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The problem I forgot to mention is that I'm at my parent's house (I live in an apartment complex and am not allowed to do any car work in the parking lot) so I kind of need a solution within the next hour or two. Due to COVID I can't ask them to do any shopping for me so I'm basically stuck either leaving the old filter and just refilling the oil or trying to stabbing the old filter out.
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Feb 27, 2021 20:45
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Just add oil until you can get the filter off proper. It's not going to kill the engine. I personally wouldn't stab a filter off unless I could get clear access to the side of it.
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Feb 27, 2021 20:55
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Removed all the blue junk off the battery and terminal today: Used baking soda, water and a toothbrush. After about ten minutes I realized the positive terminal could easily be completely disassembled and that made things a lot easier. Won't really be able to test it for a few days to check if I get the alternator noise again.
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Feb 27, 2021 22:15
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Motronic posted:Perhaps don't have strong opinions on the topic then? Because everyone's talking about performance exhaust. For added performance. whoa just take it easy man
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Feb 28, 2021 04:39
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lets be real, very few cars get much benefit from performance exhaust, even with light engine mods. we do it cause we like the vroomvrooms
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Feb 28, 2021 07:52
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I got my car's exhaust because my autocross class allows it I got a nice 30 hp or so out of it. But hilariously the Street Touring class is specifically designed to accommodate people who have lightly modified cars making it so that I made my car meet a racing class that's based on the most common street mods who, in turn, modify their cars that way "because racecar".
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Feb 28, 2021 16:01
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I want the exact opposite of the vroom vrooms, I want my exhaust to be as quiet and/or OEM-note as possible. I may or may not have an unhealthy obsession with sleepers.
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Mar 1, 2021 04:20
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First big problem I've had in several months. 1993 Legacy Wagon NA, EJ22. For a few days prior to this, I've had some hesitation right around 2200rpm when accelerating, and it would start and idle rough for about 15 seconds but then smooth out. Figured it was probably fuel filter, since I have no idea when it was last changed. Went out today to start it and head over to O'Reilly for one and the thing would spin and spin and occasionally fire, but wouldn't stay running for more than a few seconds, and then it just sorta poo poo out completely to where it just spun and fired rarely. So I took the bus to the store and picked up a filter and headed back. After much loving around I finally got it replaced (I legitimately think it might have been the original filter), hooked everything back up, and it still spins and fires occasionally but won't start. I know it's not the fuel pump, as I heard that run when I hooked everything back up. I also checked the TPS, and that's within spec. The plug wires and plugs were new (or new-ish) when I bought it last May. I checked the coil and it seems to be MOSTLY within spec according to the Haynes manual*. CEL isn't on, though I haven't run the actual code check procedure yet (pre-OBD-II, so all I get is flash codes), so I don't actually know if it's getting a misfire code/injector problem to the ECU. I tried the "leave the battery disconnected for 45 minutes" reset and that didn't seem to make a difference either. The battery itself seems to be fine, and I've checked every ground I can find. I've cleaned every sensor plug I've been able to reach with contact cleaner. I'm thinking it's either some imperceptible problem with the coil (it's obviously the original part, with a stock Subaru P/N sticker and old-school logo on it), or the ignitor control. Trying to figure out my next diagnosis step. Financially things are tight and I don't want to replace both if only one is bad, and the controller especially ain't cheap. What would y'all think would be the best course of action at this point? It's been a pretty good runner with only minor repairs. Other things I've changed since getting it: Evaporator purge solenoid Knock sensor Alternator Air filter PCV valve Fuel filter *Manual says primary side resistance should be .75 ohms max and it reads 1.5 ohm, but I don't know if that's down to the meter, or if it's still actually within operable range due to a bunch of conflicting info I'm finding through Google. Secondary side resistance is within spec.
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Mar 2, 2021 00:31
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Sounds kinda like the problem we had with one of our teams rallycross cars after we swapped a JDM engine into it. Used the long block but kept the same intake manifold, had a rough start up and idle and hesitation at around 3000 RPM. Turned out to be an airflow issue, once we cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor and tracked down a leaky vacuum hose, everything was golden. I also had a similar issue on my 2012 civic way back. No symptoms other than hesitation around the same RPM region when I stomped on the gas. Like serious hanging in the rev climb. Turned out the intake tube right before the throttle body had a substantial tear, and when replaced the issue was gone. I'd say clean the throttle body and MAF sensor, and see if you have any air leaks anywhere else
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Mar 2, 2021 02:25
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Does anybody have their moon roof shade slide open by itself? 
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Mar 2, 2021 04:05
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SwissArmyDruid posted:I want the exact opposite of the vroom vrooms, I want my exhaust to be as quiet and/or OEM-note as possible.
