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bred posted:The parts are so close to each other that finish differences may stand out if trying to match. I'd consider replacing the top and bottom from the same board and finish to get a good match. Or as an alternative, go for a strong contrast, like a blonde wood.
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Feb 20, 2021 18:35
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Do people have tips to get wood for projects in cool (cheap) ways? There's actually a lot of reclaimed wood available where I live, but it's Portland so there's a massive hipster markup since everyone wants a coffee table made with reclaimed barn wood from 1910 that's artisanal, heritage, heirloom, and unique.
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Feb 20, 2021 18:45
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LODGE NORTH posted:Ah, perfect perfect. Thanks all. Hello, friend. 1/2" plywood would maybe suffice, but it may also be prone to bowing, whereas 3/4" would be more stable. Maybe ask the wood people at Lowe's. For stain, probably best to get a 1/2 pint combo oil mix like watco or minwax, which is almost impossible to screw up (in normal temps). Don't worry about what to do with what's left over, and Good luck!
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Feb 20, 2021 18:46
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pseudanonymous posted:Do people have tips to get wood for projects in cool (cheap) ways? There's actually a lot of reclaimed wood available where I live, but it's Portland so there's a massive hipster markup since everyone wants a coffee table made with reclaimed barn wood from 1910 that's artisanal, heritage, heirloom, and unique. There's a Reuse store here in Seattle that carries reclaimed wood. Unless you really need that reclaimed wood look I'd just go to the lumber yard. Prices seem okay, but we have the same problem with it being extra popular. The only other thing I can think of is becoming friends with a general contractor that does a lot of reclamation work and just buying it right off of them.
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Feb 20, 2021 18:54
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pseudanonymous posted:Do people have tips to get wood for projects in cool (cheap) ways? There's actually a lot of reclaimed wood available where I live, but it's Portland so there's a massive hipster markup since everyone wants a coffee table made with reclaimed barn wood from 1910 that's artisanal, heritage, heirloom, and unique. My dad and I joined orange county wood workers when he retired and volunteered at their toy making program before covid. Those guys have so many connections that they have more wood than they can handle and gave some to us regularly. We're on the mailing list for their classifieds where there are great deals.
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Feb 20, 2021 18:57
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Helped a friend with the roof on a gazebo for one of his customers today. Customer didn't want joist hangers so the roof was all attached with cross laps. Must have done at least 40 of the things, in the rain, with only a circular saw and a chisel. I don't want to see another lap joint for awhile, and theres some ropey ones in there where the measurements weren't quite right, but it looks good enough for an outdoor project.  
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Feb 20, 2021 19:28
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pseudanonymous posted:Do people have tips to get wood for projects in cool (cheap) ways? There's actually a lot of reclaimed wood available where I live, but it's Portland so there's a massive hipster markup since everyone wants a coffee table made with reclaimed barn wood from 1910 that's artisanal, heritage, heirloom, and unique. Move to Windsor/Detroit. No hipsters and the decayed ruins of north amerias once great industrial capacity provides some great deals on old tools and pallets!
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Feb 20, 2021 19:58
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Rutibex posted:Move to Windsor/Detroit. No hipsters and the decayed ruins of north amerias once great industrial capacity provides some great deals on old tools and pallets! Lol if you think Detroit won't get a hipster infestation in the next 5-10 years that's on a scale with Portland, and Capitol Hill in Seattle, and Northern California.
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Feb 20, 2021 20:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:Hello, friend. 1/2" plywood would maybe suffice, but it may also be prone to bowing, whereas 3/4" would be more stable. Maybe ask the wood people at Lowe's. For stain, probably best to get a 1/2 pint combo oil mix like watco or minwax, which is almost impossible to screw up (in normal temps). Don't worry about what to do with what's left over, and Good luck! Ended up getting espresso and dark walnut since I wasn’t sure which would be closest, but I may go with the suggestion bred bought up and mix them so I can get a slightly darker tone going too. With the board I got cut, I will probably just sand it down a little bit to get rid of the tiny splinter bits and then apply the stain. From there, I should be set. Thanks for the help, everybody. The steps going forward seem easy enough - just gotta go ahead and do it.
