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Shelvocke posted:Both good ideas. I floated a brass plaque by the client and she liked it but it was a little too "in loving memory..." I might look at the wooden one. If you don't like the idea of a plaque sitting proud, you could mortise it in, like a butterfly key. You'd have to make the carving deep enough that it would still look good after flushing it up.
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Jan 20, 2021 21:53
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more falafel please posted:What trim router should I get? I mostly want to use it for quick flush trimming, edge profiles, and with some jigs, things like circle cutting and cutting dados. I was considering the Bosch Colt, but having it be corded seems like it would be a pain, since a trim router feels like a "bring the tool to the work" sort of tool, and I don't think I would use it for so long at a time that the battery life would be an issue. I could probably be convinced to get a corded one, though. The ryobi trim router has worked fine for all my needs. I use it way more than my dewalt big router.
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Jan 20, 2021 21:58
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more falafel please posted:What trim router should I get? I mostly want to use it for quick flush trimming, edge profiles, and with some jigs, things like circle cutting and cutting dados. I was considering the Bosch Colt, but having it be corded seems like it would be a pain, since a trim router feels like a "bring the tool to the work" sort of tool, and I don't think I would use it for so long at a time that the battery life would be an issue. I could probably be convinced to get a corded one, though. I have a little corded Makita one that I like. No idea about cordless, but I’ve always wanted corded routers I guess.
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Jan 20, 2021 22:07
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mds2 posted:I have the colt and it is a very good router. And the cord is long as hell. This is the only router I've ever used and I feel like the rectangular base is a drawback? I think a round one would be better because then you don't have to keep it butted up to your guide perfectly. And, since it's not square, the distance between the centerline and where you place a guide changes depending on how you orient the tool. Using it is fine (for my needs). It was cheap and enough power to cut 1/2" wide grooves.
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Jan 20, 2021 22:16
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Uthor posted:This is the only router I've ever used and I feel like the rectangular base is a drawback? I think a round one would be better because then you don't have to keep it butted up to your guide perfectly. And, since it's not square, the distance between the centerline and where you place a guide changes depending on how you orient the tool. I’ve never had an issue with the base shape. It’s not an issue for trimming edges. Otherwise I use it for inlays. Like posted above I use this little router way more than my big PC.
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Jan 20, 2021 22:43
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I just bought the M18 Fuel Milwaukee router. Haven't used it yet, but can report back.
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Jan 20, 2021 22:51
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more falafel please posted:What trim router should I get? I mostly want to use it for quick flush trimming, edge profiles, and with some jigs, things like circle cutting and cutting dados. I was considering the Bosch Colt, but having it be corded seems like it would be a pain, since a trim router feels like a "bring the tool to the work" sort of tool, and I don't think I would use it for so long at a time that the battery life would be an issue. I could probably be convinced to get a corded one, though. I had the Ryobi and wasn't a fan. I ended up switching to the Ridgid cordless and like it a lot better. Maybe it's a placebo because of the price point, but I think the Ridgid is better built, comes with an edge guide and has an option for a dust port.
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Jan 21, 2021 01:19
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Speaking of, is there some weird tool supply issue? I was going to get either the Porter Cable 450 or DeWalt 611 compact router this winter and they are either out of stock or listed at ridiculous prices.
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Jan 21, 2021 01:31
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more falafel please posted:What trim router should I get? I mostly want to use it for quick flush trimming, edge profiles, and with some jigs, things like circle cutting and cutting dados. I was considering the Bosch Colt, but having it be corded seems like it would be a pain, since a trim router feels like a "bring the tool to the work" sort of tool, and I don't think I would use it for so long at a time that the battery life would be an issue. I could probably be convinced to get a corded one, though. I'd go Makita of woodworking focused and starting a new system. If you go cordless make sure you also go brushless (pretty sure thats the only option now, but not certain) Ghostnuke posted:I just bought the M18 Fuel Milwaukee router. Haven't used it yet, but can report back. This is what I own and I'm very happy with it. Accessory support is still pretty thin but its new so that's expected.
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Jan 21, 2021 01:45
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Out of the routers I use the one that gets the most use (that's not in a table) is the cordless Makita. Not a replacement when you need to turn some 1/2" shank bits but it's great not having to worry about wrangling with a cord if you just need to do a quick round over on an edge.
