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Sultan Tarquin posted:I enjoy reading the modelling news website but christ their colour scheme, my poor eyes Gewehr 43 posted:Yes! Oh my god. It's awful. Are we talking about https://www.themodellingnews.com/? They can barely be said to have a color scheme; white text, black background.
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 07:25 |
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It gives me that annoying venetian blind overlay whenever you look at a site like that for too long. Got that 1998 IRC look.
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I thought to myself that it can't be that bad so I took a look for myself. I literally now have a migraine aura.
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Quick mini-review. Right off the bat, this is an AK Interactive product. Like many overzealous euro-hobby companies, they seem to have permanent foot/product-in-mouth disease. While this book is completely inoffensive, some may want to shy away from companies that have made dumbass business moves or released some tasteless products from time to time. Moving on... I've been a big fan of all of AK Interactives FAQ books, which up to now have dealt with painting techniques for Armor and Air. Now they have a new book out, FAQ - Figure Painting Techniques, by Kiril Kanaev. This mainly deals with the painting of busts and larger 1/35 and 1/16 scale figs, but the techniques are still of use to those that have figures in their vehicle diorama. This new book is a huge tome of amazing tips and techniques for figure painting. I hadn't heard of Kiril Kanaev before this, but evidently by the work on display he's a master. Everything from the products to use, to the different styles and techniques to pull off amazing paint-jobs. Definitely worth a buy for those with deep pockets. https://ak-interactive.com/product/figures-f-a-q-figure-painting-techniques-the-complete-guide-for-figure-scale-modelers/ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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My 11 year old daughter loves creating projects if they have clear instructions and direction. She enjoys lego kits and has built a few snap together bear g-guy models, but she just whips right through them. I figured she was ready for something more challenging and invited her to build a 1:72 Tamiya P-51 Mustang. WW2 model aircraft probably isn't her thing, but she has been enjoying it so far. She has a little bit of airbrush experience from other craft projects we've worked on, so I introduced her to the techniques of washes with Tamiya panel line accent to darken the recesses and drybrushing Vallejo acrylics to bring out the highlights. I helped glue in some of the fiddly bits, but almost all of the painting was done by her.
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^^^ Hell, that's probably better than my work on the same kit.Bloody Hedgehog posted:Figure Painting Techniques, by Kiril Kanaev. Do you have enough catalog to say if it's more useful than Angel Jiraldez's books?
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grassy gnoll posted:Do you have enough catalog to say if it's more useful than Angel Jiraldez's books? Unfortunately I've never managed to pick up either of Giraldez's books, but I think they could supplement them. Apart from technique, Giraldez seems to focus more on sci-fi, and Kanaev focuses more on fantasy and historical. Could give a nice perspective on different techniques for different subjects. I'm a collector though, and even beyond the learning aspect, I just like reading these sorts of books and admiring the work on display. I don't necessarily need to find "the best book about X", and then that becomes my main book on said subject. I just keep hunting down new books to add to my ever growing collection, even if the subject matter may overlap in places. I mean, I have the FAQ Aircraft book, even though I don't really do aircraft at all. But it's got amazing photography, techniques that can be applied elsewhere, and honestly, I think it's the best FAQ book put out so far. It's really an amazing book, and so far the apex of the FAQ line. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:by Kiril Kanaev grassy gnoll posted:Do you have enough catalog to say if it's more useful than Angel Jiraldez's books?
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Pierzak posted:Which ones? I only know of his painting guides for Infinity, which were terrible. Precisely why I asked. Something that's actually useful would be a nice change of pace.
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Oh, Giraldez's books are bad? I had heard he was an amazing painter, bit I guess the instructional parts aren't so good?
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I have Giraldez's volume 2. It's ok, haven't read through it all the way but seems useful. Abteilung's oil painting book is great though
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Jiraldez's first book is astoundingly useless, and may as well have been titled Draw the Rest of the loving Owl. Even if you know the techniques he's using, a breakdown will go something like "Here's a primer coat, now basecoat the whole thing, now do all your shading and highlighting and texturing, et voila." It's totally impenetrable and isn't even useful as a reference document. The second one, as Phi notes, is basically okay. It's not a great educational tool, and it doesn't provide any special insight into his work process, but the pictures are better and you get more in the way of itemized steps in the process.
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I'm about to start on Academy's Merkava IV and I want to step up the painting. Previously, I've only done acrylic with brush and airbrush. As inspiring as channels like Plasmo and Night Shift are, I'm a little lost on combining different types of paint they way they do. I want to avoid enamel because my only experience with it was terrible, and lacquer because I have no way to ventilate the fumes properly especially when it's 20-30F outside. As far as I can tell the correct order is this: Prime -> base acrylics/highlights -> acrylic varnish -> enamel panel liner ->more acrylic varnish -> oil paints that dry for a bit and get blended with odorless mineral spirits -> ? Seems like Abteilung 502 is pretty popular. tl;dr give me opinions about weathering with oils and stuff.
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Vorenus posted:I'm about to start on Academy's Merkava IV and I want to step up the painting. Previously, I've only done acrylic with brush and airbrush. As inspiring as channels like Plasmo and Night Shift are, I'm a little lost on combining different types of paint they way they do. I want to avoid enamel because my only experience with it was terrible, and lacquer because I have no way to ventilate the fumes properly especially when it's 20-30F outside. As far as I can tell the correct order is this: I'll get some things into your order, this is what I usually do. Prime -> base acrylics/highlights -> acrylic gloss varnish ->decals -> enamel panel liner ->more acrylic varnish (I usually don't do this layer of varnish because I'm paranoid about layer buildup) -> oil paints that dry for a bit and get blended with odorless mineral spirits -> More acrylic varnish -> Pigments -> Now you can break an antenna or landing gear Using oils is extremely easy and any artist oils brand will do. They are easy to apply and you can fix any fuckup with some solvent if you are working over a nice varnish layer. I haven't tried Abteilung, so I have no specific opinion on it. For tanks I use dark browns and ochres, combined with white on the top sections and black on the bottom/shadowed sections. You can also simulate dust and sand with sandy yellows. This is an example I did, although the final contrast between light and dark areas isn't too noticiable. ![]()
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Windsor also make 'oil' paints that can be thinned/cleaned with water.
