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honda whisperer posted:Was looking at flaring tools, any recommendations? Autozone rental is out, I figure I'll probably be doing brake lines till I die and a nice one is cheaper than therapy so... The one that I've always seen recommended here, which I was planning on buying for myself when it comes time to do brakes in the spring, is OEM 24364,  at autozone.
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Dec 29, 2020 06:40
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Raluek posted:The one that I've always seen recommended here, which I was planning on buying for myself when it comes time to do brakes in the spring, is OEM 24364, For $20 I've got one on its way. I'll report back. Also ordered some 3/16 nicopp brake line. Internet says it gives up 200 psi max pressure (7200 vs 7000psi), is dot approved, won't rust, and is easy to bend and flare. Fingers crossed on that one.  Got the trans separated from the blown up k24.  And up on a stand.  Yep there's your problem. Same valve on each cylinder was bent, looks like only one though.  Went ahead and broke the rest of the engine down. And am very glad I didn't just try to swap the head in the car or just fix the valves.   Crank has a couple little spots but might buff out. Bearings probably weren't long for this world though. Being bad at oil changes can cause premature failure of the tensioner on the timing chain, and this tracks. 155k Honda killed for want of fresh oil.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:44
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Yes, that inline flaring tool is the way to go. The only downside with that one is it's just a single size - fine if all you need to flare is 3/16 but if you need to do anything else you'll want to pick up a more complete set. That and some copper brake line made redoing the axle brake lines on my truck a goddamn breeze. It really is easy to work with, you won't need any sort of bending tools unless you're trying to do too sharp of a bend.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:55
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Another vote for CuNiFer brake line. I ran all the lines in my 2500hd with it.
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Jan 1, 2021 22:54
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Achtane posted:I love this thread. I started reading it to try to figure out what to get for secret santa but it really is a great thread.
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Jan 2, 2021 04:26
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Good to hear some confirmation that weird brake line is good. Started today getting the b16 off the ground.  Pulled off the exhaust manifold, wiring, and alternator. I'll have to either dent in or notch the frame on the driver's side to clear the pulley. This thing will be in and out a lot so I figure I'll actually mark it up and do it right.  Will the hoist clear?  It will! B/D/H/ whatever 89-2000 Honda swap tip, the rear bracket sucks to line up. Getting the bolt to thread into the nut is frustrating.  Get a bolt with a tapered nose in from the other side to line everything up. Then unthread it while sending the other one home.  And in. Time to start ordering some parts. I figure the more of the it has to go here stuff I have in the way the better I'll fit the custom crap. I assume everyone here has seen project binky but if you haven't it's a great channel on YouTube. I'm hoping I can emulate their level of I'll have to work on this later planning. This poor engine has sat for... Uh probably 8-9 years at this point. Putting it back in a car is making me all nostalgic so a bit of history. This will be my 3rd, and god willing, final EF civic build. I present the second civic, donor of most of the parts. Before!  After...  Got t-boned by an suv. Totally their fault. Hurt a lot too. The roll bar saved my life. You can see in the picture the horizontal and diagonal bars of the main hoop are bent. But I walked away, stripped everything off the car that wasn't damaged, and stashed it for later. I also swore I'd never track a car without a cage again. Accident had nothing to do with the track, just made me really aware of how much that car was an empty beer can.
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Jan 2, 2021 23:29
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The fact they're made from the flimsiest tin is why they're so good though. Definitely wouldn't want to crash one at any sort of speed. Or indeed have a loving SUV try to cave my head in from the side. You were lucky on that one, yeesh. Build is still rad. My friend has the engine in her 3G and spent the day taking apart and refurbing the alternator on the b16. Looks like new!
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Jan 3, 2021 02:43
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honda whisperer posted:I also swore I'd never track a car without a cage again. Accident had nothing to do with the track, just made me really aware of how much that car was an empty beer can. Once you've been on track in a caged car anything else feels really sketchy. I forgot my HANS for a open track day one time and not having that made me nervous. It's weird but once you get used to cage/harness/seat/HANS/etc anything less is uncomfortable.
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Jan 3, 2021 18:25
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honda whisperer posted:I also swore I'd never track a car without a cage again. Accident had nothing to do with the track, just made me really aware of how much that car was an empty beer can. Wow you were lucky good thing you had the cage in it for sure. I've told the story in AI before about seeing an EF Civic in a wreck and being shocked at how destroyed it was, it looked like a bomb went off inside of it. The other car (ford Bronco) looked hardly damaged and pretty much drove through the civic. Of course later found out the Civic was street racing.
