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Hypnolobster posted:Yeah, extruder grip on filament is incredibly strong, and it'll pull filament from pretty much anywhere. Fancy filament rollers are cool but they're not generally necessary. Consistent drag is preferable to tons of bearings and unconstrained filament that makes the spool free-roll for a moment and then stop, and then repeat over and over. I noticed an improvement in extrusion consistency after switching to a bearing based filament roller. I do need to make a small guide to prevent it from unrolling too much on new rolls, but it's still much preferable to what I had before.
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Jan 22, 2021 02:17
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Any youtube Fusion360 tutorials you guys would recommend?
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Jan 22, 2021 02:25
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jeff8472 posted:Any youtube Fusion360 tutorials you guys would recommend? Lars Christensen has a ton of videos on it. I think he was hired by autodesk this year to make this kind of thing, too. I watched a couple of his to get started but I mostly search for specific topics if I need to do something I'm not sure how to do, or want to use a tool and don't know what all of the options are. https://www.youtube.com/user/cadcamstuff
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Jan 22, 2021 03:29
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Thanks...I used Autocad and 3dsmax a bit 20 years ago, but don't remember anything about them. I hope some of the principals of cad come back to me as I use this.
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Jan 22, 2021 03:33
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Nerobro, I would appreciate your advice on a problem I'm having with the Geeetech. I'm trying to get everything up and running, and I immediately ran into a big problem. Using the interface on the printer itself, I used the auto home function and the Y and Z are fine. But the X axis runs smack into the X axis endstop and keeps going. The motor grinds and grinds and the whole printer starts to walk across the countertop. This is distressing! Do you have any advice? All I've found is a suggestion that I check the connection, which of course I've done and it's not helped. Plus side: the Z axis is seemingly running smoothly, as is the Y axis, and I ran the heated bed and extruder up to operating temperatures without the whole contraption bursting into flames. So, ya know, baby steps. Oh, also, I'm using Repetier Host because I don't know how to get PrusaSlicer to recognize the printer. I can get Repetier to tell me it's connected to the printer, but that's it. If I try to manually increment the motors, nothing happens. If I try to have it heat the bed and extruder, Repetier seems to believe that it is, but it doesn't actually heat up. Very confusing and frustrating. I feel like an idiot (which is normal) but I wish I knew what I should be trying. If not Repetier, what software should I be using and how should I get started on making that software interface with the printer. Mac OS Big Sur if that matters.
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Jan 22, 2021 04:18
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I need to get my resin wash/post-cure workflow going. How long do you guys typically let stuff sit in the alcohol bath/do you use a single bath or a multi-step process with a rinse bath / what does a water-washable workflow look like in comparison? For a baseline the form labs post cure defaults are 20m in Alcohol with agitation followed by 60m UV exposure (in a heated chamber)
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Jan 22, 2021 09:45
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jeff8472 posted:Thanks...I used Autocad and 3dsmax a bit 20 years ago, but don't remember anything about them. I hope some of the principals of cad come back to me as I use this. Never used Autocad much but it's completey different than 3DS since you never work directly with individual polygons or vertices so I had to learn pretty much everything from scratch. Thre is some overlap like extrusion, chamfering, etc. though and overall it's not very difficult to pick up.
