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Ok well it passed emissions yesterday so 
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Feb 27, 2021 23:35
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P0171 and similar codes are quite often caused by a few things other than that. I've had them caused by exhaust manifold cracks, bad o2 sensors, bad coil packs that weren't triggering a misfire code for some reason, intake manifold leaks, bad TPS... The list goes on. 0170 through 0174 are essentially catch-alls the ECU will throw at you if it can't get the exhaust to read stoich and doesn't have anything specific to blame it on that it can see. If you shotgun parts based on internet diagnosis from those codes it'll be expensive and frustrating, you really need to get a better idea of what's happening by monitoring symptoms and live sensor data to see what's out of whack that the ECU isn't able to figure out.
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Feb 27, 2021 23:36
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Croatoan posted:Ok well it passed emissions yesterday so What state is this? Because that doesn't make a lot of sense. Unless I suppose it's possible you had some codes sticking around - both of those probably don't reset after being set like some others will. So this could have been a bad fuel event or similar. If that's the case you didn't need to replace the gas cap. Again, and to my point: you can't diagnose things with just DTCs. I'm only providing likely possibilities of where to look. And both of your codes are solidly "not the gas cap". That's one thing that you can be certain of from a code: what it's not. So in the end, please don't tell people to replace their gas cap for unrelated DTCs, even if it's only $16.
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Feb 27, 2021 23:39
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I live in Georgia. Also I wasn't telling people to replace their gas cap, I was sharing what I thought was a weird "fix" for my car. Since the issue was resolved enough that the codes were no longer popping up.
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Feb 27, 2021 23:50
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Croatoan posted:I live in Georgia. Also I wasn't telling people to replace their gas cap, I was sharing what I thought was a weird "fix" for my car. Since the issue was resolved enough that the codes were no longer popping up. In GA after 2001 you can have one I/M unset. 2 before. And the point is: that wasn't the fix or a fix. The fix was clearing the DTCs and driving around for long enough that a sufficient number of I/M monitors reset. It had absolutely nothing to do with the gas cap. Since we're trying to teach people stuff here it's important to address things like that. You very well can still have an intermittent issue that can cause one of both of those DTCs. But sure, resetting and seeing if you can get them set is absolutely the best way to start. You could get lucky, like you did.
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Feb 27, 2021 23:56
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I've definitely passed Mass state emissions inspection knowing I had an existing evap leak simply by clearing the codes and keeping the gas tank outside the range where the ECU will run the evap monitor code until all the other monitors were passed and then getting it inspected before it managed to set the evap codes again. Motronic is right on this. The code came back a while later and I didn't care. It was a rusty Subaru, evap codes are just a fact of life on those unless you do heroic amounts of work on a vehicle that will be in the crusher within 2 or 3 years anyways.
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Feb 28, 2021 00:37
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kastein posted:I've definitely passed Mass state emissions inspection knowing I had an existing evap leak simply by clearing the codes and keeping the gas tank outside the range where the ECU will run the evap monitor code until all the other monitors were passed and then getting it inspected before it managed to set the evap codes again. Motronic is right on this. I keep my tank IN RANGE of evap to make sure I get get it set before SAI fails 
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Feb 28, 2021 01:24
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I'm not arguing with you. The codes may very well pop back up. This is the article I was referring to is all. https://practicalmechanic.com/2020/03/14/how-to-fix-a-p0420-error-code-on-a-toyota-corolla/ Practical Mechanic Dot Com posted:Reason 3: Loose or Bad Gas Cap What I'm wondering now is I already bought a downstream O2 sensor and an intake manifold gasket. Since the code hasn't popped up but it's only been one week, I planned on returning the O2 sensor but maybe I should hold onto it instead of paying a 15% restocking fee.
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Feb 28, 2021 03:37
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Just bought a 2018 Tundra with the 5.7L V8 and 4x4 (my first 4x4 ever!) I heard, from the dealership, I'm supposed to do 10 miles a month in 4 Hi in order to keep the differential lubricated? If not, it could void the warranty. It sounds like nonsense but I don't know any better. I do know to only use 4x4 when I need it, and not to goof around with it on. Anything I can learn about new 4x4 owner/operator relationships would be appreciated.