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Jan 3, 2021 18:47
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I'm less worried about it in a newer car with much stronger chassis and a full suite of airbags. However, I do want to get a cage for my track oriented cars.
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Jan 3, 2021 20:59
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Agreed it would be a lot less sketchy in a modern car, and agreed that the super tin can is what makes old civics special. Got parts on order, should start showing up at the end of this week. Hopefully this plan works. Front will be 96 prelude rotors I'll drill 4x100 with integra type r calipers. I'll have to mill the brackets to fit. Rear will stay crx. Also I'm going to ditch the booster and use a type-r master. If I've got to make an adapter anyway might as well be for something I hope will be more replaceable in the future. Larger bore should match the new fronts better. Got a tilton prop valve coming. I'll use that to back off the rear pressure while ditching the diagonal split. Need to decide on pads. I'm open to suggestions. I'm sure a lot has changed since I was last into this.
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Jan 4, 2021 00:14
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honda whisperer posted:
Not sure if they make any for the integra calipers but I'm a big fan of GLOC pads.
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Jan 6, 2021 00:10
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My car has R18/R10 GLocs on it, but I still don't understand the love for them given the price. I haven't compared them back to back with anything like I did with the Hawk DTC60, Stoptech SR33, and Raybestos ST43 on the S2000 so I guess it is something to try.
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Jan 6, 2021 00:26
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Diametunim posted:Not sure if they make any for the integra calipers but I'm a big fan of GLOC pads. I'll look into them BlackMK4 posted:My car has R18/R10 GLocs on it, but I still don't understand the love for them given the price. I haven't compared them back to back with anything like I did with the Hawk DTC60, Stoptech SR33, and Raybestos ST43 on the S2000 so I guess it is something to try. Thoughts from that? Iirc from back in the day, hawks were solid, cheap and hell on rotors. Cobalt friction was awesome but $$$. I had one friend that ran CL pads on his daily/full send 400whp Evo track car and they were awesome. We all decided sounding like a stopping train at the drive thru was a feature not a bug.
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Jan 6, 2021 01:07
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Starting to tear apart the old suspension to prep it for sandblast and paint. I lack the pile of "trash" that normally makes a press work so I whittled up a honda wheel bearing press fixture. Holy poo poo it actually worked. I didn't honestly expect that to hold up.  Mmm crispy.  Box of crap ready for sandblast.  I need snap ring pliers.
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Jan 6, 2021 03:42
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Cool jig! Man I wish I had a welder to do poo poo like that.
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Jan 6, 2021 03:54
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We've mostly ran Hawk pads for the past ~20 years of track days and racing, partially because they're great and partially because for a while we got a massive discount on them. We tried the Hawk Blue equivalents from Raybestos and PFC one season and they seemed fine but in the end we always went back to Hawk. Blue's for HPDE/endurance, something more aggressive for sprint races...Think I have the the DTC70 pads on the race car right now but haven't been on track to see how I like them.
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Jan 6, 2021 14:31
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honda whisperer posted:Need to decide on pads. I'm open to suggestions. I'm sure a lot has changed since I was last into this. EBC is trash that belongs in the bin. Porterfield's stuff is p dece. Hawk is solid, cheap, and has an easy contingency program. Carbotech is solid but some people can't figure out how to bed them in. I only ran street tires (super TW200s) on both the Miata and the SC300 and had good success with Hawk DTC-60s with the caveat that they don't do anything under 300F. honda whisperer posted:I need snap ring pliers. don't we all Phone fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 16:24
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I am using Ferodo DS2500 for street and 'light track' duties as the biting force stays consistent. PFC08 is what I use for track days. (I don't drive a light car, this is a beefy 2011 BMW 335is)
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Jan 6, 2021 17:04
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jink posted:I am using Ferodo DS2500 for street and 'light track' duties as the biting force stays consistent. That's essentially the stock Brembo pad, isn't it?