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Jan 22, 2021 10:23
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Rapulum_Dei posted:For a baseline the form labs post cure defaults are 20m in Alcohol with agitation followed by 60m UV exposure (in a heated chamber) thanks. i've got one of those 50w UV arrays + a turntable, gonna stick em in a foil-lined shoebox, the usual first-post-cure setup. wash n cure looks sweet but i won't be able to justify the price any time soon unrelated: down the line i'm gonna get into making mechanical part patterns with fairly tight tolerances involved, so i'll have to look into low-shrinkage, high-detail engineering resins, probably but not necessarily sth ceramic-filled. does anybody have any experiences here, or a particular product that's well-regarded? specialty boutique resins seem like a total crapshoot wrt product quality and documentation/support, and these resins are expensive enough that you gotta drop like $200 to find out for yourself. idk if this specific product is any good, vendor is whatever came up on google https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/collections/all-resin/products/fun-to-do-industrial-blend-natural?variant=31597827817575 but it seems like a good compromise; an engineering-geared resin with somewhat improved detail/finish, and the heat resistance i'll need to cast fusible tooling alloys directly onto prints, for $75/l instead of $150-300 for the ceramic resins im seeing also whoa Tethon 3D Vitrolite® Glass-Ceramic Resin, 1 liter A photo-curable glass ceramic resin for SLA or DLP 3D printing. Low kiln fire for high strength, high density, low porosity. Glassy white fired surface. Vitrolite is a photocurable polymer resin for use in SLA or DLP printers. Vitrolite is a glass ceramic with high strength, low porosity/high density and thermal shock tolerance. It does not conduct heat or electricity and is chemical resistant. Vitrolite kiln fires at a relatively low temperature and results in a white glassy surface appearance. between this sort of thing and sinterable metal resins, i didnt realize i had access to the really silly feedstocks, that seemed more FDM's deal but i guess not Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jan 22, 2021 |
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Jan 22, 2021 20:56
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Rapulum_Dei posted:For a baseline the form labs post cure defaults are 20m in Alcohol with agitation followed by 60m UV exposure (in a heated chamber) That sounds .... excessive. My workflow is I put the prints in a pre-rinse chamber (pickle jar) and wash by hand (agitating) for 2-3 minutes. Then I put it in my 2nd wash chamber (anycubic wash-n-cure) for 6 minutes with pretty clean IPA - not cloudy - when it gets cloudy I filter it by dropping a 1 micron pool filter pad I cut to fit the tray and run it a few times (about 20 minutes). Let it dry for an hour or so then cure it in the Wash N Cure for 2-4 minutes. Flip the part and do another 2-4 minutes. if there are a lot of thin parts like swords and hair, I go on the lower end, if it's a thick piece or the resin is particularly pliable, I'll go as long as 6 minutes. Over-curing is a problem. You'll get layer separation and the part will get discolored and brittle. Maybe the Formlabs UV light isn't as strong, but I also have one of those $13 UV lights from Amazon and I cure failed prints and supports in that and curing for 20 minutes makes the stuff very brittle. I've also left prints in the sun with one of those jewelry carousels and after an hour or two, it's pretty much hosed.
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Jan 22, 2021 21:34
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Doctor Zero posted:That sounds .... excessive. *shrug* Take it up with FormLabs, they disagree with you. https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Form-Cure-Time-and-Temperature-Settings?language=en_US#settings
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Jan 22, 2021 22:22
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Ambrose Burnside posted:also whoa I've used the ceramic resins and they are pretty cool but it's far more like making pottery than 3D printing. The printing part is the same as ever, just slice and go, but the results are comparable to greenware and you have to do the whole glazing and firing process as with any other ceramic part. Also the part shrinks anisotropically during firing (significantly, like 30% or more) and if the resin hardens on something you basically have to chip it off with a chisel even if it's unfired. So have fun with that
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Jan 22, 2021 23:43
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Sagebrush posted:Also the part shrinks anisotropically That's kind of fascinating. Does it shrink parallel to the layers, so something cylindrical like a mug or vase would basically end up squashed vertically, or more along the other axes?
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Jan 22, 2021 23:55
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Yes, ceramic resin (or at least the specific resin I've used) shrinks more along the Z direction during firing than along the X and Y. I assume it has something to do with the distribution of the ceramic particles. Perhaps the stretching/pulling action during the print makes it more sparse in the Z axis, perhaps it's something to do with the shape of the layer lines, idk. The simple way to address it is to orient your model and then scale it by the appropriate amounts in each axis, which makes your thing look tall and skinny and usually skewed. I've never tried to make ultra precise ceramic parts but they use the stuff for dental work so it's apparently predictable enough for that.
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Jan 23, 2021 00:17
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Rapulum_Dei posted:*shrug* Take it up with FormLabs, they disagree with you. It’s actually different for different resins. I’m not sure what the equivalent to those types are, but it seems to go from 15 minutes for flexible to 30 minutes for what might be your equivalent standard gray resins. That seems closer to what i would expect.
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Jan 23, 2021 00:17
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Sagebrush posted:I've used the ceramic resins and they are pretty cool but it's far more like making pottery than 3D printing. The printing part is the same as ever, just slice and go, but the results are comparable to greenware and you have to do the whole glazing and firing process as with any other ceramic part. Sagebrush posted:Yes, ceramic resin (or at least the specific resin I've used) shrinks more along the Z direction during firing than along the X and Y. I assume it has something to do with the distribution of the ceramic particles. Perhaps the stretching/pulling action during the print makes it more sparse in the Z axis, perhaps it's something to do with the shape of the layer lines, idk. Neat, thanks. IRT ceramic resins & firing- I was under the impression that not all 'ceramic resins' are sintered, and that term sort of replies to two different products. the sintered sort that you are talking about are intended as printable, artsy porcelain/ceramics, which do have very high shrinkage rates. but there's also ceramic-filled engineering resins intended for masters, patterns, prototypes etc use the ceramic as a bulk agent to produce a very hard, dimensionally-accurate and high-detail print, no sintering (so far as i can tell) required. this is the type i'm interested in. here's an example https://www.laserproto.com/services/stereolithography/stereolithography-materials/ceramax just wish they'd list the shrinkage factor. I've seen other ceramic-filled resins claiming <0.05% shrinkage in any axis so i'd assume it's closer to that than to the 2-7% i've heard for budget general-purpose photopolymers.
