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Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
I got one of those Sovols and like it quite a bit; they don’t seat quite right in the milled slot that normally locates elegoo-brand tanks on my mars pro but the top+ bottom silicone slip covers and fill level indicator are both great. still no FEP problems aside from some small dents outside the build area.

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Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

eddiewalker posted:

PEI nearly doubles in price if you go from 300mm to 350mm. Similar jumps for metal beds and flex plates. For a heated chamber, going from 300 to 350 is 60% more enclosure volume and means way longer pre-heat times. Longer belts mean I have to run acceleration a fair bit lower. Even at 120mm/s and with a 0.6mm nozzle, anything that comes close to filling the print volume is a multi-day print. If you're printing lots of little things on one bed, every extra piece is another chance of something popping off and ruining the whole job.

Everyone says "ooooh I want one giant printer that can do everything," but small and fast is the pro move. How many dumb helmets are you actually printing?

It may come as a surprise to you but everyone has different use cases and preferences!


Yooper posted:

Had my first FEP failure on my Photon Mono. Oddly enough it's in a corner that the plate doesn't even contact so not sure why it failed, looks like a tiny little slit. Tension failure?

I'm debating between the Anycubic bolt on pack (2 for $37) or switching to a Sovol vat and film (2 for $50) that will allow me to reinstall my own FEP. I'm thinking the Sovol, but is there a compelling reason to stick with the Anycubic bolt on?

It may have been scratched from the factory and then eventually failed. Or you may have scratched it yourself and not noticed. When I was setting up my Photon 4K I dropped an Allen wrench and left the teeniest tiniest scratch that eventually failed.

As to the photon FEP, you could do either way, but if you get the pre-framed photon one it saves you from having to tension the FEP properly and cuts the time in half. Up to you. Personally I got both a new aluminum vat AND the photon FEP in case I am in a hurry / lazy.

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Feb 7, 2021

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
suddenly had a bad feeling and went and checked my tank and motherfucker of course there’s probably a pinhole leak i hadn’t noticed before, idk how else a small amount of resin could get onto the centre of the LED screen cover without starting at one of the edges like when resin drips down the outside of the tank. the amount seems negligible but the cured film under the FEP might be why i’ve had new and unexpected print issues on my last couple of prints. be nice if i could patch it with something

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Yooper posted:

Had my first FEP failure on my Photon Mono. Oddly enough it's in a corner that the plate doesn't even contact so not sure why it failed, looks like a tiny little slit. Tension failure?

I'm debating between the Anycubic bolt on pack (2 for $37) or switching to a Sovol vat and film (2 for $50) that will allow me to reinstall my own FEP. I'm thinking the Sovol, but is there a compelling reason to stick with the Anycubic bolt on?
I'm still on my original sheet somehow, but have you considered McMaster, it's like $17 per foot of film: https://www.mcmaster.com/85905K66/

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
any non-mcmaster sources for FEP at tool & die by-the-foot prices like that? they won’t ship to canada except to loading-dock-equipped business or educational addresses.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


mobby_6kl posted:

I'm still on my original sheet somehow, but have you considered McMaster, it's like $17 per foot of film: https://www.mcmaster.com/85905K66/

That's what I'm thinking with the Sovol kit. The stock Photon Mono FEP holder is a disposable consumable.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I've been running parts by the ml for members at the makerspace I volunteer at on our Form 3, and that clear resin is pretty amazing:





SUPER pleased with it, really looking forward to running more parts.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

drat that looks good!

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
Work on my resin tank heater continues apace; knocked out a tank-side clip for the temp probe that’ll provide feedback (pic at the bottom). i’m also designing my first home-printed enclosure for the thermostat + two rocker switches for the thermostat power and the heater power, which is stupidly overcomplicated by needing to work around that teeny-tiny build plate. Gonna have to chop it up into flat panels and assemble with fasteners if i have any hope of being able to print it.
the ceramic heating element i chose seems seriously oversized for the task + my chosen power source, so i need to add some ballast resistors to throttle the current; i’m gonna put them contacting the far exterior side of the tank opposite the heated side so the waste heat isn’t wasted, and i get multiple heat sources for more even heating. i figure i’ll be able to give the whole system a test-drive by tomorrow.


i’m getting ahead of myself here, but i think the way to go for a v2 tank heater is to avoid the messy external heater deal and locate the heaters inside the tank. not immersed in the resin volume, but instead small cartridge heaters pressed into reamed holes in the aluminium body of the resin tank. you don’t have much meat to work with there but i bet you could put a 1/8” heater vertically in the tank corners where there’s more metal, maybe even two 1/8 holes in a corner to buddy up the heater with a thermistor for accurate feedback.
ideally you’d start with a tank purpose-designed to accept cartridge heaters by integrating them into the design from the beginning. you know, add two sponson-ey bulges along either long side of the tank exterior with cartridge holes that run as long as you want.
i always think of stuff like this shortly after i lose access to industrial CNC mills on my lunch break, sigh...

