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Thanks everyone. I only have experience with the original X100 from like 10 years ago. It was awesome and got me hooked on the concept of this camera line. So really it's a matter of features and if saving $500 means I can otherwise enhance the experience with add-ons. I did see there are other lenses or converters or something.
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Jan 24, 2021 16:14
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I would do the v myself — it’s the biggest upgrade in a long time, and the lens in particular needed it. Part of the camera’s appeal is being just the camera and I don’t think any accessories other than a nice wrist strap are much to drive your decision on. You can always add that stuff in a year or two once you’ve enjoyed the camera as is.
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Jan 24, 2021 16:20
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Having owned an F for 3 years I’d go for the new one, the tilt screen is a huge quality of life improvement and so is weather sealing. The only time I’ve felt limited by the “inferior” lens on mine is macro but I don’t mind occasional softness or flaring [or I work around them]. I “miss” a lot more shots by being a bad photographer than I do being limited by my gear. That said if this is your first “real” camera it’s a lot of money. I’ve taken lots of great pictures with my X100F, I’d say if you don’t want to spring for a brand new V get a used F.
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Jan 25, 2021 03:47
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So uh, it's been a while since I used my Tamron macro, but I put it on my D750 and it won't autofocus anymore. Checked all the switches and stuff, other lenses autofocus just fine, tried reseating it a few times. Any ideas about what else to try before looking up a repair shop? It's this lens https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A49ZPLQ With the VC off, lightly depressing the shutter causes a faint click noise to emit from the lens, but that's it.
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Feb 12, 2021 06:31
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Hey dorkroom, hoping for your thoughts & advice.. an opportunity has come up at work where I'll be taking architectural interior photos for use on the website / work instagram and design competitions so I'll be learning how to use a real camera on the job. The boss is going to chip in or even pay for most of a camera which is pretty exciting! At first I was looking at canon full frame DSLRs, but then thanks to this thread, started looking into mirrorless. I don't have any lens collection or anything so starting from scratch. The last week or so I've been looking specifically at the canon eos rp which varies around $1600 - $2400 AUD and can come with the kit lens RF 24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM Also looking at getting the RF 50mm f/1.8 STM since it seems to be pretty good for its low price. And maybe also the Canon RF 35mm F1.8 MACRO IS STM... (And a solid tripod... Is a Manfrotto 290 Light Tripod + Befree Live Fluid Head, 146cm max height overkill / underkill?) I've seen & read lots of good reviews for this camera but also heard the dynamic range isn't that great. I want to be able to take nice shots of the fancy houses the boss designs, especially the interiors. But I love architectural photos where it captures the light outside as well as inside. Would I need to overlay a few shots at different exposures or something here. See below an example of the sort of photos I'd be hopefully taking. I don't want any super wideangle distorted views at all, need to be able to capture detail etc in natural lights of some pretty swanky interiors. And also be able to take the odd close up of architectural or cabinetry detail. Do you think these three lenses would be good? Are any of them unnecessary? I can't really afford any super expensive lens but if there's another one you could recommend, or another size or aperture I should be looking at, any advice would be appreciated. I love what I've seen of the sigma art series but they're around $1000 here and I've no idea what the best one for the job would be. And probably most importantly, do you think the canon rp would be good enough for the job? Cheers!
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Feb 23, 2021 14:23
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Don't mean to blow your budget out of the water, but architecture is pretty much why tilt shift lenses exist.  You can do similar fixes in post processing if you compose it the right way when you take it, but tilt shift eliminates that entire work flow if your time is valuable. If you aren't capturing silly high ceiling rooms or multistory apartments like the ones depicted, you'll probably see little use for it, though. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 23, 2021 14:53
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um excuse me posted:Don't mean to blow your budget out of the water, but architecture is pretty much why tilt shift lenses exist. Haha thanks yeah tilt shift was one of the first things I started fixating on, but then found out how much they cost and I probably wont need it too much (at first anyway) as most the buildings are single to double storey with associated interior & garden landscaping shots. Some high ceilings though! And I would love to be able to get good photos of trees too 
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Feb 23, 2021 15:57
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Not sure why you'd want to grab those primes immediately — I'd suggest a wider angle something instead as you may find it more necessary than you're assuming right now. Or at least skip them till you've used the kit zoom for a while. Any reason you're doing the fluid head instead of a ballhead? For dynamic range it's very common to use exposure stacking in some form or another, sometimes with supplemental lighting to bring up the interior levels.
