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devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Warbird posted:

Way ahead of you there. They’ll be out tomorrow afternoon. I’m a bit torn whether it would be worth just having them replace the hose and busted head, if possible, or asking to change that to a quarter turn ball. The latter would be easier to service if needed but it may just be less hassle to let them put another of the same in and not think about it until we sell the place or rent it out.


This stupid bidet is killing me. Stupid metal t pipe is murdering the cheap plastic that makes up all the other plastic connectors.

Quarter turn, all the way. Get them to replace both while they're there.

With the base fee for getting them out there, there's really no extra cost for just soldering on a quarter turn. This is basic plumbing poo poo, shouldn't take them long at all.

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Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Long shot, but are there any Colorado plumbers in here? I'm possibly installing a bathroom in a cabin (with help) to convert it into a living space and I'm looking at the code for the venting and I want to make sure I'm not misunderstanding this part about venting out of the wall. The cabin has a metal roof that would be a pain in the rear end to get through compared to a wall under the eaves, and it looks like as long as it's the proper distance from any windows or air vents and the proper height above the ground it seems like that's acceptable as long as I have a screen or something to keep birds and chipmunks out. I get the feeling that being confident about understanding code based on a couple sections is like being confident about understanding the law based on a couple sections.

Sections 903.5 and 903.6
Sounds like you can go out the side, but it still has to go higher than the soffit/roof inn order for fumes to dissipate. And it's going to look terrible. I recommend going vertical through the roof, it's not hard to drill

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




"Oh huh, there's a pinhole in my sink drain"

Has, over the course of a week, turned into "welp I guess I'm ripping out all of the copper plumbing in my house and replacing it with PVC since poo poo's already this hosed"


Pray for me.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Sorry if I am asking in the wrong thread, but thought this might be appropriate:

I just bought this pump, and it's leaking around the area in red circled. What sort of sealant/adhesive should I use to seal it and prevent it from leaking? It's a pump to pump car shampoo out of a 5Litre container.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Steakandchips posted:

Sorry if I am asking in the wrong thread, but thought this might be appropriate:

I just bought this pump, and it's leaking around the area in red circled. What sort of sealant/adhesive should I use to seal it and prevent it from leaking? It's a pump to pump car shampoo out of a 5Litre container.



You can just put whatever caulk you have lying around on it.

I don't even understand why the two rings are separate pieces. Does the top ring need to unscrew or something? Is it tightened down if so?

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Thanks mate!

I shall look to see if we have any caulk.

The top ring does not need to unscrew at all, but it does twist, for no apparent purpose. It is not tightened or untightened. It's a stupid design.

This pump is the only 52mm one I could find online in the UK.

:(

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Steakandchips posted:

Sorry if I am asking in the wrong thread, but thought this might be appropriate:

I just bought this pump, and it's leaking around the area in red circled. What sort of sealant/adhesive should I use to seal it and prevent it from leaking? It's a pump to pump car shampoo out of a 5Litre container.



Does that larger piece slide up over the smaller one/up the shaft? Because that looks like something with an O-ring in it. Which might just have slid out of place.

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM
I'm adding a new horizontal drain branch to my house for a full bath and laundry room. I'm adding drain plumbing to a floor cavity and to a new interior wall. 

Is the normal process to complete the drain plumbing that's in the floor cavity, have an inspector out, and then put down subfloor to build the new interior wall? 

I've asked the Building and Zoning Office but I figured I would ask you guys as well.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hashtag Banterzone posted:

I'm adding a new horizontal drain branch to my house for a full bath and laundry room. I'm adding drain plumbing to a floor cavity and to a new interior wall. 

Is the normal process to complete the drain plumbing that's in the floor cavity, have an inspector out, and then put down subfloor to build the new interior wall? 

I've asked the Building and Zoning Office but I figured I would ask you guys as well.

That's entirely up to your AHJ. Some are going to be more reasonable than others about things like this and not demand to see every last inch of the plumbing in order to sign off on it. How reasonable they will be often has a lot to do with your previous work that they have experience with.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Motronic posted:

Does that larger piece slide up over the smaller one/up the shaft?

