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Looks like I didn’t screw anything up too much, at least from the initial post-assembly check. Running through calibrations now.
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Jan 31, 2021 03:54
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That loose end on the roll is triggering me.
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Jan 31, 2021 04:24
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Welp my mistake. FreeCAD is still an interesting experience.
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Jan 31, 2021 04:45
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ImplicitAssembler posted:The BLV MGN Cube didn't need any soldering, but if you go down the route of a printer kit, it's seriously not a bad skill to have. Yea, I just have a weird phobia of soldering irons. Dumb as hell, but they spook the poo poo outta me. Maybe I got stabbed and cauterized in a past life. I've seen stuff online about the corex/y printers and seems like they can do a pretty fast print speed compared to the gigantic i3 clones I've seen (and own), but the downside is real estate being taken up by the printer and the whole "Yea you gotta build this fucker from the ground up" part. I've never built a kit printer, so I wasn't sure if they used connectors already or if it was a case of "bust out the ol' iron!" for the wiring of it. Appreciate the feedback, my dudes.
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Jan 31, 2021 05:03
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Rexxed posted:That loose end on the roll is triggering me. It’s since been secured. Part of the initial post-assembly check is to insert and remove the filament to verify sensor function. I just left it hanging for a few minutes. Printed a Prusa logo and things look pretty good. I need to dial in my first layer height a bit better though.
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Jan 31, 2021 05:36
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If you don’t burn the poo poo out of your hand, the table, and the table cloth you aren’t learning correctly.
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Jan 31, 2021 05:37
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smax posted:It’s since been secured. Part of the initial post-assembly check is to insert and remove the filament to verify sensor function. I just left it hanging for a few minutes. It's too late, your filament has already knotted
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Jan 31, 2021 05:46
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I don't like openscad. I've tried it, and done some midsized projects, and found that it has some deal killers. The first is the awful way it evaluates code. To quote the manual. Variables are set at compile-time, not run-time. code:It has lazy "clever" design. My biggest example here is the cylinder, which actually gives you some prism with some number of facets. If I wanted a prism, I'd have asked for a prism. Sure, I can specify a large number of sides, or a small fragment angle, or a small fragment length, but other programs get this right without any intervention on me. This is the developers passing on some work and going wouldn't it be clever if we could just combine n-gonal prism and cylinder, and it'll be fine. You can't do anything with the geometry it calculates. Lets say I want a sphere at a corner of a cube. I can't tell it to put something at the corner of a cube, I have to calculate a point that's coincidentally at the same point as the corner. It's not hard if it's at the origin and still orthogonal to the axes, but if you translate and rotate it a bit you've got yourself a math problem. That's just a cube, it's even worse if you've gotten some kind nontrivial geometry. Scad knows where these features are. It calculated them, now let me use them. I admit it wouldn't be trivial to uniquely describe them. It can be done, and other programs do it. It just has bad performance. The preview has fine performance, of course, but it only stays accurate for simple things. Getting the actual model is slow, and you'll be doing it a fair bit. Again, other programs get this right, or at least better. I admit that if you go back half way into a large project in fusion it'll have to recalculate a bunch of things, but for the incremental work it's fast. I'll also admit that there's probably more of a challenge avoid recomputing when it's equally easy to insert anything anywhere.
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Jan 31, 2021 06:01
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Aurium posted:It has lazy "clever" design. My biggest example here is the cylinder, which actually gives you some prism with some number of facets. If I wanted a prism, I'd have asked for a prism. Sure, I can specify a large number of sides, or a small fragment angle, or a small fragment length, but other programs get this right without any intervention on me. This is the developers passing on some work and going wouldn't it be clever if we could just combine n-gonal prism and cylinder, and it'll be fine. Nah, it's like that because OpenSCAD is a polygonal modeler masquerading as a CAD program. Literally, it's all polygons under the hood. And it will always be that way because it has several functions that can only be computed on polygon meshes.
