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H110Hawk posted:Do you have a non-split-tunnel VPN you can use? One that routes everything through it. Either corporate or something like nordvpn (do something close to you.) Test by going to here: http://whatismyip.akamai.com/ , then connecting to your vpn and reloading. I bet your problem vanishes. If it doesn't, you have something else strange going on, if it does, tell tech support that. Need another file to test? Use this: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO it's 5.7GB and you can try again all you want. Thanks for the help! Unfortunately I think I was confusing in my first post. I'm at home and this is just my home internet (but I'm trying to download a file my company sent using WeTransfer). I don't have any VPN or anything like that. Just residential fiber internet and I'm connected to it through the Plume wifi pod. When I mentioned Tech Support, I just meant my ISP provider. Downloading a Windows ISO now to see.
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Jan 7, 2021 05:45
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BonoMan posted:Thanks for the help! Unfortunately I think I was confusing in my first post. I'm at home and this is just my home internet (but I'm trying to download a file my company sent using WeTransfer). I don't have any VPN or anything like that. Just residential fiber internet and I'm connected to it through the Plume wifi pod. When I mentioned Tech Support, I just meant my ISP provider. Yeah I got it, was hoping you had access to one. Presuming your isp blames everything else I would ask work for help. The VPN helps pave over anything nefarious or poorly configured on the isp side.
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Jan 7, 2021 05:53
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah I got it, was hoping you had access to one. Presuming your isp blames everything else I would ask work for help. The VPN helps pave over anything nefarious or poorly configured on the isp side. We have a whole new IT infrastructure coming in (including a legit VPN) because we finally are hiring a pretty awesome local MSP... but that will be a while. I have a machine at work I google remote desktop into (for simple things to be done), but what would be the best option for setting up a simple temporary VPN?
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Jan 7, 2021 16:36
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Martian Manfucker posted:Does this MU-MIMO stuff have any effect on wired (via MOCA) connections on a wifi router or is it strictly a wireless thing? It's a WiFi thing.
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Jan 7, 2021 21:48
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What's the best way to enable management/access of my network from mobile? I have a UDM but I'd love to do all always on Wireguard or similar, but unsure of the best architecture.
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Jan 8, 2021 01:10
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Gyshall posted:What's the best way to enable management/access of my network from mobile? I have a UDM but I'd love to do all always on Wireguard or similar, but unsure of the best architecture. Is the question how to manage the devices or how to manage access to the network? If the former, then UISP works well enough though supposedly you’re supposed to only be using it with 10+ devices. I’d happily pay a small fee to use it with my 3. If you’re talking access, then WireGuard is nice. If you don’t want to fiddle as much, you could pay for TailScale which is basically WireGuard but with a better interface to managing and provisioning clients.
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Jan 8, 2021 01:46
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The internet (coaxial) cable connection in my house is located in the middle of the house. I have a SURFboard SB6141 modem and a Linksys WRT54G router. The office is on one end of the house and has 3 desktop PCs and a wireless printer. My wife and I are working from home and unable to have Zoom calls simultaneously, and I thought that maybe having a wired connection to the desktop PCs will help with that issue - if only one of use is having a Zoom call then there are no issues. How would I identify if the bottleneck truly is the Wifi (i.e., I should go to a wired solution)? If the wired solution is what I should go for, from some research it looks like the optimal way would be to run ethernet cable directly to the office, and then use a switch in the office to connect all 3 PCs. Unfortunately there is not an easy way to run the ethernet cable through the walls etc, so this is an option of last resort. Looking through the OP led me to powerline networking - would I just use the powerline unit in the office and connect the switch in the office to the powerline unit?
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Jan 8, 2021 19:49
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Here is the test for whether or not your router is the bottleneck: a) Is your router literally, actually over seven years old at this point b) is your router actually the goddamn WRT54G? If you answered yes to either of these questions, your router is probably the bottleneck. Like, dude, I know the WRT54G was the poo poo when it came out, because of its ability to be flashed with open-source 3rd party firmware that made it awesome, but time moves in a linear fashion and the advancement of technology proceeds apace. I don't know what you're presently paying for as far as internet goes, but I am pretty sure that whatever it is, your router is not capable of actually providing the full bandwidth on any of it, and the WRT54G has been obsolete like... since 2010. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jan 8, 2021 |
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Jan 8, 2021 20:03
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Here is the test for whether or not your router is the bottleneck: Recommendations for a router I should be using then? And the modem was bought 5 years ago, does that need upgrading as well?
