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I'm trying to solve a printing issue. All three were printed on the same printer, same filament. The handle in back is the oldest print and was sliced in cura. The cube and belt sample were printed today, one after another, with the same settings from prusa slicer. There are a few things to dial in still but, what are those horizontal lines on the belt sample.  Going from Cura to Prusa, I duplicated the settings as well as I could. Not sure what I missed that could cause this issue. On the other hand, it is January and thus colder and the filament is now a month or so older. I've been trying to nail down this issue, but the fact that the cube was fine then the follow up wasn't is baffling.
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Jan 29, 2021 01:40
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Serenade posted:I'm trying to solve a printing issue. All three were printed on the same printer, same filament. What's the printer? Id be hoping on YouTube. Did you try cleaning the nozzle etc?
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Jan 29, 2021 02:14
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I need to buy a whole whack of gloves for resin stuff so I did some materials research and was surprised to learn that neither latex nor nitrile act as effective barriers against the irritating/sensitizing components in photopolymers, and that you should immediately remove and discard of said gloves upon any contact with resin. I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet in everything I've read. "Wear gloves", sure, but zip about how to actually use the gloves and why it matters. I don't see how it's possible to keep resin off your gloves given how resin-based printers are designed and how the user interacts with them, so following best practices w disposable gloves doesn't really sound practical. Butyl rubber is the ideal barrier material for handling esters like photopolymer resin, but disposable butyl gloves are nooooot cheap. I wonder if using thick 'not-single-use' butyl gloves and washing them after use- dip n lather your hands in a dedicated alcohol Glove Bath when you're done, or something like that- is a viable alternative. I don't like the waste of disposable gloves to begin with and find them very easily punctured by supports from prints, if I also have to go through a half-dozen pairs of gloves per print for them to actually work as intended then paying more for gloves I only have to replace every couple of months or w/e seems like a good idea. e: also improving my workflows could limit contact with resin a lot, which should definitely be the first line of defense. getting one of those wash n cure stations would help a lot but they'd almost double the price of the printer so that'll have to wait for a while Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 02:40
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w00tmonger posted:What's the printer? Id be hoping on YouTube. An Ender 3 with a microswiss hotend and hardened steel nozzle. I have cleaned out the nozzle, but haven't tried a different nozzle yet. This is my only 0.4 nozzle and I figured changing sizes would only complicate narrowing down the issue.
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Jan 29, 2021 03:26
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I had that kind of underextrusion from a tight extruder spring on my Ender 5. It wasn't tight enough to deform when the filament just passed through once, but if it retracted a couple of times over the same segment of filament then it'd squish and have trouble pushing it through the bowden resulting in something that looked a bit like what you have there. Simple things like the cube printed fine because there wasn't much retraction happening.
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Jan 29, 2021 03:40
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hoiyes posted:I had that kind of underextrusion from a tight extruder spring on my Ender 5. It wasn't tight enough to deform when the filament just passed through once, but if it retracted a couple of times over the same segment of filament then it'd squish and have trouble pushing it through the bowden resulting in something that looked a bit like what you have there. Simple things like the cube printed fine because there wasn't much retraction happening. I agree, I've had extrusion issues like that before, either the spring is too tight or too loose at some point. Often it results in spotty areas where it's not getting enough filament through. Sometimes the extruder gear teeth can be clogged up with plastic a bit if it's munched on some filament, too.
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Jan 29, 2021 04:00
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Serenade posted:I'm trying to solve a printing issue. All three were printed on the same printer, same filament. those are symptoms that would make me think you're right on the marginal bottom edge of your allowable temperature range. Go up 10 deg, I bet it all goes away. You're also running two things that ask for higher temps, first the all metal hot end, and the hardened nozzle. dyne posted:I'm going to be building two v0s. I bought two kits from magicstudio and just received my parts this week. I haven't started printing the needed parts yet though. I ~really~ want 200mm.... We'll see. I'll hop on the discord.
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Jan 29, 2021 04:28
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I bought my kids a prusa mini for christmas, but I've started having issues. We printed a few things, the frog that was preloaded and it came out great. Looks like very slight underextrusion. Check that your filament drive gear is clean and that the temperature is set right for the material.