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Jan 31, 2021 06:51
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BMan posted:It's too late, your filament has already knotted 
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Jan 31, 2021 07:32
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I've been trying to get supports working perfectly on a particularly tough model on my resin printer. Did a bit of googling and I have high hopes for swapping to prusaslicer form autosupports vs chitibox. Any have any suggestions for ideals supports on an elagoo mars pro@
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Jan 31, 2021 07:40
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I tend to rotate the item about 45 degrees and go heavy on the supports. Just depends on what kind of finish you are looking for vs how much fiddling you want to do.
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Jan 31, 2021 07:41
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w00tmonger posted:I've been trying to get supports working perfectly on a particularly tough model on my resin printer. Did a bit of googling and I have high hopes for swapping to prusaslicer form autosupports vs chitibox. Any have any suggestions for ideals supports on an elagoo mars pro@ Got a pic of the model?
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Jan 31, 2021 16:54
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Doctor Zero posted:Got a pic of the model? The fuckin axe in the back. Generating supports in prusaslicer to see if that does the trick but the ptesupported model I got seems really inconsistent. Only model I've had issues with on the machine 
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Jan 31, 2021 18:13
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Uncle Jessy did a video about Lychee slicer for resin printers, an alternative to chitubox: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5I3FKHxB7qI
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Jan 31, 2021 19:32
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w00tmonger posted:The fuckin axe in the back. Generating supports in prusaslicer to see if that does the trick but the ptesupported model I got seems really inconsistent. Only model I've had issues with on the machine Ah, yea that one's on my to print list. Are you putting the holes in the bottom of the guy?
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Jan 31, 2021 19:59
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Ah, yea that one's on my to print list. Are you putting the holes in the bottom of the guy? Not Hollowing at all. Thought about it but he's not big enough to make it worth it. Really you want a hole on the top and on the bottom somewhere so that you can deal with drainage without creating a vacume w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 31, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 20:06
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My Mini is supposed to arrive tomorrow aaaaaaaa
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Jan 31, 2021 23:21
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Rexxed posted:Uncle Jessy did a video about Lychee slicer for resin printers, an alternative to chitubox: Yeah. I've switched to Lychee for adding supports. For that beholder it looks like a bitch and a half. Epic doesn't have pre-supported version? I would try to tilt it 25-35% degrees to the left, so the axe doesn't have any islands. I think that would work. 
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Jan 31, 2021 23:33
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re: resin slicers, prusa generally does a better + tidier job than chitubox, and its auto-support generally seems to provide better results, but there are a couple exceptions or individual features chitubox does better. re: the former, - ive found prusa's default support geometries much easier to remove post-print, and they leave far fewer surface blemishes, particularly cratering that's a hassle to touch up. chitubox has a lot of options here but a lot of them seem functionally-cosmetic - the support networks prusa generates link together in a more cohesive, practical way, i find chitu's stuff tends towards cramped bramble-lookin things that trap uncured resin - prusa implements pads in a much better way and respects stuff like model clearances better, so i get less blemishes from close supports fusing to the model - prusa does hollowing much better, particularly by letting you control the smoothing factor to get rid of awkward little crevices in arms/legs that are impossible to flush out post-print - it also makes an effort to anchor supports through the holes you create so you can fully remove them after printing chitu does a few things better: - it's much less picky about geometry issues with files, i've never had it reject an .stl in the way prusa does fairly regularly - chitu letting you carve square and hex-shaped holes is a very nice Poor Man's Screw Countersinker for when it's not worth booting up the CAM software to make a quick edit - chitu also lets you carve holes parallel to the display, which is mysteriously absent from prusa - chitu lets you directly-modify placed supports, pulling and pushing various segments around, while prusa limits you to editing the support node (i'm p sure, should double-check this one) re: lychee, does the free version have ads? i read sth about that in an article and that put me off it pretty thoroughly, but if it's a better slicer... Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 00:03
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neongrey posted:My Mini is supposed to arrive tomorrow aaaaaaaa Mine was supposed to be shipped this week, but I haven't heard a peep 
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Feb 1, 2021 00:48
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Doctor Zero posted:Yeah. I've switched to Lychee for adding supports. They have a presupport but I legit haven't had it work. Mild success rotating in chitibox but I feel I can do better Current attempt is rotating it back 45 ish degrees with prusa autosupports at about 50% density with a couple extras on the axe. So far it's looking really promising. Epic miniatures presupport have all been 10/10 other than this one in particular. Even the regular beholder has been fine presupported Ambrose Burnside posted:re: resin slicers, Have a go to prusa with defaults for minis? Am I about right in thinking 50% density after maybe doing auto orient? There was a minimum spacing setting in there as well I think? E: trip report. 50% waaaay better. Bet I could go even lower. on a model like this with a lot of surface texture, it seems like its also necessary to adjust minimum supports so it doesn't try to fill every little hole. spacing of 3 seems about right in this case w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 01:10
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That moment when you realize why your prints always started with wrong z height, no matter how often you adjusted the z offset in the lwvelling settings. It's because my start GCODE was the one for using a bltouch which i experimented with a while ago. Considering that, I am truely impressed with how well a lot of my recent prints turned out (after babystepping them). Finally changed the code to properly invoke bed levelling and my problems have disappeared.
