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Ahh good points, thanks guys. Just saw some reduced from an online shop I was ordering from anyway, so I'll have a think about whether I really need some thinner paints.
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Feb 14, 2021 22:47
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i've noticed some vallejo paints only come in model air and not model color, which is weird. i have their german red brown surface primer and wanted the regular paint too - could only find it in VMA
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Feb 14, 2021 22:53
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  Basically done. Might try and find a Tzeentch decal and put it on the tabard
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Feb 14, 2021 23:33
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TheBigAristotle posted:Basically done. Might try and find a Tzeentch decal and put it on the tabard Nice, that turned out really cool Finished up this goblin smashing a skeleton this weekend.    
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Feb 14, 2021 23:52
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I prefer air paints even for brushwork personally, though it is true that you'd get more mileage out of thinning your own. I've never had a situation where I wanted paint *thicker* than the air versions, and usually I still thin them down even a little bit more. I do also have an airbrush though so a big part of is it that I like having paints that I can use to switch back and forth between airbrush / brush work with minimal tinkering for paint consistency / flow, etc.
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Feb 14, 2021 23:59
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jesus WEP posted:i've noticed some vallejo paints only come in model air and not model color, which is weird. i have their german red brown surface primer and wanted the regular paint too - could only find it in VMA Is “German Red Brown Surface Primer” an actual primer or a paint matching the color of a real world primer? If it’s a primer it would make sense to not be in the colors line because why would you want thicker primer. But if it’s a paint, then I dunno...
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Feb 15, 2021 01:23
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Bucnasti posted:Is “German Red Brown Surface Primer” an actual primer or a paint matching the color of a real world primer?
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Feb 15, 2021 01:31
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I have got another two divisions on their bases. All figures are from Stonewallfigures.co.uk, and were pre-painted. 19 pounds per battalion, 6 pounds per gun. Units from left to right are: Portuguese Line Infantry, British Guard Infantry, British Light Infantry, Royal Artillery 9 pounder, 6 pounder x3, Royal Horse Artillery 6 pounder, Portuguese 6 pounder, British Dragoons. I did a grey rock base, then yellow dry brush and then a dark green dry-brush/paint. I tried to cover up the areas that didn't have rocks on them with the dark green. I did a darker green this time, which I think works better than the previous batch. I still need to use a wash on everything, do some touch ups like red on the artillery torches, glue on grass tuffs, put black on the end of guns and paint the bases edge (maybe do a dark brown) and the never yet done flags. I have a number of citadel washes (all the main colours) and the army painter wash collection. I used Nuln Oil on the first group you can see pictures of, but I think it's way to dark. I think I'll maybe use Army Painter Light Tone wash? Or Agrash Eathshade? Or a blue/red/brown/green citadel washes based on the unit's primary colour? I really should have spray painted the bases first before putting anything on them - maybe a very dark green? So I need some advice if anyone has an opinion or experience: What colour should I paint the bases before putting stuff on them? What colour should the base edges be? What colour(s?) wash should I use?      Also I left my pot of Citadel Chaos Black open and now it's pretty much useless. So there's that. Comstar fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Feb 15, 2021 |
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Feb 15, 2021 14:19
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Skails posted:Nice, that turned out really cool This is cool as hell.
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Feb 15, 2021 16:20
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^Might even go so far as to say it owns bones
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Feb 15, 2021 16:49
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Haven't had any experience with them specifically but ugh buying brushes online is such a shitshow. I'm not surprised that some underpaid / overworked Amazon stocker just tosses a brush in a box and sends it down the line but there's not really an excuse for an actual art store not knowing how to package brushes. I just bought some Rosemarys and they really do do a good job of packaging them. I had been using a bit more upmarket brushes but it seems like no matter who I bought them from they do a poo poo job of packaging them. Kind of surprising that legit art supply businesses wouldn't know how to ship a drat paint brush but apparently that's where we're at.
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Feb 15, 2021 20:45
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Lord Ludikrous posted:So I’ve been working on my Thousand Sons Helbrute, which is a model I’ve been dying to get a hold of for quite some time. It hasn’t disappointed as it’s a very fun model to work with, and as you would expect I have magnetised the absolute poo poo out of it. It’s also the easiest model I’ve magnetised so anyone thinking of doing it should not feel intimidated. Love it dude, welcome to the thousand Sons Helbrute club. Still working on my tanks, but did fully finish and base my magnetized helbrute. Even tried weathering on the feet. 
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Feb 15, 2021 23:11
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Tried my hand at green stuff for the first time. It's fun and easy! My Space Wolf Sargeant wasn't looking very... Wolfy, so I threw a pelt on his back. Much better now I think. 
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Feb 15, 2021 23:30
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Also finished up more of my Novokh Necrons. 19 warriors and a Canoptek Reanimator done today  
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Feb 16, 2021 00:55
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:Tried my hand at green stuff for the first time. It's fun and easy! My Space Wolf Sargeant wasn't looking very... Wolfy, so I threw a pelt on his back. Much better now I think. Hell yeah! I tried greenstuff a while ago and it was just such a pain to work with, I might have just had a bad brand (kneaditite) of it though or something. I've only ever used liquid greenstuff and it's just for gap filling though. But good work on that. I spy some drybrushed white frost on there
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Feb 16, 2021 01:11
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Green stuff is all literally made by one company and resold under different brands.
