|
FiskTireBoy posted:Tell me if this is a bad idea (I suspect it is). I want to spray Tamiya spray paint indoors. I was thinking of opening the sliding glass door in my apartment and spraying in a box that has a fan pointed towards the open door. Its not the most efficient exhaust method but my hands are kind of tied right now. Its like 40 degrees outside so not very good spray paint weather. Just keep everything warm inside until the exact moment you're about to go outside to spray paint, nothing is going to change temperature enough in the few seconds you're outside spraying enough to make a notable difference.
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 13:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:40 |
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:Spray cans do pump out a hell of a lot of fumes. I'd just take everything outside quick and spray it, then bring the parts back in and put them in the oven (turned off) to dry. Due to the thin film of grease coating the walls of the oven, there is little to no dust in there to mess up your paint job. Just put a note near the oven controls to remind yourself or anybody else your parts are inside so they don't start preheating it for a pizza. ... so I painted my house with killz a few years back. I had to throw out anything that wasn't canned because the organics made it through the bags and packaging. I don't want that in my oven. For drying/curing inside, I turn on the vent fan over my stove, as mine is outside exhausting. When painting when it's less than say.. 60deg out, try for a dry day. Also, make sure your part/paint are both warm. hair dryers make amazing ovens when combined with a big cardboard box.. and you can leave that outside.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 17:38
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:I've done this once, your whole apartment will smell like spray paint for an hour or so no matter how good you think your exhaust setup is. If you want to wear a respirator the whole time, more power to you. The other day, I went down to my unfinished basement because of very high winds and thought "how bad can it be? There's no return air down there to spread stink to the rest of the house." Turns out I was hyper-wrong.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 20:06
|
|
|
Sash! posted:how bad can it be?
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2021 22:44
|
|
|
Anyone recommend a tank kit with a full interior? I’ve been thinking about getting a Rye Field Tiger I, but it looks pretty daunting. I just got back into modeling after a few years and picked up a Tamiya Wespe Italian Front and it’s a great kit for the price. Basically looking for an interior model that isn’t insane. Space Jam fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Feb 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 10:17
|
|
|
Space Jam posted:Anyone recommend a tank kit with a full interior? I’ve been thinking about getting a Rye Field Tiger I, but it looks pretty daunting. I just got back into modeling after a few years and picked up a Tamiya Wespe Italian Front and it’s a great kit for the price. Eh, just about any kit marketed with a "full interior" is going to be pretty crowded. That said, they can be really rewarding kits. I personally really liked the AFV Club T-34/85 that I did a couple years ago. It's challenging, but not overly fiddly nor expensive. The T-34 isn't an overly-complex beast either, so the full interior components of the kit are similarly uncomplex. This was the kit I used, but it looks like it's out of stock most places. AFV Club also makes an M18 Hellcat with a somewhat abbreviated interior if that's your thing. It's on my bench right now and it's decent.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 14:44
|
|
|
Space Jam posted:Anyone recommend a tank kit with a full interior? I’ve been thinking about getting a Rye Field Tiger I, but it looks pretty daunting. I just got back into modeling after a few years and picked up a Tamiya Wespe Italian Front and it’s a great kit for the price. "Full interior" and "isn't insane" is going to be a hard balance to strike. Maybe Academy Stuart and Lee tanks? There is an interior, but it's simplified. The Revell Pz.Kpfw.38(t) also has a nice and simple interior. If you want something newer, the Tamiya SU-76M has an interior for the open top portion, but not the driver's compartment.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 14:54
|
|
|
dragon’s marder 3 has a reasonable interior. there’s engine and transmission stuff you can see through open hatches and the fighting compartment in back is completely open to the air however it’s also a dragon kit with individual track links
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 15:31
|
|
|
Dragon's individual track links are better than their DS tracks, a garbage material that's somehow worse than vinyl to work with.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 15:35
|
|
|
Can confirm RFM full interior kits are entirely on the insane side of the dial. Nice, but not what you'd call a weekend build. The Meng FTs should all be full interiors, and they're pretty simple as both tanks and interior layouts. Most of the parts are in the tracks and running gear, which is something to keep in mind - if you've already sprung for a full interior kit, you're probably going to get individual track links and all the special tedium that entails. The FT tracks are regular rigid styrene, at least. A happy medium might be to get a standard kit and buy some aftermarket detailing bits, like turret details and an engine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 15:46
|
|
|
Space Jam posted:Anyone recommend a tank kit with a full interior? I’ve been thinking about getting a Rye Field Tiger I, but it looks pretty daunting. I just got back into modeling after a few years and picked up a Tamiya Wespe Italian Front and it’s a great kit for the price. Academy Stuart "Honey" is a good fit for that. A fun build, fits well and has a good enough interior.
