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OEM stuff can't use catch cans or dump blowby gas/oil anywhere so it gets sucked back into the intake to be burned off. Combine that with rich fuel mixture, short trips not letting the car get into closed loop (rich fuel again), poor combustion from worn plugs, and possibly not getting it to higher RPM and temps to burn that poo poo off may all contribute. There's probably other stuff too but those are the big ones I can think of off the cuff. No idea how big of a difference the fuel with more detergents fair vs cheaper or if that's all snake oil BS.
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Feb 3, 2021 01:30
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That's bananas. Now I'm curious but terrified to see the tops of my pistons, which only ever see super short trips 😬 e: sorry if my previous post came off lovely; I didn't mean it that way. Was just wondering Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 02:33
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Excuse the Dutch angles and phone screenshot of the vinyl places Instagram story but I'm pretty excited.  I'll admit not exactly terribly original, but man I'm really digging the look. Can't wait to see it in person tomorrow.
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Feb 4, 2021 06:02
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Yesterday, found water all over the passenger floorboard. Today, took a brake cable off a junk bike and made a sunroof drain cleaner. Appears to have worked!
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Feb 4, 2021 06:36
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Bajaha posted:Excuse the Dutch angles and phone screenshot of the vinyl places Instagram story but I'm pretty excited. Wtf that's the coolest poo poo ever. I'd give that a second look all day.
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Feb 4, 2021 06:42
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Bajaha posted:Excuse the Dutch angles and phone screenshot of the vinyl places Instagram story but I'm pretty excited. Martini livery: good. 
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Feb 4, 2021 19:45
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Bajaha posted:Excuse the Dutch angles and phone screenshot of the vinyl places Instagram story but I'm pretty excited. Holy poo poo, there's going to be two of us in AI?!  This is amazing. Congrats! Edit: Screw being original, Martini livery owns and you made the best choice. Hell, it was a factory option in Europe for a year or two recently. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Feb 4, 2021 |
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Feb 4, 2021 22:53
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McTinkerson posted:Holy poo poo, there's going to be two of us in AI?! TWO OF US! TWO OF US! Got it back today and it's so dreamy    
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Feb 5, 2021 00:46
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That is awesome. The world would be a better place if more cars had vinyl stripes/decals on them!
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Feb 5, 2021 01:14
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Well that's awesome.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:14
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Yea that's cool, so it was an option, not aftermarket?
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Feb 5, 2021 04:00
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Whoa. Tires with sidewall 
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Feb 5, 2021 06:33
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea that's cool, so it was an option, not aftermarket? Mine was aftermarket but hearing that it was an option is cool as heck, I didn't know that. And yes, in the land of ice and snow with potted roads winter tires with sidewall are a good idea. Still can't stop looking at it when it's parked.
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Feb 5, 2021 16:05
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Sold it (pending payment). I got a call within 5 minutes of listing it which makes me think I didn't ask for enough money but that's way better than it sitting around taking up garage space. So long Mazda 3 you will be missed (and more than likely I'll never own another manual car) 
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Feb 6, 2021 10:47
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finally got around to replacing the fuel pump on my truck it's been sitting for a few months because the brake light switch was stuck on, so i replaced that like a month ago. starting it after that repair, the fuel pump started pissing all over the ground so i ordered the pump, and that took like 2 weeks to get here (rockauto is the worst for this), so now i finally have the pump and a dry weekend to swap it out  one shiny part in a sea of gunk took almost no time at all, idk why i was worried about it. prob could have done it during the week, in retrospect oh well, now i can do truck stuff again
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Feb 7, 2021 02:45
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new thicker front and rear sway bars, new sway bar bushings, front sway bar reinforcement plate, new sway bar end links, new inner and outer front tie rods, new steering rack bushing and new steering rack boots for my sw20 still need to do the control arm bushings on all 4 corners but i simply don't possess the tools nor strength to do them myself so off to the shop for that up next: make these mother loving t-tops stop leaking in the rain