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Jan 8, 2021 20:15
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Jose Cuervo posted:Recommendations for a router I should be using then? And the modem was bought 5 years ago, does that need upgrading as well? Literally anything made this decade will be light years better. TPLink Archer series are often recommended for cheap and decent routers (see the OP, even outdated info there is a decade newer than your tech). The modem may be ok, depending on what speed you are paying for from your ISP.
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Jan 8, 2021 23:02
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thiazi posted:Literally anything made this decade will be light years better. TPLink Archer series are often recommended for cheap and decent routers (see the OP, even outdated info there is a decade newer than your tech). The modem may be ok, depending on what speed you are paying for from your ISP. I am paying for the 'up to 300Mbps download' speed. Looking at the first two TPLink Archer series linked in the OP leads to products that don't appear to be being sold any more. I then visited the TPLink store on Amazon and they have the TPLink AC1750 (Archer A7) as a recommended router. Is this on par with the TPLink Archer C5 or C7 recommended in the OP? Secondly, the PCs in the office have the following wifi adapters: 1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086Y77FM5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMUN8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Are these also acting as bottlenecks?
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Jan 9, 2021 03:10
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Jose Cuervo posted:I am paying for the 'up to 300Mbps download' speed. Yeah the USB adapters might be a little bit of a bottleneck but your current issues are the router for sure. I'd pick up the A7 or A8. Once you've replaced the router then consider higher bandwidth dongles if you feel the need. The current ones you have will not max out your 300 Mbit connection (I know it says 600 but that's liar numbers), but should be sufficient to do zoom meetings and whatnot. If you want to upgrade everything at once you could get some new wifi adapters at the same time although they're not holding you back as much as the WRT54G.
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Jan 9, 2021 04:07
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Rexxed posted:Yeah the USB adapters might be a little bit of a bottleneck but your current issues are the router for sure. I'd pick up the A7 or A8. Once you've replaced the router then consider higher bandwidth dongles if you feel the need. The current ones you have will not max out your 300 Mbit connection (I know it says 600 but that's liar numbers), but should be sufficient to do zoom meetings and whatnot. If you want to upgrade everything at once you could get some new wifi adapters at the same time although they're not holding you back as much as the WRT54G. Thanks, picked up the A8.
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Jan 9, 2021 04:24
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Out of morbid curiosity, what version WRT54G do you have? It should say on the sticker on the bottom somewhere, like v1, v2, or whatever.
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Jan 9, 2021 07:17
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I'm running a USG and a couple of Unifi AP's at home, the USG is connected to a standard unmanaged (non-Unifi) switch. I set up a separate VLAN network and a WAP pointed to that VLAN for a Wyze camera I just bought, with my ultimate goal of eventually moving all of my wireless IoT stuff onto that network. The guide I was following said to set up the DHCP server on the IoT network, but I'm already running DHCP on the other network, so I turned it off and did all the testing just using static IP setup on the laptop I was using for testing. The Wyze camera has no ability to set a static IP, so I turned on the DHCP server, got it set up again, and shut off the server. So far, the camera continues to work, so as long as it doesn't attempt to obtain a new IP address, it should be fine. Now in the guides I found for this, they are all running Unifi switches and direct wired traffic to the appropriate VLAN via the switch ports. I have a standard dumb switch so I can't do that. Am I correct that having two DHCP servers (with a bunch of wired clients) is going to be a problem? I can keep it off on the VLAN network I set up, but it really seems like having it running is going to make setting up all these IoT devices easier. If it's running, is it going to start handing out addresses to devices that request them? This whole VLAN thing for me is completely new, my networking know-how up until recently was basically "buy switches and plug stuff in". Edit: talked with a buddy of mine who’s much better at this kind of stuff than I am. He confirmed I need a managed switch to segment my IoT stuff from the regular wired devices. Until I do that, I definitely shouldn’t be running two DHCP servers. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 9, 2021 23:08
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Jose Cuervo posted:Thanks, picked up the A8. If it shits its pants get a Mikrotik HAP AC2.