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Jan 21, 2021 03:53
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snuffles posted:Out of the routers I use the one that gets the most use (that's not in a table) is the cordless Makita. Not a replacement when you need to turn some 1/2" shank bits but it's great not having to worry about wrangling with a cord if you just need to do a quick round over on an edge. Yeah, I'm not looking for one router for all tasks, I'm looking for a router that I can easily grab and do an edge, and maybe has a little more functionality with an easy edge guide. Definitely leaning towards the Makita. That would also break the seal on having more than one batter platform, meaning I don't just automatically buy the Ryobi tool in the future.
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Jan 21, 2021 06:44
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My Makita trim router has been able to do big lock miter bits and 3/4" inch plywood dados without too much complaint.
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Jan 21, 2021 07:55
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more falafel please posted:Definitely leaning towards the Makita. That would also break the seal on having more than one batter platform, meaning I don't just automatically buy the Ryobi tool in the future. Hello, fellow future track saw owner. I've got a DeWalt set I got for silly-cheap on Black Friday a couple years ago and now I'm in the same "but Makita has good stuff..." boat. Not that I'm buying any tools until the shop space is ready. Inching towards the day...
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Jan 21, 2021 08:31
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Tool Nut is having a $20 off deal on Makita right now. I only buy battery tools if they are drill/drivers or something I might use where there is no outlet nearby. Tethered to a manufacturer or tethered to an outlet, you choose.
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Jan 21, 2021 16:21
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Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, is there some weird tool supply issue? I was going to get either the Porter Cable 450 or DeWalt 611 compact router this winter and they are either out of stock or listed at ridiculous prices. Supply chains continue to be really bonkers right now. Not as bonkers as they were 6 months ago, but still really crazy. The normal forecasting tools that a lot of these firms use just poo poo the bed with covid, so the forecast said zero sales yet everyone is stuck inside going batshit crazy and just wanting to buy. Same thing is happening with camping-hiking stuff, astronomy, basically anything you can do outside and not in a crowd. Purchasing a kayak was virtually impossible a few months ago.
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Jan 21, 2021 17:09
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Same for cycling, a lot of parts and bikes won't be arriving in North America in sufficient quantities until Spring 2022. My local lumber place is just out of a lot of woods, too.
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Jan 21, 2021 18:47
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I'm planning out a table which is significanlty cribbed from Ishitani's kigumi design. The top is 48 inches long, for scale. All pieces are 1.5 inches thick, though I might make the legs a bit thicker than that in the actual build, depending on what I have for wood available. Not pictured: dowels, drawbore pegs. I plan to use this as my desk, so I'm also considering a shelf on the underside for my PC tower, attached to the crossbar, but that's still undecided (just typing this I thought of a different solution for my space so that probably won't happen) Any suggestions for how I could make the top removeable - to make it easier to move - without using bolts or fasteners? Ishitani has that whole "cut a dovetail and slide the pieces through" but that's above my weight. And if the best way to do it is with bolts, I would also appreciate suggestions for how to do that without making them visible. Right now the plan would be to glue/dowel the legs and feet into single pieces, and then have the crossbar held in place with a drawbore wedge.
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Jan 21, 2021 18:51
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Is this something I should be jumping on, Tool Goons?
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Jan 21, 2021 19:50
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If you enjoy restoring planes, go for it. If you want some planes to actually use, I think at most one or two of those look worth using after restoration, and that's assuming they don't have deeper problems hidden by the photos. I'd skip it.
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Jan 21, 2021 20:41
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Ghostnuke posted:Is this something I should be jumping on, Tool Goons? be honest, you dont need our advice. your just bragging. But now you have to post the pics of restored planes.
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Jan 21, 2021 20:52
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no, I honestly don't have any use for them but everyone has been talkin' planes lately so 
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Jan 21, 2021 20:56
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Hell, can probably make 5x that just from throwing select parts on eBay.
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Jan 22, 2021 01:23
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Found this lil fella on the side of the road, wtf 
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Jan 22, 2021 01:32
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Shop version of "woods porn".
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Jan 22, 2021 01:46
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post a video when you first turn it on
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Jan 22, 2021 01:51
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Gone to hospital, lost fingat.