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Jan 29, 2021 04:30
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'm also looking for dimensional accuracy tests that focus on resin-specific challenges; the variable horizontal distortion linked to where on the print table you are, how precision-fit parts change based on the print orientation, the relationship between z-step increments and final part accuracy, how to quantify and then compensate for part shrinkage, etc. I've got a feeling I'll have to make the more esoteric ones for myself, for some reason hobbyists aren't all falling over each other to print things that involve micrometers Update: found just what i was looking for, yesssssss https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4425184 (ofc it's just named "calibration" so i overlooked it a half-dozen times while searching) not just models, but a proper calibration system- models and a handbook walking you through four different diagnostic processes (gonna be an rear end in a top hat and call it "resin tramming") derived from conventional machining: - establishing a pre/post-cure shrinkage factor to control for distortions introduced during post-curing - calibrating exposure times to create the smallest possible distortion during the initial cure (involves repeated test prints where you multiply the error factor by exposure time to creep towards the ideal, which requires specifying exposure times accurate to two decimal points, which i didn't realize you could even do in chitubox), - a bed XY calibration process (using a printed machinist's Swiss cube, no less) that can do both of the above simultaneously if you're willing to use up a lot of resin - a simple tool zeroing method to improve Z-axis accuracy when printing directly off the build plate it uses a lot of resin printing and reprinting calibration tools, and you have to redo it for every resin you want to work accurately with, but yeah this is quite nicely-done and exactly what I wanted.the author says that a trammed machine can achieve a precision of +/- 0.05mm or better, which is in the territory of actual Precision Machining. i knew it was theoretically possible but not if it was practical to achieve with cheap hobby printers, seems it definitely is. glad i don't have to reinvent the wheel here Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 05:42
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I bought my kids a prusa mini for christmas, but I've started having issues. We printed a few things, the frog that was preloaded and it came out great. Looks to me like the filament isn't melting properly. So either the section of filament is bad or there is a very slight start of a clog forming in the nozzle. Cranking the heat up and purging for a bit will clean the nozzle out. Increasing the nozzle temp by 10 degrees may help with regular printing. If the filament really went to poo poo though, you may have to get a new unopened spool to try. A lot depends on the filament you're using and how humid it is where you are though. I had something similar happen with several "Silk" PLA spools recently and had to bump the hotend temp way up to 240 to make it extrude without clogging. The trade-off there is that the layer transitions get bumpy (so I basically went to the profile that has .3 first layer and .1 layers after that to mitigate it and use the material up on random poo poo).
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Jan 29, 2021 13:35
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Prusa Mini has a well documented issue with clogs due to the gap between PTFE tube and nozzle being too big. Could be that?
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Jan 29, 2021 14:36
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hoiyes posted:Are there any good ways to reuse old filament spools, or do you just throw them in the recycling. If you haven't got a surplus of Christmas lights to wrap up there's little swing it drawers on those that fit into standard sold, they look a neat way to store your various nuts bolts and nozzles. My supplier uses 100% cardboard reels now.
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Jan 29, 2021 14:47
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Lungboy posted:Prusa Mini has a well documented issue with clogs due to the gap between PTFE tube and nozzle being too big. Could be that? It'd be worth checking out. All you should have to do is loosen the nut above the hotend and slide the bushing a little further up the PTFE tube and then re-insert it. Worst case scenario you get a longer tube and make sure it's fully-inserted in the hotend before cutting the other end off for the extruder end and then put it back together.
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Jan 29, 2021 15:21
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I love how much Prusa is contributing to the 3D printing ecosystem with the work they're doing on PrusaSlicer but their UI people really make some of the most head-scratching design choices. None more confusing than the amount of brain power it takes me to understand how to get what I want when presented with this dialog: What is "Old Value" and what is "New Value"? "Transfer" what or "Discard" which values? In this case the 3mf file I loaded has older values from the preset so I want to override them with my current preset values. "New Value" is actually older than "Old Value", which is new. This could be made 10,000% clearer if they were labeled "Preset Value" and "Modified Value" and the Transfer and Discard buttons were relabeled "Use these" and "Use these" placed directly below the columns they represent instead of on the left and swapped between the order of the columns (the left button selects the right list currently). Something could be done with the Save and Cancel buttons too but the rest of this dialog just has my head spinning so hard I had to get on the Internet to complain about it.