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Jan 23, 2021 01:00
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Sagebrush posted:Yes, ceramic resin (or at least the specific resin I've used) shrinks more along the Z direction during firing than along the X and Y. I assume it has something to do with the distribution of the ceramic particles. Perhaps the stretching/pulling action during the print makes it more sparse in the Z axis, perhaps it's something to do with the shape of the layer lines, idk. That's really neat stuff, thank you for the info! It's unlikely that I'll ever end up using any of that kind of stuff myself, but who knows... as fast as this tech is advancing for the home user, I may be be ceramic statuette prop replicas in a few more years. 
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Jan 23, 2021 01:01
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Looks like my Prusa MK3S+ kit just shipped. Current lead time is around 4 weeks for those curious (ordered 12/27). This is going in a garage, so I’d like something to cover it up. I don’t have time to tinker with putting together a Lack enclosure, so I’m looking for a collapsible fabric/mesh cover like a photo tent. Any recommendations for one that would fit over an MK3S?
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Jan 23, 2021 01:01
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Anyone gently caress with a petsfang on an ender 3? Wondering if its worth it to upgrade the fan to the blower etc
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Jan 23, 2021 01:59
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I've been using Elegoo's water washable resin, and 2-3 minutes total under my cheap amazon UV strip is about right. Much more than that and I've gotten cracking and brittleness.
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Jan 23, 2021 02:47
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Hermsgervørden posted:Nerobro, I would appreciate your advice on a problem I'm having with the Geeetech. I'm trying to get everything up and running, and I immediately ran into a big problem. Using the interface on the printer itself, I used the auto home function and the Y and Z are fine. But the X axis runs smack into the X axis endstop and keeps going. The motor grinds and grinds and the whole printer starts to walk across the countertop. This is distressing! Do you have any advice? All I've found is a suggestion that I check the connection, which of course I've done and it's not helped. Not a Geetech owner but for whatever reason your x-axis endstop switch isn't activating. Make sure it's not loose, and that it clicks when the hotend assembly hits it. It's literally just a switch, if you click it by hand when the x-axis is moving, it should stop. If that doesn't happen, there's something up with either the switch or the wire. You don't need to connect your printer to your computer at all. There should be an SD card slot that you can use to load gcode files that PrusaSlicer generates.
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Jan 23, 2021 04:50
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w chitubox- Is there any need to include supports on the inner surface of a hollowed resin part if you're also using infill? How am I supposed to extract any internal supports if they're all tangled up with the infill grid? Are there other infill patterns/techniques apart from the default "3d grid" infill option? And what are my options wrt UV curing the inside of a shell if a smallish extruded hole is the only way in or out, can I do much better than a single 405nm uv LED on wire leads pushed into the cavity? wrt hollow infill- I assume the fill pattern is chosen to have a self-supporting geometry, and that it will ultimately support the 'inner roof' of the shelled part where it reaches it, but i can't tell if the infill alone will be enough to support all of the 'roof' space. can i assume that an infilled hollowed part is inherently self-supporting as far as the overhanging shell 'roof' is concerned?
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Jan 23, 2021 05:01
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Ambrose Burnside posted:w chitubox- Is there any need to include supports on the inner surface of a hollowed resin part if you're also using infill? How am I supposed to extract any internal supports if they're all tangled up with the infill grid? Are there other infill patterns/techniques apart from the default "3d grid" infill option? And what are my options wrt UV curing the inside of a shell if a smallish extruded hole is the only way in or out, can I do much better than a single 405nm uv LED on wire leads pushed into the cavity? Resin infill pattern isn't much of a thing. If it's Hollowing I'd assume internal supports are needed there for the print to occur and you might be out of luck. Most resin prints where I've hollowed havent been translucent or anything so I assume it would be fine to leave in the supports. Shouldn't loosen up or anything, and it's just there to give a successfull print
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Jan 23, 2021 05:12
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone gently caress with a petsfang on an ender 3? Wondering if its worth it to upgrade the fan to the blower etc Do you have bridging or overhang issues? That's mainly where you're going to see an improvement with beefier parts cooling. If not, I wouldn't really bother since it's kind of a pain-in-the-rear end upgrade to print and install. I'd at least consider doing some calibration prints first to see if you really have an issue that better cooling will solve.