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Mar 2, 2021 05:24
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I bought a $100 used non-cat downpipe and brought the old catted one to the metal man and he gave me $1200. Thats my catalyst story, thanks for reading.
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Mar 2, 2021 17:32
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Charles posted:Does anybody have their moon roof shade slide open by itself? On a good pull, yes!
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Mar 2, 2021 17:49
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Update: I popped the intake pipe off both ends then replaced it, jiggled every vacuum hose I could find, unplugged every connector I could (except injectors), and then cranked on it for a good 30 seconds and it finally, begrudgingly, fired up and idled, albeit it VERY rich. After it surged up to about 2500rpm, it dropped back down to normal idle speed and eventually came out the rough idle (or at least, no more rough than previously, perhaps a little better.) Took it for about a 4-mile round-trip drive and it seems alright now. I think it's idling better now, but that might just be confirmation bias. Haven't had a chance to get a good on-ramp/highway pull yet. So what I'm thinking is that my filter was indeed poo poo, but not SUPER poo poo, but when I installed the new one it took longer than I was expecting for the fuel to get up to totally pressurize the rails or something, or there was air in the line, and ECM kept trying to run it more and more rich until I finally just cranked on it enough for it to fire, and then it sorted itself out. Regardless, this summer's project was going to be replacing all the vacuum and PCV hoses I can, and I'll add fuel hoses and cleaning the MAF and throttle body to the list. I loving hate not having a garage in Chicago.
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Mar 2, 2021 20:43
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SwissArmyDruid posted:I want the exact opposite of the vroom vrooms, I want my exhaust to be as quiet and/or OEM-note as possible. thats not the opposite, thats just vroomvrooms
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Mar 2, 2021 20:47
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i own every Bionicle posted:On a good pull, yes! Whenever I get back in the car the shade is slid open a bit. There must be some thermal contraction or something happening. I have to set up a camera to figure out what's happening 
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Mar 2, 2021 20:48
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:Sounds kinda like the problem we had with one of our teams rallycross cars after we swapped a JDM engine into it. Used the long block but kept the same intake manifold, had a rough start up and idle and hesitation at around 3000 RPM. Turned out to be an airflow issue, once we cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor and tracked down a leaky vacuum hose, everything was golden. when you say clean them, its basically just carb cleaner and a toothbrush, right? i still have to change out spark plugs which i'm sure isn't helping how mine runs but i dont doubt there's plenty of junk built up in the intake
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Mar 2, 2021 21:17
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Charles posted:Whenever I get back in the car the shade is slid open a bit. There must be some thermal contraction or something happening. I have to set up a camera to figure out what's happening It could be an air pressure spike from closing the door. I had an old Saturn and the sunroof would pop up a half inch when you slammed the door hard enough. Maybe try closing the door gently, or if you can, leave the window open?
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Mar 4, 2021 00:45
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 Is a 27 year old car with no parts availability sufficiently AI for this thread?
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Mar 4, 2021 18:22
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Mar 4, 2021 18:43
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I'm at the mechanic right now, I just bought it last week and the Subie Doctor in Denver was booked out a week. I think it needs a timing belt judging by the maintenance records it came with, it drives decently but there's a flashing CEL when you're off the throttle so I didn't want to drive it more than necessary. I've wanted one of these since I was 17 or so, and happened to come across someone selling one on Facebook. I got a good deal because of the mechanical work it's going to need. My eventual goal is kind of a restomod thing, keep it as stock externally as possible, keep the engine the same, probably upgrade the brakes because I live in the mountains and brake fade is a scary thing up there. Once the struts need replacing I'd like to find some way to mount more modern struts but maintain the comfort focus, the coilovers that exist seem to all be for people that want to slam it and track it, which I have no desire to do. If and when the transmission goes I'd like to pay a pro to do a manual swap, it's a well established thing to do on these but I want it done right. I love these things as a piece of mechanical art, so this is a long term project I'm taking on.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:15
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Looks great. Always wanted to play with one of those.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:22
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Man I love those things. One of my dream projects is to build one with a 6 speed and build up the motor, supposedly they are extremely strong and forged EJ pistons drop right in. Congrats on the purchase!
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Mar 4, 2021 19:23
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm at the mechanic right now, I just bought it last week and the Subie Doctor in Denver was booked out a week. I think it needs a timing belt judging by the maintenance records it came with, it drives decently but there's a flashing CEL when you're off the throttle so I didn't want to drive it more than necessary. I've wanted one of these since I was 17 or so, and happened to come across someone selling one on Facebook. I got a good deal because of the mechanical work it's going to need. If you don't object to the idea of driving down to the Springs, call TGA Performance. Off of Academy south of Fountain blvd. They did my engine swap and clutch, kept me well updated, made sure to ask me before doing anything. Downside is obviously that they're in the Springs, but they do good work.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:40
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
I couldn't even recognize it as a Subaru! Never seen that in my life! It looks like a last ditch muscle car effort by Saturn. (Wasn't Saturn's last car actually kinda cool?)
