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Granite Octopus posted:I picked up this amp from my parents place as they are cleaning stuff out. It’s nothing terribly special, early 80’s solid state amp by Pioneer, made in Japan, purchased in Singapore I think. It has a lot of sentimental value to me though. They used to have the matching tape deck and tuner but I think they both died and were thrown out. Do you have pictures of the leaking caps? Almost everything from that era I've taken apart had adhesive that turned brown and corrosive over time, usually the caps themselves were fine but they definitely looked like they were leaking. If that's what you're dealing with it's worth taking the time to chip the old stuff away and clean the areas with ipa. It's especially notorious for eating diode and resistor leads.
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Feb 21, 2021 17:07
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DoesNotCompute posted:Do you have pictures of the leaking caps? Almost everything from that era I've taken apart had adhesive that turned brown and corrosive over time, usually the caps themselves were fine but they definitely looked like they were leaking. If that's what you're dealing with it's worth taking the time to chip the old stuff away and clean the areas with ipa. It's especially notorious for eating diode and resistor leads. Thanks for the advice! I cleaned out the inside and I can see some corrosion on the wire links. I’ve tried applying some ipa but the residue is very hard. I was worried applying a lot of force would break other components or delaminate the PCB. I’ve got electronics cleaning solvent but that didn’t appear to do much either.   Edit: after doing a bit more research is it possible this is just glue? I can see some of the same stuff on the top of one of the caps but it almost certainly hasn’t leaked from inside - it looks like excess from when it was applied. 
Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 03:16
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Granite Octopus posted:Thanks for the advice! I cleaned out the inside and I can see some corrosion on the wire links. I’ve tried applying some ipa but the residue is very hard. I was worried applying a lot of force would break other components or delaminate the PCB. I’ve got electronics cleaning solvent but that didn’t appear to do much either. As someone else (sorry, credit to you, quickdraw goon) said, it was glue whose original purpose was to keep those parts from resonating at mains frequency, but many formulations turned corrosive after a while, resulting in exactly what you have captured with your camera. The good news is that those main filter caps are due for replacement anyhow, and replacing the jumpers is incredibly straightforward, though it’s wise to be gentle with the solder pads when removing/replacing the parts, as you don’t want them to peel up. If you’re thinking of what to use for the jumpers, stripped segments of CAT6 are always a good answer when it comes to replacing steel jumpers in bad shape. If you ever open a unit and see Elna Duorex (purple and silver) caps, replace every last one of them regardless of the current functional state of the unit. I love sone of Elna’s stuff, but that series has established itself as being incredibly prone to straight up leaking electrolytes and corroding the boards. They’re in some fantastic gear, but they’ve gone down as a terrible and deserved blemish on Elna’s track record.
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Feb 22, 2021 05:05
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Only grabbed this because it looked a little exceptional as compact bookshelf systems go:  The speakers were ruined though. I still imagine it's a half decent little tiny amp. And I've just scored a Technics SA-EX310!!! Testing it out RN. Anything in general I should be looking at with this thing? Offhand it looks in good shape.
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Feb 24, 2021 22:28
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loving finally https://www.macrumors.com/2021/02/24/belkin-soundform-connect-airplay-2/
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Feb 25, 2021 21:28
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Ok Comboomer posted:loving finally Why the gently caress did this take so long? Not that I'm complaining about my small collection of AirPort Express 2's but still, ffs...
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Feb 26, 2021 00:07
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Ok Comboomer posted:loving finally There's a few things like this already, from both the usual Chinese rando brands and AudioEngine.
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Feb 26, 2021 00:10
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qirex posted:There's a few things like this already, from both the usual Chinese rando brands and AudioEngine. rly? I thought audioengine’s was Bluetooth only. Edit: oh rad, but boo that it requires its own app
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Feb 26, 2021 00:10
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qirex posted:There's a few things like this already, from both the usual Chinese rando brands and AudioEngine. Link please? All the ones I could find are Airplay1 and now that I can play audio to everywhere in my house at once I ain't going back.
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Feb 26, 2021 00:13
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Ok Comboomer posted:rly? I thought audioengine’s was Bluetooth only. It costs twice as much and has its own app, I think the price will make this Belkin thing huge. As far as I know Apple was rejecting products that were trying to do this in the past, at one point they were absolutely telling vendors "it must have a speaker to be AirPlay."