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2021 21:13
|
|
|
There, now I won't forget. Also painted up the engine. Small progress is better than none. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2021 17:55
|
|
|
Upgraded my display situation after I filled the two shelves I had available. Decided to get some lights as well while I was at it which while it blows out the details a littel in photos looks good in person and I'm well happy that I decided to do it. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 09:51
|
|
|
Man that looks really nice. Is that a Hasegawa Lambo Mirua? And who makes the Porsches on the top right?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 10:35
|
|
|
yeah thats a hasegawa lambo that I painted in whatever yellow I had at the time. The porsches are both tamiya kits just with different decals. They're really nice kits to put together even if the semi gloss black trim is a pain to get right.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 10:41
|
|
|
so I have an iwata ninja jet compressor for my airbrush that still works great but it tops out at 15-18 psi. am I missing out by not having a compressor that goes into higher psi? I was thinking about getting a paasche that goes up to 40 but the only things I can really find about higher psi is that it atomizes the paint better and you need it for textile paints
Raskolnikov38 fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Feb 5, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 13:24
|
|
|
The only thing I need more than 20psi for is badger stynylrez.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 15:16
|
|
|
I like doing vallejo model air stuff at 25 if I don't wanna thin it
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 15:42
|
|
|
Looking for some advice. This is my first go at scale modeling so I'm very new to some of these materials and techniques and not sure about their interactions. I've finished the painting and decal application of my TIE Fighter and have moved on to weathering. I've varnished the entire model with a couple coats of Pledge Floor Gloss before applying Tamiya Panel Line Accent color. I'm letting it dry for a minute or so before using mineral spirits and q-tips to wipe away the excess and tone it down. What's happening is as I'm wiping away the panel liner it's taking the paint with it down to the plastic.  I've also found a couple hairline cracks appear in the model as well.   I think what's happening with the cracks is the panel liner is seeping between some of the parts and coming into contact with bare plastic, making it brittle. The paint coming off entirely I'm not sure about. Is Future not a proper varnish to for this method? Any advice is appreciated. I was having fun motoring through the assembly and painting, using an airbrush for the first time. But now I haven't touched the thing it two weeks being too scared I'll mess it up further.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 20:43
|
|
|
I've had the issue of paint coming off if the model wasn't clean when I applied the primer. Oils (even from your hands) can make it fail to adhere properly and layers above it come off. Future is a commonly used product for varnishing, but varnish won't do much against physical force. Another thing is that undiluted mineral spirits are probably way too hot. I use synthetic turpentoid to make my washes, it's much milder and I've never had it damage paint.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 22:26
|
|
|
I have a car body that is painted in Tamiya lacquer. I have been painting parts of it with Tamiya acrylic and I messed up really bad. If I dunk the car in Tamiya acrylic thinner would it leave the lacquer intact?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 22:49
|
|
|
my feeling is that the mineral spirits are taking off the future and maybe attacking the primer layer? what paints did you use on the TIE. i also think the panel liner is supposed to go over an acrylic layer of paint but paint chemistry is beyond me
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 23:07
|
|
|
Yeah. Bandai plastic is known to crack when exposed to harsher mineral spirits, which also includes Tamiya's panel liners. How long are you letting the future cure? What type of primer/paint did you use?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2021 23:31
|
|
|
I had the exact same problem with the paint coming up only I was using Tamiya thinner instead of mineral spirits to clean panel liner over a future seal. I don’t have a solution.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 00:11
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:I had the exact same problem with the paint coming up only I was using Tamiya thinner instead of mineral spirits to clean panel liner over a future seal. I don’t have a solution. I’d expect the alcohol in Tamiya to eat the Future layer. Try lighter fluid?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 00:28
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:Yeah. Bandai plastic is known to crack when exposed to harsher mineral spirits, which also includes Tamiya's panel liners. I used Stynylrez primer, Vallejo Air paint, and let the Future dry for a few hours after the first instance of paint coming off. I waited a couple days before a second attempt and had the same issue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 00:28
