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Clark Nova posted:If you're going to get a cheap seatpost, get a kalloy/uno instead of whatever markov-generated chinese brand shows up first on amazon. Ritchey doesn't seem to have any 25.4 diameter seatposts. Any other good brands?
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Jan 21, 2021 17:37
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Velo Orange sells a 25.4 seatpost for $25. It appears to be forged
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Jan 21, 2021 18:14
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Clark Nova posted:better designed and easier to use saddle clamp, FWIW, the only issues I've had with the cheap posts is that they have those notched tilt adjusts:  and a saddle I have is either tilted too high or too low, with the ideal right between notches. So you could end up with a post that helps you answer the setback fit question, but that you don't wanna run long term.
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Jan 21, 2021 18:28
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kimbo305 posted:FWIW, the only issues I've had with the cheap posts is that they have those notched tilt adjusts: 
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Jan 21, 2021 18:46
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Get one with a front bolt and a back bolt, you can adjust angle by tightening or loosening as needed. Nail polish to make a reference line once you have it where you like it so you can find it again if you remove the seat and you don't need indexing.
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Jan 21, 2021 19:02
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I ordered the kalloy uno which should answer the setback question for not too much money. Thank you Clark Nova for the rec, it is like $1 more than the chinese knockoff thing at the top of amazon but doesn’t have a bunch of reviews saying it snapped in half like that one does. If I ever want to get a nicer one my options seem limited. Most stuff I poked at doesn’t come in 25.4. My current post is 400mm and I think I only need 350mm, so that is another concern.
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Jan 21, 2021 19:29
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Dren posted:I ordered the kalloy uno which should answer the setback question for not too much money. Thank you Clark Nova for the rec, it is like $1 more than the chinese knockoff thing at the top of amazon but doesn’t have a bunch of reviews saying it snapped in half like that one does. They don't make nice bikes with 25.4 internal seat tube size any more, so seatpost choice is gonna be cheap stuff for cheap bikes and repairs to older ones. The VO is the nicest you'll find new. Don't worry about finding a post that's too long, you can saw off the extra length.
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Jan 21, 2021 19:56
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I didn't mention it but I'm pretty sure kalloy is, or is a brand/subsidiary of, the company that makes the seatposts and stems for all the bikes that come out of Taiwan. They're also an easy answer for "which threadless stem should I get?"
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Jan 21, 2021 20:50
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SimonSays posted:They don't make nice bikes with 25.4 internal seat tube size any more, so seatpost choice is gonna be cheap stuff for cheap bikes and repairs to older ones. The VO is the nicest you'll find new. Don't worry about finding a post that's too long, you can saw off the extra length. This is the only nice one I found, https://www.amazon.com/Zipp-Service-Seatpost-Setback-Diameter/dp/B07GGPLCY9/ Would there be any problem running a CF seatpost in an AL frame?
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Jan 21, 2021 21:16
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Clark Nova posted:I didn't mention it but I'm pretty sure kalloy is, or is a brand/subsidiary of, the company that makes the seatposts and stems for all the bikes that come out of Taiwan. They're also an easy answer for "which threadless stem should I get?" There's a lot of firms making those kinds of parts but only so many forges. Kalloy are huge and make white-label parts all the time, at any quality level you're willing to pay for. The VO Dajia seatpost is one of their nicer models.
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Jan 21, 2021 21:32
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Dren posted:This is the only nice one I found, https://www.amazon.com/Zipp-Service-Seatpost-Setback-Diameter/dp/B07GGPLCY9/ I wouldn't buy carbon on Amazon because you don't know what you're getting, especially with that 3-review listing, and broken carbon between your legs tends to be upsetting.