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Feb 1, 2021 16:15
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smax posted:It’s since been secured. Part of the initial post-assembly check is to insert and remove the filament to verify sensor function. I just left it hanging for a few minutes. This sorta got dropped, but really the filament is probably tangled now. Loosen it and pull like 40 coils off at once from the SIDE of the spool. Keep pulling bundles of coils off until there's only 1 strand connecting what's in your hand to the spool. At this point, the tangle is in your hands, and you can wind it back onto the spool.
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Feb 1, 2021 21:09
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insta posted:This sorta got dropped, but really the filament is probably tangled now. Loosen it and pull like 40 coils off at once from the SIDE of the spool. Keep pulling bundles of coils off until there's only 1 strand connecting what's in your hand to the spool. At this point, the tangle is in your hands, and you can wind it back onto the spool. I checked it before I used it and it looked OK, it didn't get too screwed up. I've since used it some with no issues.
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Feb 1, 2021 21:39
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smax posted:I checked it before I used it and it looked OK, it didn't get too screwed up. I've since used it some with no issues. Takes 10-15 seconds to pull the coils off, if it wasn't tangled it wasn't tangled. If it was tangled, that 10-15 seconds saved you a ruined print. I mean, you do you, but ...
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Feb 1, 2021 22:05
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so Im getting really intermittent issues with supports not working on some pre-supported resin models. Should I be looking at increasing my exposure time at all to help? Im sitting at 7 seconds exposure on some abs like resin, 0.025mm layer height
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Feb 2, 2021 15:52
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w00tmonger posted:so Im getting really intermittent issues with supports not working on some pre-supported resin models. Should I be looking at increasing my exposure time at all to help? Im sitting at 7 seconds exposure on some abs like resin, 0.025mm layer height Boosting that slightly can make a big difference with that, yes. Otherwise anything you can do to boost temp for the resin/printer can also be beneficial.
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Feb 2, 2021 16:20
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I've got a litre of Siraya Blu resin coming in today, apparently it offers great surface detail and hardness while also performing well mechanically. really excited to try it out for functional stuff, i figure it might be a good candidate for tool/die masters as well. my lack of heating for the resin tank will probably be an issue, though, siraya is p clear about their higher-performing resins all being intended for use at 30-35C or higher if possible.
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Feb 2, 2021 16:46
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In PrusaSlicer 2.3.0 for resin printing: I want to print an object directly onto the build plate, no pad, but add manual supports in a couple of critical areas. If I set the object elevation to 0mm and disable the pad it tells me the configuration is invalid and I need to have the pad enabled to do supports at all. If I oh-so-cleverly leave the pad enabled but set it to zero size then it tells me that the size is invalid for the given configuration. What's the magic combination that tells PrusaSlicer to please just do what I'm telling it to do? For what it's worth I can get Chitubox to do this - 0mm elevation, no raft, disable or strictly dial down the support bottom platform touch shape/diameter. For a one-off this isn't bad but in general I prefer to do supports in PrusaSlicer and export to Chitubox.
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Feb 2, 2021 17:36
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w00tmonger posted:so Im getting really intermittent issues with supports not working on some pre-supported resin models. Should I be looking at increasing my exposure time at all to help? Im sitting at 7 seconds exposure on some abs like resin, 0.025mm layer height Don’t you have a mono printer? Seems kinda long if so. It’s also possible you have to add a few more yourself. I’ve had to do that on occasion.