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Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Feb 7, 2021

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Ambrose Burnside posted:

any non-mcmaster sources for FEP at tool & die by-the-foot prices like that? they won’t ship to canada except to loading-dock-equipped business or educational addresses.

They'll deliver it to me??. (Vancouver)

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive

ImplicitAssembler posted:

They'll deliver it to me??. (Vancouver)

well poo poo, I guess i'm misinformed. any qualifiers to that, like do you include a company name in the shipping details?
in any case, good to know, thanks.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Ambrose Burnside posted:

well poo poo, I guess i'm misinformed. any qualifiers to that, like do you include a company name in the shipping details?
in any case, good to know, thanks.

Yeah, but I think you can just make on up.
Note, they wont inform you of shipping charges first. You'll give them the CC details and they'll go "Ok, order confirmed' and just charge what they need.
It's usually reasonable ($20ish?)

smax
Nov 9, 2009

smax posted:

Anyone have experience with Dikale PETG? Picked up a pack of a lot of different colors and I’m scratching my head on this stuff.

A few disclaimers: I’m new to this, and it admittedly seems like a bit of a cheapish manufacturer. I think I just need to spend some time dialing this stuff in.

I had great luck printing with Hatchbox PETG, but this Dikale stuff is a goddamn mess. Stringy as hell, bad bed adhesion, previous layers curl up and stick to the nozzle generally screwing everything up. The box it came in references PLAeven though the spools are marked PETG, and the bed/hotend temperatures listed on the spools seem to be way closer to PLA than what I’d expect for PETG.

I’m going to dry this stuff out today and troubleshoot this stuff tomorrow, I’m just looking to see if anyone’s had similar experience with this filament. Any tips on how to troubleshoot this would be nice as well, I have a good idea what I need to do, but I’m firmly in the screw-with-things-and-see-what-works phase of learning here.

Alright, I'm giving up on this stuff. I can't get it to print at all after a full day of troubleshooting. Printed a couple temperature test towers, the first one with PETG range temps was ugly as all hell, I printed a second with PLA range temps and it got so warped and gunky the nozzle broke the whole things off at the base.

My opinion: avoid Dikale PETG. Sucks that I dropped over $100 on a variety pack of colors, but my time isn't worth the troubleshooting. If anyone in Houston wants to try this stuff out, shoot me a PM.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
First parts for my Voron V0 showed up today...... What.. have.. I done...

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Jesus, there's a bigger version of the phenom L called the XL and it's 5k more than the L.

I think the xxxl will just be the size of a normal kitchen fridge and cost as much as a new car.

Edit -forgot an x.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Feb 8, 2021

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

cakesmith handyman posted:

I'd rather have a conveyor belt printer than a huge one personally. (I've owned and used neither)

Question, I was trying to print some openLOCK wargaming terrain last night and the tiles have lots of tiny little Islands, meaning tons of tiny extrude/retract moves. Predictably when I woke up it had crushed/snapped the filament due to running over the same point dozens of times. How do people deal with this, other than making their own, better designs without the tiny Islands?

For reference it was a half dozen parts from this set: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2016230 if you look at the underside of most pieces it has little columns everywhere.

Turn off retraction and zap the spiderwebs with a heatgun?

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

I often overlook the simple answers, thanks.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Nerobro posted:

First parts for my Voron V0 showed up today...... What.. have.. I done...

apparently, ordered it with faster shipping than I did

mewse
May 2, 2006

Ambrose Burnside posted:

any non-mcmaster sources for FEP at tool & die by-the-foot prices like that? they won’t ship to canada except to loading-dock-equipped business or educational addresses.

I've ordered from McMaster in Canada by just putting in a fake business name and my home address. You pay through the nose in shipping but it should work.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

insta posted:

apparently, ordered it with faster shipping than I did

Just a spool of black ABS, to go with my blue, and the frame parts. Pictures later.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Feb 8, 2021

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
Gradually-declining surface finish quality and increasing layer separation defects in resin prints can be reliably pinned on a ratty FEP film, right? i'm trying to stretch my current one out (still using the factory-installed film lo these ~50 prints later) until the replacements i ordered get here, but even simple functional parts with rudimentary geometries are coming out gnarly now.

Photex
Apr 6, 2009




SpaceAceJase posted:

I got myself an Ender 3 v2 last week and it's been a very enjoyable experience for my first 3D printer.

I've started building some addons like the filament guide and the cable chain, but I'd also like to throw a spare Pi 3B+ in the drawer for Octoprint.