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Feb 23, 2021 16:44
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There aren't any really bad choices as far as camera bodies go, especially if you aren't shooting video. I wouldn't worry about iso performance or dynamic range, for static subjects like architecture you'll be on a tripod shooting at iso 100 anyway with a lens stopped down to a small aperature and compensate with longer exposure times. And you don't need fast lenses if you are shooting on a tripod at small apertures for the extra depth of field. I would probably want a wide angle zoom, usually a 16-35mm (full frame), for the flexibility. The rf version is probably out of your budget, but you could adapt one of the ef versions and the older ones are pretty affordable on the used market. The rf 50mm is probably not wide angle enough to shoot a room, but would be fine for detail shots, but if you adapt ef lenses there are lots of cheap options. The rf mount hasn't been around that long and doesn't have many third party options (you can of course adapt native lenses), so a sony might be a good choice for the lens selection. Tamron makes a 17-28mm f2.8 that is much more affordable and lightweight, the image quality is not at the level of the $2k rf lenses or sony g masters but probably suitable for what you need, definitely better than the kit lens. The sony bodies are very popular so you can probably find a good deal on one of the high res bodies used, like the a7r ii or iii. You should also consider lighting. A flash is very useful for lighting a room while balancing with natural light outside (and gels to match the color). Even a single flash you can bounce off a wall of the ceiling is pretty useful.
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Feb 23, 2021 16:46
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you'll want something wide if you're shooting interiors and a tripod you can level easily
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Feb 23, 2021 16:46
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powderific posted:Not sure why you'd want to grab those primes immediately — I'd suggest a wider angle something instead as you may find it more necessary than you're assuming right now. Or at least skip them till you've used the kit zoom for a while. Any reason you're doing the fluid head instead of a ballhead? For dynamic range it's very common to use exposure stacking in some form or another, sometimes with supplemental lighting to bring up the interior levels. Yeah I didn't know if the kit lens would do what I want to start with, I'll take those off the list and look for a wider angle for sure, thanks! No reason on that particular tripod, that was what was recommended by the camera shop with the camera ha. They're now recommending another fluid pan & tilt head as part of a bundle. I'll look into ballhead, thanks for the heads up  Fools Infinite posted:There aren't any really bad choices as far as camera bodies go, especially if you aren't shooting video. I wouldn't worry about iso performance or dynamic range, for static subjects like architecture you'll be on a tripod shooting at iso 100 anyway with a lens stopped down to a small aperature and compensate with longer exposure times. And you don't need fast lenses if you are shooting on a tripod at small apertures for the extra depth of field. Brilliant, thanks! If I remove those 2 primes I could get the Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM and a mount adapter for a similar price, would that be a decent enough wide angle to start with? And I'll definitely look at lighting, if you've any recommendations there that would be excellent. For no good reason really I've always kind of been anti flash for general photography but I see Ken Rockwell there is a huge fan of using it on everything haha. He probably has some tips I haven't checked out yet too ansel autisms posted:you'll want something wide if you're shooting interiors and a tripod you can level easily Ok cool, yeah I definitely didn't look into wide angles enough. Would be keen for any tripod recommendations, what to look for ie ballhead instead of fluid, as I'm a huge noob Thanks heaps for the help, massively appreciated!