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Feb 16, 2021 01:47
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Spanish Manlove posted:Hell yeah! Eej posted:Green stuff is all literally made by one company and resold under different brands. I'm fond of it's ability to stick to literally anything. That said, I'd recommend anyone unhappy with it try some alternatives. Most kneadable two-part epoxies are significantly less sticky and have better overall working properties.
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Feb 16, 2021 08:48
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Yesterday was the first day in a while where there was no snow on the ground and no form of water was falling from the sky in bits, so I dashed out to spray varnish a bunch of stuff (and also prime everything I could lay hands on that needed it). All Malifaux 2e/3e plastics. Some Will O' The Wisps that I painted a couple of weeks back but couldnt apply water to the bases until they were varnished. I have no idea how the guy on the left is supposed to attach securely to a flat base (and from the looks of a google image search, neither does anyone else) so I made him a little swamp dock to be vaulting over.  Ryle Hoffman.  Marlena Webster.  Then this weekend has been a Jack Daw crew. Ebay rescue, but only one notable construction gently caress up between them that I could find. Jack Daw. Deliberately based him differently from his crew because as a crew leader the model is fine, but doesnt exactly stand out much on his own.  Lady Ligeia.  Montresor  The Guilty. I usually like the whole Malifaux Aesthetic in general, but I have to admit I'm not fond of these models. Particularly the dismembered guy on the cross feels very "doodle in the margin of a goth teenagers maths homework". If I'd had these new I'd have probably painted the guy in the electric chair as a sub assembly because trying to paint the trousers through the side of the chair was annoying as hell. The guy on the gurney is my favourite of the three, or at least the one of the three I didn't actively dislike by the time I was done with them. I'm very much not confident that he's securely fastened on that base if you were to pick him up by the figure tbh... 
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Feb 16, 2021 13:17
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Skails posted:Nice, that turned out really cool Ace work
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Feb 17, 2021 00:52
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Completed a 10 man Primaris Intercessor Fortis Kill Team today after starting them on January 1st.  I wanted to get better at painting faces, so I decided I'd make as many of my Deathwatch helmetless as possible. Like some kind of hockey team from the 60's.  Marcus Valeo of the Imperial Fists and Numitor Sullo of the Ultramarines  Everac Starkbrow of the Space Wolves and Armaros Astovun of the Dark Angels  Constanatus Morressius of the Doom Eagles and Solaro Torvaec of the Raven Guard  Marellen The Reclaimed of the Stormcast Eternals and Orros Feirros of the Iron Hands  Sol Ko'tan of the Salamanders and Leonael Joro of the Blood Swords
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Feb 17, 2021 05:46
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AndyElusive posted:Completed a 10 man Primaris Intercessor Fortis Kill Team today after starting them on January 1st. These look INCREDIBLE! You nailed Marellen especially
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Feb 17, 2021 07:01
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I really like the emo raven guard.
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Feb 17, 2021 08:25
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Hey, I got pointed here for advice after I posted some heroforge color-printed minis in the D&D thread (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3877675&pagenumber=561#post512564395). Suggestion was that since the metallic color didn't really print effectively, I could maybe touch it up with a metallic sharpie. I am *bad* at painting (fumble-fingered and my eyes aren't that great any more either). Is there a way I could give the armor on the figures a brassy sheen without much risk?
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Feb 17, 2021 10:59
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:Hey, I got pointed here for advice after I posted some heroforge color-printed minis in the D&D thread (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3877675&pagenumber=561#post512564395). Hey man! Nice to see you here from the PoE thread  I think what would work best is a spray can. You'll just need to mask the appropriate parts (it's very easy with the proper hobby tools, which aren't expensive). But to be honest, if all you're going for is making some armor metallic, you'd be doing just fine with a brush and generic hobby paint. It's much easier than it looks, especially for what you want to do. And you could still mask.
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Feb 17, 2021 12:48
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 After ruthlessly batchpainting a army over the past month I thought I'd slow down on a model and consciously try new things. Used a lot of glazing on the armor, and tried doing a worn leather texture on the boots.
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Feb 17, 2021 13:13
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Furism posted:Hey man! Nice to see you here from the PoE thread I was wondering what thread I knew that name/avatar from  Agreed that you should just spend the $10 combined on a medium/smaller hobby brush and a pot of silver paint.
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Feb 17, 2021 13:36
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Furism posted:Hey man! Nice to see you here from the PoE thread A brush probably won't work for me. I've tried brush painting miniatures before and like I said I'm *bad* at it. Paint went everywhere. I get eyestrain and the brush quivers. What about like a translucent but "shiny" clearcoat type thing? I could mask the horse and the head, the nonmetal parts, with masking tape and just spray everything else. Or maybe a very lightly shiny translucent spray coat I could just spray over everything?
