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Twerk from Home posted:What routers should I be looking at for gigabit routing? I don't need wi-fi, my wireless solution is very well sorted. I'm already running a Uni-Fi controller on a server at home, but have heard less than stellar things about Ubiquiti routers. I was planning on getting a Mikrotik RB4011, but it looks like that can't route at line speed. Personally I went for an enterprise-grade manufacturer and picked something from their SOHO range. I used to use a FortiWifi 40C and now I have a Check Point 600 "appliance" (datasheet PDF). Neither is better than the other, I just switched for no other reason than trying out the CP. Palo Alto and obviously Cisco are also good choices. I like to use these brands because all of their devices have the same level of security and business continuity focus. It's very rare that these brands get hacked with stupid poo poo like DLNA being open on the WAN or hard-coding SSH credentials. If you can't pay their yearly support fee for AV and IPS, and just use the device as a L4 firewall, they can keep up with much more than 1 Gbps of throughput - a lot of the traffic is hardware-accelerated.
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# ? Jan 29, 2021 22:50 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:04 |
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MJP posted:I've got a Netgear Orbi setup - RBR50 and one RBS50. It works fine and dandy, no complaints. I got a text from Comcast saying I was at 90% of my 1.2TB data cap that they've so lovingly imposed. I'm still on a contract with them until September so I can't just switch without shelling out. Is there some way that I can track data consumption by device (MAC ID, hostname, etc.) so I can see what's hitting the hardest and work on it if possible? Sadly, not that I’m aware of. I actually end up doing it with my EdgeRouter-4 since my Orbi setup only lives in bridge mode now. If you were really wanting to figure it out, get one of the cheaper TP-Link routers, throw Merlin WRT on it and then you can do usage tracking by MAC address there.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 00:51 |
Does AT&T fiber throttle torrent traffic? I think somebody in the thread mentioned Verizon FIOS does. I would assume AT&T does as well?
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 03:34 |
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fletcher posted:Does AT&T fiber throttle torrent traffic? I think somebody in the thread mentioned Verizon FIOS does. I would assume AT&T does as well? They do not. Gigabit line speed. Edit: they will call you if you're pushing 50+TB a month.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 03:39 |
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Infinite cables (infinitecables.com) is a Canadian distributor/manufacturer of cabling (and supplies) and sells to end users. Based in Markham and generally ships same day by 2pm or so or pickup if you are local.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 03:59 |
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Coxswain Balls posted:Can anyone suggest a Canadian site or supplier I should be looking at that sells to the public, or with minimal hoops for my "consulting business"? Also PC Canada https://www.pc-canada.com/ I work for a large MSP and pc canada retail prices are quite often lower than I can get wholesale from Ingram Micro or D&H.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 04:07 |
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Fantastic, thanks for those recommendations. Only roadblock now will be if there's disagreeable stud placement.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 07:17 |
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rufius posted:Sadly, not that I’m aware of. I actually end up doing it with my EdgeRouter-4 since my Orbi setup only lives in bridge mode now. Just to add to this, my TP-Link Archer C8 can show traffic by client with the stock firmware. They were on sale recently for like $30 or $40, I think.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 08:28 |
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I'm in the market for a wifi range extender because my roommate is having trouble with my network, and due to our space I'm wondering what might be the best option. My previous roommate purchased a whole-rear end router and connected it via a short ethernet cable to my own (presumably weaker wifi signal) router, which resides in my room. Even though it was in the same location, it worked quite well, but I'm wondering if that's overkill. Additionally I seem to remember him having to sign onto a separate network in his list, even though it was directly connected to my own. Do products like this guy or his larger brother work well? If so, I can just connect it to the plug in the hallway and leave it at that.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 15:47 |
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Assuming you don't have cabling between spaces, the preferred solution is going to be a mesh wifi system rather than an extender, which works as a repeater and slows things down. Google Wifi, Eero, Orbi, etc. Coxswain Balls posted:Fantastic, thanks for those recommendations. Only roadblock now will be if there's disagreeable stud placement. Typically solved by plywood into studs --> gear onto plywood.
