor, maybe find a wiring diagram and a multimeter and check and see if you can find where it connects to the ECM. Easiest way to do this (assuming you have a wiring pinout) is to check resistance between the ECM pin to the corresponding pin on the MAF connector. Assuming it's the same wire, if you find infinite resistance you have a break somewhere along the wire or connection in between. Could be that or the sensor itself being dead but I figure you'd get a ton more codes since usually the MAF contains multiple other sensors within (temp, baro, etc.). If you can use one of those apps you have to get MAF readings (might also look for baro and inlet air temp/IAT to confirm they're working), what do they say? A value at idle somewhere in the range of 2-15ish g/s (cold start will be slightly higher due to higher idle speed, also depends on engine size so could be slightly higher -assuming a 1.8 or 2.0L turbo?) suggests it's probably working, otherwise it might be reading something wonky if the sensor/wiring is bad. If I had to bet, it's not a power or ground wire, but one of the signal wires that's broken somewhere. Granted my experience is not really with VWs but that one seems pretty cut and dry since it suggests "MAF circuit." I would not look into the o2 sensor at all seeing that code. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jan 9, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2021 04:44
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Recheck the wiring to the sensor, maybe find a wiring diagram and a multimeter and check and see if you can find where it connects to the ECM. Easiest way to do this (assuming you have a wiring pinout) is to check resistance between the ECM pin to the corresponding pin on the MAF connector. Assuming it's the same wire, if you find infinite resistance you have a break somewhere along the wire or connection in between. Could be that or the sensor itself being dead but I figure you'd get a ton more codes since usually the MAF contains multiple other sensors within (temp, baro, etc.). If you can use one of those apps you have to get MAF readings (might also look for baro and inlet air temp/IAT to confirm they're working), what do they say? A value at idle somewhere in the range of 2-15ish g/s (cold start will be slightly higher due to higher idle speed, also depends on engine size so could be slightly higher -assuming a 1.8 or 2.0L turbo?) suggests it's probably working, otherwise it might be reading something wonky if the sensor/wiring is bad. If I had to bet, it's not a power or ground wire, but one of the signal wires that's broken somewhere. Thanks, yeah that's mostly what I was thinking. I'll log the MAF sensor data on the way home from work in 11 hours and will take a look to see if something looks off. I think there's only 3 or 4 wires going to the MAF (Power, ground, signal, ???) so I can pretty easily just check them for resistance also if the data looks okay.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2021 05:19
|
|
|
Anyone have a guide on bypassing the Audi MMI sim card and tethering to an iPhone for the car wifi network? The internet seems to think it's do-able. Some places seem to say using OBD11, some seem to suggest you don't need that. Anyone know the real deal? Edit: MIB 2 Murgos fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jan 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2021 20:40
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:its good, especially chipped, but yeah it would not replace an R32 in terms of personal attachment or fun Think you mentioned you had a chipped alltrack—what’d you go with? And is it just a non-option with a warranty? Love the car but it could use a bit more power. And got to have my first VW exorcism experience yesterday! The (yellow) brakes warning light appeared on the dash while driving through snowy mountains; not exactly reassuring, so it’s at the dealer now due to that aforementioned warranty.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 03:23
|
|
|
I did APR+ because it has a warranty. Talked to the shop pretty extensively - they said they just had one claim in on the warranty so far which was for a wastegate actuator and very unlikely to be related to the tune. They seemed to think that APR was being pretty good about warranty claims for what it's worth. It's a nice tune. A little soft down low, but it pulls very well in mid range. I'm keeping everything else stock for now so I'd just as soon save the clutch and Haldex system. Which brake light? the pad wear light or the brake lamp light? I frequently get the yellow warning triangle lamp in snow; it's because the cross-traffic and distance detection sensors are obscured.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 14:47
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I did APR+ because it has a warranty. Talked to the shop pretty extensively - they said they just had one claim in on the warranty so far which was for a wastegate actuator and very unlikely to be related to the tune. They seemed to think that APR was being pretty good about warranty claims for what it's worth. I was always tempted to get a stage 1 tune but I never pulled the trigger on my GTI. They have a tune now for the B9 S4 and when you look at number it makes number bigger. People who have gone to the track with their stage 1 APR tune do see an improvement. Launching form 0-60 goes from like, 4.2s to 3.9s and quarter mile times improve a few tenths. I can't reasonably expect that I will ever notice this level of improvement. However, the stage 1 tune also allows you to default the engine shut-off at stoplights to off so that alone may be worth the cost.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 17:47
|
|
|
rope kid posted:I've been seriously considering getting an Alltrack, but I know I would immediately regret selling my R32 (which I would do). If it's a mk4, do it and sell it to me for cheap 