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Feb 26, 2021 00:14
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qirex posted:It costs twice as much and has its own app, I think the price will make this Belkin thing huge. As far as I know Apple was rejecting products that were trying to do this in the past, at one point they were absolutely telling vendors "it must have a speaker to be AirPlay." ffs, Apple. I was getting ready to roll my own with a rPi.
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Feb 26, 2021 00:16
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Rearranging the living room for some new audio stuff I'll post about soon and realized I should probably get some new speaker wire and banana plugs. Is something like this with Amazon basics plugs going to be ok for a fifteen foot or so length running to 6ohm nominal 3.5 minimum speakers?
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Feb 28, 2021 16:39
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large hands posted:Rearranging the living room for some new audio stuff I'll post about soon and realized I should probably get some new speaker wire and banana plugs. Is something like this yup. You don’t even need the plugs if you don’t want them for aesthetics. If you insist on cleaning up the ends of your wires I prefer tinning them with solder instead. - - - - - - - - gonna crosspost this question here since this is the thread for people who like messing in the guts of their audio equipment: Ok Comboomer posted:anybody have any thoughts about the various class D kits that are out there? Mainly the Hypex/DIYclassD kits and the ICEpower stuff that’s available through such as Parts-express, etc?
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Feb 28, 2021 17:17
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large hands posted:Rearranging the living room for some new audio stuff I'll post about soon and realized I should probably get some new speaker wire and banana plugs. Is something like this That would be fine.
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Feb 28, 2021 17:18
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Can anyone recommend a direct drive turntable for under $350? I keep putting audio technica ones from Amazon in my cart to buy the next day only to find they’re out of stock. My uncle is a huge record collector and insisted on direct drive when I first asked him about it.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:36
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Why are you waiting until the next day to try to buy them?
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Mar 1, 2021 16:44
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Crutchfield has the LP-120 and 140 in stock.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:58
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Credit limit on my Amazon card (just moved and had some big purchases) and I really want the points instead of doing a payment plan 😅 My uncle also suggested going to a local Hi-Fi shop but they all seem pretty iffy. I don’t really wanna buy used. qirex posted:Crutchfield has the LP-120 and 140 in stock. Strange, all three listings there are saying out of stock. I’m in Minnesota.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:00
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Local hifi shops (that have been around a bit, so they've established enough business to sustain themselves) are a great resource. You'll pay an okay price, but will get immediate face-to-face recommendations for gear that suits your needs. You can also try stuff out side by side to do direct comparisons, which is 100% worth paying a couple bucks more than buying from some schmuck off Craigslist. I got my late 70s Sanyo table with a new Grado cart from such a shop, and it sounds better/more consistent than my Pro-Ject Debut Carbon did (until a wire went fucky inside the Pro-Ject tonearm, hence the purchase of the Sanyo). Super informative shop, let me try out and hear multiple tables. When I wanted some better speakers a few months later, he set up a three way ABC box to let me try my three speaker selections in a direct comparison, switching literally at the touch of a button. You won't get that from Amazon. E: plenty of hifi shops also sell new. My local place had like four new-in-box LP120 in stock when I was there.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:06
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qirex posted:Crutchfield has the LP-120 and 140 in stock. 120x comes with the VM95E which is the successor to the AT95e and a great cartridge for 90% of people. It’s also fully compatible with the rest of the VM range so there’s an easy upgrade path to some very good Shibata or MicroLine styli that can easily go toe-to-toe with 2M Blue. (notice that I said LP120x and not LP120, the 120 can often still be found but the x fixes a lot of its problems, like with the antiskate, so I wouldn’t get one unless it’s a 120X) 140xp is objectively the better turntable but it comes with a DJ cart that you’ll have to replace right away. Also there’s a brand new 120x out that has Bluetooth built in at the price point of the old one (~$275-299) with the older model at a lower price ($~230-250) so keep that in mind. But for best bang for your uncle- try finding an LP5 or LP5x (newer, upgradeable VM95e cartridge). It removes all the DJ bits and sliders and ups the build and playback quality somewhat. I think the motor might be a lot better too. Also it’s not trying to explicitly rip-off a Technics 1200. It certainly looks less chintzy than the 120/140 and much cleaner. It’s a more elegant and probably preferable direct drive machine for a hifi enthusiast. These are harder to find and they’re available between $350 and 450. There’s also the Pioneer PLX-500 which is another Technics clone (but a much less embarrassing looking one, IMO) and comes in white and black trim. It’s apparently a perfectly great TT (comes with a lovely DJ cart tho). The OP is like a decade old and all of the info on it is basically out of date at this point. We should really consider re-jiggering this thread or retiring it and starting fresh IMO.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:18
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Jedi Knight Luigi posted:Strange, all three listings there are saying out of stock. I’m in Minnesota. American Musical Supply, Sweetwater, and Guitar Center all carry Audio Technica (and usually Pioneer) TTs as well. Probably also Musicians Friend and Sam Ash. AMS will even let you put it on one of their no-questions installment plans if that matters to you.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:29
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Thanks again all. My uncle is still really hammering the point to go to a shop as well. I will be sure to post a pic with whatever I land on. My wife bought a fancy Etsy table to hold our records so I just need to get a TT and receiver set up there too.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:22
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Sweetwater is pretty nice to deal with in general for purchases of musical stuff.