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Mar 4, 2021 19:44
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Once the struts need replacing I'd like to find some way to mount more modern struts but maintain the comfort focus, the coilovers that exist seem to all be for people that want to slam it and track it, which I have no desire to do. Not necessarily. There's a little more more work involved in a comfort build for coilovers but it's certainly not outside it's range. You just need the right valving and spring combo. Obviously lowering it will reduce travel and require a harder spring, but you can make a Bilstein set up, for example, just as cushy. You just have to make sure your springs are soft and you're valving is right. Not hard enough to be jarring, not soft enough to bob down the road. I'd imagine since the car was an attempt into an upscale market segment, the factory spring rates will do. A call to Bilstein (or other quality shock manufacturer) and they'll know what you need by the time you hang up.
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Mar 4, 2021 19:49
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What I mean is that all of the coilovers I can find for the SVX are the $800 rebranded Taiwanese coilovers that generally aren't going to be as comfort-focused. Apparently the top mount is a different size/shape than the Impreza, Forester, or Legacy. I'll look at TGA in the Springs then, what kind of swap did they do for you? E: to clarify, the car is at the Subie Doctor right now, I just had to wait a week to get in.
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Mar 4, 2021 21:50
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Oh, thought it was still setting out. TGA just swapped an FB25 for my old FB25. Previous owner of my car basically let the seals go to poo poo and it was cheaper to swap engines than rebuild it. Clutch, used engine (from a newer year), labor and fluids was $4200. Engine was $1600, clutch/flywheel was $700 ('13 outback oem flywheels are triple price for no reason I can tell), so labor and fluids wound up being around $1900, which isn't exactly terrible. My experience being good with them is based around their constant updates. poo poo took time because I have a manual trans and no one wanted to ship an engine because my VIN didn't indicate an auto trans. But they got an engine with 56k miles on it and it runs great. If I had the money, I'd ask them to swap in an EZ36 and dick around with the ECM to convince it a manual is an automatic. They do lots of custom work, it's owned/run by an army veteran too. Swaps, tunes, simple bullshit work, they'll do it.
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Mar 4, 2021 22:20
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Subie-goons, please enlighten me regarding engines. I vaguely remember horror stories regarding the EJ25? Is that right? Is the EJ20 - in, say, a 2010 Impreza manual - a time bomb? Shopping for a car, a 2010 Impreza manual would satisfy our requirements (age, budget, transmission, hatchback) if it came in a colour other than boring white/silver/grey/black (too many cars in Australia are painted boringness for our Canadian tastes) and there's one on a local dealership's lot. Worth a test-drive, or just avoid EJ20?
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Mar 5, 2021 02:12
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
Oh heeeeello, do tell more ExecuDork posted:Subie-goons, please enlighten me regarding engines. I vaguely remember horror stories regarding the EJ25? Is that right? Is the EJ20 - in, say, a 2010 Impreza manual - a time bomb? The EJ25 is not the horror story that people who put in the worng fuel or do *StAgE 1 SiCkMoDs* say it is. Perfectly servicable and quite decent. Now the EJ20 has an Internet Reputation for being one of the more bulletproof motors going and in that case, yeah it's pretty much on the money. There is no reason to overlook a car with a EJ20.
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Mar 5, 2021 02:20
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Got word from the shop right before they closed today, the intermittent CEL is from a throttle position sensor (apparently the EG33 has two throttles) and a knock sensor. They don't think it's actually knocking, which is obviously good, they think it's just a bad sensor. Both of those could probably explain the uneven idle and odd dip in the powerband right after takeoff. They're going to look at it more tomorrow, the PS pump is also making a lot of noise from what they said, I expect there will be a decent amount of stuff on the to-do list. If it does turn out that the timing belt and all of the engine parts are good and all it needed was some new sensors I'm probably going to go back and pay the people I bought it from more, because I'd feel really guilty if that's all it was and I predicted doom and gloom. Long story version: I found this car on facebook, the seller's father bought it off the lot new and gave it to the seller's teenage daughter last year. Daughter goes off to college, needs something more reliable and economical and normal. The seller posted on a SVX group asking for advice on selling it, I message her saying "Hey, here's my advice, I might be interested, but if not good luck and I hope it gets to someone that will take care of it." A week or two later I go down and check it out, it's making what sounds like a cam bearing noise (I find out later it doesn't have those) and has the flashing CEL. My shade tree mechanic friend and I tell her what we saw/heard, that it would require pulling the engine to fix, and that I'm not up for doing that kind of work. That evening I send her a message with a couple suggestions of what else she could try on the chance that I'm wrong, she says she's going to just see what a dealership will give her for it. I tell her to let me know what they offer and depending on what it is I might match it and roll the dice on being able to get it fixed. In the morning she tells me that a couple dealerships offered her $500 but due to the conversations we'd had about the car and the emotional significance of cars and intrinsic vs extrinsic value of items she offers it to me for $250. So obviously I agree, expecting probably a couple thousand in repairs to make it road-safe. If it ends up being much cheaper than that, you can see why my conscience tells me I need to give them more money.