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Feb 28, 2021 03:49
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Offroad minivan update Progress: - Rear engine mount and new CV shaft are in. Unlike the epic struggle to get it out, when going back in it slid home and locked just on its own inertia. Installation is reverse of removal, indeed. - Exhaust is back in place with new gaskets, studs, and nuts. Also a ton of anti-seize. - Transmission is draining right now. Toyota says you don't need to change it (ever?) but the stuff coming out looks nasty. Reverse progress: I didn't think to disconnect the battery when I embarked on this adventure, so it's dead now. But that's ok, this is an excellent chance to try my homebrew emergency jump start device: a Milwaukee M18 to Anderson Powerpole adapter. It connects my big 12Ah tool battery straight to the car battery with a 40A inline fuse. I haven't tried starting the engine yet, but it sure powers the interior lights and door locks well, ha ha. It probably can't start the car by itself, but it might give a mostly-dead battery enough of a boost to get the engine running. To do: Install new front struts. My spring compressor is poo poo so I had a shop assembled them. Now I just need to bolt them in. Go through my parts bucket and see if any of the "extra" parts I have leftover look important. If so, try to figure out where they go.
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Feb 28, 2021 03:52
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lite_sleepr posted:Just bought a 2018 Tundra with the 5.7L V8 and 4x4 (my first 4x4 ever!) Yeah ah, I just got my first decent truck and read the same thing. Engage 4wd once a month. Also use low range and your diff lock to keep them working. My diff lock doesn't work, and I think it's because the internal grease hardened or something over the months the last guy had it. Also grease your zerks when you chasing your oil, there's probably about 8 of them up and down the driveshafts. This is all stuff I've read but seems to be universally accepted.
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Feb 28, 2021 04:06
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I just have 4 Hi and 4 Lo. When I use it once a month should it be Lo, or does it not matter? What is 'chasing' oil, did you mean changing? I don't have a low pressure grease gun, but I guess I can get one. ALthough I get dealership oil changes 4 lyfe.
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Feb 28, 2021 04:13
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kastein posted:I've definitely passed Mass state emissions inspection knowing I had an existing evap leak simply by clearing the codes and keeping the gas tank outside the range where the ECU will run the evap monitor code until all the other monitors were passed and then getting it inspected before it managed to set the evap codes again. Motronic is right on this. I may end up doing this with my TJ for this exact reason. Though at the moment it says the evap test is complete, and the CEL is out, but the P0456 is still there. lite_sleepr posted:Just bought a 2018 Tundra with the 5.7L V8 and 4x4 (my first 4x4 ever!) Unless Toyota is doing something unusual with their 4WD system involving axle disconnects or selectable hubs, this is bullshit. On the majority of modern truck 4WD systems, the front wheels are permanently connected to the front differential, which is permanently connected to the front driveshaft. When in 2HI, your front driveshaft is allowed to spin independently of the rear driveshaft - which it will do because it's getting driven by the front wheels. There's nothing that will spin in 4HI that isn't already spinning in 2HI. The only difference is that in 4HI, the front shaft is locked to the rear shaft so that some power can actually be sent to the front wheels, which shouldn't ever be done on dry pavement. If Toyota actually is disconnecting the front wheels when in 2HI, then everything above is wrong other than not engaging 4WD on dry pavement.
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Feb 28, 2021 05:32
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lite_sleepr posted:I just have 4 Hi and 4 Lo. When I use it once a month should it be Lo, or does it not matter? Yeah chasing=changing. Do not chase the oil. It's a slippery slope. Also calculus is probably right. I'm not sure how important it is to periodically exercise all the systems, but i don't see the harm and its probably a good way to check things are working as designed instead of finding out shits hosed when you're in a ditch.
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Feb 28, 2021 05:50
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What's the consensus on locking lug nuts? We've had a few cars just outside of our neighborhood have all four wheels stolen in the last couple days so my wife would like to better protect out cars.