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Jan 22, 2021 03:01
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Please be safe but yes 
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Jan 22, 2021 05:57
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more falafel please posted:Yeah, I'm not looking for one router for all tasks, I'm looking for a router that I can easily grab and do an edge, and maybe has a little more functionality with an easy edge guide. Definitely leaning towards the Makita. That would also break the seal on having more than one batter platform, meaning I don't just automatically buy the Ryobi tool in the future. Problem is brushless trim routers sorta broke the clear divide between "medium" ~1.5hp routers and trim routers. Turns out as long as you can get the bit in 1/4" you can do a whole lot with a "trim" router.
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Jan 22, 2021 06:29
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Ghostnuke posted:Is this something I should be jumping on, Tool Goons? I would absolutely pay $40 for that lot. Going from left to right: #1 has a lot of surface rust and the tilt blade lever is out of position, which coul mean it's broken or could just mean it's not put together right. I'd call this a "maybe" #2 is a cheapo block plane with no handle. It's bottom-tier, some would say garbage but I actually use a (cleaned up) one like this for certain tasks. Could be OK to practice on restoring, but is probably not worth it. #3 I can't quite make out the words on the lever cap but it looks fairly clean. The knob appears to have a fluted design with a mold line, suggesting cheapness. I would guess it's a cheapo plane worth maybe $10-15 as it sits? #4 has quite a fair bit of rust on the cap iron and the iron, but looks like a typical stanley/bailey #4 or #4 1/2 plane design. Surface rust is clean uppable and if the tote is OK, the base isn't cracked, and nothing's missing, I would definitely restore this plane and it'd be worth more than $40 cleaned up, just on its own. #5 is the same deal as #4, except less rust, and it's a jack plane, probably a #5 or a #5 1/2. In fact it looks like a lot of surface patina rather than rust on the irons. Cleaned up it's worth probably $50+. #6 is a "transitional plane" made during the period when the plane manufacturers had started to put out all-metal planes, but many woodworkers still preferred wooden-soled planes. These planes can be somewhat more valuable as antiques/collectibles given their age, but they do work fine and if the sole is cracked or split you can replace them with some work. That plane specifically looks to my not well trained eye like a Stanley #26, perhaps a type 6 or so, which is from 1874-1884. I would buy the entire collection just for that one plane, which is worth $40 as it sits to an antique collector. The tote is broken and needs to be repaired to look great but fortunately it's just the tip so it's useable as-is. For that last plane, this page may be helpful: https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/03/04/my-transitional-planes/ I will say that none of these planes, with the possible exception of #3, are in usable condition yet, and even #3 would certainly need sharpening. I would ask the seller for photos of the soles of the planes (to look for cracks/chips/etc) and I would watch out for costly shipping that could make this much less worth it. If you're into the zen of restoring hand planes, as an idea, though, this would be a cool way to start: you could try flattening lovely cheap #2 there to get the hang of it before going after the bigger ones, for example. I would also assume that you may have to replace a part or two as you go. Sometimes these things wind up with mismatched parts, or something unfixable is broken, or maybe it's just not worth all the time and effort for some part or another. If I paid $40 for that lot I'd guess I might wind up spending another $40 on consumables, parts, etc. but I'd wind up with probably $100+ worth of useable or re-sellable planes. And as someone else said, you could also part them out (well the three on the right anyway) with no restoration done, for a $100+ if you don't mind dealing with multiple ebay sales transactions. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Jan 22, 2021 |
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Jan 22, 2021 08:22
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Hell, I’d Venmo you enough for the planes+shipping even if you didn’t want them. I enjoy getting planes into working condition more than actually turning out woodworking projects.
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Jan 22, 2021 15:04
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  Very pleased with how it turned out. I applied the Osmo very thinly with a sponge instead of a brush, which really brought out the golden colour of the oak. On finishing interior wood- is Danish oil followed by wax or laquer suitable for a dining table?
