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Allegedly you can get something closer with a 50:50 mix of matte medium and air brush flow improver
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Feb 9, 2021 17:07
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Feeple posted:This. As in so many other things in life, there's really no substitution for practice and/or experience. If you can't bear the thought of loving up even one of your precious bois and then strip the model, paper and cardboard are cheap and plentiful, and can at least let you experience the basics. Dollar store packs of toy soldiers, cars and dinosaurs.
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Feb 9, 2021 22:18
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Eej posted:Allegedly you can get something closer with a 50:50 mix of matte medium and air brush flow improver Acrylic ink, airbrush flow improver and glazing medium in varying ratios depending on your ink color worked really well for me. Start with one drop ink, two drops airbrush flow, one drop glazing medium and see how it behaves.
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Feb 9, 2021 22:22
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I figured it was something that involved glaze medium, but I wouldn't have guessed airbrush flow improver, probably because I don't have an airbrush.
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Feb 9, 2021 23:00
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I’ve not used contrast, but I like Goobertown’s substitute recipe. Something like 1:1 ink to matte medium + a few drops of flow improver (I may have the ratio off). I use it more for glazing and stippling for texture than as a Contrast TM paint. Thinning it with water or medium can result in some nice subtle effects. Got a small bottle of burnt umber as a wyldewood sub, but it’s easy to just mix it on a palette as needed. https://youtu.be/VU0rc0EOOys
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Feb 9, 2021 23:19
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The Nolzurs line of minis are good for practice too. $5 gets you two or three fairly detailed minis. Plastic army men have kind of muddy details for stuff like washes and whatnot.
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Feb 10, 2021 01:28
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Anyone have any tips for stripping primer off of plastic? I've got a small (cheap and crappy) ultrasonic cleaner, and while it does a pretty ok job stripping the actual paint it's leaving big patches of primer that I'm worried will show up if I re-prime, or will flake off later and ruin a paintjob. Is this just a "get a better ultrasonic cleaner" situation?
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Feb 10, 2021 01:44
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PoptartsNinja posted:Anyone have any tips for stripping primer off of plastic? I've got a small (cheap and crappy) ultrasonic cleaner, and while it does a pretty ok job stripping the actual paint it's leaving big patches of primer that I'm worried will show up if I re-prime, or will flake off later and ruin a paintjob. It depends on the primer. Soaking in LA Totally Awesome, Simple Green, Purple Power, or my favorite Dawn Power Cleanser for multiple hours is your best bet. Adding a bit of the Ultrasonics to it couldn't hurt. Goobertown Hobbies did a side by side comparison of various optoins. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqBjt1wKZfc
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Feb 10, 2021 02:01
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Quick mini-review. Right off the bat, this is an AK Interactive product. Like many overzealous euro-hobby companies, they seem to have permanent foot/product-in-mouth disease. While this book is completely inoffensive, some may want to shy away from companies that have made dumbass business moves or released some tasteless products from time to time. Moving on... I've been a big fan of all of AK Interactives FAQ books, which up to now have dealt with painting techniques for Armor and Air. Now they have a new book out, FAQ - Figure Painting Techniques, by Kiril Kanaev. This mainly deals with the painting of busts and larger 1/35 and 1/16 scale figs, but the techniques are still of use to mini painters. This new book is a huge tome of amazing tips and techniques for figure painting. I hadn't heard of Kiril Kanaev before this, but evidently by the work on display he's a master. Everything from the products to use, to the different styles and techniques to pull off amazing paint-jobs. Definitely worth a buy for those with deep pockets. https://ak-interactive.com/product/figures-f-a-q-figure-painting-techniques-the-complete-guide-for-figure-scale-modelers/         
Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 02:17
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PoptartsNinja posted:Anyone have any tips for stripping primer off of plastic? I've got a small (cheap and crappy) ultrasonic cleaner, and while it does a pretty ok job stripping the actual paint it's leaving big patches of primer that I'm worried will show up if I re-prime, or will flake off later and ruin a paintjob. Just use simple green it's great. Ultrasonic cleaner is also really useful but the big thing is to just wish in simple green for a couple days. I have a cheap rear end ultrasonic but a better one does seem appealing. Cheap one seems to work done for everything I do with it (stripping models, cleaning airbrush)
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Feb 10, 2021 02:35
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They sat in simple green for a week, then got to swim in LA's totally awesome in between ultrasonic cleaner sessions. I've been at it for a week and a half, and this is the result: I use army painter spray because it works over Reaper Bones and it's tough. I guess I just never realized how tough.