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Jan 21, 2021 21:33
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Dren posted:Would there be any problem running a CF seatpost in an AL frame? To avoid seizing, you can use carbon paste, which is a gritty paste designed to offer the right grip/friction and prevent any weird electrolysis from welding metals or corroding carbon. e: correcting what i said -- I don't think there should be interaction between bare metal and the carbon resin, nor after googling, should I be worried about road salt exacerbating any corrosion to the carbon, even if scraped up from insertion wear. SimonSays posted:I wouldn't buy carbon on Amazon because you don't know what you're getting, especially with that 3-review listing, and broken carbon between your legs tends to be upsetting. https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/zipp-service-course-sl-seatpost_1 I would expect the failure point, on a well built model from a reputable manufacturer, to be at the alu head - carbon tube interface. Either it debonds or starts cracking there from some bad tolerance. I have had a cheap carbon post crack but not bend at the seat tube insertion, so yeah, I'm on the train of save $100 and eat 50g for hopefully less sudden failures. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jan 22, 2021 |
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Jan 21, 2021 21:56
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yeah, a carbon seatpost will need carbon assembly paste, and also you really ought to be using a torque wrench to tighten your seatpost collar to spec
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Jan 21, 2021 23:10
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Clark Nova posted:yeah, a carbon seatpost will need carbon assembly paste, and also you really ought to be using a torque wrench to tighten your seatpost collar to spec On the flip side, a lot of even reputable posts will be undersized, where to spec guarantees slippage.
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Jan 21, 2021 23:14
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I've never been happier than the day I replaced a suspect carbon post and got this one because the clamp and angle adjustment is separate and so easy to do.
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Jan 22, 2021 01:45
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Just to clarify, carbon itself will not corrode...at least I don't think it does. It just transfers electrons to metals with massively dissimilar anodic indices and causes them to corrode. You'll often see sheets of fiberglass around rivnuts on the insides of frames to prevent carbon/metal contact.
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Jan 22, 2021 08:22
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I bought a used Avanti Blade as a present to myself early last year... and it's been in the shed ever since because I tried to do a basic deraileur adjust without re-watching a youtube tutorial and stuffed it up, then compounded my error by messing with everything else (again, not looking at tutorials like I should have) trying to fix it. Front and rear deraileurs are now out of whack, let's assume "setting up from new". AFAIK the rear hanger is OK - I was overconfident because I spent a sweaty afternoon adjusting my old bike's rear deraileur a few years back and was successful. I found it really tedious to do just working on the ground, so I built a basic maintenance stand so it wouldn't be as tedious to check how it was shifting. (Side note: that guy's bike must be a fair bit lighter than mine because it kept tipping backwards, wound up having to bolt an old motorbike head I had laying around to the other end to act as a counterweight). I'm not sure where to begin: front or rear deraileur?
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Jan 23, 2021 08:54
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Start with rear. You can still have a mostly functional bike without front shifting. Make sure to set the low limit for the RD if you don't want an expensive problem on your hands.
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Jan 23, 2021 17:21
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me replacing clinchers on a used bike: "i wonder how old the tubes are" the tube brand name: Avocet (if they hold air, is it fine to continue to use ancient rear end inner tubes, because idk if 700c tubes are still hard as nails to get in stock)
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Jan 24, 2021 16:35
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I used the inner tubes that were inside the falling-apart tires on my junkyard frankenbike after I bought cheap, new tires. I also bought new inner tubes just in case, but for the month I rode that bike before the BB fell apart the unknown-age inner tubes were fine.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:32
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Can I get some feedback about my efforts messing with my rear wheel bearings, please? I've been faffing about with cone adjustment on a QR rear wheel with cassette. Bike is a 2019 Trek FX3 Disc if that helps. I took my rear hub apart tonight to get my head around how it works. The point was to get a feel for it and pick up some knowledge and skills. It's also fun to wrench my own stuff! Granted, occasionally Type 2 fun, but that's fine with me. I followed the info provided by Sheldon Brown (Cone Adjustment) and the guide from Park Tools (Hub overhaul and adjustment - cup and cone) Here's what I did: 1. Removed cassette with lock ring tool and chain whip 2. Removed right side locknut, cone shield, washer and cone nut. 3. Took a peek at condition of bearings and cotact surfaces 4. Let the axle slowly slide out the left side and carefully took a peek in there 5. Reassembled hub etc in reverse order 6. Tightened right side cone and lock nut while accounting (via estimate) for play and QR compression 7. Reassembled cassette 8. Returned wheel bike and check for play and free rotation It's back on, there's a miniscule amount of play, axles don't protrude in dropouts, and wheel seems to spin well. Test ride was fine. I'm fairly certain the locknut is tight against the cone, but I'd like to double check; I've heard that if it's loose the cone nut can head into the bearing housing and wreck up the joint. I didn't have access to cone spanners tonight, and made do with only combo spanners (hence the concern over lock nut security). My intent from here is to grab some cone spanners in 13, 15, and 17mm to use alongside my combo spanners. Does this seem suitable? Once I've got the cone spanners, I'll revisit the adjustment and see if I can reduce the play some more (perhaps throw in a bit of marine grease). I'd also double-check that the lock nut is tight. Anything I'm missing here or could be doing better? Thanks in advance Bichael Maintenance Thread - I've loved lurking and learning from you all! All of these bike threads are just fantastic. Seedy ROM fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Jan 27, 2021 |
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Jan 27, 2021 12:49
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Seedy ROM posted:My intent from here is to grab some cone spanners in 13, 15, and 17mm to use alongside my combo spanners. Does this seem suitable? Your steps and results look pretty good over here. I would try to take the play out. Final result should be slight play in the hub when not on the bike (usually only in one spot or so), because the QR or axle nuts compress the bearings as well when you install the wheel. Which means you should have no play when the wheel is installed. And definitely make sure that the lock nut is tight. 13, 15, and 17 should be all you need unless you get into any thru axle setups.