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Feb 24, 2021 03:11
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I'm not the one to give tripod recommendations but typically fluid heads are more important for video. Here is a dpreview video about it. Flash is incredibly useful, just get an off brand godox or yongnou that does ttl for your camera. Even without any modifiers like umbrellas or soft boxes you can point it at a wall or ceiling and it just becomes a big, very bright overhead light that can fill a space nicely. To match natural light sources or indoor lights you need color gels to put over the flash to make the color of the flash match the other light source. The 17-40mm probably covers your needs nicely. Some more general advice for wide angle lenses is to make sure you level your camera front to back carefully so the vertical lines in your shots stay vertical. Otherwise you have to apply perspective correction. I can't give good recommendations for learning resources, but I don't like Ken Rockwell. I think the strobist gets recommended for flash photography pretty frequently. You could probably find some resources for real estate photography too.
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Feb 24, 2021 04:14
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art of spoonbending posted:Yeah I didn't know if the kit lens would do what I want to start with, I'll take those off the list and look for a wider angle for sure, thanks! No reason on that particular tripod, that was what was recommended by the camera shop with the camera ha. They're now recommending another fluid pan & tilt head as part of a bundle. I'll look into ballhead, thanks for the heads up I think the kit lens will be fine. For what you're doing you won't want shallow dof and you'll be on a tripod so speed isn't a concern.
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Feb 24, 2021 04:32
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art of spoonbending posted:Ok cool, yeah I definitely didn't look into wide angles enough. Would be keen for any tripod recommendations, what to look for ie ballhead instead of fluid, as I'm a huge noob any decent ballhead is fine, what you want is a good, easy to use level on the head itself so you can level the tripod for each shot - doing so will reduce perspective distortion when you're taking pics. keep it level, put your tripod at an appropriate height for each image, go wide, and crop later if you need to
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Feb 24, 2021 04:44
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Fools Infinite posted:I'm not the one to give tripod recommendations but typically fluid heads are more important for video. Here is a dpreview video about it. A really good deal came up today for the canon rp with a bundle of stuff including the RF 24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM , so I've ordered that, but left off the ef 17-40mm for now as the mount is apparently sold out in Australia and not available until they don't know when. But the bundle comes with an 'ATF Musketeer tripod' which is a fluid head I see they are also selling as part of a bundle for a higher end godox flash, wonder if it would be compatible with the Godox TT600 that the strobist recommends? He recommends a cheap LumoPro light stand. Thanks a lot for that strobist recommendation btw, it's good reading Yep familiar with the horizontal & vertical lines thing. I guess a tripod with a spirit level would be handy though the lines would be pretty obvious in the view finder Megabound posted:I think the kit lens will be fine. For what you're doing you won't want shallow dof and you'll be on a tripod so speed isn't a concern. That's good news, cos the 17-40mm lens can't be mounted until a shipment of mounts comes in ~one day~ so I'll hopefully get that in a couple of months, and in the mean time will be happy to find out what the kit lens can do ansel autisms posted:any decent ballhead is fine, what you want is a good, easy to use level on the head itself so you can level the tripod for each shot - doing so will reduce perspective distortion when you're taking pics. keep it level, put your tripod at an appropriate height for each image, go wide, and crop later if you need to Thanks, looking into that now! Thanks again, this place is the best
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Feb 24, 2021 09:35
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art of spoonbending posted:the mount is apparently sold out I am assuming you mean the RF adapters. You get one for free if you buy an R-series camera, though it does take some digging to find the campaign and it is specific to each country. The easiest way is to log on to CPS and find it through there. They state the delivery time is 45 days but i got both mine, on separate occasions, in about 15 days.
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Feb 24, 2021 09:52
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Ineptitude posted:I am assuming you mean the RF adapters. Yep sorry that's the one. It sounds like they came with them when new, but now they don't and all sold out everywhere (in australia) , waiting on shipments yay
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Feb 25, 2021 06:42
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No it is a campaign through CPS, not a with-purchase bundle.
