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Sirotan posted:It is a room under my front porch that is within my foundation Hang on now......so it's a bumped out room in your basement. Which means one wall of your basement has poured concrete porch slab above it. A part that is mostly NOT contained by a room? If so, that is more likely to be a heat loss issue. Without accurate details it's impossible to actually help you. Lots of people come in and want to know how to do X to Y but don't give enough information to tell if that's even the right thing to do or would have unintended consequences. You are deep, deep into "things that can have unintended consequences" here and I really suggest taking a step back and talking about what you actually have here and what the goal is if it's anything beyond making your basement warmer. Alternately if you just want to know how to apply some product to some space......great, you just let me know that and I will just not worry about it at all.
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Feb 9, 2021 22:46
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Two posts back I laid out pretty much what I want to do with this space. It is your basic standard cold room under a front porch and I am not too sure what you're visualizing with the "a part that is mostly NOT contained by a room?" bit. Tezer pretty much already answered the question that I had regarding spray foam costs.
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Feb 9, 2021 23:05
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Perfect then, best of luck. I suggest spending some time researching what it means to turn things designed to be an exterior space into an interior space actually means in regards to vapor barriers. Or not. It's really your call.
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Feb 9, 2021 23:11
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I've managed to get my garage way more organized with some cabinets and things, but I'm still looking for a space efficient way to get some tools and a ladder off the floor. Is there any particular ecosystem that's especially good? I was browsing the Gladiator "Gear Wall" deal, but I have one of those fairly heavy aluminum ladders that folds from an A-frame to "straight" and I question if the hooks/hangers can hold that? I'm also trying to figure out the best way to store bicycles. Since I only have about 16-18" on either side of the garage door, and 8 foot ceilings, I think the only choice I have for bikes is to hang them from the ceiling via some hooks. Post floor coating. I have since removed that wood rail that some tools were hanging from.  Cabinets installed  Second locker in the left corner, since it wouldn't fit on the back wall.  I'm thinking of something like this, somewhere on the right wall: 
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Feb 10, 2021 01:06
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I had a similar space spray foamed. It was an additional 700 CAD or so, but they were already doing another 2-3k of work on site. It functions as your vapour barrier if sprayed thick enough. But as everyone's noted the issue becomes covering it. There are products that can be sprayed/painted on but I think it's expensive?
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Feb 10, 2021 01:16
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Jenkl posted:I had a similar space spray foamed. It was an additional 700 CAD or so, but they were already doing another 2-3k of work on site. The spray-able/paint-able barriers are all ignition barriers, not thermal barriers. So they only meet code in specific circumstances (attics that are accessed only to maintain utility equipment, for example), and I don't think a basement room would qualify. I've been wrong before though.
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Feb 10, 2021 01:21
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Jenkl posted:I had a similar space spray foamed. It was an additional 700 CAD or so, but they were already doing another 2-3k of work on site. That is a pretty good price. I was thinking if I could get it done for under $1k USD then I'd seriously consider it. I have no plans to finish the entirety of the basement but this room is so tiny that if I needed to add sheetrock or something over the spray foam to bring it to code it would be a trivial amount of effort and money at that point. I haven't checked local codes yet to see what they require.
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Feb 10, 2021 01:43
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MetaJew posted:I've managed to get my garage way more organized with some cabinets and things, but I'm still looking for a space efficient way to get some tools and a ladder off the floor. I was just looking this up yesterday. Proslat apparently holds 75 pounds per square foot in PVC (one reviewer I read allegedly called them and they said it was supposed to be linear foot and not square foot, which makes more sense as you could hang one strip, though I'd still double check personally). If that's not enough you can go with aluminum and get 100 pound capacity. Don't forget that heavy objects will also probably span two or more mounts. If that's somehow not enough, storeWALL has standard and heavy duty versions that use wall strip hangers instead of screws, with 250 pound capacity at the surface (115 pounds 4" out) and 300 pound (165 pounds 4" out) respectively. Their Steadyrack bike mount might interest you in particular, as it appears that you can hang the bike vertically and then fold it to the side.
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Feb 10, 2021 10:42
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Another flooring question: my bathroom has a sloppy, amateur tile job (uneven spacing, not quite flush with each other, generally shoddy work). Would peel and stick vinyl tiles, directly on top of the existing tiles, work as a quick cover-up until we have the budget to remodel? The existing tiles are aligned to one of the walls, instead of the center of the room. If put in properly the peel and stick will be staggered over the existing tiles. I feel it won't hold up without a perfectly flat surface, plus moisture/water, but my partner is looking for a quick fix.
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Feb 10, 2021 15:06
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If the tile work is so lovely you are even considering slapping peel and stick vinyl over the top, then there is no way it's a smooth enough surface to not make the vinyl look even worse. e: luxury vinyl plank would probably work ok over the top of tile, they have tile look planks as well as wood finishes. Depending on size of bathroom a few boxes for $100 should be enough to cover it. It's not a ton of work to pull up a tile floor though, so I'd still probably do that before slapping even a temp floor down. Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 15:17
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You obviously have not been introduced to the tile floors in my house which use 2 different types of thinset with wire mesh between them.
