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Quick and dirty design and print of a rod balancing rig for my build.  Block is mostly measured now, just to verify the machine shops work.  Up next is ring gapping then assembly of the short block should start soon.
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Feb 1, 2021 17:57
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I have a '20 Outback XT, intentionally, for the vrooms. I'm happy with the power, but I only care about it for passing or on-ramps--if I wanted motoring performance I'd buy a WRX. The FA24 also gives a bump in towing capacity (2700 to 3500), which is probably a very irrelevant fact. Dual exhaust, too. The nice thing about the FA24 is that it's also the standard (only?) engine for the Ascent, so it shouldn't be such a rare bird. I've seen a lot more Ascents on the road than XT Outbacks/Foresters.
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Feb 1, 2021 23:23
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I'd be Outback anyday. It's just simply a better vehicle Completely agree with this. I've driven both the current models and the Outback just feels more solid and more like a premium product. It's quieter on the road, the ride is more composed, and I think the interior is a bit better. On the personal preference front, the current Forester is not a great looking vehicle. Not that the Outback is turning heads, but the Forester.... yikes.
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Feb 1, 2021 23:26
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It's no first gen B9 Tribeca.
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Feb 1, 2021 23:27
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Thanks for the info. If we buy (and stick with Subaru) we'll very likely go Outback... probably XT.
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Feb 2, 2021 06:39
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I was never able to find tools to measure the block that were accurate to the tolerances required. Nice work on measuring all that.
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Feb 2, 2021 11:51
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I went down the same rabbit hole. The only tools that were properly accurate (aka accuracy and repeatability significantly better than the tolerance range) were hard to find and well out side my budget. I ended up finding a brand new Mitutoyo bore gauge at a reasonable price and its claimed accuracy is close enough that I was willing to use it. As I recall, its repeatability is about 50% of my total tolerance range. Since I had a really good machine shop do this work, this is more or less a sanity check for me. For the smaller holes, like checking the cam shaft bores I threw in the towel and am just using snap gauges. I want to believe they are fine, so as long as the snap gauges agree with what I want them to say Ill probably trust them.
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Feb 2, 2021 13:26
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That rear corner window is one of the reasons I fell for these cars. I love the entire rear of this gen from any angle. I like the front too. And the sides. 
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Feb 2, 2021 16:30
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daslog posted:I was never able to find tools to measure the block that were accurate to the tolerances required. Nice work on measuring all that.
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Feb 2, 2021 16:32
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stevobob posted:That rear corner window is one of the reasons I fell for these cars. I love the entire rear of this gen from any angle. I like the front too. And the sides. Honestly Im super excited to have the car back together. Ive picked up an STi scoop, JDM sedan front bumper, and sedan fenders.  Just not excited for having to repaint the bumper, its so pretty. slidebite posted:What tolerances are required? Per tolerances, cylinder diameter tolerances is 0.0004", standard cylinder taper tolerance is 0.0006", and out of roundness is 0.0004". Most bore gauges I was looking at read in the tenths, but documentation claims repeatability around 8 tenths, the Mitutoyo I picked up should be accurate to around 2 tenths. The newest ones claim to be around 1 tenth.
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Feb 2, 2021 17:02
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:It's no first gen B9 Tribeca. I legit had a choice between that and my 2010 OB.
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Feb 2, 2021 19:34
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how much of a pain in the rear end is it to delete aircon on an EJ? 1995 EJ18 if that matters
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Feb 2, 2021 19:39
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OMGVBFLOL posted:how much of a pain in the rear end is it to delete aircon on an EJ? 1995 EJ18 if that matters Not hugely. Depends if you want to remove the under dash part of it as well which THAT is painful
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Feb 2, 2021 19:54
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I can buy a whole toyota corolla for the price of an o2 sensor for my similarly aged outback Wtf is wrong with the world
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Feb 4, 2021 02:24
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I recently got a flat in the front on a long-ish trip on my 2007 2.5i automatic legacy and rather than reading the manual closely, I skimmed it, and completely missed the part where I was supposed to put the donut on the rear wheel and put it into FWD only mode, so I did not do that, and instead just swapped the tire and drove home (90 mi) at 50mph. I then read that my consequences were either nothing, as the computer can figure out the wheel circumference anyway, to if you go 10 more than miles with mismatched tires you've hosed up the transmission irreparably. So where on that spectrum am I? I say "flat", but I hit a rock going down a canyon that the car in front of me kicked out. 