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Feb 28, 2021 22:37
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two_beer_bishes posted:What's the consensus on locking lug nuts? We've had a few cars just outside of our neighborhood have all four wheels stolen in the last couple days so my wife would like to better protect out cars. If it makes you feel better, go for it, but in reality, they only make it slightly harder for your poo poo to get jacked. They *may* be enough of a deterrent to make the jackers go somewhere else, but if they really want your wheels, they'll get them.
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Feb 28, 2021 23:02
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I like them, but agree with the above. Make sure you have a means to access the key when driving otherwise youll find yourself getting towed because you cant change a flat.
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Feb 28, 2021 23:59
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My car came with locking lugs and they were only ever a hassle. After a decade of watching the one single key get just a little bit more rounded off every time I swapped tires, I replaced them with normal ones for my own sanity. Big asterisk that I live somewhere people aren't actively stealing wheels/tires, though, I'm sure they made a lot more sense when the car was sold in LA in 1989 Fitment test successful: 
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Mar 1, 2021 01:08
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Thanks guys, that's pretty much what I figured.
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Mar 1, 2021 01:23
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Deteriorata posted:Track misalignment or mismatched springs. If the springs aren't pulling with the same force, it's going to kick to the side like that. Also if they don't have identical setups they'll pull to one side. I tried moving one spring way down a bit, even with the spring completely sagging with the door up, that side of the door still winds up higher. I can also see where the track has been replaced AND the door opener track has been moved over, and there's snapped off bolts where a wind-up spring would be. A lot of sheetrock in the garage has been replaced too, with shitloads of patches and graffiti painted over. Safe to say someone seriously hosed up this garage at some point. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Mar 1, 2021 |
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Mar 1, 2021 02:09
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https://youtu.be/mme3_C1wlKM My 2006 Mazda 3 has been making this ticking noise when I start it up, otherwise acting completely normal, no change in power, RPM, no engine codes, etc. Does this sound like anything to anyone? The motor mounts don't seem to have ever been changed, could it be from shot motor mounts?
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Mar 1, 2021 02:43
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That sounds like a belt. Dumb quesiton but how old are your belts? Maybe try some stop squeal/squeak on your timing belt.
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Mar 1, 2021 03:55
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When was the last time you checked or changed the oil? Valve train sounds a little loud...though it could be characteristic of that engine.
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Mar 1, 2021 04:38
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Offroad minivan update I drove it around. It feels weird, higher up and much stiffer suspension. My oversize tires rub a LOT more when navigating the parking lot or doing a u-turn. I will have to investigate this in the morning. Might need to adjust the headlights because I'm pretty sure the front is higher than the back now (I put heavier springs on the front only). Tomorrow I need to reinstall the skid plates, do a more in-depth test drive, then get an alignment. I'll also get some pics and post before/after ride height numbers. Milwaukee M18 jumpstart After 2 weeks of working on the van, leaving the door open, etc, the the van battery was pretty dead. It could light up the dash and click the starter contactor, but made zero pretense of turning the engine over. When I tried to start it I got furious clicking noises and nothing else. So I plugged in my M18 12Ah tool battery. Yeah, that's right: + to +, and - to -, with a 40A inline fuse. Very simple. If you try to start the engine with the tool battery connected, it will immediately blow the 40A fuse (obvious in retrospect). But if you leave the tool battery connected for a minute or two, it'll put enough of a surface charge on the van battery that you can disconnect the tool battery and the van will start right up. You may need to plug/unplug the tool battery every 30s to give the wires time to cool since my M18 adapter was wired up with 12awg. It's probably pushing 30A+ when it is connected. You know that Star Trek episode where they jury rigged a plasma converter to power up a disabled shuttlecraft using a phaser as a power source? That's what this is, and it's hilarious that it works so well. Warning: Dumping 20V@30A straight into your car's electrical system might blow up a bunch of stuff. Probably not, since car electronics should be designed to handle worse faults. But if you fry your fancy new car doing this, everyone will laugh at you. This is something I'd do to my 20 year old van if I had a dead battery out in the wilderness. I tried it this one time at home to see if it would work, but I never plan to do it again except in an emergency.