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Jan 6, 2021 20:11
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Raluek posted:That's essentially the stock Brembo pad, isn't it? I believe it is. GM also uses it on all sorts of cars, which is why I struggled to get a set for the front (lots of demand from Corvette/Camaro)
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Jan 6, 2021 21:13
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honda whisperer posted:Thoughts from that? I was fine with the Stoptech SR33 pads and the Raybestos ST43 felt basically the same to me. Raybestos has (had???) stupid generous contingency, I ended up with a pile of pads. The GLocs I am running now feel very temperature dependent and lower on initial bite than the Stoptech/Raybestos, but again, hard to compare since it is a different car. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 21:38
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Appreciate the feedback everyone. 99% I'll start with hawks. Still solid and easy contingency with nasa. Looks like they even offer discounts for hpde now? There was a pile of parts sitting on my porch when I got home. Grabbed the shiny one first.  Priced out integra stock from rock auto ($70 but ??? brands), fluidyne ($350ish) and koyo, who had a 89-91 civic with b series option for $200. Went for the koyo and it dropped right in. Rock auto had gates hoses for a DA integra for $10 and they showed up too.  Lower is perfect, uppers a little short. Looks like it was cut funny? Debating on sending it back and trying again vs adjusting the thermostat housing a touch. Was already considering that to allow AN lines to the heater core for easy maintenance. I'll sweat it later.  ITR master has room to spare. Adapter design sounds like a good project for tomorrow. Picked up snap ring pliers today. Then I started looking around for something wheel bearing sized. Hmmm....  That's not... What you're supposed to do with that...  Worked though. Took the end off and put an impact socket on it. Not the whole cam. Dude with another civic at work thinks he's got 3 oem Si hubs new in bag at home. He went SiR knuckles a while ago and doesn't need em anymore. Either way spares are good.  Who ever said violence isn't the answer never worked on 30 year old suspension. Box of stuff to sandblast is ready for this weekend. 
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Jan 7, 2021 04:01
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honda whisperer posted:Appreciate the feedback everyone. 99% I'll start with hawks. Still solid and easy contingency with nasa. Looks like they even offer discounts for hpde now? Another vote for hawks. I run DTC60's all around on the track in a miata on the silly 200TW tires, and HP+ front / DTC60 rear for autox... only because I'm way too loving lazy to mess with setting the parking brake every time I swap the rear pads, and HP+ delaminate at track temps. I also drive them on the street to the track, and while they don't do a lot <300f, they do enough and also heat up quickly. I'm at what feels like 'good' stopping force within 4 corners, and full bite by the end of a lap. I tend to be hard on brakes though.
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Jan 7, 2021 18:21
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Changed plan a bit, started sandblasting tonight, hope to paint Saturday. We've got a weird af "paint booth" and it's forever 72 inside.  That was boring. Oh my god 2 hours of just total tedium.  Guess where my headphones finally ran out of juice. Bringing backups tomorrow and going for it again. Coworker with the civic found his hubs. 3x oem new in bag for half price.
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Jan 8, 2021 02:01
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 Ugh. I'm gonna be glad I did this but man does it suck.
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Jan 9, 2021 03:01
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For FWD Hondas my preference is DTC60 front, HP+ rear. They'll get enough temp in a warm-up lap but also last for 3 hours with no ducting. That said, I'm only running a b16 and nt01s so my speed is a bit lower than if you had a well pretty b18c or k series.
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Jan 9, 2021 16:59
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honda whisperer posted:
I like sandblasting, it's weirdly satisfying to me for some reason 
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Jan 9, 2021 17:52
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I like sandblasting, it's weirdly satisfying to me for some reason It's awesome at the start. Cabinet at work is about 6" shorter than comfortable. An hour in it starts getting really old. Went into work this morning but didn't clock in. Personal projects to your hearts content on you own time. 2 bolts for the front heat shields sheared off. I've got some ideas for brake ducts and I'll need those holes to make it happen. Toe clamped that spindle on a mill.  It would take me longer to find where the holes are than to just pick each one up. There's also a little clearance counter bore above the threads so I eyeballed center and plunged an endmill to give me a reference.  Even where the bolts didn't break the threads looked rough so I decided to just drill them all for m6 and tap new threads.  That little dimple in the back of tap handles has a purpose. Stick something with a point in the spindle and it holds the whole mess square.  Cleaned the cutting fluid and wiped everything down and stuck it in the weird paint booth. Curtains with a huge air filtration system. We don't do much painting at work but it's nice when you need it.  Rust-oleum appliance epoxy for everything. Takes 24 hours to cure so I'll pick them up Monday. And hopefully get another round of suspension ready for the same treatment. Then some other stuff happened.  Hmm  HMMM.... This thing has been hiding inside a garage for about 3 years, and almost never driven. And I get why, it's obnoxious, the brakes scream, the exhaust is loud, the wastegates open dump, it's super stiff. Also the whole time you're driving it it's just whispering at you to do felonies. Do it, just rip a couple gears, we got this, c'mon, just a little boost. So I borrowed it for the weekend to do a little maintenance and prevent it from dying from just sitting.