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Feb 7, 2021 03:01
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Panty Saluter posted:Jesus, those before pics are insane. How does a modern EFI engine get coked up that badly? lovely gas? worn out plugs? never cleaning the air filter? all of the above? I'm still kinda stumped as well. That car was my daily for well over a decade and was on the highway all the time and never got anything less than premium fuel. I've always been in the habit of pulling the spark plugs once a year for cleaning and inspection and never really found much in the way of oil deposits. Back when I installed the catch can for the first time, I replaced all of the old hoses as the original molded stuff had been previously replaced with cheap parts store poo poo. They may have been misrouted as well, but I can't remember. At the same time, I also removed the cap plug from the vent fitting on the left valve cover and installed a small breather element in its place. Up until teardown I was collecting an average of about a shotglass worth of oil in the separator can between oil changes, I only assumed the rest of it was disappearing because of the external seal leaks.  IOwnCalculus posted:See, this is the problem when you're working with an actual LS1. Better versions of every part on it exist now. You could just throw a cam at it, but the 241 heads flow like crap compared to 243/799s. You at least started with the later LS6 intake but even those have been easily surpassed by the aftermarket. My biggest  with that stock intake is the 75mm butterfly inlet within the 100mm intake duct. Along with the lack of a PCV valve or breather vent, this poor thing was forced to inhale its own poo poo AND breathe through a straw. Not any more.  Colostomy Bag posted:Wow, nice work. No AC to contend with? Not for a few years now. It worked great for a while but I chose to get rid of it once the compressor bearing burned out and a few months later I found the hard line going into the condenser had broken which ended up saving me the cost and hassle of having the system evacuated before I tore it out and scrapped it. shy boy from chess club posted:Omg yes. I was messing with the tune on a wrx and all the sudden it hit a brick wall at like 3k, undrivable. Went back and looked and the MAF map stopped at 3k but I was able to repopulate it by looking at the original tune, saved the day. Do it first I've got several backups of the stock tune file that I've pulled randomly, as well as numerous copies of the files as I've been making changes. I understand it's the same concept like in those lengthy RPG games: Save early, and save often.  kastein posted:drat, that's quite the stack of upgrades. Even with the relatively basic Gen-3 platform that I'm learning with, it was real easy to get lost in a seemingly endless arrangement of parameters and settings. I downloaded a few of HPTuners repository tunes that I used to compare and contrast setting changes which have helped me learn more about which areas to begin focusing on. Deatschwerks is awesome enough to have all of their injector parameter data available for download as excel docs for easy copy/paste transfer. The only data I could find for the Lingenfelter MAF was in pdf format and the numbers were in grams-per-second and the HPTuners table is in pounds-per-inch. I like that they include a conversion calculator, but I still ended up writing it all out by hand and then back into the table cell by cell, double and triple checking it along the way to ensure myself the best I could that I'm not screwing any of it up. Tedious? You bet.  Stock MAF curve VS Updated curve   The first and most obvious difference that stood out in the scanner logs were the fuel trims going from scary lean to a much safer pig rich:  
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Feb 7, 2021 07:32
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I got in my 2005 Saab 9-3 to drive back from the ski hill yesterday, started it, I heard the cabin fan spin up for a second, then stop. Restarting the car did nothing, fan controls weren't responsive. I checked the voltage across the cabin fan fuse with the fan set to high: 0V So today, I dug in and pulled the fan out. Thankfully, getting to it in the 9-3 isn't terrible. Rather than pulling the whole dash, the fan is reachable by just removing the glove box.  After some passenger foot well yoga and 7 screws removed, I got the fan out. In retrospect, I could have done this test in place, but I got ahead of myself. Applied 12V @ 2A and the fan ran just fine. https://i.imgur.com/8iYaPpl.mp4 However, the blower motor resistor looks to have gotten a little spicy.  I've got a new one on the way (also a new blower, despite the working condition of this one. It has had a squeak at certain speeds before now and I figure while I'm in there...).
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Feb 8, 2021 01:28
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 I absolutely love the way a sheet of plywood fits in the bed. This beast cranked over so slowly Sunday morning I thought the battery was dead, but it was just cold oil and battery I guess. I was shocked when it started to catch and fired up. Also I learned the fuel gage does not work, after a few weeks near full, plus fuel I lost working on the carb and with a bad needle, I went to get gas and put 7 gallons in it. Then I parked on my steep driveway and lost some through a vent. Gotta work on that.