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Mar 1, 2021 05:19
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DildenAnders posted:https://youtu.be/mme3_C1wlKM I'm not a mechanic but it kinda sounds like the lifters are sticking? This is a seafoam video I looked at and it sounds pretty similar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agAWXnT4-EQ&t=72s
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Mar 1, 2021 06:13
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PainterofCrap posted:When was the last time you checked or changed the oil? Valve train sounds a little loud...though it could be characteristic of that engine. It's not characteristic of the 2.3L so I'm guessing it is not of the 2.0L. It doesn't have hydraulic lifters like the old motors that were pretty easy to get ticking, either.
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Mar 1, 2021 07:05
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Hey guys, thanks for all the help. That video was taken during the first startup after an oil change, as the engine was heating up, so the oil was definitely very cold, but not low. I definitely heard the noise for a bit before then though. My mechanic is booked until Saturday, and I'm not savvy enough to go ripping out all the accessories on my own. Is driving on ticking lifters for a week likely to cause any long-term damage? And to answer a previous question about the belts, I'm 90% sure that this car has a timing chain (because it's a VVT?) and not a belt, while one of the serpentine or accesory belts were definitely making some noise before and almost definitely need to be replaced. I'll probably take another video tomorrow too after a drive to see how it sounds warmed up and with the oil circuated. Once again thanks for the help!
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Mar 1, 2021 08:01
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There's a butterfly valve in the intake manifold on those that can make a noise like that if the solenoid gets sticky. I think it's a pretty easy fix and any mechanic familiar with it should be able to sort it out for you. And it absolutely won't do any long term damage. Does it sound more like it's coming from the intake side as opposed to the middle of the valve cover?
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Mar 1, 2021 08:04
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lite_sleepr posted:Maybe try some stop squeal/squeak on your timing belt. Uh, no, DO NOT EVER put anything on a timing belt unless you like destroying engines.
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Mar 1, 2021 14:00
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99 Ranger 4cyl. Is there any reason the engine would be a little harder start when it's warmed up? I was running errands yesterday, on the cold start it was fine, but when I went to start it when it was warm it wouldn't catch until the second or third turn of the key. I just had a fuel filter replaced because if that matters at all.
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Mar 1, 2021 14:19
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Could it be the engine getting heat soaked/vapor locked? I know some of the 4.0l Cherokee's had that problem, don't know if 4 cyl Rangers do.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:47
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DildenAnders posted:Could it be the engine getting heat soaked/vapor locked? I know some of the 4.0l Cherokee's had that problem, don't know if 4 cyl Rangers do.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:41
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Battery question on my 2010 Toyota Rav4 v6 It snowed for the past month in NYC so all the parking restrictions were suspended. I kept thinking I was going to have to move my car soon anyway, so like an idiot, I never started it. Tried to start the other day and the battery was dead. Got a jump and moved it across the street, idled for 20 minutes or so. Battery dead again the next morning. Got another jump and drove around for about 40 minutes, including 15-20 on a highway. Turned the car off to fill up gas and it started up without a problem. Parked at home and about 4 days later (today) battery is completely dead again. The cleanliness of the battery posts/connections has been gross for awhile, so I'm about to go outside and pull the battery, clean the posts and connections, and charge the battery overnight on my 15amp/2amp charger. But.... the battery is probably toast right? Seems like 40 minutes of driving should've been plenty. I can't imagine the dirty posts were enough to keep it from charging properly after it's been fine for so long.
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Mar 2, 2021 01:04
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Yep, sounds like it's toast. Every time a car battery gets drained to zero, it does a certain amount of permanent damage to the cells. You can try charging it overnight if it's not a huge hassle, but don't get your hopes up.
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Mar 2, 2021 01:08
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How many years old is the battery? It's probably dead, especially if it's more than like 3-5ish years old, and if it's original there's almost no chance it's not dead.