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Jan 9, 2021 22:04
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Took the evo back to it's home and got the brz back tonight. Fresh oil, fresh gas, a few misc issues sorted. Once I filled the tank with new gas I really got on it a couple times. God that thing is fun. The brz needs more power. Not that much, but more for sure. Grinding out the trailing arm bushings with a wire wheel now. Works slowed down a bit so should hopefully be some good progress this week.
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Jan 13, 2021 02:36
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Jan 13, 2021 03:08
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RE: Piles of rubber bushing dust Ah, yes, always fun  Is the BRZ your daily/street car? Details? I sold my Civic Si this week after a friend asked if I still had it so I've been lazily thinking about what to replace it with
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Jan 13, 2021 04:01
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Yeah, 2017 brz, manual, no brembos. It was my daily till I got the accord, now it's still my daily unless the weather sucks / snow mostly. Or I need a real trunk. I autox with it to. When I bought it I'd decided I needed something rwd. I looked at it, miatas, s2000s, and 350/370s. The Miata was a little to small for me, the s2000s cost the same or more than a new brz unless they were ragged out, and the nissans got the axe when I priced out tires for them. I've been really happy with it. The good: works fine as a daily, easy to cruise on the highway. Absolute hoot if you start pushing it. Very predictable near the limit but needs something like autox or a track to get there. The stability control works well to keep it pointy end forward even if it's from snow instead of overdriving it. Track mode lets you slide it all over the place but will step in right where you're about to spin. Easy oil changes. Filter is on top with a drain, no undertray removal needed, no drips to wipe off. The bad:. Head unit sucks. It takes minutes to connect to bluetooth, it never updates what's playing. Easy to swap though, there is factory trim for double din. Tiny trunk opening. The trunk is much wider inside than the hole in the back. You'll have to drop the back seats and come in through the passenger door for larger items. The back seats are useless. You can fit 3 people in it if 2 of them are kids. 4 if ones in a baby seat. Last but not least the stock tires suck in the cold. Plan on needing something else under 40deg even if it's dry. It will fit 2x costco paper towel/ tp sized packages on the folded down back seats and still have the whole trunk. It's got some room but it is limited.
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Jan 13, 2021 14:30
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Second trailing arm done. This time I heated up the rubber first and it went a lot faster. Looked like a vape convention inside my garage though. Thanks for the p100s 3m. Glad I bought all that before the madness.  Aftermath  Got the rubber off the little through bushing things too. Had some time to spare so I pulled the front spindles and lower control arms too. LCAs need their bushings removed, sounds like a tomorrow problem.  Hoping to do another round of sandblasting this week and paint more Saturday.
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Jan 14, 2021 03:09
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Front lca bushings would not budge on the press. It's only a 12 ton harbor freight but still. So I notched them. Pushed out the inner sleeves and grabbed a hacksaw.  Then I beat on them with a punch.  Then I beat them harder.  And harder still.  3 hours and 4 bushings later.  I got smarter after the first one and notched then peeled back a 1/4" or so and used the press. They popped right out. I love car logic. Cage is 90% so I should mock up stuff like brake lines. So I need to figure out what brakes meaning I have to compare my old trailing arms to the ones on the car. Therefore I'm stripping and painting all the ancient suspension, doing bushings, ball joints, bearings, etc.