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Mar 1, 2021 23:07
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Gave my MCS 6502 (Technics SL-23 analogue) turntable to a friend after putting a new belt and oem cartridge on there. I would’ve loved to keep using it but I already picked up an Ortofon Blue cartridge and headshell I couldn’t use with the turntable and my buddy wanted to get into vinyl so it worked out  I’m looking at various replacement options. Ideally I’d like to keep my budget around $300ish. One turntable that caught my eye is the U-Turn Orbit Special. Since I already have a replacement headshell and cartridge, I can get one with the walnut base, acrylic platter, basic cart, queuing arm,and no built in preamp for 389, which I’d be willing to go up to. I don’t particularly like that it doesn’t have the auto return, but otherwise it seems decent to me. Other stuff on my radar after poking around ebay and some quick googling include anything in the Technics SL-1xxx range, a Technics SL-QD 35 (replay option seems like a nice quality of life feature), Pioneer PL-1250 and Denon DP-1600. I think Marantz and Thorens tables are out of my budget. I feel like I’m pretty well out of my depth here... Any suggestions or advice on what you would do if you were in my shoes would be appreciated!
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Mar 2, 2021 00:41
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Only putting this up here because it's old and it's stereo. Has 8 ohm speakers, apparently. Keeper, or pass it on to a collector? Haven't listened very intently but it sounded not bad offhand. Of course they're heavy as hell. They also are the old, old school ones that enclose your ear entirely in a sealed chamber, so to speak. petit choux fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 03:38
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Can anyone give me a hand identifying what I’m cleaning with deoxit on my 45 year old ns70t speaker front panel pots? I come bearing pics  
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Mar 3, 2021 07:11
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Liberally spray deoxit into the window at the top of each potentiometer I've circled in red. Work the control back and forth it's full travel a bunch of times. Once the control feels smooth spray a bit more in to flush any schmoo out and leave a protective coating on the pot internals. You will want to hold the pot with a rag while cleaning as contact cleaner tends to shoot everywhere and you don't want excess on your speaker cones or cabinets. 
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Mar 3, 2021 09:09
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my turn in the barrel posted:Liberally spray deoxit into the window at the top of each potentiometer I've circled in red. TY. Was able to clean them up and they don’t cut out intermittently or get staticky when I mess with the knob. They also used to kinda just cut out or get very faint randomly whether or not I was messing with the dials. Hope that’s fixed too. Noticed some very light static on someone speaking when I was close. Probably something else wrong with them I guess. https://streamable.com/eh0qk1 Tabletops fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 23:07
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Tabletops posted:TY. Was able to clean them up and they don’t cut out intermittently or get staticky when I mess with the knob. They also used to kinda just cut out or get very faint randomly whether or not I was messing with the dials. Hope that’s fixed too. eh, keep turning them back and forth, there's probs still a piece or two of glunge in there, and do the same with your amp and your terminals and poo poo. Deoxit all the bits
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Mar 3, 2021 23:13
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Ok Comboomer posted:
I built a few amps with the ICEpower modules and I have to say that they're pretty great but the Hypex ones are just a little bit better in every way. Most noticeably is that I have a lower noise floor with no shielding (not mounted in a case and no chassis grounding) but also at higher listening levels, they don't strain as much and the input impedance isn't as much of an issue and won't require a buffer like the ICEpower sometimes do.