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 18:32
|
|
|
Yeah I don't think I'd ever bother with a faster car like an S4.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 18:33
|
|
|
Murgos posted:However, the stage 1 tune also allows you to default the engine shut-off at stoplights to off so that alone may be worth the cost. I had a JB4 in my GTI and some mouse decided to chew it and a number of engine wires to pieces, but I think maybe I can repair it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 19:38
|
|
|
Murgos posted:Anyone have a guide on bypassing the Audi MMI sim card and tethering to an iPhone for the car wifi network? I know on the older Audi MMI before the MIB versions you could access a green engineering/debug menu and change how the car receives data. I am not currently aware of how you would do that on a MIB2 car. With VCDS you can modify the connection data to a degree but I don't know about allowing tethering. Do some digging on the site https://upgrademyaudi.net as he has lots of tutorials about Audi MMI hackery.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 23:00
|
|
|
Rusty posted:You can do that with a number of ODB devices as well. I bought a Carrista for this specifically and it was $20. It also does a bunch of other tweaks like keyfob to open windows and turn off all chimes etc. I don't think Carista will turn off the auto-stop on my 2020 GLI. I'll have to look and see... If yours is older, then it probably doesn't matter. edit: I couldn't find it, so it probably won't work on MY 2020 cars. It does kill the fake engine sound through the speakers. Mad Dragon fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jan 27, 2021 |
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2021 23:43
|
|
|
Mad Dragon posted:I don't think Carista will turn off the auto-stop on my 2020 GLI. I'll have to look and see... If yours is older, then it probably doesn't matter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2021 01:04
|
|
|
mrtrunks84 posted:I know on the older Audi MMI before the MIB versions you could access a green engineering/debug menu and change how the car receives data. I am not currently aware of how you would do that on a MIB2 car. With VCDS you can modify the connection data to a degree but I don't know about allowing tethering. Do some digging on the site https://upgrademyaudi.net as he has lots of tutorials about Audi MMI hackery. They have instructions on converting a MII 3G over to not need a sim but not MIB2. I suppose it's not really important. I just thought it would be fun. Really, I just use carplay for maps and music anyway. Messing around it looks like when I am parked at home I can connect my car wifi to my home wifi router and use that to pull down firmware and map updates without an active SIM. So, that's cool, I guess. Anyone use the myAudi app to stream music? Again, something already handled through Carplay but seems like it could be fun to mess with.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2021 21:16
|
|
|
Hey VW thread, have a few quick questions that the internet doesn’t answer well. I am 6’6-6’7 with a long torso. How is the current GTI and GLI for someone tall? Getting tired of commuting in my truck(2018 ram), my head hits the roof in the morning and my knee hits the dash if I slouch too much in the afternoon. How has reliability been on the newer ones, say 2019+? Not expecting great, but something I could put 150k on before a timing chain job would be nice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 04:02
|
|
|
I'm 6'5 long legs and fit in a gti with room to spare. Haven't tried a GLI.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 04:44
|
|
|
movax posted:I didn't get a chance to attack this over the holidays, but have some time coming up — any pointers to guide / docs on what to pull out to take a look at the belt / tensioner? Well I found my coolant "leak" I think... (these looked a lot better on the little inspection camera screen, but...):   Not pictured but lots of pinkish red crud right below exit of the connector, and when I tried to remove it carefully, the connector housing disintegrated and one of the pins is super green / corroded. I'd say this explains why the engine temps were incorrect, and who knows what the effects of running like this for quite some time were if the control loop thought the engine was always at 100 C no matter what. Don't think the zip ties were stock either. Looks like some GND lugs for a local GND /shield here, also pretty grody:  Pulled off and cleaned those in IPA. I was about to go figure out which Deutsch family this is (probably AMPSEAL or Superseal I'd imagine) but looks like people sell pre-crimped / pre-made pigtails for repairs. Can I just use this (https://www.amazon.com/Connector-2-way-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B01IMLKZCG), and then use high-temp butt splices + silicone self-fusing tape or some other high-temp / fluid resistant tape to wrap it all up in? Would save a fuckload of time in figuring out the keying / right part numbers to get off Digi-Key. Right now, I just have two hosed up pins left on the harness, so I'll cut them off, try to dip in IPA / clean, and then splice to the repair harness. I know some Audis / VWs had hilarious (terrible) problems with coolant wicking up along the wires. Where's the ECU / module this one connects too on a B7 A4, BPG engine? I guess I can find it, try to pull it and examine the connectors there to see if it made it along this harness. Looks like it isn't the flange itself (was replaced in the past) but the O-Ring on the CTS looked OK when I pulled it off. Regardless, the fact that the connector disintegrated and one of the pins straight up dissolved means that something went wrong! Still no luck starting though -- definitely cranks, I see the engine RPMs bounce up a few hundred RPMs and it almost caught and started once. Confirmed relays operational via VCDS (Fuel pump relay and others) -- if I want to start trying to debug fuel supply problems, how can I start in investigating the HPFP And friends? I hear a whine from the hood when putting IGN to "Run" which I think is the HPFP priming, but looks like the pressure measurements on fuel are only available when engine is on which I can't get too right now. I'm hoping I can get it starting reliably, and then immediately get to a long overdue oil change w/ engine flush, and then do a series of sooner-than-normal changes to try and get out as much gunk as I can / see if I can get the engine oil as clean as possible.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 05:15