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Jan 10, 2021 00:04
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Upgraded to gigabit with AT&T. Using their own modem/wifi combo (I know I know) because they are waiving the rental fee for 18 months. Modem is hardwired to my gaming pc and I get around 950mbps. My laptop, a windows-running 2013 MacBook, gets 875mbps hardwired with a USB 3.0-Ethernet adapter. Fine; fair enough because 875 is still magnitudes faster than any internet I’ve ever had and I’m not gonna bother about that. My roommates 2018 ASUS laptop, however, gets 350 when hardwired with the adapter. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what’s going on. His laptop is fairly midrange for an office machine. Some A12 quad core AMD Chip, 16gb ddr4 ram, a 1tb SSD. I know specs don’t really matter too much here, but just giving background. I tried updating drivers, nuking his windows install, but no dice. Some thoughts: 1) some network setting windows is adjusting that I’m unaware of? 2) some arcane BIOS setting I overlooked? 3) does the age of his network chip matter if I’m using a 3.0 USB dongle? 4) some Google searching brought up this TCP/IP optimizer program that solved some reddior’s similar problem. Is that worth a shot? 5)should I put Ubuntu on a stick, run an environment on the laptop, run a speed test there?
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Jan 10, 2021 21:02
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buglord posted:Upgraded to gigabit with AT&T. Using their own modem/wifi combo (I know I know) because they are waiving the rental fee for 18 months. Modem is hardwired to my gaming pc and I get around 950mbps. Some network chipsets are just poo poo. It’ll be the biggest influencer, also will impact if it’s USB to Ethernet dongle. You could try the Ubuntu thing but I’d bet money it won’t matter.
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Jan 10, 2021 21:45
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Yeah I was wondering if the network chip kinda sucked. Its a Realtek 8822BE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCIE. I did some googling on it and couldn't find any maximum theoretical speeds that chip uses. Is that to be expected? Is it possible drop in a new m.2 chip into its place and download the respective drivers for it? e: god dang it ubuntu was twice as fast wtf. buglord fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 21:52
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buglord posted:My roommates 2018 ASUS laptop, however, gets 350 when hardwired with the adapter. buglord posted:Yeah I was wondering if the network chip kinda sucked. Its a Realtek 8822BE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCIE. So, uh, which is it?
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Jan 10, 2021 22:22
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See that’s the thing. If I’m plugging into the laptop hardwired, is it still interfacing with that Realtek network chip?
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Jan 10, 2021 22:36
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buglord posted:Yeah I was wondering if the network chip kinda sucked. Its a Realtek 8822BE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCIE. I did some googling on it and couldn't find any maximum theoretical speeds that chip uses. Is that to be expected? Is it possible drop in a new m.2 chip into its place and download the respective drivers for it? Just to clarify, Ubuntu was twice as fast when connected by ethernet, using the same cable?
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Jan 10, 2021 22:40
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Yeah about twice as fast. Same cable, adapter. Still not anywhere near 1gbps, but enough of a change to throw my “it’s a hardware issue” idea out the window.
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Jan 10, 2021 22:47
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buglord posted:Yeah about twice as fast. Same cable, adapter. Still not anywhere near 1gbps, but enough of a change to throw my “it’s a hardware issue” idea out the window. So that were clear, you disabled WiFi when trying the hardwire test, right?
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Jan 10, 2021 22:56
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buglord posted:See that’s the thing. If I’m plugging into the laptop hardwired, is it still interfacing with that Realtek network chip? Nope. Unless the wire goes through that adapter it's separate. There is some ethernet chip on your board handling things.
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Jan 10, 2021 22:57
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I'm having my house wired with <10 drops of Cat6A, terminating into a closet in the basement. I need recommendations for:
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Jan 11, 2021 00:06
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buglord posted:Yeah about twice as fast. Same cable, adapter. Still not anywhere near 1gbps, but enough of a change to throw my “it’s a hardware issue” idea out the window. A couple thoughts: See what Ubuntu is showing the ethernet adapter as - running lspci from the command line should do it. Check to see what Windows is showing, and see if there is a mismatch or if newer drivers are available for Windows. Another thing to try would be running Windows in Safe Mode to see if there is something loading which is crippling the throughput on a normal boot.
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Jan 11, 2021 00:19
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Out of morbid curiosity, what version WRT54G do you have? It should say on the sticker on the bottom somewhere, like v1, v2, or whatever. Version 6. On a related note I set up the Archer A8 router today and my speedtest went from 8Mbps download / 11Mbps upload to 75 Mbps download and 12Mbps upload!! Yikes!
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Jan 11, 2021 00:37
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Jose Cuervo posted:Version 6. Yeah, you should have a big quality of life improvement. When I worked for an ISP we warned people about the WRT54G version 5, as it would frequently simply refuse to work on our system. This was in 2006. You just jumped ahead a couple generations in networking technology.