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Feb 10, 2021 02:56
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Not sure how it would work with the plastic, but engine degreaser is pretty hardcore from what I've heard too
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Feb 10, 2021 03:03
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I've never had any luck getting a good clean even with soaking a mini in simple green for a week. I stripped my metal Bjorn with carby cleaner and that was ez.
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Feb 10, 2021 03:06
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I hadn't heard of Kiril Kanaev before this, but evidently by the work on display he's a master. Everything from the products to use, to the different styles and techniques to pull off amazing paint-jobs. Definitely worth a buy for those with deep pockets. He's definitely on the short list of contenders for "world's best miniature painter" imo. He mainly does large scale stuff these days but his coolminiornot name is Yellow one if you want to check out his older small scale stuff. The style is a bit dated but it's still really impressive.
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Feb 10, 2021 03:09
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The Moon Monster posted:He's definitely on the short list of contenders for "world's best miniature painter" imo. He mainly does large scale stuff these days but his coolminiornot name is Yellow one if you want to check out his older small scale stuff. The style is a bit dated but it's still really impressive. Interesting. I wonder if he refined his technique once he move to larger subjects. I mean, the knight "Le Hire" on the book cover is NMM. Even when I read that and had my nose 2 inches from the image, I still couldn't really tell it wasn't actually a true metallic paint, it's just an amazing job.
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Feb 10, 2021 03:22
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Are all the techniques using oil paints?
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Feb 10, 2021 03:27
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Are all the techniques using oil paints? He uses just about every type of paint there is, it's quite comprehensive. Here's some pics of the index, so you can see what's on offer:  
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Feb 10, 2021 03:38
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JBP posted:I've never had any luck getting a good clean even with soaking a mini in simple green for a week. I wonder if simple green in Australia is a different mix because it is hot garbage and has always been hot garbage here. It does work but requires vigorous scrubbing with very stiff bristles and is still uneven.
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Feb 10, 2021 03:47
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The Moon Monster posted:He's definitely on the short list of contenders for "world's best miniature painter" imo. He mainly does large scale stuff these days but his coolminiornot name is Yellow one if you want to check out his older small scale stuff. The style is a bit dated but it's still really impressive. You have a valid opinion there, his stuff is truly astonishing. Does anyone know what the dwarf models in this diorama are? http://www.coolminiornot.com/247391?browseid=11398945 http://www.coolminiornot.com/247461?browseid=11398945
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Feb 10, 2021 03:59
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:You have a valid opinion there, his stuff is truly astonishing. Does anyone know what the dwarf models in this diorama are? Looks like the "Dwarf King on War Bear", and various other dwarves, from Scibor Miniatures. https://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?art=851 https://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?group=139
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Feb 10, 2021 04:06
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Looks like the "Dwarf King on War Bear", and various other dwarves, from Scibor Miniatures. Thank you for letting me know, but did you ever see minis and think "I am not worthy of painting that"? Because man do I not have the skill to do any of their models justice
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Feb 10, 2021 04:18
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Eediot Jedi posted:I wonder if simple green in Australia is a different mix because it is hot garbage and has always been hot garbage here. It has to be different, it's terrible. Works ok on my tiles though.