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Jan 29, 2021 18:55
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CapnBry posted:I love how much Prusa is contributing to the 3D printing ecosystem with the work they're doing on PrusaSlicer but their UI people really make some of the most head-scratching design choices. None more confusing than the amount of brain power it takes me to understand how to get what I want when presented with this dialog: Eh, seemed logical enough to me. I like how it's done.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:57
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tried to use openSCAD to take advantage of some parametric tools people put together. after 20 minutes i have concluded that this must be an elaborate prank of some sort
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Jan 29, 2021 22:04
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CapnBry posted:I love how much Prusa is contributing to the 3D printing ecosystem with the work they're doing on PrusaSlicer but their UI people really make some of the most head-scratching design choices. None more confusing than the amount of brain power it takes me to understand how to get what I want when presented with this dialog: I get the "Old" and "New" but I'm frankly confused as to what exactly is or isn't going to happen by clicking any of the buttons. I'll have to read the release notes but until then I have been mashing DISCARD for everything always because I don't have the time right now to take a chance on loving up my production settings.
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Jan 29, 2021 23:32
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Transfer: Add the changes to the current preset Discard: Discard the changes Save: save a new preset Cancel: Haven't figured this one out yet.
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Jan 29, 2021 23:44
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I do think it's clunky, but the explanation probably is Transfer: use the 'new' settings and update a different preset Discard: throw out all the 'new' settings and leave the preset untouched Save: create a new preset with all the 'new' settings (under a new name) Cancel: go back and don't close the slicer/don't change the preset e: dammit, also hereby proving it's clunky 
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Jan 29, 2021 23:45
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CapnBry posted:I love how much Prusa is contributing to the 3D printing ecosystem with the work they're doing on PrusaSlicer but their UI people really make some of the most head-scratching design choices. Yeah they need to review some of the UI choices. I was just trying to figure out where the octoprint upload settings went:  So the whole "print host upload" section has been moved, but to a physical printer page. The physical printer page is on the same dropdown in the upper left that we're currently on, there's just sections to it now for physical printers vs .. logical printers?? I guess? (seems to be presets vs physical printers) After figuring out the setting I can see why they did it, they have a giant print farm of identical printers and want printer presets separate from the physical printer they're sending the gcode to, it's just the UI they put in is extremely non-intuitive.
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Jan 29, 2021 23:51
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hoiyes posted:I had that kind of underextrusion from a tight extruder spring on my Ender 5. It wasn't tight enough to deform when the filament just passed through once, but if it retracted a couple of times over the same segment of filament then it'd squish and have trouble pushing it through the bowden resulting in something that looked a bit like what you have there. Simple things like the cube printed fine because there wasn't much retraction happening. This fixed it. I distinctively remember thinking that screw was loose and tightening it. Didn't realize it could lead to this issue. Also explains why the cube was fine: very little retractions or quick layer changes in such a simple shape. This has been plaguing me for a few days, so thanks!
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Jan 30, 2021 00:52
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Ambrose Burnside posted:tried to use openSCAD to take advantage of some parametric tools people put together. after 20 minutes i have concluded that this must be an elaborate prank of some sort The existence of openSCAD is an elaborate prank.
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Jan 30, 2021 02:54
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for real tho, what's the application and why does it seem so popular w people producing 3d printed designs. i'm assuming you can code it into doing whatever you want p easily, so i get the parametric stuff I've seen, plus it's free, so maybe research/academic stuff? but as far as general users go, who would possibly want to use this for normal CAD tasks, it's just masochistic
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Jan 30, 2021 03:51
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Ambrose Burnside posted:for real tho, what's the application and why does it seem so popular w people producing 3d printed designs. i'm assuming you can code it into doing whatever you want p easily, so i get the parametric stuff I've seen, plus it's free, so maybe research/academic stuff? but as far as general users go, who would possibly want to use this for normal CAD tasks, it's just masochistic A big thing is that when it was adopted there were very few alternatives. Fusion, onshape, etc didn't exist. Solidworks and inventor are either hope you have an educational license or $$$$. Good low cost or free 3d modeling programs existed, but those are very much not cad. For all it's faults scad lets you make a dimensioned cube with a dimensioned hole going though at a specified spot, and then let you change it easily. It probably helped that many early reprappers were programmers, so scad wasn't totally foreign, just strange. Also it's open source so in a community that's built on open source slicers, firmware, and designs, it shouldn't be too surprising that some people are going to edge away from proprietary cad packages. I think it being the thing behind thingiverse's customizer gives it a boost as well. So now it's established as a 3d printer thing.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:41
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that tracks, thanks unrelated- is there an easy way to mask sections of parts out for the UV post-cure? it's a fairly chunky design that'd benefit from a hard cure, except for one part that's quite thin. thin parts seem to become brittle much faster than thicker sections*; if I wanted just that part to remain quite soft and springy, I should be able to apply something over that section partway through the post-cure cycle to arrest the process locally while the rest of it cooks a little more? *:my assumption is that post-curing has fairly shallow penetration into the part for opaque resins, which suggests to me that post-cured photopolymers are analogous to the case-hardening of steel, a process that hardens only the outer surface of a mass of metal, producing sth called a differential temper. you get a hard but brittle outer jacket, impractical for tools by itself, that is complemented by a softer, tougher core of un-cased metal, acting like a composite material of sorts- except for thin sections, which can harden through completely and end up unexpectedly-brittle once they lose that tough 'spine' in the middle Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 05:00
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Aurium posted:It probably helped that many early reprappers were programmers, so scad wasn't totally foreign, just strange. Speaking as a programmer: scad is totally foreign
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Jan 30, 2021 05:39
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I caved and ordered a Prusa Mini to replace my DoA Sapphire Pro. The 8 week wait is going to be bad.
