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DrDork posted:You can see if the motherboard exposes VRM temps, otherwise do you have a temp gun or sensors you could stick to them? All the wattage for your CPU goes through those, so they could be disappating a considerable amount of heat from shoving 150+W through them--a "good" temp is usually around 60C, with poor implementations hitting 90+. Are those cheap infrared thermometer guns accurate if aimed at heatsinks (not sure if the reflectiveness of aluminum is a problem)?
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 03:24 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 22:11 |
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Zero VGS posted:Are those cheap infrared thermometer guns accurate if aimed at heatsinks (not sure if the reflectiveness of aluminum is a problem)? Shiny surfaces can be a problem, but matte aluminum should be ok--try not to have a light shining directly on it, if you can. Really what you're looking for is a ballpark reading at stock and then the delta between that and whatever your "solution" ends up being. If you wanted to get a more expensive one with adjustable emissivity on it, go ahead, but I don't think it's really required here--if your heatsink fix shows a 30C jump or something, you dun hosed up and need to figure something else out. If it's like 5-10C different, it's probably fine regardless of whatever the actual temps are.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 03:30 |
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Sliger CL530 “conswole” with all black color scheme arrived yesterday. To those unfamiliar, it’s similar to Node 202, Sentry. First impressions: +Understated in appearance. The power switch is a little silver button with white ring LED which makes it look almost elegant? It doesn’t look basic like an office machine would, but it would seem right at home in some workstation computer lab. + Fits my NH-L12S and a triple slot GPU. + All metal case feels really nice. Parts are hefty and rigid. Probably my most premium and professional feeling case to date? - Case feels spartan when you build in it. It still has nice interior build quality, but I was hoping for something like cable channels or places to anchor zip ties. - USB-A front panel port cutout is perfectly square and feels just a hair too big for the not-perfectly square USB-A port. This irks me unreasonably, considering the USB-C port cutout perfectly fits with the port. - Base plate I bought seems a little basic. It’s very weighty which feels nice, but eh. I’m not sure if it would provide more stability in the vertical position, despite the weight. - Could stand to be slightly less tall? A few reviewers have mentioned that it’s not as space optimized as other cases, and I’m inclined to agree. Still definitely ITX though. - - No included instructions. I had to find images of completed builds, Imgur galleries. There’s a bag of screws and I wasn’t sure at all which went where. At the very least, a leaflet explaining what the different screws are for would go a long way. Most people selecting this case are uses to building in difficult cases. But cmon. Anywho, I’m staying with this case for a long time. Hopefully I hold onto it as long as I did with the SG13. Despite my laundry list of weird nitpicks, it feels like a keeper.
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# ? Jan 1, 2021 22:15 |
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Sliger makes really sturdy, great cases. Is the panel where the usb is too big removable? Their customer service seems great. Hit them up on Reddit or something I’m sure they can provide a replacement if it ain’t up to spec.
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# ? Jan 1, 2021 22:23 |
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Nah it’s something that’s manufactured that way. Even their promo images show it. I knew about it going in. Probably easier in production/cost.
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# ? Jan 1, 2021 22:36 |
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Cool, I should be getting my CL530 (I don't want to call it by its silly nickname) in next Tuesday. I opted for no front connectors, as mine will sit behind the living room TV, some 9 feet away from the couch. So, I won't have to worry about the issue you mentioned there. I did see that the product page appeared to mention that there was no documentation. My current build is in a Node 202, which I plan to migrate into the CL530. Hope I'll be okay, especially as I have a SATA SSD I haven't seen any builds with a SATA SSD, but I think I have an idea of where to mount it, based on the product photos.
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 05:56 |
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There should be enough space for a 2.5" SSD somewhere in there. The magic of 2.5" SSDs are, technically speaking, any case can support them with the use of velcro tape I think the bigger hassle is having to add an additional PSU cable and SATA cable into the mix. The build is fine. Its basically 2 parts and the side panel pops off with your fingers. https://imgur.com/a/Uq76w3P#rzJdUEF This album is a pretty good resource for your build. I used this and the Sliger product page in order to figure out what went where. I also have no idea why this guy removed the PSU frame first. I was able to mount it with a short screwdriver. What also helps is that I migrated all my screws from my old SG13 build, so I was able to ignore most of the screws besides the ones which hold the GPU down and keep aligned with the bracket, and the fan cage screws (from what it looks like on the product page, each fan only needs 2 screws, not 4.)