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Feb 20, 2021 20:08
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serious gaylord posted:Helped a friend with the roof on a gazebo for one of his customers today. Customer didn't want joist hangers so the roof was all attached with cross laps. Must have done at least 40 of the things, in the rain, with only a circular saw and a chisel. That's a lot of notchery! I've done them with the cross joists resting on top of the ones they're perpendicular to, just toenail down. Or maybe a 1" notch. Sometimes top with lattice.
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Feb 20, 2021 20:36
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That's some wonky looking brickwork.
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Feb 20, 2021 20:42
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bred posted:My dad and I joined orange county wood workers when he retired and volunteered at their toy making program before covid. Those guys have so many connections that they have more wood than they can handle and gave some to us regularly. I can't believe I didn't think to look these guys up, I've been back in the area for 3 years. I don't have a lathe, but I do normally have an excessive amount of time on my hands to help make toys in whatever other capacity. Think I'll start jumping in on meetings.
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Feb 20, 2021 21:05
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Blistex posted:That's some wonky looking brickwork. I'm no expert, but it seems OK to me, just weathered. Is there something specific that stands out to you as bad?
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Feb 20, 2021 21:52
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Just looked at it on a PC screen and it looks better. The gap two rows above the right corner of the ladder was messing with me.
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Feb 20, 2021 22:18
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's a lot of notchery! I've done them with the cross joists resting on top of the ones they're perpendicular to, just toenail down. Or maybe a 1" notch. Sometimes top with lattice. I don't ever want to notch a roof joist again.
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Feb 20, 2021 22:59
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Alright, so I’m in business. Wood has been cut, is now drying after a weird probably badly done mix of dark walnut and espresso and all that’s left is plopping it on the bars. Already did this beforehand to make sure it fit, but the next time I do it, it’ll be permanent. Instructions themselves also recommend running some steel wool over the stain once it’s all dry to remove all dust and bubbles etc. Here’s a bonus question, though. Since I’m sticking it on top of the bars, it’ll just be resting there but can clearly slide off. Is there any type of product made for these scenarios? Like a specific tape or grip that I can attach to the sides? Don’t need anything major, just some sort of security in case I bump into this somehow.
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Feb 21, 2021 01:00
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LODGE NORTH posted:Here’s a bonus question, though. Since I’m sticking it on top of the bars, it’ll just be resting there but can clearly slide off. Is there any type of product made for these scenarios? Like a specific tape or grip that I can attach to the sides? Don’t need anything major, just some sort of security in case I bump into this somehow. https://www.thistothat.com/ is a good resource for this kind of question.
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Feb 21, 2021 01:27
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I'd just drill through the metal and screw into the wood from the bottom. Alternatively, get a few L brackets and attach them to the underside so they press against the metal bars from the side and capture it to keep it from moving side to side. Edit: vvv oh yeah! vvv Uthor fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Feb 21, 2021 |
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Feb 21, 2021 02:25
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Uthor posted:I'd just drill through the metal and screw into the wood from the bottom. Or even just attach a few little tabs/strips of plywood
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Feb 21, 2021 02:30
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LODGE NORTH posted:Here’s a bonus question, though. Since I’m sticking it on top of the bars, it’ll just be resting there but can clearly slide off. Is there any type of product made for these scenarios? Like a specific tape or grip that I can attach to the sides? Don’t need anything major, just some sort of security in case I bump into this somehow.
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Feb 21, 2021 03:03
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pseudanonymous posted:Lol if you think Detroit won't get a hipster infestation in the next 5-10 years that's on a scale with Portland, and Capitol Hill in Seattle, and Northern California. We already have it, that's what Royal Oak and Ferndale are.