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Jan 11, 2021 00:43
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Turd Eater posted:I'm having my house wired with <10 drops of Cat6A, terminating into a closet in the basement. I need recommendations for: For switch: I like my EdgeSwitch 10XP all though it’s 1Gb. Maybe something like the EdgeSwitch 16 XG? For router: I like my EdgeRouter-4. For AP: Unifi AP’s? Maybe the Pros or nanoHD variants.
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Jan 11, 2021 02:23
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rufius posted:For switch: I like my EdgeSwitch 10XP all though it’s 1Gb. Maybe something like the EdgeSwitch 16 XG? Thanks, I'm looking around Unifi's offerings now. To keep things clean, I'd like to have some number of ports with PoE, one for each access point and perhaps for a camera or two. How do I allocate my choices between routing, switching, and PoE? A separate small PoE switch connected to a router/switch combo and I'm good to go?
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Jan 11, 2021 03:44
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Turd Eater posted:Thanks, I'm looking around Unifi's offerings now. You could try and find a 10Gbe switch that also has PoE but honestly, I’d just get a smaller one like the EdgeSwitch 10XP for that. Or if you don’t care about a manager switch, then something cheaper with PoE.
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Jan 11, 2021 03:49
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rufius posted:You could try and find a 10Gbe switch that also has PoE but honestly, I’d just get a smaller one like the EdgeSwitch 10XP for that. Or if you don’t care about a manager switch, then something cheaper with PoE. Thanks. Turd Eater fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 04:41
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TP-Link Archer C5/7/9 still the crowd favorite, as per the OP? Friend got upgraded to a gigabit but I don’t think he’s the type to go down the Unifi hole headfirst like I did. e: That’s gotta be outdated, those models don’t even seem to be a thing anymore. Here’s the basic callout for the friend in question: quote:Mediacom upgraded us to gigabit download and my wireless router won't handle anything near that. I need at least 4 ethernet ports and I guess having a second channel (?) for guests (if that ever happens again) Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 17:42
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Bad Munki posted:TP-Link Archer C5/7/9 still the crowd favorite, as per the OP? Friend got upgraded to a gigabit but I don’t think he’s the type to go down the Unifi hole headfirst like I did. The Archer line is still recommended around here for value-conscious, just get the current models (A#, I think) and should meet those requirements, though getting actual gigabit over wifi is an unrealistic expectation except possibly when sitting right next to the AP.
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Jan 11, 2021 18:17
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Turd Eater posted:I'm having my house wired with <10 drops of Cat6A, terminating into a closet in the basement. I need recommendations for: Quick reply, so I don't have exact product links for you (keep meaning to put this up on my wiki), but:
Latter two are mounted in a StarTech 2U vertical rack, and then the rest of the equipment is a wall-mount 6U rack. I posted here awhile ago trying to find the perfect rack, and the 2U vertical + 6U traditional worked out great.
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Jan 11, 2021 18:22
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thiazi posted:though getting actual gigabit over wifi is an unrealistic expectation except possibly when sitting right next to the AP. Of course. I think that's more for the hard-wired devices, and whether the device itself can actually push 1gbps upstream all together.
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Jan 11, 2021 18:48
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Bad Munki posted:Of course. I think that's more for the hard-wired devices, and whether the device itself can actually push 1gbps upstream all together. Yeah, any modern gigabit router with an integrated switch should have no problem with that.
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Jan 11, 2021 21:07
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Does anyone have experience with the Arris BGW210 used for AT&T fiber installations? I have a Turris Omnia I'd like to use for Wi-Fi. The BGW has an IP passthrough setting and I'm wondering if that's what I'll want to enable to turn the BGW into a bare-minimum gateway. I'd like all the LAN and Wi-Fi traffic to go through the Turris. The BGW admin portal info pane defines IP passthrough as: quote:Passthrough: Allows the device's public IP address to be assigned to a single LAN client. There may be situations where Passthrough is not allowed. It seems like this feature singlehandedly relegates the BGW to performing WAN duties.
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Jan 11, 2021 21:14
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Ubiquiti Networks account management infrastructure was compromised. Pack it up folks: https://community.ui.com/questions/Account-Notification/96467115-49b5-4dd6-9517-f8cdbf6906f3 From what I can tell, your gear isn't at risk. This is more the stuff related to the forums and/or your payment info associated with your store account. EDIT: Actually, looks like it would share the same account as your UISP/UNMS stuff. So uhh, maybe change your pw and add 2FA if you didn't have it. rufius fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 21:17
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