|
|
|
BOGO LOAD posted:I used Stynylrez primer, Vallejo Air paint, and let the Future dry for a few hours after the first instance of paint coming off. I waited a couple days before a second attempt and had the same issue. Ok, so that kinda narrows it down a bit. The problem is either the mineral spirit you're using to wipe away the liner, or that the future wasnt strong enough to protect against the Tamiya + solvent + abrasive action combo. Since you're only letting the Tamiya liner dry for a minute before wiping it away, it could be weakening the layer of future to the point where it's more susceptible to mineral spirits and abrasive action. Vallejo is a fragile paint, so once that layer of future is gone it wont take much to damage or remove it. Try letting the Tamiya liner dry for a couple of hours. As long as you dont let it sit for more than a couple of days, mineral spirits should still be able to reactivate it for cleanup.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 00:37
|
|
|
I'll try that out, thank you. It's a real bummer because I was really enjoying the results otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 01:29
|
|
|
BOGO LOAD posted:I'll try that out, thank you. It's a real bummer because I was really enjoying the results otherwise. Good luck! If its any consolation, I'm sure we've all gone through this at some point. I had a kit ruined because of a bad reaction between future and some decal solvent.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 01:47
|
|
|
BOGO LOAD posted:I'll try that out, thank you. It's a real bummer because I was really enjoying the results otherwise. The second to last photo looks really great. It's flightline clean, but not clean clean.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 02:15
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:Good luck! If its any consolation, I'm sure we've all gone through this at some point. Truth. Seven+ years into this hobby and I've really developed consistently reliable processes in the last year or so. :/
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 16:00
|
|
|
Klingon Vor’cha update! I used the isopropyl alcohol wipe to get the paint off the engine. Looks really nice: Original:  Fixed:  I used toothpicks that I would carve into the right shape tool I needed and dipped them in the isopropyl. Made the paint lift and then the pigment would soak up into the toothpick. Highly recommend. If you have other ways of doing it I would love to hear and see if there is a better / easier way.  A used one:  Then I got to thinking about how I had been taping previously with just 18mm tape and cutting / scoring and crap. So I upped my tape game and ordered some 1, 2, 3 and 6mm tamiya tapes and went to town. Having small tapes with crisp edges is so good compared to what the heck I had been doing before.  I was having issues cutting out the top outlines until I used a pencil to contrast the edges. Worked out really well.  I used a Tamiya clear red so it has that darkness from the green underneath. I goofed a little on the front of the ship and went a little hard and it got wet but I had trouble filling cracks with the air brush. I’ll need to do some touch up work which you can see from some overbleed when the wet pain seeped. What do you do with those little areas that won’t get hit as much ( little trenches etc)? Tape them and hit them first and then do the rest?  Those clean lines though.   
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 17:40
|
|
|
Looks really nice!
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2021 19:20
|
|
|
Midjack posted:I’d expect the alcohol in Tamiya to eat the Future layer. Try lighter fluid? If you use a lot of lighter fluid, a cheaper option is Naptha (sometimes called Naphtha, VM Naptha, VMP Naphtha, etc..). It is the same thing as Zippo lighter fluid and a lot cheaper at the hardware store.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 05:01
|
|
|
This hobby is about 4:1 masking to painting. Possibly more, depending on the kit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 08:42
|
|
|
I enjoy reading the modelling news website but christ their colour scheme, my poor eyes 
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 15:42
|
|
|
mllaneza posted:This hobby is about 4:1 masking to painting. Possibly more, depending on the kit. For extra super delightful fun, try masking the movie Enterprise with multi-colored color shifting azteking!
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 15:49
|
|
|
Sultan Tarquin posted:I enjoy reading the modelling news website but christ their colour scheme, my poor eyes Yes! Oh my god. It's awful.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 16:30
|
|
|
MrUnderbridge posted:For extra super delightful fun, try masking the movie Enterprise with multi-colored color shifting azteking! It has crossed my mind to attempt.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 19:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:40 |
|
|
MrUnderbridge posted:For extra super delightful fun, try masking the movie Enterprise with multi-colored color shifting azteking! Buy the precut masks for that pain job.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2021 19:56
|
|