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# ? Jan 30, 2021 18:51 |
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Scratch that, I'm going to get myself a cheap old NUC, I forgot how slow rpi desktop is. I'll be able to install UISP instead, may as well give that a shot. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jan 30, 2021 |
# ? Jan 30, 2021 20:44 |
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Is there a trick to telling how recently a cable modem came out? Like if I want a Docsis 3.0 modem, how can I tell if a "new" one on Amazon was produced in 2006 or in 2021? For purposes of power efficiency mostly and not having new-old-stock with ancient capacitors and stuff.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 04:04 |
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Zero VGS posted:Is there a trick to telling how recently a cable modem came out? Like if I want a Docsis 3.0 modem, how can I tell if a "new" one on Amazon was produced in 2006 or in 2021? For purposes of power efficiency mostly and not having new-old-stock with ancient capacitors and stuff. Not to be a prick but I'd just say grab the arris surfboard for $99 off amazon with 1 day delivery and check the date code of mfg and return it if its old. That poo poo cycles so fast tho it was probably made last month.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 04:22 |
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I got my current modem from BestBuy - I personally avoid Amazon unless there are literally no other options. I'm pretty sure you're more likely to get newer hardware through BestBuy than Amazon, too.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 07:31 |
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So I'm moving into the new house come next month, and I'm trying to overkill the home network. I'm looking at this modem, this router, these wireless access points, and even spending extra for "better cables". Is this a good enough set up? It's a 2-story, 3000 sqft place to cover, and it's gigabit service.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 07:46 |
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CaptainSarcastic posted:I got my current modem from BestBuy - I personally avoid Amazon unless there are literally no other options. I'm pretty sure you're more likely to get newer hardware through BestBuy than Amazon, too. Truly depends on what you're getting. For poo poo like a common cable modem where a thousand people are ordering them an hour the poo poo rotates quick.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 08:01 |
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Moved into a new place a couple weeks ago, the bottom half of a duplex apartment with roommates upstairs, and this past week, we got my FiOS account switched over. (I still had more than a year and a half left on the $74.99 pricing for gigabit service, $5 less than the current promotion.) Initially, we were hopeful that we could just plug the router into one of the RJ45 jacks around the apartment, as they said I could self-install and that was the way to do it, but it turned out that the terminal wasn't properly plugged in or re-provisioned, so they sent a tech over. It turned out that the wiring to the RJ45 jacks wasn't even good enough to get the signal to initialize the router, so he plugged it directly into the terminal in one of the bedroom closets. (Thankfully, we can get it out of the closet since the CAT6 fits under the door.) By and large, WiFi reception seems fine, even in my space downstairs. But I was curious if there's anything I should be doing to get the most out of it, like getting a longer cable to be able to maybe position the router more centrally? (In my previous apartment, there was a wall that messed it up, but it was an exterior wall and I suspect that's why.) Thanks!
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 08:15 |
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NovaLion posted:So I'm moving into the new house come next month, and I'm trying to overkill the home network. I'm looking at this modem, this router, these wireless access points, and even spending extra for "better cables". Is this a good enough set up? It's a 2-story, 3000 sqft place to cover, and it's gigabit service. You don't need the Nighthawk plus the mesh system. One of the mesh pods would be your main router. Personally, if I wanted simple I'd do an Eero 6 Pro. I think there are 3-4 mesh systems better than the Asus. Those cables are scammy. Buy monoprice cat6a patches if you want something reasonable and reliable. On the modem side: if you're going to be paying for unlimited with Comcast, the modem rental is free with that. If you're with a different provider, that's a reasonable choice.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 15:26 |
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davidbix posted:By and large, WiFi reception seems fine, even in my space downstairs. But I was curious if there's anything I should be doing to get the most out of it, like getting a longer cable to be able to maybe position the router more centrally? (In my previous apartment, there was a wall that messed it up, but it was an exterior wall and I suspect that's why.) You said there are RJ45 jacks around the apt -- do you know where they go? Do they feed back to the panel in the closet? The obvious upgrade would be to ensure that cable's terminated correctly or reterminate it, add a switch to the panel behind the router, plug in any high bandwidth devices that are near the jacks, or use it to scatter a mesh wifi system with a wired backhaul (or standalone wired APs) around the house. FIOS lets you bring your own router, so it's a good setup for that. If you're getting good speeds on wifi every place you work, I'd say do nothing as it falls into overkill territory.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 15:39 |
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CaptainSarcastic posted:I got my current modem from BestBuy - I personally avoid Amazon unless there are literally no other options. I'm pretty sure you're more likely to get newer hardware through BestBuy than Amazon, too. edit: of course, beaten
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 16:44 |
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Currently I am running an old version of the Unifi controller software (5.14.23.0) in a TrueNAS jail. I haven't updated it in a while because it seems like every time I do, something breaks and it takes me forever to fix. Is there an easy way to update it to a current 6.whatever software? Would it be easiest to just export my settings, delete the jail, do a fresh Controller software 6 install (of which I can't seem to find a good guide), and then import my settings?