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Feb 10, 2021 04:32
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PoptartsNinja posted:They sat in simple green for a week, then got to swim in LA's totally awesome in between ultrasonic cleaner sessions. I've been at it for a week and a half, and this is the result: I've had similar experiences with Army Painter skeleton bone. It seems to kinda turn in to a very sticky goop that sticks to models very hard if you try to strip it with the wrong stuff.
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Feb 10, 2021 07:08
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PoptartsNinja posted:Anyone have any tips for stripping primer off of plastic? I've got a small (cheap and crappy) ultrasonic cleaner, and while it does a pretty ok job stripping the actual paint it's leaving big patches of primer that I'm worried will show up if I re-prime, or will flake off later and ruin a paintjob. My ultrasonic cleaner was cheap as hell, but I put minis in it and fill it with methylated spirits and it strips them back to bare plastic/metal after running them through two 8-minute cycles (most were done after one cycle tbh) and lightly touching them with a toothbrush. The most stubborn "What the gently caress did you prime this with" figures I've had off ebay took a third cycle. Its safe on hard plastic (though sometimes does break superglue bonds, which isnt a big deal to me) and fairly safe to use*. Only words of caution are: I havent tried it on reaper bones style softer plastics, so while I think it'd be fine I cant personally swear to it. It is flammable and running the ultrasonic cleaner does warm it up. I found after a while (like 4-5 eight minute cycles, I was stripping a BUNCH of figures, and couldnt fit many in at a time because its a small cleaner) it had raised to about body temperature, so I let it sit and cool down before running it again. *Probably shouldnt immerse your hands in it tbh, so I'm going to say wear rubber gloves or at least remember to use the little tray thing for removing miniatures so you dont have to go rooting around the bottom of the cleaner with your fingers. Worst its ever done to me is a bit of dry skin, but better safe than sorry, especially if you have sensitive skin or are a hand model or something. SiKboy fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 10:16
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PoptartsNinja posted:Anyone have any tips for stripping primer off of plastic? I've got a small (cheap and crappy) ultrasonic cleaner, and while it does a pretty ok job stripping the actual paint it's leaving big patches of primer that I'm worried will show up if I re-prime, or will flake off later and ruin a paintjob. I use break fluid. Cheap, available at any gas station, and I've never had a mini not completely stripped, primer and all, after soaking in there for 3-4 hours.
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Feb 10, 2021 20:10
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The Moon Monster posted:He's definitely on the short list of contenders for "world's best miniature painter" imo. He mainly does large scale stuff these days but his coolminiornot name is Yellow one if you want to check out his older small scale stuff. The style is a bit dated but it's still really impressive. Looking through his CoolMini pictures and of course, he's the guy who painted the best Crimson Fist ever.
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Feb 10, 2021 20:43
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I was wondering if someone has experience with this that can help me out. I just received the three Raphael brushes I ordered from Jackson's Art and the ferrules are slightly bent, due to the flimsy cardboard packaging they shipped them in. Is this a common occurrence from this place? Jackson's has come highly regarded, as well as the brushes, but I didn't expect them to be shipped in what is essentially a cardboard folder.  Has anyone dealt with things like this from this company? How did they resolve it? I sent them a message on their website and have yet to hear back from them and I'm wondering what to expect.
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Feb 11, 2021 05:24
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Haven't had any experience with them specifically but ugh buying brushes online is such a shitshow. I'm not surprised that some underpaid / overworked Amazon stocker just tosses a brush in a box and sends it down the line but there's not really an excuse for an actual art store not knowing how to package brushes. So far the only place I've bought a brush from online that I would ever do business with again is Rosemary and Co. Everywhere else has either just chucked them in a box or a padded envelope and usually doesn't even put a ferrule cap on it (not that it would ever stay on anyway but at least the thought would count a little bit). Hopefully they get you sorted out - I'd definitely be treating a brush like like as receiving damaged goods.