It does not, but thank you for suggesting a possible fix :)

Hashtag Banterzone
Dec 8, 2005


Lifetime Winner of the willkill4food Honorary Bad Posting Award in PWM

Motronic posted:

That's entirely up to your AHJ. Some are going to be more reasonable than others about things like this and not demand to see every last inch of the plumbing in order to sign off on it. How reasonable they will be often has a lot to do with your previous work that they have experience with.

Thanks, I'll see what they say

Bioshuffle
Feb 10, 2011

No good deed goes unpunished



Is it normal for water to leak from this area? I just replaced this part and noticed there's some water dripping down. The dripping goes away when the water shuts off, but I'm wondering if it's something I should be concerned about.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I just bought my first home, yay! It was from an adamant DIYer and....there needs to be some work done. The previous owner has put cold water on the left and hot on the right in every sink except one, and my weekend project is to undo that.

Howeverrrrrrrr the kitchen sink seems to have a 5/8" copper pipe feeding it where all the other ones have 3/8" pipes feeding them. Finding new, flexible supply lines for the 3/8" ones has been easy, but I can't find any 5/8" ones.

It's my first plumbing project - does anyone have an Ace Hardware, Lowes, or Home Depot or anything link to a fitting for potable water that will work? As far as I can tell, previous owner just ran copper all the way to the faucet instead of using a more usual residential supply line.

I've got plumbing solder and the other lines in my cart, I'm just stumped here. Thanks!

e: I think a 5/8" stop valve with a 3/8" or 1/2" outlet will do what I need (on each side)

NewFatMike fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 27, 2021

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

The cartridge in the downstairs shower seems to have failed last night, because the water wouldn't turn off after I was done with a shower. There isn't a fixture shutoff so I turned off the house water. When I fix it today, should I also turn off the water coming from the water heater? I'm hesitant to do it unless I need to in case it's like all the other shutoff valves in this house (broken) and I end up with an even bigger mess.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BonerGhost posted:

The cartridge in the downstairs shower seems to have failed last night, because the water wouldn't turn off after I was done with a shower. There isn't a fixture shutoff so I turned off the house water. When I fix it today, should I also turn off the water coming from the water heater? I'm hesitant to do it unless I need to in case it's like all the other shutoff valves in this house (broken) and I end up with an even bigger mess.

The water valve to your house is (should be) before the hot water heater. So no, it's not necessary. Just check from another working faucet that both are off before you get started.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Gonna bump this one (just this time, I promise) in case anyone has ideas because the smell... it continues:

Trabant posted:

Hello thread. I have a relatively minor but annoying issue, hoping you can help me troubleshoot:

Our master bathroom sink (well, two side-by-side) produces a... sewage-y smell when the tap is first opened. Maybe for a few seconds when the water first starts flowing, after which it's fine. This happens when the tap hasn't been used for a while, e.g. first thing in the morning.

My first thought was that the trap needs cleaning, but I did that earlier this year when I replaced the faucets. Or, to be more precise, I cleaned the vertical pipe leading from the drain to the trap and the J-bend part of the trap. I did not go beyond -- to be honest, it didn't occur to me that the outlet/waste arm could/should be cleaned as well.

All that said, it sounds like my re-install of the trap is allowing the gases to flow back somehow. I didn't think I changed the dimensions, but I'm coming up blank with anything else. Any other ideas?

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

We just got all our cast iron replaced by PCV, and one thing I noticed is that you can hear the water movement in the PVC a lot more. Not a problem when we are upstairs, but when we are in our basement (which houses the utility room where all the pipes are) you can definitely hear it pretty loud when someone flushes or runs a sink. Is there an acoustic wrap or something I can put on my main drain pipes?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Ah, the one drawbrack of PVC over cast iron...

There really isn't much you can do.

They do sell a PVC pipe sprayed with, basically, rubberized undercoating that helps. No help to you.

You can try wrapping it with sound deadener/ metalized duct insulation, or even standard insulation, but I don't recomend it in case you have to get back at those pipes for any reason.