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Feb 2, 2021 18:11
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Doctor Zero posted:Don’t you have a mono printer? Seems kinda long if so. I dont have a mono. mars pro, but I'm definitely overexposing at 0.025 mm height. Calibration on 7s is DEFINITLY overexposing. looking like 5 is way more appropriate. 6 is a bit too much, running 5.5 test now I think what was happening is the overexposure was making the very small supports here and there over brittle, causing them to snap and goof prints occasionally
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Feb 2, 2021 18:14
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w00tmonger posted:I dont have a mono. mars pro, but I'm definitely overexposing at 0.025 mm height. Calibration on 7s is DEFINITLY overexposing. looking like 5 is way more appropriate. 6 is a bit too much, running 5.5 test now fwiw i've been using 6s exposure for 0.025, same machine and same resin as you, haven't had a print fail because of supports since the day i started using it. then again the room it's in is fairly cold (def below 20C) so slightly longer exposures are warranted. 7s is definitely too long though yeah
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Feb 2, 2021 18:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:fwiw i've been using 6s exposure for 0.025, same machine and same resin as you, haven't had a print fail because of supports since the day i started using it. then again the room it's in is fairly cold (def below 20C) so slightly longer exposures are warranted. 7s is definitely too long though yeah Yeah I'm running this xp2 test and 5 is looking pretty perfect. 6 is definitely overexposing but I'm not sure if I'd notice unless I had run this test calibration. Even 5.5 was barely overexposing. Running 4.5 now but I suspect that will be too little. E: 5 is ideal. Surface artifacts are floaters from previous tests 
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Feb 2, 2021 18:43
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Will the superpinda retrofit on a prusa mk2(s) without firmware updates etc? I'm going insane with first layer heights / PETG right now
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Feb 2, 2021 18:52
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i really wanna tackle some sort of mechanism, a clock movement or sth like that, but they're all built for FDM printing and i'd probably need to completely redesign the springs for them to work as intended. ho-hum. i guess a pendulum design wouldn't have the same issues, as long as the parts are robust enough...
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Feb 2, 2021 19:28
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mewse posted:Will the superpinda retrofit on a prusa mk2(s) without firmware updates etc? I'm going insane with first layer heights / PETG right now Speaking of Prusa, I upgraded my MK2/S to a MK3S+ and these textured sheets are amazing. I wasn't too excited when I first saw them but goddamn they're amazing. I can print tall narrow objects with no problem, and after it cools PETG parts just pop off as soon as I touch them.
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Feb 2, 2021 19:34
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csammis posted:In PrusaSlicer 2.3.0 for resin printing: I want to print an object directly onto the build plate, no pad, but add manual supports in a couple of critical areas. If I set the object elevation to 0mm and disable the pad it tells me the configuration is invalid and I need to have the pad enabled to do supports at all. If I oh-so-cleverly leave the pad enabled but set it to zero size then it tells me that the size is invalid for the given configuration. What's the magic combination that tells PrusaSlicer to please just do what I'm telling it to do? Pad around object. It ignores object elevation, leaving your part contacting the plate however you've configured it, and creates a pad around your part with a gap but multiple sprues connecting everything. I like it quite a bit, it makes for much better supports when you're not using a full-sized pad. The one thing I've had to do is change the gap between the pad and part from 1mm to at least 2, the base layers end up a little bigger than the rest and I find they tend to fuse with the part with a 1mm gap, it usually ruins the part.
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Feb 2, 2021 20:01
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yeah increasing the gap is mandatory. I fixed my dumb beholder issue putting it up to 3 at 75% density. actually makes the supports removable!
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Feb 2, 2021 20:32
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AAAAAAND it's done. Voron V0 kit is ordred. Should be here the week after Valentines day. Now.. I need to print stuff. I have an Ender 3. So... I have a bit of an uphill battle I think. I'd like to do it with as little infrastructure as possible, but voron prescribes ABS. I have some.... Should I aim to print S L O W? or normal speeds? Will a wall help? or should I just suck it up and go with the trashbag or cardboard box solution
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Feb 2, 2021 21:08
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