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Jan 23, 2021 05:23
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Ambrose Burnside posted:thanks. i've got one of those 50w UV arrays + a turntable, gonna stick em in a foil-lined shoebox, the usual first-post-cure setup. wash n cure looks sweet but i won't be able to justify the price any time soon If you're not getting results and still spending that amount, you might want to check in on some folks with a Form and see if you can run parts on their machine in spare time. Rigid 10k is definitely glass filled, though the trays only last 10 weeks once exposed to the material, so you kinda gotta move quickly if you're on a budget.
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Jan 23, 2021 05:41
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Paradoxish posted:Do you have bridging or overhang issues? That's mainly where you're going to see an improvement with beefier parts cooling. If not, I wouldn't really bother since it's kind of a pain-in-the-rear end upgrade to print and install. I'd at least consider doing some calibration prints first to see if you really have an issue that better cooling will solve. I haven't noticed much in the means of bridging issues but it's a fairly new printer for me. Long term I see it being used for a ton of wargaming tetrain so I just want to make sure everything's as dialed in as possible
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Jan 23, 2021 05:48
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w00tmonger posted:I haven't noticed much in the means of bridging issues but it's a fairly new printer for me. Long term I see it being used for a ton of wargaming tetrain so I just want to make sure everything's as dialed in as possible Ender 3s can put out some really high quality prints without any modifications, and in my opinion you're going to get the most gains for high-detail stuff by really dialing in your slicer settings. I mostly use my printer for minis and other small, high-detail prints and I'm still using the stock cooling. Just my two cents, but I wouldn't start making huge changes until you really feel like you're hitting in a wall in what you can do with the software and still not getting results that you're happy with.
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Jan 23, 2021 06:50
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My black Friday Prusa Mini is due to ship soon...... my baby monoprice mini has been out of commission for a while due to extruder issues and me waiting for a part to come in and I'm *so excited* to have a seriously good machine here and can't wait to have the sweet sounds of printing useless crap fill my living room. Also ordered me in a nozzle variety pack and a nozzle x and some copper filled filament, there's so many of those fills that I wanna futz around with but are just gonna chew up brass.
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Jan 23, 2021 08:27
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Dammit. I finally get a laptop that I can use to hook up to my printer to update the firmware, and the nozzle has a clog. Plus I gotta take the z end apart cause gently caress there is a rattling in there that is driving me up the wall. Gotta print a small holder thingie to keep a bearing from wiggling. Also gotta print some Z axis stabilizers cause now I'm paranoid. The fun thing about resin printing is none of this poo poo happens, the dumbest loving thing I did was randomly press the "clean tank" button when the vat was off and cured a batch of resin on the plate I hadn't wiped down yet.
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Jan 23, 2021 09:58
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Nozzle variety pack is a great choice. Just gave a .8 a try for printing up board game organizers and that thing FLIES and eats filament up like nothing else now.
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Jan 23, 2021 14:31
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smax posted:Looks like my Prusa MK3S+ kit just shipped. Current lead time is around 4 weeks for those curious (ordered 12/27). Pretty much any generic i3 enclosure kit will work. I've seen some on Etsy for $30 where they ship acrylic and extrusions to you and you print the brackets to assemble around the printer. Or you could trawl Amazon until you find something similar to this but cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08LZ1JXYX/
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Jan 23, 2021 17:31
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Maybe he should get a Prusa so he doesn't have to worry about modding it day-one.
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Jan 23, 2021 17:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty much any generic i3 enclosure kit will work. How can someone possibly ship enough acrylic alone (never mind extrusions) for an enclosure for $30? Is that just the shipping charge?
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Jan 23, 2021 18:14
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The Eyes Have It posted:How can someone possibly ship enough acrylic alone (never mind extrusions) for an enclosure for $30? Is that just the shipping charge? Not sure, I didn't actually click through to the listing in the Google results because LOL if I'm ever going to seriously buy something from Etsy.
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Jan 23, 2021 18:23
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insta posted:Maybe he should get a Prusa so he doesn't have to worry about modding it day-one. Do you also consider whatever table or platform you put the printer on to be a modification?