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Jan 15, 2021 03:58
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Well this has been a long weekend. Super satisfying though. Started Friday night by taking measurements of the brake master and the booster to start figuring it out. Then I let shadowplay record while I drew the master delete then wrote a program to machine it. Also I had no idea it was recording pandora and my mic at the same time. I'd have killed the radio and added commentary had I known. I did promise some effort posting about 5axis stuff and promptly didn't because customers get salty if their parts show up on the internet. So parts for the car get pics and video. Super boring 30 min video of fusion 360. Click this only of you're interested in waxing poetic about 5 axis programming. https://youtu.be/wpJLJtwoxFM Saturday I went to work and made it. First, let me say there's no reason to make this part on a 5 axis machine. It's a perfect 3 axis job. Profile it, drill and tap, face it. Flip it over and deck the back, boom part done. Buuut while I have access to a bunch of different machines at work, we're a job shop and each cnc has one guy who programs and runs the machine. So I ran it on my machine so I didn't have to ask to get in someone else's. Also I could record it. Total it took 3 operations, one to put a dovetail on so I could hold the thing with my weird vise. Basically it's a couple undercut angles on what will be the bottom of the part. The opposite are cut into the vise. When you clamp on it, it pulls the part down and is amazingly rigid for how little you're holding on to.  This lets me hang the rest of the part way out in space so I don't crash into, gently caress, everything.  I'll have to make a paint drawing to explain 5 axis but phone posting. Everything winds up getting uncomfortably close to each other. While it is possible to do the math and through pure skill make sure nothing that shouldnt touch will, I like to cheat. Fusion lets you simulate what's going to happen and check for crashes. For that to work everything has to be 1:1 with what you're doing. Like it's not enough to describe your endmill right anymore. You need the endmill and it's holder.  The machine itself will estimate what you're about to make too. It will not check for collisions though.  Send it. https://youtu.be/LKz73_U98kM Then I had to cut off the dovetail. This was the other bonus to running it on this machine. I wanted to try doing a setup that was picked up at a position outside of machine normal. I figured it would work but nice to try it on something that wasn't expensive or had a bunch of work in it. https://youtu.be/uvMHK7huMrw  Nice. While I was setting this up I was talking to a co-worker who runs a lathe or two. He had one going and one empty and volunteered to run some bushing sleeves for me. https://youtu.be/zXs3RcE3IWk  Hell yeah. I'm gonna go make some food, part two after.
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Jan 18, 2021 01:13
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Ok, part two. Cnc stuff done I did some more sandblasting and got another batch of parts painted.  That was it for Saturday. Today I started by putting together the front camber kit.  Lathe dude made me sleeves for this and the radius rods. SS too! I went to put the new ball joints in the upper a arms and there was an issue. One, they just fell in. No press. Two, there was no grove for a snap ring. They're going back to rock auto. Grabbed some replacements locally. They had the groove but didn't have much press. So I welded them.  I figure I'll just order assemblies in the future. I moved onto the front spindles. Started with the lower ball joints. Rented the ball joint tool and honda adapter while I was getting new uppers.  That done pressed extended studs into all the hubs, did wheel bearings for the front, and added the hubs after.  Front spindles are finished. Rear lower arms are painted so I started on the bushings. Looked at them for a while, read some stuff online, thought a bit, said gently caress it, went back to the parts store again. The shock bushings leave a small gap and have grooves around the sleeve. Zerk fittings? Zerk fittings. The two ends have a filler between them though. I need a way to get grease from the center out to the rest. I figure a groove around the outside with some holes to the center would work.  This... I had to think about this for a minute. I took a stud, slipped the bushing sleeve over it, stuck it in the chuck, then tightened a nut on the bottom. This made a very ghetto lathe. Used a file to cut the grooves. Added some radial holes.amd slapped the whole thing together.   Going to return the tools tomorrow and grab a grease gun. I'll see if it works tomorrow. Any grease guns that don't suck at a price that makes sense if I'm going to use it very rarely?
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Jan 18, 2021 03:29
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honda whisperer posted:First, let me say there's no reason to make this part on a 5 axis machine. It's a perfect 3 axis job. Just because you can, doesn't mean you shouldn't.  Pretty cool.honda whisperer posted:Any grease guns that don't suck at a price that makes sense if I'm going to use it very rarely? I asked my dad this after having a couple cheap and lovely ones and he suggested "they all leak, just get a bucket to store it in." So that's where I'm at.
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jan 18, 2021 |
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Jan 18, 2021 03:58
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Lincoln grease gun, I think Kastein recommended it a while ago. Looks like it's $30 on Amazon.
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Jan 18, 2021 21:28
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Suburban Dad posted:Just because you can, doesn't mean you shouldn't. True! Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Lincoln grease gun, I think Kastein recommended it a while ago. Looks like it's $30 on Amazon. Awesome, thanks. Got the rotors drilled 4x100 today. Got home to see if they fit and check the calipers.  gently caress. Edit: looks like all the 88-00 civic if it's ex/si do this of it's not do that posts actually mean 92-00 ex/si and 88-00 not ex/si. Glad I bought cheap rotors and didn't mill the calipers yet. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Jan 19, 2021 |
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Jan 19, 2021 02:14
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