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Feb 21, 2021 03:37
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serious gaylord posted:I don't ever want to notch a roof joist again. You could have just clamped a load of them together and run 2 cuts with the saw and a straightedge, then chopped it all out....or is that what you did?
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Feb 21, 2021 05:28
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Mr. Mambold posted:You could have just clamped a load of them together and run 2 cuts with the saw and a straightedge, then chopped it all out....or is that what you did? Yeah, 7 at a time.
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Feb 21, 2021 08:53
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This is probably everyday nothingnnesss to you guys, but man, I feel accomplished. 
LODGE NORTH fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Feb 21, 2021 |
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Feb 21, 2021 08:58
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I knocked up this drawing board so i can draw more projects ill probably never make. Folds flat, little dowel thing locks in place and its quite sturdy. Had to put some old inner-tube on the bottom to make it grippy, and I added a small lip to catch pencils. I really need to get some nicer drawing tools.      After Rex Kruegers latest videos I finally tried using an old wooden plane I’ve had in my shed for ages. After re-grinding the iron and flattening the sole it actually worked really well. I’m keen to try using it as a jack plane on future projects.   
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Feb 21, 2021 12:22
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LODGE NORTH posted:This is probably everyday nothingnnesss to you guys, but man, I feel accomplished. For you the day Woodworking Thread graced your inbox was the most important day of your life. For us, it was tuesday. Good job, looks good!
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Feb 21, 2021 14:53
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What is it about reflective surfaces that compels people to take off their clothes when taking a picture? Also the desk looks nice.
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Feb 21, 2021 15:07
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Blistex posted:What is it about reflective surfaces that compels people to take off their clothes when taking a picture? Very bold to assume I ever had clothes on to take off  Thanks guys! I’ll probably end up using command strips velcro for the security thing I brought up. It’s strong enough to keep it in place, removes easily, and it being velcro makes it so I can pop the shelf off for whatever reason and pop it back on later if I choose.
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Feb 21, 2021 15:14
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This may be a bit afield of woodworking, but I've been messing with making little plant labels out of scrap I have laying around. My handwriting is hot wet poo poo so I've been testing a few different methods of transferring reversed (laser) printed text onto wood. The first method I've tried is printing on acetate sheets (you can also do it with regular paper but I found the acetate worked better), lightly wetting the wood with acetone, and rubbing. This method can yield good results but it's extremely temperamental, particularly with how fast the acetone boils off. If you get the amount just right it's a clean transfer but you end up with a poor transfer if there isn't enough acetone and a lot of bleeding if there's too much. I can't dial it in well enough to really use it as one in three or four gets a good result.  (the black blobs on the last one are from me messing with methods of touching them up) The more consistent method seems to be using water based polyurethane on a reverse printed sheet of low weight printer paper. The transfer always starts off pristine, but you need to remove the paper with water and abrasion after the poly has dried and I've had a hell of a time doing that cleanly without accidentally removing parts of the text itself.  I'm guessing it would be a little easier using a toner cartridge that isn't on death's door so I'm going to try that as well as letting the poly completely cure before trying to remove the paper, but I was wondering if anyone had messed with this and managed to get consistent results.
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Feb 21, 2021 16:27
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Now that is a television
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Feb 21, 2021 16:37
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I used to do toner transfer for etching PCBs all the time. The best method ended up being using glossy paper (magazine pages work well) and a clothes iron. I never tried it on wood but it didn't really take that much heat to get it to transfer off the shiny paper. If you pre heat the wood a bit with the iron then laid the transfer over it pressed it for 30 secs it might work fine? It helps if you can crank up the print quality so you get more toner on the paper to transfer.