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Jan 27, 2021 14:04
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You need the cone wrenches if you don't want it to work loose. Also sometimes about 10° makes the diy between too loose or too tight, so having something to hold the axle as you tighten the locknut and cone together is a huge help.
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Jan 27, 2021 16:13
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Dumb question: I've got a Shimano Nexus 8-speed internally geared hub. I don't really love the revoshift twisty shifter it came with. Could I replace with an 8 speed (for lack of a better term) clicky lever thumb shifter?
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Jan 29, 2021 02:53
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Safety Dance posted:Dumb question: I've got a Shimano Nexus 8-speed internally geared hub. I don't really love the revoshift twisty shifter it came with. Could I replace with an 8 speed (for lack of a better term) clicky lever thumb shifter? Yes, Shimano make those for Nexus and Alfine hubs. There are also third-party bar-end shifters and such.
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Jan 29, 2021 03:00
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I believe the Alfine and Nexus pull ratios are the same. If so, you can use this. https://www.treefortbikes.com/Shimano-Alfine-SL-S503-8-Speed-Rapidfire-Shifter-for
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Jan 29, 2021 03:01
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I want to put HY/RDs on my office bike that has mechanical disc brakes. They’re sold out everywhere / on back order for a couple of months. On a whim I checked eBay and there are a bunch of sellers offering them for basically $50 cheaper per caliper than anywhere else online- more importantly they’re in stock. I know there’s counterfeit Shimano/etc stuff out there, how likely is it these are counterfeit? It looks like TRP has them in stock but it’s $140 more than buying a set on eBay. Of course thats money well spent if the eBay calipers are going to explode and cause me to crash into a car.
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Jan 29, 2021 13:58
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LordOfThePants posted:I want to put HY/RDs on my office bike that has mechanical disc brakes. They’re sold out everywhere / on back order for a couple of months. If you need flat mount I have a pair I’d sell for way cheaper than what’s on ebay.
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Jan 29, 2021 14:02
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LordOfThePants posted:On a whim I checked eBay and there are a bunch of sellers offering them for basically $50 cheaper per caliper than anywhere else online- more importantly they’re in stock. For mechanical components (cassettes, brakes) I generally trust Taiwanese sellers with high ratings. The Shimano stuff I get all seems to be gray market stuff that they somehow can get enough margin for reselling. Shipping time was generally slow, and now I'm not sure how much I'd trust it.
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Jan 29, 2021 14:27
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I believe the Alfine and Nexus pull ratios are the same. If so, you can use this. Neat! Thanks.
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Jan 29, 2021 15:22
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kimbo305 posted:For mechanical components (cassettes, brakes) I generally trust Taiwanese sellers with high ratings. The Shimano stuff I get all seems to be gray market stuff that they somehow can get enough margin for reselling. Shipping time was generally slow, and now I'm not sure how much I'd trust it. FWIW, I got a set of HY/RDs from exactly such a seller (this seller, to be specific) a couple months ago and had a positive experience. I have no idea how to authenticate them, but to my untrained eye, they look good and they've worked well. (While I'm on the topic, thanks to e.pilot and other thread regulars for singing their praises - I got 'em after learning about them on the various SA bike threads. They were right, they are much better and less fiddly to align than the basic mechanical single-piston brakes my bike came with.)