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Feb 10, 2021 17:01
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Yeah I pulled up and replaced a couple tiles when I put a new toilet in (instead of cutting a notch in the tile for the flange, he just left an empty square of thinset and set the toilet in it), and it's got gobs of thinset and that wire mesh underneath. Not to mention the claw foot tub, which I'd probably have to disconnect and remove to get anything done underneath it. Total remodel would be to replace the tile, replace the clawfoot with a standard tub, replace the double sink with a single one, and swapping the tub and sink back to their original positions (ie, undoing all the changes the PO made).
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Feb 10, 2021 17:37
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I'm doubting LVP and Claw foot cast iron tub would end well. Change my mind?
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Feb 10, 2021 19:05
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The tub is acrylic 
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Feb 10, 2021 19:17
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I was just looking this up yesterday. Proslat apparently holds 75 pounds per square foot in PVC (one reviewer I read allegedly called them and they said it was supposed to be linear foot and not square foot, which makes more sense as you could hang one strip, though I'd still double check personally). If that's not enough you can go with aluminum and get 100 pound capacity. Don't forget that heavy objects will also probably span two or more mounts. Thanks, I'll check these out. Part of my dilemma with these sorts of organization tools is: do I buy hangers piecemeal or in some starter kit-- and also, do you go all out and , say, build out a 4 or 8ft tall slat wall, or just a narrow strip? I don't imagine I will reorganize or space them out differently once I have it in place, but I guess you never know.
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Feb 10, 2021 21:53
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How much of a concern is the added weight of a quartz counter over granite? Is it significant enough that counters frequently need to be retrofitted to make that change, or is it more "if you're putting down a loving acre of printed stone it might be an issue"
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Feb 11, 2021 01:08
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shirts and skins posted:How much of a concern is the added weight of a quartz counter over granite? Is it significant enough that counters frequently need to be retrofitted to make that change, or is it more "if you're putting down a loving acre of printed stone it might be an issue" google says "Countertops of comparable size of granite and quartz will weigh about the same, give or take a few pounds." They have comparable density so this checks, unless the thickness varies.
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Feb 11, 2021 01:13
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mutata posted:You obviously have not been introduced to the tile floors in my house which use 2 different types of thinset with wire mesh between them. Where in your house is this? That doesn't sound like 2 types of thinset, it sounds like how you'd do a screed coat. Thin-ish layer of cement and sand with chicken wire imbedded to flatten out (or pitch if it's a shower drain) a floor, and then you can use thinset on top of that. The chicken wire gives the screed coat a structure to bond to. If I had to guess there's either poly or tar paper under the screed coat too. That's a perfectly legit older style of flashing a floor before floor levelers came out, and is still done today. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 15:56
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That sound like it, yeah. Good to know what it is. It's on the entire main floor of my house and both bathrooms and it's a real bitch to remove.
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Feb 12, 2021 01:47
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So, we just found some asbestos insulating air ducts up in the basement ceiling and some ducts in the walls. It's completely out of sight out of mind right now, but I wanna make sure that it doesn't turn into a problem. What are some warning signs to tell if it's going to be a big deal?
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Feb 13, 2021 19:02
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Cpt_Obvious posted:So, we just found some asbestos insulating air ducts up in the basement ceiling and some ducts in the walls. It's completely out of sight out of mind right now, but I wanna make sure that it doesn't turn into a problem. What are some warning signs to tell if it's going to be a big deal? Is it shedding/fluffy/falling apart or in an area where it's likely to get touched, poked, have something fall on it? Of no to all, just stay the hell away.
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Feb 13, 2021 20:16
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So our builder was a little perplexed at what this is and I haven’t heard back yet on what his plumber told him. Any idea why this is sticking out? It’s part of our ensuite walk in shower.
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Feb 14, 2021 00:18
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Looks like a stub out for a bath spout, which I assume you don’t have. What does your shower hardware look like?
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Feb 14, 2021 00:20
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Vintersorg posted:So our builder was a little perplexed at what this is and I haven’t heard back yet on what his plumber told him. Any idea why this is sticking out? It’s part of our ensuite walk in shower. That's ambitious for a shower enema/douche but you do you.
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Feb 14, 2021 00:30
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Looks like a stub out for a bath spout, which I assume you don’t have. What does your shower hardware look like? Haven't quite picked it out yet but there shouldn't be a bath spout since it's a stand up shower only. Guess they'll need to take it out. We're doing a rain spout and also one attached to the wall. We'll have some splitter thing he chose us to pick out from Delta.