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Feb 25, 2021 11:48
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art of spoonbending posted:Yep sorry that's the one. It sounds like they came with them when new, but now they don't and all sold out everywhere (in australia) , waiting on shipments yay The adapters have been been pretty scarce since the R5/R6 launched. It took me like two months to get mine (which was okay because it took three months to get the camera). I would have thought the availability would improve by now but I guess pandemic is still loving with production. Or maybe Canon just doesn't give a gently caress and wants us all to buy RF.
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Feb 25, 2021 13:24
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Regional thing? Here, in this corner of euroland both R5 and R6 bodies are in stock, delivery 1-3 days. Just cough up the cash
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Feb 25, 2021 13:44
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I bought an adapter before the cameras were out, grabbed the free one from CPS and sold that at RRP
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Feb 25, 2021 15:12
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gschmidl posted:I bought an adapter before the cameras were out, grabbed the free one from CPS and sold that at RRP Do you have a link for the free adapter through CPS?
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Feb 25, 2021 17:53
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BetterLekNextTime posted:Do you have a link for the free adapter through CPS? https://canon-cps-2020.sales-promotions.com/en/?country_promotion=2
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Feb 25, 2021 19:07
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Its worth mentioning that that link is only for UK and every country has their own link. The only way i was able to get to the redemption page for my country was to follow the link from my CPS page.
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Feb 25, 2021 22:14
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Ineptitude posted:Its worth mentioning that that link is only for UK and every country has their own link. Oh, huh. Maybe https://canon-cps-2020.sales-promotions.com/promo-language-country/ will work?
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Feb 25, 2021 22:57
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Thanks- those seem to all be euro links. It's possible Canon USA isn't participating.
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Feb 26, 2021 02:25
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Is there such a thing as a Lenspen but more durable or should I just stock up? I like them a lot, especially the little one for cleaning the viewfinder but they seem to disintegrate after a year or so.
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Mar 8, 2021 18:36
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qirex posted:Is there such a thing as a Lenspen but more durable or should I just stock up? I like them a lot, especially the little one for cleaning the viewfinder but they seem to disintegrate after a year or so. You can get bags of small, disposable pens. I keep the regular pen for reuse, but throw a couple of the small ones in the car, around my computer, where I might notice an issue.
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Mar 8, 2021 19:34
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Can we talk mics in here or should I go look for a video thread in CC? Looking for a decent, cheap mic to record myself playing piano for form check, analysis and vicious self-criticism. Guess I'd use it for general video stuff, too, but destroying my ego would be its main purpose for now. As references, I've tried the integrated mic of my camera (a7 III) and a Zalman lapel mic I had lying around. They're not awful, actually, but piano recording is clearly asking too much of them.
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Mar 8, 2021 21:42
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seravid posted:Can we talk mics in here or should I go look for a video thread in CC? Looking for a decent, cheap mic to record myself playing piano for form check, analysis and vicious self-criticism. Guess I'd use it for general video stuff, too, but destroying my ego would be its main purpose for now. Rode has some pretty decent shotgun mics with coldshoe mounts at various price points. Obviously best practice would be to have a mic on a stand somewhere directly over your piano, cabled to your camera, but it sounds like for the purposes you're describing, these should work fine - plus, you mention "general video stuff" and the on-camera shotgun is a versatile solution for that. Considerations are placement and directionality. I'm guessing the 'checking form' aspect of these recordings calls for at least most of your body in frame. Depending on how wide your lens is, placing your camera far enough for the right shot might make the piano sound too 'roomy', or allow too much ambient noise (this is likely what's happening with the internal camera mic). Microphones have funny-looking graphs called polar patterns that show how sensitive they are relative to how they're pointed. Anything classified as a 'shotgun' mic is by definition very directional; some are more focused than others but I'd reckon with any shotgun mic you'll notice a marked improvement over your internal mic, in isolating the piano sound.