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Jan 23, 2021 18:25
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Hermsgervørden posted:Nerobro, I would appreciate your advice on a problem I'm having with the Geeetech. I'm trying to get everything up and running, and I immediately ran into a big problem. Using the interface on the printer itself, I used the auto home function and the Y and Z are fine. But the X axis runs smack into the X axis endstop and keeps going. The motor grinds and grinds and the whole printer starts to walk across the countertop. This is distressing! Do you have any advice? All I've found is a suggestion that I check the connection, which of course I've done and it's not helped. I don't have personal experience with repetier host, but I'm assuming it should have a way to enter GCODE commands manually. Try giving it the "M119" command, which should report the status of your endstops. For example, on my printer I give the command while all endstops are untouched, and then a second time while I'm holding down the X endstop: code:Also, check the connections to the endstop switch. They usually have three terminals: common, normally open (NO), and normally closed (NC). Common will always be used, but depending on the firmware it might expect an NO or NC connection. If you have a multimeter you can also do a continuity test to check if the switch is broken (ask if you need more info about how to do that) Hermsgervørden posted:Plus side: the Z axis is seemingly running smoothly, as is the Y axis, and I ran the heated bed and extruder up to operating temperatures without the whole contraption bursting into flames. You can try using pronterface or octoprint. As for manually controlling the motors, the firmware will usually prevent that from happening if it hasn't been homed yet as a safety precaution. No homing means it has no idea where the motors and limits are, so any command could potentially move it past the limit and cause that horrible grinding noise. You'll most likely see the same behavior if you're controlling the printer directly through the LCD screen. I don't think the heating commands have any kind of safety like this, you should be able to just tell it to heat and it'll go. Does the LCD screen reflect the temperature change you asked for? There's also different variants of GCODE used in 3d printers, with Marlin being the most popular. I'd assume repetier host defaults to repetier GCODE, so you might try changing it to Marlin instead.
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Jan 23, 2021 18:40
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gonna bullet-point the questions here - Alcohol and FEP film- FEP is basically PTFE and is chemical-resistant like PTFE, I don’t see any reason why it should cause any issues. manufacturers recommend using it to clean out tanks. and yet the scattered reports of the film fogging after alcohol use continue. what’s the deal there? - Also, i’ve seen silicone lids/caps for tanks, would that be sufficient to seal the tank for short-medium durations (say a couple of weeks) when not in use so I don’t have to pour it back into the bottle every time I want to switch resins? - And all the resin manufacturers direct you to not mix used resin from the tank back in with new resin, is there much to that aside from best-practices thinking or would it be prudent to grab a couple of opaque screwtop bottles off amazon to serve as used resin containers? - the elegoo Mars Pro has a “tank clean” function. apparently it exposes the entire tank bottom to UV with no masking, curing a tank-bottom layer of resin that you can pull out, ostensibly entrapping tank dust/debris so you can continue working without having to decant and filter the tank’s contents. Does it actually work worth a drat? Can I rely on it to salvage a failed print’s tank or is that always a “run it through a strainer” situation? e: NewFatMike posted:If you're not getting results and still spending that amount, you might want to check in on some folks with a Form and see if you can run parts on their machine in spare time. i eventually wanna make stamping die masters and electroforming mandrel molds, that’s why i bought the thing, but it’s still early days, i’m just getting comfortable with printing and the workflows/design considerations inherent to the process. haven’t tried any fancy engineering resins out yet, i don’t really know where to start beyond “buy a bottle and see how it prints”, so i was hoping for someone with personal experience producing similar parts where surface finish/detail and dimensional accuracy are critical who could make some recommendations. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jan 23, 2021 |
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Jan 23, 2021 18:44
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All good! Just wanted to make sure you had another arrow in your quiver. I wouldn't be surprised if FEP fogging is more about abrasions from paper towels or microscopic cured bits still in the vat, but that's just a guess.
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Jan 23, 2021 19:22
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Anyone have tips on pricing/selling resin prints? Looking at making a website for my area to sell some on the side. Want to do things super above board and get some merchant licenses etc
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Jan 23, 2021 19:57
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NewFatMike posted:
that's also my guess. FEP really is soft as poo poo, I managed to scratch my film within 15 minutes of opening the box; I wouldn't be surprised if there are lots of fine cured photopolymer particulates that end up in suspension in the resin thanks to the film-peeling, plus environmental dust n other crud that ends up in the tank, and wiping the inside of the tank out with a cloth/paper towel would also press those particulates against the film.
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Jan 23, 2021 19:57
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone have tips on pricing/selling resin prints? Looking at making a website for my area to sell some on the side. This is rather through: https://makeros.com/3d-printing-pricing-calculator
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Jan 23, 2021 20:19
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