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I use Winton oils and they work fine at something like half the cost of Abteilung.
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Painted up all the main colour parts except the fuel tank. Want to get that one really nice so I'll wait till I can focus on it fully. But for now just going to let these cure and attract the aura of dust that surrounds me. Really pleased with the colour though, just need to paint the incidental bits like the air filter their proper semi-gloss black.![]()
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Sparq posted:I'll get some things into your order, this is what I usually do. Molentik posted:Windsor also make 'oil' paints that can be thinned/cleaned with water. Ensign Expendable posted:I use Winton oils and they work fine at something like half the cost of Abteilung.
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Vorenus posted:Contrast or not, that's a great example of how much of a difference some oil weathering makes. Thanks for the advice! I use Winton oils as well and I think they work just fine. I did get a set of some water based oils years back and didn't care for them much but can't remember why. If you don't like using mineral spirits (can't blame you, I hate the smell), you can also use turpentine or turpenoid as a thinner/cleaner. I'm not sure how they compare in toxicity or whatever in the fumes, but they don't smell any where near as bad.
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Currently arguing with wife about the bottle of Future in my office. She wants to clean the drat floors with it!
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Jonny Nox posted:Currently arguing with wife about the bottle of Future in my office. ![]()
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SkunkDuster posted:I did get a set of some water based oils years back and didn't care for them much Same. They don't blend as well. I tried using them for a oil dot filtering and they'd always leave a permanent spot where you first applied the dot of oil. Never had that issue with true oils. Odorless turpenoids are relatively cheap and work like a charm, so there's no real drive for me to consider water based "oils" further.
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There's a kit I like a lot in my stash - a NH-90 1:72 helicopter - and I'd like to get pilots for the model. I don't think I can find something as specific as "modern French Navy helicopter crew", but is there a close match I should look for?
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Would these work well enough for your purposes?
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Furism posted:There's a kit I like a lot in my stash - a NH-90 1:72 helicopter - and I'd like to get pilots for the model. I don't think I can find something as specific as "modern French Navy helicopter crew", but is there a close match I should look for? Reedoak makes amazing 3d printed figures in multiple scales, lots of modern french stuff as well. http://reedoak.com/#!/1-72/c/14693249
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Thanks guys!
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Oh wow, those are significantly better than the ones I suggested. Go with those.
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Yeah, those figures are great. They make full 3d scans of someone wearing the correct gear etc and print that, instead of sculpting.
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Quick mini-review. Right off the bat, this is an AK Interactive product. Like many overzealous euro-hobby companies, they seem to have permanent foot/product-in-mouth disease. While this book is completely inoffensive, some may want to shy away from companies that have made dumbass business moves or released some tasteless products from time to time. I just ordered the big expensive book because I really want to get into figure painting and I can’t keep track of all the video tutorials I have watched on YouTube. I’m excited to get my hands on it!
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Molentik posted:Yeah, those figures are great. They make full 3d scans of someone wearing the correct gear etc and print that, instead of sculpting. Agreed. Reedoak figures are some of the best I've ever seen. Incredible, crisp detail that would just not be possible in injection molded plastic or even resin.
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It's too bad that the cleanup of the 3d printlines is quite a task. I believe the new 1/35 German Infantry by Tamiya set used 3d scanning as well, so it's getting more mainstream.
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Molentik posted:It's too bad that the cleanup of the 3d printlines is quite a task. I believe the new 1/35 German Infantry by Tamiya set used 3d scanning as well, so it's getting more mainstream. Yeah, but with any medium to large size company that shouldn't be an issue. Either they should be using the top-end 3D printers, which produce no stair-step lines whatsoever, or they're outsourcing their master models to companies that can print in this quality, and then molding those for their production figures. Like, if Tamiya starts releasing figures with visible 3D printing stair-steps, then yikes.
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Like, if Tamiya starts releasing figures with visible 3D printing stair-steps, then yikes. Any serious manufacturer starts doing that, it’s the end of the industry. Engineering and documentation will only get them so far before the garage kit makers step up and it’s going to be a hard sell to pay the big name premium for decals and a box.
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i thought the method of producing a model was creating a 3d computer model of it and then using a CNC to make the parts to cast a mold from
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Molentik posted:Yeah, those figures are great. They make full 3d scans of someone wearing the correct gear etc and print that, instead of sculpting. This right here is his to work smarter instead of harder. Imagine having D&D minis of your gaming group. But not for the party to use. No, instead you whip them out for big setpiece battles to serve as the villain, without comment or explanation.
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I was on ebay last week then this fell into my lap today. ![]() ![]()
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I’m building a Humber armored car, this is my second kit. I want to do a desert color scheme- does it matter what color primer I use?
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FastestGunAlive posted:Im building a Humber armored car, this is my second kit. I want to do a desert color scheme- does it matter what color primer I use? If airbrushing, not really, as paint can cover white, grey or black. If you are using regular brushes, I'd say a light grey primer will give you the best result. Sometimes it's hard to cover black with a light color and you'll need to apply more coats of paint.
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Or you can cheat and just use desert coloured primer.
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 07:25 |
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Thank you
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