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Feb 4, 2021 18:23
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IANAL but while this probably did put some added stress on the differentials (due to the significantly mismatched tire circumference), only 90 miles probably isn't going to be a big deal in terms of long term wear. I wouldn't worry about it. I believe the donut on the front portion of the manual is more about ensuring you have better traction on your steering wheels, rather than an additional risk for your AWD system (in the case where you didn't switch to FWD mode).
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Feb 4, 2021 18:56
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Splinter posted:IANAL but while this probably did put some added stress on the differentials (due to the significantly mismatched tire circumference), only 90 miles probably isn't going to be a big deal in terms of long term wear. I wouldn't worry about it. I believe the donut on the front portion of the manual is more about ensuring you have better traction on your steering wheels, rather than an additional risk for your AWD system (in the case where you didn't switch to FWD mode). ty.
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Feb 9, 2021 23:43
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simplefish posted:I can buy a whole toyota corolla for the price of an o2 sensor for my similarly aged outback Uh where are you getting it from?
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Feb 10, 2021 00:29
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Justin Beardmans Artisanal Oxygen Sensor Emporium & Bespoke Haberdashery
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Feb 10, 2021 22:38
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Majere posted:Justin Beardmans Artisanal Oxygen Sensor Emporium & Bespoke Haberdashery Too good not to be immortalised
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Feb 11, 2021 03:04
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Too good not to be immortalised lol nice touch with the headgasketry
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Feb 11, 2021 04:05
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It's beautiful.
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Feb 11, 2021 20:29
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Any strong opinions on what the best spring and damper combo for a current gen WRX is? I was initially thinking of just snatching up a used STI set but now I'm debating if it'd be best to get something like a Bilstein and RCE combo or similar.
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Feb 13, 2021 00:29
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Racecomp Engineering Tarmac 2 or KW's V3. I have the former for dual duty and I keep up with the best of them
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Feb 13, 2021 00:36
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MCA Reds if you can swing it. Anything by MCA really.
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Feb 13, 2021 00:47
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McTinkerson posted:MCA Reds if you can swing it. Anything by MCA really. MCA is always the answer
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Feb 13, 2021 01:29
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I was thinking of avoiding coilovers since I didn't want to deal with all the adjustments which is why I was looking at spring and damper instead.
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Feb 13, 2021 02:03
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Well in that case I know Bilsteins B series stuff is pretty good for miatas, and I do see they offer the B6 Sport and B8 performance for the WRX/STI. Find a good spring combo and you're all set. My springs are 500 lbs/in all around, you might find the rears a little strong but I also run factory sway bars and need the extra rate for decent turn in performance. That said, what are you using the car for? I do some light track duty, full seasons of autocross, and daily. The adjustable rates of a coilover, especially the huge range of the RCE, have been a godsend in making the car tolerable. If this isn't a track day car I think the factory shocks + spring kit might be all you need. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Feb 13, 2021 |
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Feb 13, 2021 02:24
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Wrar posted:Uh where are you getting it from? Repco, which seems to be Autozone by the logo? Nearest junkyard a 3 hour drive away It's a 2004 Outback so when I saw a 2004 Corolla I was shocked it costs what they wanna charge me for a sensor Nice with the thread title by the way!
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Feb 13, 2021 03:07
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um excuse me posted:Well in that case I know Bilsteins B series stuff is pretty good for miatas, and I do see they offer the B6 Sport and B8 performance for the WRX/STI. Find a good spring combo and you're all set. My springs are 500 lbs/in all around, you might find the rears a little strong but I also run factory sway bars and need the extra rate for decent turn in performance. It's a daily with the occasional track day and more often autocross. Although with the way things have been autocrosses are non-existent now 
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Feb 13, 2021 18:57
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Same here, the silver lining with me is that I took 2020 as a hiatus from racing to recover the finances a bit after blowing a motor anyways. My club kept racing because the president is a chud. But I digress. I would totally recommend a spring kit or at the very most a B6 Sport shock. Much more aggressive than that and it'll be a chore to daily. That is if you're absolutely against coilovers.