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Mar 3, 2021 23:20
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Ok Comboomer posted:eh, keep turning them back and forth, there's probs still a piece or two of glunge in there, and do the same with your amp and your terminals and poo poo. Deoxit all the bits Actually just changed my receiver cause I realized the one I’d been using for years (cause it had hdmi which played nice with my tv/ps4) which I had plugged my speakers into without much thought only operated at 80 watts and the ohm rating was “3”. I’m guessing it was not really meant to be used with speakers other than what it came with. Anyway went back to my old kenwood vr209 and they seem fine. Only problem is it doesn’t seem to have a uhh normal speaker wire terminal for a sub. The previously mentioned newish receiver with hdmi had a passive sub but my vr209 only has a RCA input for a sub. Ah well Tabletops fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 23:20
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Tabletops posted:Actually just changed my receiver cause I realized the one I’d been using for years (cause it had hdmi which played nice with my tv/ps4) which I had plugged my speakers into without much thought only operated at 80 watts and the ohm rating was “3”. I’m guessing it was not really meant to be used with speakers other than what it came with. Do you have a sub? Did you want to use the passive sub from (what I assume is) a HTIB?
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Mar 3, 2021 23:30
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Ok Comboomer posted:Do you have a sub? Did you want to use the passive sub from (what I assume is) a HTIB? It came with this Samsung receiver. Not sure what a HTIB is. It looks like this  It’s some kind of Samsung thing, came with 2 small tower speakers and a passive sub. I think I was remembering wrong as to why I started using it. I got it for free from a friend and it had a working remote (the vr209 didn’t have one when I got it for $5 from goodwill). But I went out and got a universal remote for $6 from ace yesterday and turns out it worked so I’m back to the 21 year old kenwood
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Mar 3, 2021 23:36
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HTIB stands for Home Theater in a Box and refers to a package of a receiver and speakers like that.
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Mar 5, 2021 07:20
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EL BROMANCE posted:HTIB stands for Home Theater in a Box and refers to a package of a receiver and speakers like that. Ah ok. Ty! Then yes I was hoping to use the sub from the htib
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Mar 5, 2021 18:26
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Tabletops posted:Ah ok. Ty! Then yes I was hoping to use the sub from the htib don’t
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Mar 5, 2021 19:04
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One of the reasons a lot of us nerd love telling people not to buy HTiB packages is that basically nothing in them is re-usable and even if it technically is it's usually so low quality mixing it with other gear will sound Real Bad.
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Mar 5, 2021 19:13
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qirex posted:One of the reasons a lot of us nerd love telling people not to buy HTiB packages is that basically nothing in them is re-usable and even if it technically is it's usually so low quality mixing it with other gear will sound Real Bad. Word. Guess I won’t then! How much can I expect to pay for a decent cheap sub? Vintage or otherwise. I was mostly wanting to use it as a cost savings measure Edit: sorry I realize this is probably answered elsewhere already lol Tabletops fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 22:10
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Tabletops posted:Word. Guess I won’t then! How much can I expect to pay for a decent cheap sub? Vintage or otherwise. I was mostly wanting to use it as a cost savings measure what’s your budget? What’s your budget for your whole system? What speakers do you plan to use with it? What equipment do you want? What equipment do you own and plan to use? Is it for TV? Music only? You gotta match your sub to your system and to your wants.
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Mar 5, 2021 22:13
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Ok Comboomer posted:what’s your budget? What’s your budget for your whole system? What speakers do you plan to use with it? What equipment do you want? What equipment do you own and plan to use? Is it for TV? Music only? Budget under $150 preferably. Idk what the system costs now as my speakers have appreciated a lot since I got them 12 years ago. Speakers are Yamaha NS-70ts I have a kenwood vr209 receiver. Very mixed use, TV, gaming,music etc. Prefer to use existing equipment, not going to get rid of the speakers as they have sentimental value and they also sound good Really just want a sub I guess. The receiver is 5.1 but I live in an apartment that I would struggle to properly fit one in.
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Mar 5, 2021 22:19
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