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Feb 17, 2021 14:43
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:A brush probably won't work for me. I've tried brush painting miniatures before and like I said I'm *bad* at it. Paint went everywhere. I get eyestrain and the brush quivers. The product you are thinking of is "Gloss Varnish", or for the slightly shiny version "Satin Varnish". If you just want it shinier, that will work. You can buy a spray can or a wee pot and a paintbrush. Me I'd lean towards that way for what you want to do, because for me "put it with a paintbrush on everything apart from the head, plume, and horse" seems easier than "mask the skin and horse then spray it on", but I guess you could just cover the horse in whitetack or something. But either way will work. You can also get matt varnish and matt anything you made glossy by accident matt again, if "spray can the whole thing glossy, then matt the skin and horse back down again" seems easier.
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Feb 17, 2021 14:50
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Eh, he's a (conquest) paladin, he can be all over glossy, it's his aura.
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Feb 17, 2021 14:52
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:Eh, he's a (conquest) paladin, he can be all over glossy, it's his aura. If you go over him entirely with gloss varnish it will probably look more like he's covered in a layer of mucous, tbh. Do you have any friends who paint minis? If all you want is the metal parts on two minis covered with a single coat of metallic paint that's probably something a middling painter could manage in ten or fifteen minutes.
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Feb 17, 2021 15:02
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The Moon Monster posted:If you go over him entirely with gloss varnish it will probably look more like he's covered in a layer of mucous, tbh. Do you have any friends who paint minis? If all you want is the metal parts on two minis covered with a single coat of metallic paint that's probably something a middling painter could manage in ten or fifteen minutes. Well, he did get swallowed by a gelatinous cube last session . . . Good call, I might know a guy. Thanks.
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Feb 17, 2021 15:20
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Just wanted to post some WIP of my Tamiya t-34/76. it's my first time painting a vehicle and using an airbrush so it has definitely been a learning experience, but im pleased with the results so far. In true Soviet fashion I'm planning on building several more of these in various configurations. As for this one, I still need to finish the running gear/tracks and get some kind of words on the side of the turret. I'd also like to add some better defined rust but i worry i've already junked it up too much.   
punishedkissinger fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Feb 17, 2021 |
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Feb 17, 2021 15:24
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:Hey, I got pointed here for advice after I posted some heroforge color-printed minis in the D&D thread (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3877675&pagenumber=561#post512564395). You can absolutely use a metallic sharpie, paint marker, etc. You can mask off parts of it with silly putty if you're nervous about coloring something you shouldn't. Just know that markers will fade after handling enough, and paint markers should be okay for a while, but might still come off some without spraying primer first. There is brushable primer, but that ventures into painting territory. If you're feeling adventurous, there's always this stuff: https://ak-interactive.com/product-category/paints/true-metal-paints/ You can apply it with anything, but a q-tip would probably be best. As an added bonus you can polish/buff it for even more shine.
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Feb 17, 2021 20:40
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Geisladisk posted:
Honestly my eyes went to the boots without even reading what you wrote, so the attention you put into them shows. They read like leather to me, so I think you did it with the texture. I'm sure if you did it a few more times you'd have it down.
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Feb 17, 2021 21:09
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How the gently caress do people get straight lines on their swords etc? Maybe I just need to cut out the coffee. I tried glazing some blends for the first time (on the blade), and I'm not totally happy, SUPER not happy with the edge highlight lines. But... I do love my Novokh/Szarekh mashup scheme. Proper deathly and grimy. 
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Feb 17, 2021 23:03
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For straight lines: Controlled breathing, setting both hands on my desk, going nice and slow, using a very sharp brush, and practice. Also knowing that I can try a few times to get it right.
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Feb 17, 2021 23:09
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Also look into liner or rigger brushes - they're what people use to paint really long, fine lines like the rigging in sailboats. Basically a small number of very long, flexible bristles that are perfect for steady lines in a single stroke.
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Feb 18, 2021 00:27
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When edge highlighting you want to use the edge of the brush not the tip whenever possible, will make it much easier to keep it both following the edge and equal width the whole line.
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Feb 18, 2021 00:30
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Ghislaine of YOSPOS posted:These look INCREDIBLE! You nailed Marellen especially MRLOLAST posted:I really like the emo raven guard. Thanks guys. The Stormcast and Emo Marine are my faves too.  Related: I just got a message on Twitter from Nick that the Warhammer Community dudes are going to feature my Deathwatch Kill Team boys on their next weekly Hobby Roundup! 
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Feb 18, 2021 00:34
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Cinara posted:When edge highlighting you want to use the edge of the brush not the tip whenever possible, will make it much easier to keep it both following the edge and equal width the whole line. This is definitely good advice for sharp edges. On stuff like the line down the center of sword blades I could never get it to work though - the surface is just too broad / shallow and you either get an overly thick line or risk the tip of the brush marking up the blade. Might just need to practice it more, though.
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Feb 18, 2021 02:00
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