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Feb 8, 2021 17:22
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A vent? Shouldn't the fuel system be closed (in theory)?
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Feb 8, 2021 17:51
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Outrail posted:A vent? Shouldn't the fuel system be closed (in theory)? Nah, even old trucks like this had some basic venting to try and avoid the tank building up too much pressure.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:Nah, even old trucks like this had some basic venting to try and avoid the tank building up too much pressure. Yeah that. There are three vent lines on the tank that go to a reserviour, that itself goes to a charcoal vapor canister, and from there to a fitting on the motor to get drawn in and burned. It's a long skinny tank, so parking at a front to back angle totally submerges the front two vents and the return line from the reserviour. It's fine if the hoses are tight, since the reserviour is mounted high in the fender. I suspect there's a leak in one of them at the first junction. They're just spring clips on fresh rubber, the rubber to steel isn't that tight, rubber to vinyl hose was pretty solid though. I can toss a worm drive on it and likely solve my issue. It was also just a drip rather than a stream. An absolute pain in the rear end to fix though.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:37
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nadmonk posted:I got in my 2005 Saab 9-3 to drive back from the ski hill yesterday, started it, I heard the cabin fan spin up for a second, then stop. Restarting the car did nothing, fan controls weren't responsive. Kia went with PWM control of the blower fan, which eliminated burning out the resistor(s), but they still managed to under-spec the connector, so it melts nicely if you run the thing wide open all the time. Which of course you do in Texas in summertime. Or Chicago in winter, one assumes.     Didn't really hurt the actual FET module, at least:   I cheated, fixing it:   Lasted 3 years so far.
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Feb 9, 2021 00:32
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Had the Miata retuned today since the original tune was poo poo. Cliffnotes are that the car weighs about 2180lb without me in it; in effort to not deal with ballast I claimed 2350lb with me in it for a max average wheel horsepower of 213. I'm going to run on the classing dyno on Friday at an event, so the new tune was somewhat conservative power-wise given the MCE Dynojet is known as 'a random number generator'. My tuner will also be there and we can push it to the compliance dyno limit. Anyway, thinner lines are before and thicker are after. There are a number of spots that I picked up as much as 50whp or 50wtq. It is a 1.8 Miata with a BW EFR6258. On E85 and an unrestricted tune it should make north of 400whp based on similar builds, however good luck keeping a transmission in the car and lol non-time attack classing.  Torque left / HP right Red before / Green after 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Feb 9, 2021 |
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Feb 9, 2021 02:19
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Darchangel posted:Kia went with PWM control of the blower fan, which eliminated burning out the resistor(s), but they still managed to under-spec the connector, so it melts nicely if you run the thing wide open all the time. Which of course you do in Texas in summertime. Or Chicago in winter, one assumes. Mmmm toasty. I have a little clean up of the harness to do, but thankfully it isn't that bad. Which is good, because the two wire power harness, all of six or so inches long, is $105 and backordered everywhere.
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Feb 9, 2021 02:23
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BlackMK4 posted:Had the Miata retuned today since the original tune was poo poo. Cliffnotes are that the car weighs about 2180lb without me in it; in effort to not deal with ballast I claimed 2350lb with me in it for a max average wheel horsepower of 213. That's a lot of area under the torque curve... you've got to feel that. Makes me miss mine all over again. My first one was quick enough with a 104mph 1/4 mile trap speed... but the second one with the built motor and big turbo... just monstrous pulling.
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Feb 9, 2021 13:29
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EVERYWHERE 
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Raluek posted:finally got around to replacing the fuel pump on my truck If it was pissing on the ground, it may have been pissing into the crankcase too. Check and smell your oil, if it's gassy change it.
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Feb 9, 2021 15:48
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meatpimp posted:That's a lot of area under the torque curve... you've got to feel that. Makes me miss mine all over again. My first one was quick enough with a 104mph 1/4 mile trap speed... but the second one with the built motor and big turbo... just monstrous pulling. For real, I can't believe how freight train like these things feel. Pretty much a 180 from the S2000.