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Jan 30, 2021 11:07
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Ordering things online when you are  is great because you forgot about it and then OH WOW COOL surprises come in the mail all the time. So do your best to forget.
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Jan 30, 2021 16:08
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I jumped from FreeCAD to OpenSCAD and I like it a lot more. It better matches how I think of the objects I want to make. In particular, parameterized modules to add and subtract from each other to combine into a final shape. It does help that I have a background in programming and functional programming, which seems to match OpenSCAD's language. Just a bunch of expressions chained into each other.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:00
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That is a great endorsement. Now I have to give it a try.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:07
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Y'all are loving whack but I am glad you're having fun.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:13
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Man, it would have saved me a lot of irritation last night if in the instructions on the octoprint setup page, they mentioned the whole "comment out your country" thing for wifi. I can't be the only idiot who got stuck on that particular part for a while. I mean, I can, but I'd just like to assume other people are as non technical as I am. Helps me sleep better. On another note, does anyone know if the kits for things like the corex/y printers have the wiring all done and you just need to assemble, or is it a soldering everything everywhere sort of situation?
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Jan 30, 2021 18:45
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:On another note, does anyone know if the kits for things like the corex/y printers have the wiring all done and you just need to assemble, or is it a soldering everything everywhere sort of situation? Soldering would be unusual, 99% of control boards have pin headers for the various cables and hot bed/hot end have generally have screw terminals. Only place soldering is generally used is the wires attached to the heat bed but usually you can pick a part that has it done already
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Jan 30, 2021 19:08
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re: openscad, i found a few attempts to make it more accessible by offering a gui for the code side of things, seems like good training wheels if you're not already a programmer https://graphscad.blogspot.com/ uses a node-based interface, i'm mucking around with it now https://www.blockscad3d.com/educators is apparently an alternative that better-preserves the programming-forward aspect and doesn't redefine a bunch of stuff to be nodular but it's hard to get much info from the website w/o registering and doing a tutorial
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Jan 30, 2021 19:54
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Freecad uses Openscad as its underlying solids engine if you feel like learning another obtuse piece of software.
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Jan 30, 2021 23:29
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:On another note, does anyone know if the kits for things like the corex/y printers have the wiring all done and you just need to assemble, or is it a soldering everything everywhere sort of situation? The BLV MGN Cube didn't need any soldering, but if you go down the route of a printer kit, it's seriously not a bad skill to have.
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Jan 31, 2021 00:11
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Sauer posted:Freecad uses Openscad as its underlying solids engine if you feel like learning another obtuse piece of software. lol no, it uses a real big boy CAD kernel
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Jan 31, 2021 00:28
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Yeah openSCAD doesn't do NURBS surfaces so it can't actually be used for engineering work. lmao @ polygons If you do use it for engineering work, you are no true scotsman.
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Jan 31, 2021 00:33
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Of note, even Prusa switched from OpenSCAD to Inventor
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Jan 31, 2021 01:01
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you know that genre of youtube reaction video all ELDERS WATCH APHEX TWIN VIDEO AND CANT BELIEVE IT etc? i would pay incredible money for a compilation of candid reactions as a series of, you know, Solidworks-born-&-bred mechanical CAD techs are introduced to openSCAD and asked to create a crude house out of primitives when it finally clicked that, oh no, it isn’t CAD *and* code, it’s CAD code, i definitely yelled “oh gently caress OFF” at my monitor Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jan 31, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 01:08
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