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Feb 14, 2021 00:49
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Vintersorg posted:So our builder was a little perplexed at what this is and I haven’t heard back yet on what his plumber told him. Any idea why this is sticking out? It’s part of our ensuite walk in shower. That looks like black pipe to me which is usually used for gas. Is your plumber a Nazi by chance?
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Feb 14, 2021 00:54
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Vintersorg posted:Haven't quite picked it out yet but there shouldn't be a bath spout since it's a stand up shower only. Guess they'll need to take it out. My guess would be hand shower or wall jet. If that is the shower pan visible, looks low for a wall jet or a faucet. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Feb 14, 2021 |
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Feb 14, 2021 03:11
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Is no one else going to comment that that stub appears to be coming out of drywall?
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Feb 14, 2021 14:33
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NomNomNom posted:Is no one else going to comment that that stub appears to be coming out of drywall?
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Feb 14, 2021 15:05
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Vintersorg posted:So our builder was a little perplexed at what this is and I haven’t heard back yet on what his plumber told him. Any idea why this is sticking out? It’s part of our ensuite walk in shower. Can't you just trace the pipe to its source by looking under the floor in the basement or something?
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Feb 14, 2021 15:12
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Yeah good point why is your shower dry walled? That’s a bigger issue than mysterious bath spout. Even if they’re doing a wall panel shower instead of tile they should have at least used one of the mold resistant varieties. The spout looks like one of these but with a capped stub out so they can test for leaks. 
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Feb 14, 2021 16:26
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home ownership is just buying a series of increasingly specific tools your friends will one day ask to borrow and probably never return. that said, i now know how to grout a shower floor. so let me know if you need a grout float or a grouting sponge, i guess.
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Feb 14, 2021 16:30
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NomNomNom posted:Is no one else going to comment that that stub appears to be coming out of drywall? It's the first thing I noticed but really didn't want to get into the "but my contractor is using redguard/kerdi/whatever and it doesn't NEED anything else" back and forth.
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Feb 14, 2021 17:43
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Deviant posted:home ownership is just buying a series of increasingly specific tools your friends will one day ask to borrow and probably never return. On the bright side those two are probably the cheapest of the highly specific tools you could possibly buy.
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Feb 14, 2021 18:30
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Once again realized this is a Home Zone question, not a fix it fast thing: Looking for opinions on how to finish a ceiling in a portion of a room of our house. We knocked down the popcorn ceilings when we moved in. The ceiling in this portion of the room was extra sealed or super durable or something, and it wouldn't just fall apart with some water like they normally do. As a result it is gouged up and uneven beyond my ability to mud and sand (at least in a reasonable timeframe). Also it's in kind of a unique spot that seems worth doing something different than the rest of the house. We're planning to sell as soon as we're done remodeling in a few years, so it just has to not detract from the space. It is above the living/family room portion of a long, narrow room that is the kitchen, dining room, and living/family room.   My first thought was some kind of tongue and groove ceiling, but I'm not sure how to address this point where the flat and angle ceilings come together: 
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Feb 14, 2021 21:58
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Because of how the angles all come together I think you're going to end up with an awkward look if you put anything with additional thickness over the existing drywall. You might be stuck just getting someone who can do a good job skimcoating it.
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Feb 14, 2021 22:03
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What should they be using then? I am going to contact them if it's a big no-no. I found this video saying the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJvNbRgeE1g Comments say its ok if you waterproof but even then he says NO. So what should I tell him? E: Cement backer board? Vintersorg fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Feb 14, 2021 |
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Feb 14, 2021 22:56
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Vintersorg posted:What should they be using then? I am going to contact them if it's a big no-no. I found this video saying the same: There is a very small number of possible products that 'work' with drywall inside of a tiled shower enclosure, and the vast majority do not. Really, the only one I can think of is kerdi membrane (not kerdi board) which can go over drywall in a shower. Would I do it? No, but technically it's allowed by the manufacturer. I wouldn't tell the contractor that they've done something wrong yet. As a first step, ask them how the shower is being waterproofed. Once you understand the process and materials being used, look them up and see if they are compatible with the work completed so far. If they're about to put the tile on and you don't have time to slow-walk it, then just straight up ask "How is the shower being waterproofed? I thought drywall couldn't go in a shower enclosure?" and see where the conversation goes. No matter what, you'll need to do your own research to ensure that the process/materials your contractor describes matches the manufacturer's instructions for those materials.
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Feb 14, 2021 23:18
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Too late cause I already emailed him.  But I didnt say YOURE WRONG but I asked him what he is using there. I am seeing more and more disaster stories of it. Cement Backer Board is only $20/sheet and I'll gladly pay for it if needed so this thing doesnt fall off the walls. People are even saying dont use green drywall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuroF7V3Hco
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Feb 14, 2021 23:33
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So what's the deal with LVT/P on stairs? The Lifeproof warranty for example says it's void on stairs, and it looks like its a 3rd party company that makes the trim? Is it a bad idea? The alternatives seem odd.
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Feb 14, 2021 23:37
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