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# ? Jan 2, 2021 07:09 |
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I missed the SF750 going back in stock on Corsair's UK site by 3 hours.
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# ? Jan 4, 2021 12:20 |
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Does the corsair 3000 series 12 pin power supply cable worth with the sfx psus?
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# ? Jan 5, 2021 18:50 |
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horchata posted:Does the corsair 3000 series 12 pin power supply cable worth with the sfx psus? I don't quite understand which cable you're referring to, and the conventional wisdom is to never use a cable with a different model PSU, even if it's from the same manufacturer, else you risk destroying components. That said, Corsair provides a compatibility matrix for their cables and PSUs. The dumb webpage doesn't display correctly on mobile devices no matter what you do, so open this on a desktop: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility
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# ? Jan 5, 2021 19:01 |
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horchata posted:Does the corsair 3000 series 12 pin power supply cable worth with the sfx psus? Yes. However it's 60cm long, which is a lot of cable to have to tuck away. In my nr200 I think I'm happier with the adapter and shorter standard sfx power cables (which are tucked behind the front panel) than I would be with the much longer but direct 12 pin cable. If they make a short sfx 12 pin version then I might consider that. HappyCapybaraFamily posted:I don't quite understand which cable you're referring to, and the conventional wisdom is to never use a cable with a different model PSU, even if it's from the same manufacturer, else you risk destroying components. They're talking about the 12 pin cable available to buy on Corsair's website for directly connecting to FE 30x0 nvidia GPUs, rather than having to use the 2x8 pin adapter that comes with the card. It's compatible with all modular type 3 and 4 corsair PSUs which means all the SFX line. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jan 5, 2021 |
# ? Jan 5, 2021 19:07 |
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Butterfly Valley posted:Yes. However it's 60cm long, which is a lot of cable to have to tuck away. In my nr200 I think I'm happier with the adapter and shorter standard sfx power cables (which are tucked behind the front panel) than I would be with the much longer but direct 12 pin cable. If they make a short sfx 12 pin version then I might consider that. I'll stick with the adapter for now then since I also have an NR200
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# ? Jan 5, 2021 19:30 |
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My hunt for a motherboard and an SF750 are going about as well as I'd expect, so I thought I'd ask about other options: Looking at PCPartPicker, even if I upgrade to a 3080 I still won't be breaking 500W supposedly — is that enough headroom to justify going with the much easier to find SF600? As for the motherboard, I've been looking at mITX B550I boards and everyone seems to be using the Gigabyte AORUS one, but that is similarly hard to find. Any comments on other brands' B550I boards, like ASUS or MSI?
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# ? Jan 5, 2021 23:37 |
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I'm using a 3080 with an SF600 with zero issues.