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Mar 2, 2021 01:13
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Update on the Mazda, took another video of it on a cold start, the clicking seemed to go away https://youtu.be/vRCbMbckzI8 But then when I started it up after when it was all warmed it was definitely back again https://youtu.be/MVu0iEDfK_M I know it's a bit subjective, but if this is an issue with the lifters, would it be worth getting it fixed or just driving the car into the ground? I spent $2k on it last summer, and though I like it a lot I definitely don't want to get caught in the used car money pit. Haven't had any other issues with it yet (aside from its battery dying on me while I was driving once a while ago) but I haven't really owned the car very long, there's definitely something up with the suspension, and the (thankfully manual) transmission feels close to needing a rebuild.
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Mar 2, 2021 01:21
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ryanrs posted:Yep, sounds like it's toast. Every time a car battery gets drained to zero, it does a certain amount of permanent damage to the cells. You can try charging it overnight if it's not a huge hassle, but don't get your hopes up. kastein posted:How many years old is the battery? It's probably dead, especially if it's more than like 3-5ish years old, and if it's original there's almost no chance it's not dead. It's pretty old, so probably dead. Is there any easy way to tell other than charging it up, putting it back in the vehicle, and trying to start it up again? Edit: and since I'm gonna be in the market.... what's a good battery brand?
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Mar 2, 2021 01:27
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Hello goons, I need thoughts, advice, commiseration, etc. I am NOT a car person so I apologize in advance for saying stupid things or getting things wrong. Considering impulsively trading in my car and getting a replacement. It is a 2016 Civic EX-T with 64k miles. My AC doesn't work... There's been a service bulletin on 2016-2018 civics saying that the AC condenser was poorly manufactured and may leak and will be replaced at Honda's expense if there's a problem. However when I took my car in for inspection, they told me my condenser is leaking, because, very surprisingly, a "front impact" to my front bumper pushed the intercooler into the condenser and caused it to start leaking, not their manufacturing defect. They also want me to replace the compressor, clutch, and coil for an expense of $1,700. Here is the full text: we inspected the A/C condenser, is not leaking as described by the warranty extension. The front of the front bumper has been hit and this caused visible damage to the turbos intercooler and then this hit the condenser. Both should be replaced but not leaking at this time. $878 1 day to order 1 day to fix The A/C filter is related to the A/C compressor is leaking, is all wet for compressor oil and refrigerant and nw dirt and dust clinging to it, the compressor, clutch and coil all need to be replaced and then recharged and leak inspect, all special order, $1710 I bought the car used from a dealer at 33k miles and the ac has never worked well but has gone from sorta functional to non-existent. So, I need to fork over $878 to get the condenser and intercooler replaced, and $1700 for the compressor/clutch/coil. However... it makes me wonder if this won't just happen again in 1-2 years and they'll blame it on a "front impact" or "road damage." There are hundreds if not thousands of posts online about this issue and I can't see a light at the end of the tunnel if I want working AC. I could just say forget about AC, but they're saying my intercooler is dented and could start leaking with another impact. Were about to drive 3,000 miles across the country for a move and Im considering trading this thing in for ~$9,500 and buying something in the $16,000 price range. Do the goon thing and ask me some harsh questions and tell me what Im doing wrong because this situation seems like bullshit. Cretin90 fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 03:20
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Cretin90 posted:Hello goons, I need thoughts, advice, commiseration, etc. I am NOT a car person so I apologize in advance for saying stupid things or getting things wrong. The fact that the AC has never really worked suggests that the previous owner ran into something and it wasn't repaired properly, as the dealer suggests. It sucks, but that's the risk when you buy a used car. It's usually a bad financial idea to do anything impulsively. If it's otherwise been OK, the car is probably fine. I can understand you being a bit leery of it at this point, though. Just don't crash into anything. A different car may just have a different set of problems, so you may not actually come out ahead. Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chances.
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Mar 2, 2021 03:55
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Cretin90 posted:
It probably happened before you bought the car. truavatar posted:It's pretty old, so probably dead. Is there any easy way to tell other than charging it up, putting it back in the vehicle, and trying to start it up again? I think this came up in the last page or two, but IIRC the consensus is get the best one you can buy that also has the best warranty that comes with it.
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Mar 2, 2021 03:56
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