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Feb 13, 2021 19:15
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I'm not sure who sells and services MCA in the us so they might not be a good choice. I'd lean toward some sort of a KW. There are a bunch that are nearly the same thing under different names but I can narrow it down to two: The RCE Tarmac 2 is definitely the best, nicest version of the street/track stuff, and I'd for sure pick those over the standard Variant 3 as they cost about the same but come with more balanced spring rates. KW likes to put really soft, sometimes progressive rear springs on everything which makes the ride really comfortable and doesn't hurt the nice turn in feel you get with stiffer fronts, but makes the car understeer a lot. Especially on the more recent multi-link subarus. At the less expensive end of KW I really like greddy's version. It's a 1-way adjustable and comes with the clubsport camber/caster plates that add bump travel, and way better spring rates (8k front and rear, or 448 lb/in). It does use the galvanized housings like ST instead of the stainless KW parts. I could probably get those in the 1500 range, msrp is 1700. Bilstein B6 with RCE yellows would be the strut/spring combo to go with. That's somewhere over 1k without top mounts or a rebound adjuster. For auto-x and track the springs will be a little soft and it'll be harder to get enough negative camber up front, but for regular driving it'll be great. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Feb 13, 2021 |
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Feb 13, 2021 20:08
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simplefish posted:Repco, which seems to be Autozone by the logo? You could probably order the same thing from rock auto or Amazon for way less
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Feb 13, 2021 20:38
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Getting to the point that Im looking at fitting these dumb STi brembos under my 04 WRX wagon. I love the old school TE37/JDM/Rally(speedline) 5 spoke look. I also love gold wheels on Subaru's. What I dont love is how much loving money places like Fifteen52 want for cast wheels. I feel like if I'm going to get garbage cast wheels, I might as well get Rota Grids or something for way less money. Any ideas of wheels that are maybe better made for a similar look at a reasonable price that would fit bremos? The Fifteen52s:  https://fifteen52.com/collections/street-wheels/products/super-touring-chicane-gold?variant=32287302484034 Sadi fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Feb 16, 2021 |
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Feb 16, 2021 16:58
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Sadi posted:Getting to the point that Im looking at fitting these dumb STi brembos under my 04 WRX wagon. I love the old school TE37/JDM/Rally(speedline) 5 spoke look. I also love gold wheels on Subaru's. What I dont love is how much loving money places like Fifteen52 want for cast wheels. I feel like if I'm going to get garbage cast wheels, I might as well get Rota Grids or something for way less money. Any ideas of wheels that are maybe better made for a similar look at a reasonable price that would fit bremos? Avid 1 is another affordable Rota-like brand with a couple of familiar looking 5-spoke designs, but they curiously don't seem to do gold, just matte bronze. No comment on the Brembo fitment! I'd definitely contact them first to confirm, because those newer STi Brembos are big boys.
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Feb 16, 2021 17:20
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What is your definition of reasonable price? Enkei PF-05's are probably the current king of OG JDM 5 spokes (They were released in 2020.)  https://enkei.com/shop/wheels/racing/pf05/
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Feb 16, 2021 17:37
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The Fifteen52’s he’s talking about are 260, and PF05’s are a going to be about 100 more, but you are at least getting a wheel that is cast and then cold worked/formed so it’s closer to a forged wheel. Enkei TS6 is cheaper but it’s a 6 spoke. TS5’s are also close to what you are looking for but they only come in black/silver/bronze. Enkei Kojins are also nice but again, only silver and black.
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Feb 16, 2021 19:06
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Are you talking about the oem 6-pots up front or just the older ones? I'm not sure what the piston sizes are on those and they might result in a little bit far forward bias. The 4-pots sure do. In 5x100, 18x9, +40 the pf05 are about $400 each. 18x8.5 +45 marginally less. I can order enkeis but I'm not sure I can be very competitive by the time they're actually delivered.
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Feb 16, 2021 20:18
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jamal posted:Are you talking about the oem 6-pots up front or just the older ones? I'm not sure what the piston sizes are on those and they might result in a little bit far forward bias. The 4-pots sure do. I have the 08+ black bremos, not those new sweet big ones. Those PF05s or TS-6s look like they might be winners. I wish those TS-5s were available in gold. Im not afraid of spending a little bit more than the Fifteens to get a better where. Im just not into spending TE37 money on wheels. Sadi fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Feb 16, 2021 |
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Feb 16, 2021 22:45
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So, the Forester (2017 XT) wouldn't start today. It has had a couple of slow starts in the last month or so, so I suspect it's just time to replace the battery. It jumped with my little starter unit immediately, but now it has a CEL (non-flashing) and every freaking light on the dash is lit up, which it definitely did not do the last time I had to jump it (two car-to-car jump starts in its lifetime, once when Tet Jr played with the dome light switch on a cold night, and once when I left the radio on like a dummy). EyeSight is disabled, and it's stuck in Sport mode. To add to the fun, I do not have a code reader. Does anyone have any experience with happening? Also, a factor that could be weirdly problematic: I have my vehicle inspection on Monday. If this is something that requires me to disconnect the battery and do an ECU reset, doesn't that clear my emissions history and possibly cause a failed inspection? Good times. For now I have it on a trickle charger.
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Feb 20, 2021 17:36
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