If space and the current set-up permit, you can frame it in & cover it with drywall. It's better than nothing.

Honestly, after a few weeks, your ear becomes inured to it & you won't hear it any more except once in a blue moon, late at night.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
There is duct insulation that comes in the roll and you basically wrap a pipe with it, then use aluminum tape to secure to itself. It helps. If you building a soffit, try using Homasote sheets, then drywall. It's pretty decent at sound insulation

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

My other option is to get a decent door and just close in the room. Probably will do that first because we need to do it anyway. Thanks y’all.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

PainterofCrap posted:

Ah, the one drawbrack of PVC over cast iron...

There really isn't much you can do.

It's become trendy again to use cast iron for the vertical waste stacks and runs that go over living spaces for that reason.

Someone 40 years in the future is going to be cursing the rear end in a top hat that used cast iron when indestructible materials have existed for decades. All because they didn't want to hear some divebombing turds.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

B-Nasty posted:

It's become trendy again to use cast iron for the vertical waste stacks and runs that go over living spaces for that reason.

Someone 40 years in the future is going to be cursing the rear end in a top hat that used cast iron when indestructible materials have existed for decades. All because they didn't want to hear some divebombing turds.

You mean 90+ years? Cast iron lasts a very very long time.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

SpartanIvy posted:

You mean 90+ years? Cast iron lasts a very very long time.

It can, but that's going to vary significantly. Modern cast iron should be better than the old mold-poured stuff, but time will tell.

I'd be more worried about all the Ferncos used with cast iron pipes. Nothing will outlast a solvent welded PVC pipe.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

B-Nasty posted:

It can, but that's going to vary significantly. Modern cast iron should be better than the old mold-poured stuff, but time will tell.

I'd be more worried about all the Ferncos used with cast iron pipes. Nothing will outlast a solvent welded PVC pipe.

Yeah you've got a good point with the ferncos. I doubt hardly anyone is still joining them with lead and oakum anymore. I imagine using caulk or a fernco is going to create a weakpoint.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

B-Nasty posted:

It can, but that's going to vary significantly. Modern cast iron should be better than the old mold-poured stuff, but time will tell.

I'd be more worried about all the Ferncos used with cast iron pipes. Nothing will outlast a solvent welded PVC pipe.

If anyone is putting a fernco on a new cast iron install they need to be fired.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Motronic posted:

If anyone is putting a fernco on a new cast iron install they need to be fired.

Matt Risinger over here with more Ferncos than pipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWwMslb-MTA&t=76s

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dunno who that is, but "Austin Plumbing" is doing it the lazy way. At that point just use PVC and do something dump like spray foam it in.

I'm gonna guess they don't know what a pipe threader is, how to use one, why, etc.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Also one of my toilets just runs if you look at it and I was thinking about picking up this Danco replacement. Seems straightforward enough and I like the dual flush option. Anyone use one personally or have experience with them? I’ve replaced flush mechanisms before.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

B-Nasty posted:

It's become trendy again to use cast iron for the vertical waste stacks and runs that go over living spaces for that reason.

Someone 40 years in the future is going to be cursing the rear end in a top hat that used cast iron when indestructible materials have existed for decades. All because they didn't want to hear some divebombing turds.

I wonder if there could be a product that's essentially PVC interior and cast iron exterior. Seems like it's the best of both worlds!

Meanwhile I'm over here with 100% copper main drains.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I think PVC with a thick rubber exterior sleeve would probably achieve a similar, if not superior sound deadening effect to cast iron.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

For the price of installing cast iron, you could probably buy those thick butyl mats (e.g. Dynamat, used for sound deadening your Honda Civic with 15" sub woofers) and wrap the PVC. Stuff the joist bay with rockwool to round it out, and those noisy turds don't stand a chance!

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Dishwasher didn't drain (first time this has happened, lived here for a year). Looked under the sink and the drain line didn't have a high loop, so I set that up, but I have quite a bit of extra hose below the loop before it hits the garbage disposal. Is it ok to have extra hose there? I suspect it's so the dishwasher can be pulled out without detaching the drain hose, but it seems excessive.