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Mar 5, 2021 03:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:They don't think it's actually knocking, which is obviously good, they think it's just a bad sensor. If it's anything like the one on the EJs, it's almost guaranteed to be an old sensor. I replaced the one in my Legacy right after I got it; the original was cracked in three(!) places. It was like a $20 part (if that) and took about 20 minutes to replace, most of which was taken up by my trying to line the mounting bolt back up because it's in an awkward place.
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Mar 5, 2021 05:34
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Yeah I had to replace it at least once on my Forester, seems like a common issue of this era.
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Mar 5, 2021 05:41
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I've always kind of wanted one of those. And do wonder what it takes to just swap like an impreza control arm, upright, and strut in there. Knock sensors go like this btw  Although it could be different on the eg33. Do they have two?
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Mar 5, 2021 06:27
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TBH I don't know how many they have. I should probably get a service manual for this thing even though I plan on having a mechanic do most of it. There was a guy that was doing an EJ25 swap of a scrap SVX that put Impreza struts on his but he looks like he cut and welded the strut mount area on the engine bay. The bolts where it mounts at the bottom looks identical between the Impreza and SVX, although I haven't taken calipers to it or anything. The front control arm seems way different from the looks of it, the frame mounting points are both off-center from the ball joint mount whereas the Impreza's has one directly in line. Rear, I don't know, looks like lateral links but that means I don't have any obvious geometry to go off of. Assuming it's possible to remove top plates from coilovers I feel like the ideal solution for the suspension (albeit expensive) is to fab a top plate that fits the bolt pattern of the SVX, and shove some high-end Impreza coilovers in there with the replacement top plate. Ride height might be an issue, I don't know what the ride heights are like between the SVX and WRX/STi off the top of my head.
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Mar 5, 2021 07:43
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The EJ25 is not the horror story that people who put in the worng fuel or do *StAgE 1 SiCkMoDs* say it is. Perfectly servicable and quite decent. Awesomeness, thank you. We were walking around today and saw a Forrester in that good shade of blue Subaru likes to put on some of their cars, and the sticker on the back said 2.5X - turbo or no? And my wife liked it, without knowing anything about that individual car (age, transmission, kilometres), and our little chat expanded the search options considerably. Which doesn't really help me narrow my search enough to settle on a small number of cars to test-drive and then buy one. But I think she's getting more tired of our carlessness, more quickly than I am. Maybe I'll end up joining club Subaru in the end, after years of avoiding them (because everybody I knew at one point had one I just want to be a bit different ok)
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Mar 5, 2021 09:32
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EJ25 is fine. Just do your services and change the dang timing belt on schedule
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Mar 5, 2021 10:51
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2.5X is a model package. It's like a notch above base model for Forester. So no, no turbo.
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Mar 5, 2021 14:37
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Assuming it's possible to remove top plates from coilovers I feel like the ideal solution for the suspension (albeit expensive) is to fab a top plate that fits the bolt pattern of the SVX, and shove some high-end Impreza coilovers in there with the replacement top plate. Ride height might be an issue, I don't know what the ride heights are like between the SVX and WRX/STi off the top of my head. I suspect you could cut the original struts open, and do Koni Yellow inserts. Works great on the Impreza, and even if the tube diameter is different between the Impreza and SVX, there's gonna be some Koni application that fits it. Then you can have some decent damping, although with no ride height control, if that's why you're going after coilovers...
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Mar 5, 2021 18:05
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I think some people did do Koni Yellow inserts with Ground Control springs before, IIRC, not sure if those springs are for lowering or what because holy gently caress I've got like 20 years of internet to dig through on working on this thing and have to figure out what information is obsolete now. There are coilovers by a brand called Gecko and ones by a brand called DGR now although they may be the same thing with different paint jobs, I can't quite tell. I've never had coilovers so maybe I'm putting too much focus on them but the high end ones seem to offer a lot of adjustments in terms of alignment and compression/rebound characteristics which makes me feel like they would be the best option for getting the ride just right. And since high-end ones tend to be rebuildable that means I don't have to worry about the components I'm using suddenly becoming NLA when it's time to replace them, which seem to me like a very real concern on something this old and niche. Comedy option: XT6 throwback suspension, air suspension that goes from a 1-2" drop to a massive lift.
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Mar 5, 2021 19:49
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