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# ? Jan 5, 2021 23:59 |
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OptimumTech did a video in the SF600 and 3080 and said it’s fine.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 00:03 |
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If you're not planning on clocking a 3080 to the moon, 600W is sufficient. Stock 3080's hit around 320-350W, but with trivial undervolting you can bring that down to 250-275W. A B550 + 5600X are less than 150W total at load. So you're talking a max of like 550W, with a realistic load of closer to 450W. I have a SeaSonic SFX 650 and run a 3080 FE + 5600X + 32GB RAM on a X570 board and it's perfectly fine. You won't be getting the max efficiency out of a 600W PSU running it at 500W, but you're talking like a 1% efficiency difference anyhow, so gently caress it. The biggest downside to a 600 vs a 750 would be "futureproofing" in case the 4080 or whatever the hot card in 2022 is decides to drink down 400+W. DrDork fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 6, 2021 |
# ? Jan 6, 2021 00:06 |
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I just built an NR200 with a cooler master 650w sfx psu. 10 year warranty. No clue if it will blow the system up in 6 months. Fan on it is quiet at least.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 00:10 |
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ephori posted:I'm using a 3080 with an SF600 with zero issues. Me too. I had wanted an SF750 but when I was assembling the build last month it looked like new stock was a month away (about now), so settled for the SF600. I checked again yesterday out of curiosity and looks like they're out of stock again until at least March so yeah just get the SF600 and don't fret.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 00:13 |
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Keret posted:My hunt for a motherboard and an SF750 are going about as well as I'd expect, so I thought I'd ask about other options: ITX B550’s, listed by What’s Wrong With Them: Gigabyte: no USB C front panel header. That’s it. That’s why everyone likes this one. Asrock: weird 90 degree SATA ports if you care about SATA; Can’t set PCIE Gen 3 in BIOS without contacting support for a beta bios and blah blah huge pain in the rear end. Definitely the best USB C header having choice if you aren’t using a riser card, arguably so if you are and can get the beta bios etc. MSI: Front panel USB C runs at half speed for god knows what reason. Weird nonstandard bracket incompatible with some coolers. Clear CMOS jumper hidden behind I/O shield. Asus: kind of pricey. Isn’t actually better in any meaningful way to justify that price increase. Pick your poison.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 17:13 |
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ijyt posted:I missed the SF750 going back in stock on Corsair's UK site by 3 hours.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 17:44 |
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Got my CL530 in today. Gonna try to get custom DEMCiflex filters for free* because apparently no one's done this yet so they don't have filters for this case in their shop, unlike the more popular Sligers. * If I can measure them perfectly the first time and provide perfect photographs fulfilling specific critters to them to prove they fit perfectly, they'll reimburse me the cost of the filters. Neat program On another topic, I had posted that I couldn't get more than a very modest undervolt on my RTX 3080 FE. Turns out the one thing tutorials never tell you (probably because they assume you know better and aren't a moron) is to make sure you're running two PCIe power cables from the PSU to the card instead of trying to power it over one split cable. Got my undervolt down to 900mV @ 1920 MHz now, but I bet I could push it down further with more testing HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jan 6, 2021 |
# ? Jan 6, 2021 18:43 |
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Any recommendation on am AM4 ITX board? I don't need USB-C or anything like that. Just something with good VRM's and USB3.0 that's in stock somewhere.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 18:46 |
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Butterfly Valley posted:Me too. I had wanted an SF750 but when I was assembling the build last month it looked like new stock was a month away (about now), so settled for the SF600. I checked again yesterday out of curiosity and looks like they're out of stock again until at least March so yeah just get the SF600 and don't fret. Third vote that I'm running just fine on an SF600, 3080, and 3900X. I did undervolt the 3080 but half the time I forget to load MSI afterburner and it still runs fine.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 20:16 |
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Got my CL530 in today. Gonna try to get custom DEMCiflex filters for free* because apparently no one's done this yet so they don't have filters for this case in their shop, unlike the more popular Sligers.
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# ? Jan 6, 2021 22:00 |
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Romes128 posted:Any recommendation on am AM4 ITX board? I don't need USB-C or anything like that. Just something with good VRM's and USB3.0 that's in stock somewhere. 2 Posts up; I just posted the rundown on all four that matter. (Don't get x570 for ITX AM4. It literally offers you nothing but a second PCIE4 m.2 slot, and you get worse networking for good measure. The only exception is if you want Thunderbolt, because there's only one board that does that. It's not a great board though.) In terms of stuff like VRM's or I/O beyond what I mentioned, the tl;dr is "They're all more than good enough for what you need and you shouldn't worry about getting into the weeds over the differences."