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Jan 22, 2021 15:32
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Baronash posted:Hell, I’d Venmo you enough for the planes+shipping even if you didn’t want them. I have no desire in getting a plane in working condition, or really know which one would be worth getting in working condition, and really don't want to drop $300 on a "good" one. I would be willing to pay a fair price for a restored one...just saying 
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Jan 22, 2021 16:01
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Good morning, I'm going to cross post this into the interior thread too so pardon the double post. As all of you are aware since you've been waiting with baited breath for me to post updates, I'm building a bar. The bar itself is done, picture this but the kick plate is in.  So now I'm dealing with the rest of the room. I was originally going to put in a high top, but I realized I have a card table in the basement that would work pretty well with the room.  The issue I have is that it isn't *that* nice. So my question is do I ship of thesus this card table? I like the shape, I like the insert, I like the trays and the cup holders, but I don't like the finish of the wood and I hate the legs. I have no idea what the wood is, but there's not much character to it, so even sanding and re-staining wouldn't do much. Do I go buy some nice walnut and remake it to be nicer? (and buy chairs to match?)
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Jan 22, 2021 16:20
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AFewBricksShy posted:
Do it! I am going to live vicariously through you, I want nothing more than to build a huge table specifically for playing D&D with a recessed dice trey and cup holders and maybe even a built in DM screen. But I don't have the space for it 
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Jan 22, 2021 16:47
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Rutibex posted:Do it! I am going to live vicariously through you, I want nothing more than to build a huge table specifically for playing D&D with a recessed dice trey and cup holders and maybe even a built in DM screen. But I don't have the space for it You only don't have the space if you don't knock down some walls. Free your mind! (Alternatively, build new walls: a D&D shed!)
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Jan 22, 2021 17:29
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Shelvocke posted:
Great work dude. On the subject of finish: it depends what you mean by suitable. Danish oil topped with wax will be mildly stain and damp resistant (like you can wipe up spilled wine with no stain) but will have poo poo all for scratch resistance. However, it will easily be repairable. If you don't mind a weathered and used look it's a great combo. Lacquer on top is a different ball game entirely, you'd definitely want to let the Danish oil dry/cure and do a compatibility test.
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Jan 22, 2021 17:32
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yeah that bench owns and I might steal the concept for the bench I plan to make
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Jan 22, 2021 17:34
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Shelvocke posted:On finishing interior wood- is Danish oil followed by wax or laquer suitable for a dining table? As far as finishing-Yes, But. Danish oil + xax is an easy finish that isn't super durable or protective vs scratches etc. but that's okay because it's easy to repair/refinish. Just clean the wax off with naphtha or w/e, maybe scuff sand a little, re-oil, re-wax. Lacquer or polyurethane are much more durable, protective finishes, but are also much harder to repair if something does happen to it. Lacquer is easier to fix than poly for the most part. I would not put either over Danish oil. If the oil is really well dried it's probably fine, but in general, layering different finishes over each other isn't the best idea. AFewBricksShy posted:The issue I have is that it isn't *that* nice. So my question is do I ship of thesus this card table? I like the shape, I like the insert, I like the trays and the cup holders, but I don't like the finish of the wood and I hate the legs. E: CommonShore posted:I'm planning out a table which is significanlty cribbed from Ishitani's kigumi design. TBH, for the size it is, it's going to be pretty easy to move even if it stays fully assembled unless you are moving in a big city on the subway without a car or something. If the top isn't fairly strongly attached, it seems like the desk would tend to rack side to side? That crossbar doesn't seem super wide and that + wedged tusk tenons are all you've got to keep things steady. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jan 22, 2021 |
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Jan 22, 2021 17:41
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AFewBricksShy posted:(and buy chairs to match?) Buy??? Make chairs!
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Jan 22, 2021 17:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Bench looks cool! I want the removable top to make sure that it can get through doorways if necessary and flatten it out somewhat if I'm packing it away. I could make the crossbar wider quite easily if that would make it more stable and less prone to racking. I'm planning to dimenson all of the wood myself from larger slabs, so there's tons of room to adjust. I saw a Third Coast Craftsman video after I posted where he used a dowel pin system to attach and secure a tabletop - he glued receivers to the top and then ran a dowel through them to the crossbars with a 1/16 offset to create a counterbore cinching effect, and then used a punch to take them out to remove the top. That has become my current Plan A. Does this qualify as "secure" enough to prevent racking? Or would I be better off, if I want the removeable top, doing something more secure than the drawbore tusk (e.g. a proper wedged and glued tenon) and just having the table break down to two pieces? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-SxsnG7CLc&t=442s
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Jan 22, 2021 18:22
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