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Jan 29, 2021 16:20
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e.pilot posted:If you need flat mount I have a pair I’d sell for way cheaper than what’s on ebay. My CAADX is post mount unfortunately otherwise I’d be all over that. The low price / immediate stock (from a seller shipping from CA) is really tempting. On the other hand this bike needs to have reliable brakes - it’s what I ride at lunch on the pretty busy roads / MUPs around here and if I’m hauling rear end up to a stop and my brakes explode, I’m probably going to get smoked by a car. Maybe I’ll just pony up the extra 150to buy them directly from TRP.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:26
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I’d get the eBay ones. They’re very likely legit, and if they aren’t, you can file a dispute. I’ve bought a decent amount of grey market stuff and it’s all been fine.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:33
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LordOfThePants posted:The low price / immediate stock (from a seller shipping from CA) is really tempting. On the other hand this bike needs to have reliable brakes - it’s what I ride at lunch on the pretty busy roads / MUPs around here and if I’m hauling rear end up to a stop and my brakes explode, I’m probably going to get smoked by a car. Maybe I’ll just pony up the extra 150to buy them directly from TRP. What if you split the difference and get one from fast and cheap for the rear brake, and get one from TRP for the front brake?  Of course that means you'll have that rear brake sitting around, tempting you to install it up front.
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Jan 29, 2021 18:16
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I ended up ordering them on eBay, we’ll see what they look like when they arrive. Hopefully they’re just gray market. Probably another month away from being able to resume my lunchtime bike ride so I want to get these on and tested rather than wait for them to come in stock. I’d have never even known these cable actuated disc brakes were a thing without reading about them here. My CAADX is still a great bike for short 20 mile rides, but the mechanical disc brakes blow compared to the hydraulic ones on my Roubaix.
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Jan 30, 2021 01:09
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My rear derailleur was shifting like poo poo so I took it to the LBS. The guy was like "i fixed your stuff but u need new brake pads" and I was like "yea i know" and he's like "we have the ones for the front but for the rear they are backordered" and he gave me the part number to order online then bring to them to install. Once I got home I was like wait, why would they be different? I have the same TRP fake hydraulic disc brakes on my bike, front is flat mount rear is post but they should take the same pads right?
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Jan 30, 2021 22:29
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Casual Yogurt posted:My rear derailleur was shifting like poo poo so I took it to the LBS. The guy was like "i fixed your stuff but u need new brake pads" and I was like "yea i know" and he's like "we have the ones for the front but for the rear they are backordered" and he gave me the part number to order online then bring to them to install. Yep, they’re the same as Shimano B01S pads too fwiw, which are way better than the OEM TRP pads.
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Jan 30, 2021 23:38
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Casual Yogurt posted:My rear derailleur was shifting like poo poo so I took it to the LBS. The guy was like "i fixed your stuff but u need new brake pads" and I was like "yea i know" and he's like "we have the ones for the front but for the rear they are backordered" and he gave me the part number to order online then bring to them to install. Maybe they just had 1 set on hand and figured the fronts needed it more than the rears?
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Jan 31, 2021 00:28
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VelociBacon posted:Maybe they just had 1 set on hand and figured the fronts needed it more than the rears? In other news, got my hub back from the LBS (the nexus 5 di2 that crunched itself after all of 3 months). Verdict is water ingress allowed a one way bearing to oxidize, and rust got into the top 2 gearsets. Now on the plus side Shimano was easy to work with and expressed us new internals but on the other hand IT'S loving 3 MONTHS OLD WHAT THE gently caress YOU TURDS.
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Feb 1, 2021 20:56
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Feels Villeneuve posted:(if they hold air, is it fine to continue to use ancient rear end inner tubes, because idk if 700c tubes are still hard as nails to get in stock) I've been riding an old lovely kenda inner tube on the front of my commuter fixie for like 5 years that has a bent presta valve core. I've been waiting for it to die so I can put a nicer tube in it, but it's outlasted like 3 tires and 2 rear rims at this point
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Feb 2, 2021 00:14
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