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 00:21 |
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CaptainPsyko posted:2 Posts up; I just posted the rundown on all four that matter. (Don't get x570 for ITX AM4. It literally offers you nothing but a second PCIE4 m.2 slot, and you get worse networking for good measure. The only exception is if you want Thunderbolt, because there's only one board that does that. It's not a great board though.) In terms of stuff like VRM's or I/O beyond what I mentioned, the tl;dr is "They're all more than good enough for what you need and you shouldn't worry about getting into the weeds over the differences." Cool. Thanks! I went with the MSI B550. Don’t care about front USB-C and it was in stock.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 02:55 |
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Romes128 posted:Cool. Thanks! I went with the MSI B550. Don’t care about front USB-C and it was in stock. Just double check cooler compatibility for that one - there's some weirdness with some that require a backplate, for example, the Noctua L9a, you'll need to get an extra part from them; https://noctua.at/en/noctua-offers-alternative-mounting-option-for-nh-l9a-cooler-free-of-charge
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 03:00 |
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CaptainPsyko posted:Just double check cooler compatibility for that one - there's some weirdness with some that require a backplate, for example, the Noctua L9a, you'll need to get an extra part from them; https://noctua.at/en/noctua-offers-alternative-mounting-option-for-nh-l9a-cooler-free-of-charge I have an Asetek 645LT that screws in from the front and should be able to use MSI’s backplate. Should be ok.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 03:18 |
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So I’m starting to loosely plan a build with an NR200P, a Ryzen 3600, and whatever midrange card is the best option come this summer. Aircooled. Is there any reason to consider an SFX-L power supply? I’d normally go that directions because I really dislike fan noise, but it looks like the SF series are generally very quiet, and an SFX-L might interfere with top fans. Am I off base in my thoughts here?
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 03:20 |
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Some of the SFX-L PSUs are easier to find than their SFX brethren is one of the big reasons to consider them.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 03:23 |
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Just don’t get the Silverstonr sfx-l. Cables are stiff as gently caress and I spent way too much time trying to get them situated properly.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 03:32 |
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TheMadMilkman posted:So I’m starting to loosely plan a build with an NR200P, a Ryzen 3600, and whatever midrange card is the best option come this summer. Aircooled. The only reason to go SFX-L instead of the Corsair SF600/SF750 is availability.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 03:59 |
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Got it. Since this is a longer-term plan, I think I’ll be patient on the availability.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 05:56 |
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Got my CL530 in too. It's a 3700x, gigabyte b550, m1 ssd, and a giant 3 fan cooler Asus 2060. So far it's been going pretty great. The 2060 fit in the CL530 no problem and its temps have been great. Like generally < 60c while playing Cyberpunk without much noise. Also surprised how well it performs @ 1080p. With rtx on at medium with DLSS, and mostly high settings it's generally been staying above 60 fps. This is also while in a pretty contained space. The cpu has been less happy. I'm running an ID-Cooling ls 60 with the noctua thin fan mounted on it (this was originally gonna be a node 202 build). It idles around 50c and pretty quickly jumps to 70c+ while gaming. Haven't noticed any downclocking but that's awfully hot. I lowered the voltage a little and its now mostly staying under 70c but I might try lowering it more. Not sure if I can do much else on the temps. I could try mounting a fan on the outside near the cpu as exhaust but not sure if that'd help enough to be worth the bother. This is part of my Project Ugly IMac and I'll post pictures of the whole monstrosity when I clean it up a little.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 07:00 |
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70C is hot? For ITX, i'm pretty happy as long as things stay below 80C. Honestly I think you're fine.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 09:06 |
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FuzzySlippers posted:CL530 in too. It's a 3700x... 70c+ while gaming. Haven't noticed any downclocking but that's awfully hot. As other poster said, with a low profile cooler in a tight case like that, those are absolutely normal temps. Ryzens don't start thermal throttling until 85c anyway.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 09:59 |
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Romes128 posted:Just don’t get the Silverstonr sfx-l. Cables are stiff as gently caress and I spent way too much time trying to get them situated properly. lol I've got a silverstone sx-700-pt which is a normal sfx one and that also has the stiff rear end ribbon cables. But, as they say, the best ability is availability. Took a little while and more than a few knuckle scratches until the innards of my nr200 looked merely messy.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 10:39 |
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70C+ while gaming is fine but 50C idle sounds a bit high. Might be worth a re-seat?
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 11:51 |
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Arzachel posted:70C+ while gaming is fine but 50C idle sounds a bit high. Might be worth a re-seat? My 3700x used to idle on anywhere between 40-50c on warm days (no air conditioning). Seems fine for a small cooler like that.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 12:04 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 22:11 |
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Received the same one! Forgot about that backorder. I now have 2x SF750, which feels like a bit much. Guess I'll return the one I paid £190 for.
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# ? Jan 7, 2021 13:41 |