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 17:18 |
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NovaLion posted:So I'm moving into the new house come next month, and I'm trying to overkill the home network. I'm looking at this modem, this router, these wireless access points, and even spending extra for "better cables". Is this a good enough set up? It's a 2-story, 3000 sqft place to cover, and it's gigabit service. If it isn’t already wired for Ethernet (or Fiber Optic if you’re crazy like me), I’d consider dropping the $3-4k for it. It’s good for resale these days and itll also let you hardwire the access points which will improve performance. I just had 4 drops of Fiber Optic put into my 2-story and it ran about $2250 after tax. That was about middle of the road pricing for my area. I did fiber optic as I have some parts I’d like to do 10Gig with (NAS to desktop) and I also already had switches and routers with SFP cages.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 17:50 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:Currently I am running an old version of the Unifi controller software (5.14.23.0) in a TrueNAS jail. I haven't updated it in a while because it seems like every time I do, something breaks and it takes me forever to fix. Is there an easy way to update it to a current 6.whatever software? Not sure if there's a pre-compiled package for unifi6 so you may just have to compile it yourself. I'd recommend creating a 2nd jail, installing the controller and importing the config, then turn off the 1st jail and use its IP address for the 2nd jail. Makes it easier to roll back should things go wrong, and using the same IP address means you don't have to mess with the inform address of the unifi devices.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 18:36 |
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Anyone ever setup firewall rules to block a specific MAC address from hitting the local network? Most of the google results I’m getting are tied to things like blocking internet access or it assumes the entire interface is being used for guest network. I tried a few variations of blocking local, blocking in, and allowing DHCP and DNS. All to no avail. The use case is I’ve got 5-10 IoT devices I want to have only internet access, no intranet access.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:17 |
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Just block RFC1918 IP addresses? IPv6 rules would be a bit more challenging.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:18 |
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Is there a gold-standard for low-cost home wifi in a newer apartment with limited line of sight for remote work, zoom calls, and streaming? Trying to get something for my sister on a budget.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:33 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:Currently I am running an old version of the Unifi controller software (5.14.23.0) in a TrueNAS jail. I haven't updated it in a while because it seems like every time I do, something breaks and it takes me forever to fix. Is there an easy way to update it to a current 6.whatever software? I see a unifi6 package up on FreshPorts but no precompiled package yet. But yea export your config and use a new jail.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:34 |
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Evis posted:Just block RFC1918 IP addresses? IPv6 rules would be a bit more challenging. I did that but got no dice. I can’t figure out why. I’ll post configs/pics in a bit.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:47 |
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withoutclass posted:I see a unifi6 package up on FreshPorts but no precompiled package yet. But yea export your config and use a new jail. Guess I know what I’m doing tonight.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 20:48 |
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rufius posted:The use case is I’ve got 5-10 IoT devices I want to have only internet access, no intranet access. You should be giving them static IPs or DHCP reservations and then blocking based on IP address. That said, you're trying to block internally -- that traffic doesn't flow through the firewall at all. It takes a pretty advanced switch to do what you want via something like a port ACL. Are these devices wired or wireless? You need to put them in different subnets and firewall the layer 3 boundary. For wireless, that's typically home SSID --> VLAN X, IOT SSID --> VLAN Y, and firewall at the router between them. You can also potentially use a built in guest wifi function for this if the devices don't need to talk to each other.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 21:00 |
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rufius posted:I did that but got no dice. I can’t figure out why. If you’re using an internal DNS server don’t forget to allow traffic to that.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 22:41 |
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rufius posted:Anyone ever setup firewall rules to block a specific MAC address from hitting the local network? Under those circumstances I'd turn on the Guest network in my router and put the IoT devices on that - it's by default not connected to my intranet.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 22:51 |
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rufius posted:If it isn’t already wired for Ethernet (or Fiber Optic if you’re crazy like me), I’d consider dropping the $3-4k for it. It’s good for resale these days and itll also let you hardwire the access points which will improve performance. If I have the house wired for Fiber, would that cause any hiccups with a non-fiber service? Or is that purely to communicate within the house?
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 22:57 |
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NovaLion posted:If I have the house wired for Fiber, would that cause any hiccups with a non-fiber service? Or is that purely to communicate within the house? Just for internal use.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 22:59 |
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KS posted:You should be giving them static IPs or DHCP reservations and then blocking based on IP address. That said, you're trying to block internally -- that traffic doesn't flow through the firewall at all. It takes a pretty advanced switch to do what you want via something like a port ACL. Are these devices wired or wireless? Hmmm I get it now. And I see why this is problematic. Damnit. Ya the problem with my guest wifi is it isn’t truly segregated. It segregates from other devices connected to the wireless AP’s but you can still hit hard wired devices. It’s annoying.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 23:15 |
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rufius posted:Anyone ever setup firewall rules to block a specific MAC address from hitting the local network? You need to put them on a VLAN and and not give that VLAN access to any other VLAN except the one that goes to Internet.
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# ? Jan 31, 2021 23:47 |
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NovaLion posted:If I have the house wired for Fiber, would that cause any hiccups with a non-fiber service? Or is that purely to communicate within the house? just think of it like roads fiber is like a interstate freeway your internet might be a unpaved road satellite or gravel road dsl or city street cable modem but you can turn from any of them onto yours, its just the local area network in your place would be blazing fast, and things would be as slow as the roads you connect to externally for destinations there
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 02:04 |
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I'm trying to think of reasons why my home network might be blocking me from downloading things from the Comixology and Audible apps, which it apparently is — at least, I can't load those things properly on my home network but can do it fine over a hotspot. I can browse their stores fine but trying to look at my library sends the app into total confusion.
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 06:35 |
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Do you have a pihole or any sort of blocking program running on your network where a list might have gotten updated to lock traffic to those sites?
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 13:33 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 06:04 |
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No, if I had anything like that going it would be less confusing.
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# ? Feb 1, 2021 15:07 |