|
|
|
rdb posted:Hey VW thread, have a few quick questions that the internet doesn’t answer well. The internet doesn’t answer this well because people’s bodies are very different. You’ll have to go sit in one. By the end of the Mk.7 platform lifecycle it should be pretty reliable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 12:43
|
|
|
rdb posted:Hey VW thread, have a few quick questions that the internet doesn’t answer well. When I bought my Mk6 GTI my buddy went with me and he's 6'6". He had no issues at all and was even comfortable in the back seat and rode in it many times. I don't think the Mk7 and Mk8 are very different internally but you should go sit in it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 15:40
|
|
|
movax posted:
This must be a common issue because I had the same thing on my 2005 A4. Was sort of the final straw for me to sell and move on, but hopefully you have more patience/better luck than I did.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 17:14
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The internet doesn’t answer this well because people’s bodies are very different. You’ll have to go sit in one. Its hard, the dealers are at least an hour to an hour and a half away. I had a golf rental car ca. 2017, it was fine once the seat was down and back. But I have never sat in the current gti or a jetta GLI for that matter. I forced myself to watch doug demuro, hes 6’4” and doing the sunroof lean on the GLI. Thanks for all the answers folks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
i'm 6'4", all legs and the gti is extremely comfortable for me. you should be fine. what's my cheapest option for a tool (obdeleven? carista?) to do the DSG fluid change?
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 18:21
|
|
|
rdb posted:Its hard, the dealers are at least an hour to an hour and a half away. I had a golf rental car ca. 2017, it was fine once the seat was down and back. But I have never sat in the current gti or a jetta GLI for that matter. I forced myself to watch doug demuro, hes 6’4” and doing the sunroof lean on the GLI. The GTI will be the same as the 2017 Golf although the seats are slightly different. I assume you're relatively rural if the nearest dealer is an hour away, or else I'd suggest hitting up Turo or a rental car joint. You could go on the Vortex and see if someone near you owns one that will let you sit in it. Pandemic makes this harder, of course.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
Blakkout posted:This must be a common issue because I had the same thing on my 2005 A4. Was sort of the final straw for me to sell and move on, but hopefully you have more patience/better luck than I did. I'm hoping that replacing the CTS correctly actually fixes my other issues -- or at least gets things running enough that I can get more runtime / look for more potential issues with the vehicle. Most time I've spent under the hood so far, has been a good learning experience for a more electrical minded guy like myself. Found the actual FEP part numbers from an AudiZine thread on the coolant flange replacement, so found it on Amazon and will try it out later this week. One thing I am still confused on and the SNR is terrible on most forums... BPG is my engine code, B7 is my chassis code, A4 2.0T is the model number / product name -- I still see people talking about chains on these engines and it should, as far as I can tell, have a belt. Are there cam timing chains in addition? I'm a noob / get the general idea that all these spinny bits have to be in the right position at the right time and that chains and belts are ways of solving that problem but my Googling is returning conflicting info on the EA113 / EAxx engine code, and then BPG, BPY, etc and what the gently caress does what. movax fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
The EA113 has one of the goofiest timing designs in world history, in that there's a belt that goes from the crank to the (exhaust? one of them) cam, and a chain that goes from the intake cam to the exhaust cam. EA113 is the engine family. The three letter code following is a more specific model, which would include emissions-based state of tune, internals, ECU, etc. BPY is the North American market version in 200hp form and is a NA stock engine for the B7. Not sure about BPG, some quick googling indicates it was an early 2005.5 version of the TFSI for North America but I don't trust any of the immediate sources.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 21:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 03:04 |
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The EA113 has one of the goofiest timing designs in world history, in that there's a belt that goes from the crank to the (exhaust? one of them) cam, and a chain that goes from the intake cam to the exhaust cam. That's hardly new, that's how the original 20vs (3B/7A/AAN) did it too: Timing belt from crank to water pump/exhaust cam, and chain between the exhaust and intake cams. 
CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Feb 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 21:07
|
|