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Feb 11, 2021 08:00
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:I was wondering if someone has experience with this that can help me out. I had this exact problem with dick blick once, cardboard sleeve they sent the brushes in was jacked up and a couple brushes were bent beyond recovery. I contacted their customer service with photos of the brushes and packaging and they immediately refunded me.
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Feb 11, 2021 08:11
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Haven't had any experience with them specifically but ugh buying brushes online is such a shitshow. I'm not surprised that some underpaid / overworked Amazon stocker just tosses a brush in a box and sends it down the line but there's not really an excuse for an actual art store not knowing how to package brushes. If this were just an Amazon purchase I wouldn't be as surprised, but this was from the retailer. They did place the brushes in a plastic bag with caps on them, but the package that is is is basically a branded 6"x1' folded piece of corrugated cardboard glued shut. Bucnasti posted:I had this exact problem with dick blick once, cardboard sleeve they sent the brushes in was jacked up and a couple brushes were bent beyond recovery. I contacted their customer service with photos of the brushes and packaging and they immediately refunded me. Honestly, these aren't bent nearly that badly, but if I were to roll them on the table, there's a definite wobble to the ferrule on all 3. I'd be fine returning them for replacements, I'd just rather not wait another two months shipping to and from the uk. I feel a bit nitpicky about it, but this is the first time I bought nice brushes, and the first time I've bought brushes online. We'll see what happens. Thanks for the info goons!
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Feb 11, 2021 08:36
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See if you can restore the brushes a little bit with brush soap. Give it a good washing with the soap and then rinse it out one more time, dab it dry, roll the brush in the lather and then form a tip and let it dry. Master's Brush Cleaner is also a conditioner and it should have some benefit in restoring brush hair straightness. But yeah I got my Raphaels from Jackson and didn't have a problem so I guess it's just bad luck. Definitely let them know though.
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Feb 11, 2021 09:11
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If it's just bent ferrules and the actually hairs themselves aren't bent / split they're probably still usable honestly, but yeah that's still a lovely introduction to good brushes. But the hairs go really far up into the ferrule so it would probably be hard to tell if there's anything weird going on that might become a problem later.
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Feb 11, 2021 10:13
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I'm having a bastard of a time painting brown leather. Anyone got some recipes they like?
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Feb 11, 2021 17:21
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Winklebottom posted:I'm having a bastard of a time painting brown leather. Anyone got some recipes they like? I use the newbie method of Dryad Bark base, Agrax Earthshade wash, Gorthor Brown highlight, Baneblade Brown second highlight.
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Feb 11, 2021 18:39
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AndyElusive posted:I use the newbie method of Dryad Bark base, Agrax Earthshade wash, Gorthor Brown highlight, Baneblade Brown second highlight. Same. Although I've done it with Rhinox hide as well.
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Feb 11, 2021 18:42
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Snakebite leather contrast has been a real treat for me.
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Feb 11, 2021 19:40
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Quick mini-review. Right off the bat, this is an AK Interactive product. Like many overzealous euro-hobby companies, they seem to have permanent foot/product-in-mouth disease. While this book is completely inoffensive, some may want to shy away from companies that have made dumbass business moves or released some tasteless products from time to time. Bringing this back up because I just found out my workplace has a policy of reimbursing employees for one nonfiction book purchase per month...and there's no listed limit on the cost of the book! Hell yes.
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Feb 11, 2021 22:41
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Did a color palette test for my Novokh Necrons -- I went with a bone head instead of a red head. I'm pretty happy with it, especially since this is my first time trying to do the green glowy effect.
Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 23:21
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Looks nice. Can you mirror it on the scarabs and do their heads bone with a green glow in the middle?
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Feb 11, 2021 23:27
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Legendary Ptarmigan posted:Looks nice. Can you mirror it on the scarabs and do their heads bone with a green glow in the middle? Hmmm that's an interesting idea
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Feb 11, 2021 23:28
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