There's a lot of popular builds, but I'm not sure how to find ones that are compatible with the V2. I like the ones with the split Pi drawer on top and tools below, but it looks like they're mostly for the pro model which differs in dimensions.

Any recommendations specific to the v2 Ender 3?


as someone who has an Ender V2 for only a few months, go on amazon right now and buy an all metal extruder upgrade before it's too late.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Ambrose Burnside posted:

Gradually-declining surface finish quality and increasing layer separation defects in resin prints can be reliably pinned on a ratty FEP film, right? i'm trying to stretch my current one out (still using the factory-installed film lo these ~50 prints later) until the replacements i ordered get here, but even simple functional parts with rudimentary geometries are coming out gnarly now.

Could also be cross contaminating the resin, my first bottle got something unwelcome I'm there and I tore my hair out for weeks trying to figure it out.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Photex posted:

as someone who has an Ender V2 for only a few months, go on amazon right now and buy an all metal extruder upgrade before it's too late.

As someone with an Ender 5 who put an all metal hot end on and then took it off again because it was causing problems since I only print in PLA... no don’t.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Apparently there are things called ender extenders, that increase your z height. I did not know they existed so I am sharing that info since I'm pretty sure others don't know too.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Apparently there are things called ender extenders, that increase your z height. I did not know they existed so I am sharing that info since I'm pretty sure others don't know too.

They make a kit that extends the X and Y axis too. You can extend your ender in all directions!

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Doctor Zero posted:

As someone with an Ender 5 who put an all metal hot end on and then took it off again because it was causing problems since I only print in PLA... no don’t.

I think he's talking about the plastic extruder arm that often cracks and lowers filament tension. The $15 aluminum ones on amazon seem to be a drop in replacement.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Rexxed posted:

I think he's talking about the plastic extruder arm that often cracks and lowers filament tension. The $15 aluminum ones on amazon seem to be a drop in replacement.

That's what I went with and in hindsight I probably would have gone for the slightly more expensive one with the dual gear extruder

Photex
Apr 6, 2009




Rexxed posted:

I think he's talking about the plastic extruder arm that often cracks and lowers filament tension. The $15 aluminum ones on amazon seem to be a drop in replacement.

Yeah that's what I'm talking about, the arm cracks and the actual hole that the filament passes through wears out and can cause a jam

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Photex posted:

Yeah that's what I'm talking about, the arm cracks and the actual hole that the filament passes through wears out and can cause a jam

Yeah, I bought a cheap kit that came with the metal replacement, upgraded bed springs, and a Capricorn PTFE tube. Great decision, well worth it

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010

SpartanIvy posted:

They make a kit that extends the X and Y axis too. You can extend your ender in all directions!

I'm looking for a W axis extension. I've looked everywhere.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Photex posted:

as someone who has an Ender V2 for only a few months, go on amazon right now and buy an all metal extruder upgrade before it's too late.

well this sure explains the extrusion issue that had me looking up this thread

SpaceAceJase
Nov 8, 2008

and you
have proved
to be...

a real shitty poster,
and a real james
I've got my metal extruder upgrade, but haven't installed it.

And after seeing Javid's post above, I might do it sooner than later.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

cakesmith handyman posted:

I often overlook the simple answers, thanks.

Sometimes my laziness and dumbness are an advantage.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Photex posted:

Yeah that's what I'm talking about, the arm cracks and the actual hole that the filament passes through wears out and can cause a jam

Oh sorry. Yes, do that!!! All metal extruded is the way to go. Worst case you don’t get obvious cracks, but it still causes issues that drive you up the wall.

E: vvv Yeah I'm an idiot and got extruder mixed up with hot end

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Feb 9, 2021

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Doctor Zero posted:

As someone with an Ender 5 who put an all metal hot end on and then took it off again because it was causing problems since I only print in PLA... no don’t.

That's something different. The extruder assembly is plastic, and it seems.. that eventually, the spring loaded lever will crack the tension arm.

There's a reason why there are teflon lined hot ends versus all metal hot ends. :-) as you found out.

Edit: Beaten

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

mewse posted:

I've ordered from McMaster in Canada by just putting in a fake business name and my home address. You pay through the nose in shipping but it should work.

The shipping is not the lowest for sure, but it's awfully reasonable for having the box come to my doorstep in like 1-2 days.

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
wrt mcmaster to canada, someone said $20 USD flat elsewhere online, does that about check out?

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Yeah, it's been a little while since my last order, but it's always been about mid-20 USD in shipping from what I remember.

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ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Ambrose Burnside posted:

wrt mcmaster to canada, someone said $20 USD flat elsewhere online, does that about check out?

It's not flat, but usually in that range.

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