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Mar 8, 2021 21:57
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Mister Speaker posted:Rode has some pretty decent shotgun mics with coldshoe mounts at various price points. Obviously best practice would be to have a mic on a stand somewhere directly over your piano, cabled to your camera, but it sounds like for the purposes you're describing, these should work fine - plus, you mention "general video stuff" and the on-camera shotgun is a versatile solution for that. Good points! So, a shotgun mic mounted on-camera is the best and simplest option, but could I place it close to the piano for optimal sound (cables and stands are not a problem) or would it be too directional to record correctly the whole range of the instrument? I know those patterns from WISP antennas, back when I messed with that stuff, and that main lobe does look pretty narrow.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:39
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Shotgun mics aren't super narrow. I just looked up a Sennheiser that's pretty flat up to at least 30 degrees off axis. I've got to think your room acoustics are going to make more difference than the angle of one part of a piano than another. I'm not into video sound but I'd guess you probably don't want a shotgun right next to the piano. If you wanted a mic in the middle of the sound, then maybe you'd want an omni mic or something hung over the piano? Do you follow any youtubers who would share their setup?
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Mar 9, 2021 00:43
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Shotgun mics are only noticeably directional when you get a longer one. The shorter the shotgun mic, the more it is designed to be closer to its subject. So ideally you'll want a short/medium rode shotgun mic and place it on a stand, pointed at the piano from about 1-2 feet above the top of the piano.
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Mar 9, 2021 02:10
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I should mention that my piano is a compact upright one, which means short vertical strings with the sound all coming from a fairly small space. The youtubers I follow that care about production values play on grands and use pairs of high-end condenser mics from high above the strings or a single high-end vocal condenser mic near the player that does double duty as they speak and play. Anyway, I'm convinced. I'll look into these short Rode shotguns, see what fits my budget. Thanks, all!
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Mar 9, 2021 02:29
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d0grent posted:Shotgun mics are only noticeably directional when you get a longer one. The shorter the shotgun mic, the more it is designed to be closer to its subject. So ideally you'll want a short/medium rode shotgun mic and place it on a stand, pointed at the piano from about 1-2 feet above the top of the piano. Yeah, this is true. I was going to say my reply was probably overthinking it; if you have the capacity to stand a single mic or an X-Y stereo pair over the piano go for that. But given "general video stuff" I think one of those li'l Rode coldshoe mics is going to cover the bases, and will definitely sound considerably better than the internal camera mic at any placement I can imagine for piano practice, unless you point it backwards or something. Mister Speaker fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 03:13
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I've never done video, really, but I figure since I'm thinking about buying a mic, might as well get one that can be used for more than studio recording*, even if it doesn't excel at anything. For now, I'm sure the shotgun will be good enough. *it won't just be for practice, I'll also record my performances for private use
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Mar 9, 2021 03:46
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For a while Oktava mics were a go-to cheap small diaphragm condenser mic if you wanted something more music focused, though I’m not sure if that’s still the main thing. I use a small diaphragm condenser (AT4053b) on a boom for indoor dialog and it sounds great; so not just for instruments.
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Mar 9, 2021 04:33
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I can find Oktavas somewhat locally, so I'll definitely keep them in mind. Good to know there's quality music mics out there that are not 500+ €
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Mar 9, 2021 05:17
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seravid posted:I should mention that my piano is a compact upright one, which means short vertical strings with the sound all coming from a fairly small space. A lot of shotguns are optimised for voice, you want an instrument mic for your piano, look into miking a piano rather than a mic that mounts to a camera as these reviews will be voice slanted. I see boundary condensers are often recommended for piano.
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Mar 9, 2021 09:25
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You might want to consider getting a Zoom recorder of some flavor. It wouldn't record the audio directly to the video track, but you could combine and sync them pretty easily on the computer, and you wouldn't have to worry about preamp quality, camera compatibility, or anything like that. Something like the Zoom H2n has a 5-mic array that you can use in different configurations depending on what you're recording:  And Zoom aims at musicians, so the mics do a good job at capturing instruments. You can find examples and advice on YouTube, too.
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Mar 9, 2021 15:21
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