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Feb 9, 2021 16:53
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BlackMK4 posted:Had the Miata retuned today since the original tune was poo poo. Cliffnotes are that the car weighs about 2180lb without me in it; in effort to not deal with ballast I claimed 2350lb with me in it for a max average wheel horsepower of 213. Wow, that's awesome. Can't remember, does yours have a 6 speed already? Apparently they're a good bit stronger but the ratios aren't really that good (like a 5 speed but the same overall ratios IIRC) so most dudes go with a super tall rear end to compensate.
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Feb 10, 2021 11:50
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Suburban Dad posted:Wow, that's awesome. Can't remember, does yours have a 6 speed already? Apparently they're a good bit stronger but the ratios aren't really that good (like a 5 speed but the same overall ratios IIRC) so most dudes go with a super tall rear end to compensate. NC2 Miata 6-speed is the strongest one. Even then, I would cryo-treat the gear set and run a PWM clutch delay valve and boost by gear to prevent rapid disassembly. Edit: The NC1 6 speed is made by Aisin, is weak and also still used in the FRS and BRZ.
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Feb 10, 2021 16:25
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Yeah, the car was originally a Mazdaspeed and I think the transmission that is in it right now is the original one. I also have a spare 6spd but I'm not really sure if it is a NB1 or an NB2, so I should probably go look at that. The diff in it is a 3.9, I think. I basically only used 3, 4, 5 before and tried to stick to 4/5. I think the extra power will let me use just 4/5 and I will probably end up seeing 6th now since I'd been on the limiter of 5th before going into some corners locally.
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Feb 10, 2021 17:26
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So is that torque hump the wastegate opening to keep from grenading things?
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Feb 10, 2021 17:31
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The torque hump is boost coming on and making the right amount of torque to equal about 210whp then tapering with RPM to maintain 210whp. It could make the power earlier but I asked for everything to be extremely conservative tune wise and I'm not willing to deal with carting 20 gallons of E85 to events with me. I've heard that in the 260-280 wheel torque area is where 4th gear starts getting iffy on the 6spd so, yeah, you're right, that was also another consideration. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 17:40
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Can confirm, 2nd gear is easy to rip out with a lot of power (and this was on the lower-powered one):
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Feb 10, 2021 18:17
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Good god. What were you doing when it broke?
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Feb 10, 2021 18:18
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BlackMK4 posted:Good god. What were you doing when it broke? I don't honestly remember. When I broke the differential, it was a debilitating failure and I had to have it towed. When I ripped out second gear... I know it happened, but forget the failure mode.
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Feb 10, 2021 18:32
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Was the diff a launch and was it the housing or the diff itself? This still has a stock torsen and original diff carrier with the notch in it. I'm not real familiar with the limits there 
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Feb 10, 2021 18:52
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BlackMK4 posted:Was the diff a launch and was it the housing or the diff itself? This still has a stock torsen and original diff carrier with the notch in it. I'm not real familiar with the limits there The diff was the pinion bearing in the stock viscous lsd differential (1992). It let go during a normal traffic light start, but it had seen a lot of hard stops previously. The torsen seems to hold power pretty well, until you load it up too much and twist it off the mounts (this was the powerful one):
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Feb 10, 2021 18:55
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Well, that is exciting.
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Feb 10, 2021 19:16
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New struts + related consumables, sway bar links, rear pads and rotors in the Antarctic blue super sports wagon with the C.B. and optional rally fun pack. New lift and battery brap brap were used to much success.  Feast your eyes upon the damage wrought by 9 harsh South Carolina winters, lo there is some light surface corrosion  I did have one rotor hold down screw just immediately strip, but the cobalt bits I got for xmas 2019 made quick work of it, and I just screwed it out the back of the hub.  And I found a seller on eBay where I bought an entire set of OEM lug nuts cheaper than anyone else would sell me four of them, and got rid of the godawful wheel locks. 
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Feb 10, 2021 19:54
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