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Feb 21, 2021 16:47
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Yeah, I've had pretty good luck transferring toner to wood using just heat. My little basic wood burning kit came with a tip that's just like a 1" flat circle, so I've used that, but I bet an iron would work just as well. I've mostly used it to transfer templates for wood burning, so it's not permanent and small mistakes are fine, so ymmv
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Feb 21, 2021 16:54
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LODGE NORTH posted:This is probably everyday nothingnnesss to you guys, but man, I feel accomplished. That looks great. Some double sided tape (just 4 little corner pieces) will keep it from accidentally sliding. Doing it yourself has a rewarding feeling unlike any other. Soon enough you will walk the furniture store un-assembling everything in your mind and thinking "I can make that" 
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Feb 21, 2021 19:15
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Thumposaurus posted:I used to do toner transfer for etching PCBs all the time. The best method ended up being using glossy paper (magazine pages work well) and a clothes iron. more falafel please posted:Yeah, I've had pretty good luck transferring toner to wood using just heat. My little basic wood burning kit came with a tip that's just like a 1" flat circle, so I've used that, but I bet an iron would work just as well. I had been avoiding heat as the last time I tried a heat transfer (on cloth ~10 years ago, admittedly) it was a nightmare. My new toner cartridge came in so I gave transfering off of glossy acetate with heat a try. I started with an edge banding iron but a smaller one I had around (for doing curves and poo poo) was easier to apply pressure with and worked better. I was able to get a clean transfer consistently after loving around with it for a little while. Thanks!
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Feb 22, 2021 00:19
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A couple dumb rear end questions. I have no back ground in wood work, though a reasonable amount in machine work. 1st, I’m buying a birch butcher block counter top to use as the top for a standing desk since I work from home. I like the natural wood colors, is there a recommended finish y’all would choose? I’ve finished with linseed oil before, so I was thinking of that or tung. 2nd, I’ve got some projects to tackle and I think it’s time for babies first table saw. I’ve seen the old craftsman’s around for the $50-100 range and some times $200 with a nice fence. Is that the right way to go or should I just buy whatever contractor saw is on sale? I figure with a crapsman I need to make a zero offset insert for the blade as they don’t have any protections that I can see.
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Feb 22, 2021 14:36
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Sadi posted:2nd, I’ve got some projects to tackle and I think it’s time for babies first table saw. I’ve seen the old craftsman’s around for the $50-100 range and some times $200 with a nice fence. Is that the right way to go or should I just buy whatever contractor saw is on sale? I figure with a crapsman I need to make a zero offset insert for the blade as they don’t have any protections that I can see. I would personally get a newer one with safety features rather than something cheaper from an old garage. You don't really want to mess around with table saws, if that poo poo pulls you into the blade you can lose a hand very quickly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owng8yV4ySI
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Feb 22, 2021 14:50
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100% a huge fear of mine. I was assuming a zero clearance insert would be as good as a riving knife. I’d obviously love a saw stop, but the price is a bit high for me for my first foray into woodworking.
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Feb 22, 2021 15:40
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I've been using an old cheapo tablesaw that someone has lent to me/stored with me for rips and sled cuts and I can't wait to get a proper one, especially one with a larger working area. Working on a cheap table saw isn't that great. Right now I do whatever I can to avoid using the table saw except for the few functions that it does well (eg I cut a bunch of dadoes with it yesterday, and I've been using it to dimension rip tool handle blanks.
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Feb 22, 2021 15:53
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Sadi posted:100% a huge fear of mine. I was assuming a zero clearance insert would be as good as a riving knife. I’d obviously love a saw stop, but the price is a bit high for me for my first foray into woodworking. A zero clearance insert is a nice and good thing to have but it is in no way a substitute for a splitter or riving knife. A riving knife keeps things from coming in contact with the back of the blade and helps to prevent kickback and you Should Not Use a table saw without one imo. There are some aftermarket splitter things but I’m not personally familiar with them. A zero clearance insert helps a bit with things getting trapped and overall is a boost safety wise, but it’s a pretty minor one.
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Feb 22, 2021 16:35
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Splitters are fine. They aren't as versatile as a riving knife (the riving knife raises and lowers with the blade) and you may need to make multiple inserts if you are worried about the distance between the saw blade and the splitter.
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Feb 22, 2021 16:58
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