After I took that picture I moved the drain hose below the outlet, not sure if that matters or not but it gives me more peace of mind to have the water under the electric.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Dishwasher didn't drain (first time this has happened, lived here for a year). Looked under the sink and the drain line didn't have a high loop, so I set that up, but I have quite a bit of extra hose below the loop before it hits the garbage disposal. Is it ok to have extra hose there? I suspect it's so the dishwasher can be pulled out without detaching the drain hose, but it seems excessive.



After I took that picture I moved the drain hose below the outlet, not sure if that matters or not but it gives me more peace of mind to have the water under the electric.

Can you spread that excess hose out so it runs around the top perimeter of the cabinet, and isn't coiled like that?

kaizier
Jul 21, 2004

I need some help with plumbing. I need to install a new drain vent for my plumbing. I was wondering were I should connect the vent. I have attached a picture of my dain lines. I have very simple plumbing. Should I hook it off the main drain leaving the basement?
https://ibb.co/41P7Xfn

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

kaizier posted:

I need some help with plumbing. I need to install a new drain vent for my plumbing. I was wondering were I should connect the vent. I have attached a picture of my dain lines. I have very simple plumbing. Should I hook it off the main drain leaving the basement?
https://ibb.co/41P7Xfn
I would strongly recommend you get a plumber to deconstruct this jungle gym and do everything correctly

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

kaizier posted:

I need some help with plumbing. I need to install a new drain vent for my plumbing. I was wondering were I should connect the vent. I have attached a picture of my dain lines. I have very simple plumbing. Should I hook it off the main drain leaving the basement?
https://ibb.co/41P7Xfn

Typically your main stack would be doing most of the work through the roof and you’d have AAVs at the sinks that need them because they’re too far from the vent, not just tacked on somewhere in the basement. That whole thing is hire a plumber territory.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

kaizier posted:

I need some help with plumbing. I need to install a new drain vent for my plumbing. I was wondering were I should connect the vent. I have attached a picture of my dain lines. I have very simple plumbing. Should I hook it off the main drain leaving the basement?
https://ibb.co/41P7Xfn

I'm the structural spray foam

Is that nearly vertical pipe on the left sloped away from the main drain?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



kaizier posted:

I need some help with plumbing. I need to install a new drain vent for my plumbing. I was wondering were I should connect the vent. I have attached a picture of my dain lines. I have very simple plumbing. Should I hook it off the main drain leaving the basement?
https://ibb.co/41P7Xfn

Yikes.



If you are capable of building a proper, roof-terminating vent stack, then you can fix all of the regrettable poo poo going on.

I apologize (but in tiny font) if this is your handiwork; if so, I also commend the 'ol college try. Can't learn if you don't try.

I would re-route everything to Pipe #1 and install a 4X2X4 tee as high up as possible, with the 2" end vertically up, and tie a 2" vertical line on up the wall & out through the roof for your vent stack.

e: also, that elbow that terminates into the side of the 4" with the cleanout the heads out through the wall? It's angled down, allowing wastewater & crud to collect at the elbow...and IIRC you can't use short-90s for those turns any more.

edit 2: At Gumby, which I'm shocked is not leaking, you have a 4" tied to a 3" with a reduction coupler. That is a no-no.

It is clear that whomever did this, did not do a dry run & build the thing out first before gluing. Nearly every joint is cock-eyed and/or under some type of lateral tension.

OR

Nitrox posted:

I would strongly recommend you get a plumber to deconstruct this jungle gym and do everything correctly

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Feb 1, 2021

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

At the top of the picture, is that NM stapled under the joists without a running board?

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Brennanite
Feb 14, 2009
I am trying to fix a dripping faucet, but I cannot for the life of me get the old seat and spring out. I've tried screwdrivers of various sizes and heads, allen wrenches, fingernails, etc. I can't even get the lip to move or lift. Help me fix my faucet before I fix it by declaring the bathroom sink to be an unnecessary luxury item.

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