AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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Krakkles: May 5, 2003

truavatar posted:

It's pretty old, so probably dead. Is there any easy way to tell other than charging it up, putting it back in the vehicle, and trying to start it up again?

Edit: and since I'm gonna be in the market.... what's a good battery brand?

You can get it tested at AutoZone, O'Reilly, or likely any other chain auto parts store.

Cretin90 posted:

Hello goons, I need thoughts, advice, commiseration, etc. I am NOT a car person so I apologize in advance for saying stupid things or getting things wrong.

Considering impulsively trading in my car and getting a replacement. It is a 2016 Civic EX-T with 64k miles. My AC doesn't work... There's been a service bulletin on 2016-2018 civics saying that the AC condenser was poorly manufactured and may leak and will be replaced at Honda's expense if there's a problem. However when I took my car in for inspection, they told me my condenser is leaking, because, very surprisingly, a "front impact" to my front bumper pushed the intercooler into the condenser and caused it to start leaking, not their manufacturing defect. They also want me to replace the compressor, clutch, and coil for an expense of $1,700.

Here is the full text: “we inspected the A/C condenser, is not leaking as described by the warranty extension. The front of the front bumper has been hit and this caused visible damage to the turbo’s intercooler and then this hit the condenser. Both should be replaced but not leaking at this time. $878 1 day to order 1 day to fix

The A/C filter is related to the A/C compressor is leaking, is all wet for compressor oil and refrigerant and nw dirt and dust clinging to it, the compressor, clutch and coil all need to be replaced and then recharged and leak inspect, all special order, $1710”

I bought the car used from a dealer at 33k miles and the ac has never worked well but has gone from sorta functional to non-existent.

So, I need to fork over $878 to get the condenser and intercooler replaced, and $1700 for the compressor/clutch/coil. However... it makes me wonder if this won't just happen again in 1-2 years and they'll blame it on a "front impact" or "road damage." There are hundreds if not thousands of posts online about this issue and I can't see a light at the end of the tunnel if I want working AC. I could just say forget about AC, but they're saying my intercooler is dented and could start leaking with another impact. We’re about to drive 3,000 miles across the country for a move and I’m considering trading this thing in for ~$9,500 and buying something in the $16,000 price range. Do the goon thing and ask me some harsh questions and tell me what I’m doing wrong because this situation seems like bullshit.

What they're saying is definitely possible, and recalls do usually have an exact definition of how the part(s) will fail. Without seeing the car, it's impossible to tell if this is right or wrong.

I would seek out a second opinion, see what it would cost to get it fixed right, so that the dented intercooler doesn't rebreak things.

The more basic question I would ask: Do you think the car was in some kind of collision? Did they explain why they thought it?

I wouldn't personally trade in a 5 year old, otherwise good car, for a repair related to damage done to the car, especially to the tune of $2k.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 04:03

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# ? May 14, 2024 15:54

Cretin90: Apr 10, 2006

Krakkles posted:

You can get it tested at AutoZone, O'Reilly, or likely any other chain auto parts store.
What they're saying is definitely possible, and recalls do usually have an exact definition of how the part(s) will fail. Without seeing the car, it's impossible to tell if this is right or wrong.

I would seek out a second opinion, see what it would cost to get it fixed right, so that the dented intercooler doesn't rebreak things.

The more basic question I would ask: Do you think the car was in some kind of collision? Did they explain why they thought it?

I wouldn't personally trade in a 5 year old, otherwise good car, for a repair related to damage done to the car, especially to the tune of $2k.

Thanks for your thoughts.

I�m not sure how to seek out another opinion - the other Honda dealer in town has lovely reviews, and the independent Honda repair shop won�t work on this AC system. Supposedly the R1234yf is too high pressure for them to work on without expensive specialized equipment. Guess I could go to the other dealer.

I�m confident that the Honda Dealer I talked to could fix this issue correctly for $2,500, but I�m concerned that the issue will resurface in 1-2 years and they�ll blame it on an impact again. There�s basically nothing between the road and the intercooler which leads to fairly frequent impacts. This might just be my suspicious nature though... lol.

I�m honestly not sure if it was in a front end collision. It wasn�t reported on the carfax when I got it. They cited some scuffing on the bumper as reasoning for thinking it was a collision, but I haven�t had a collision since buying it and was able to buff out the scuffing with my jacket sleeve. It�s DEFINITELY possible though, like a previous poster said, that this car got into a minor unreported collision before I bought it. I bought it from a jeep dealer so I wouldn�t be surprised if they noticed the AC wasn�t working due to a condenser leak and they just filled it up with refrigerant and didn�t mention it.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 04:13

truavatar: Mar 3, 2004; GIS Jedi

wesleywillis posted:

I think this came up in the last page or two, but IIRC the consensus is get the best one you can buy that also has the best warranty that comes with it.

Thanks, went back and read the discussion.

So, another question - there's a plastic piece that goes across the front of the engine compartment that covers one of the bolts I needed to remove to get the battery out. A bunch of the plastic clips/push-rivets holding it were broken (and I managed to break a couple more) and I don't even know what the part is called to look for the appropriate replacement clips.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 05:06

PainterofCrap: Oct 17, 2002; hey bebe

Fastener rivets, push rivets, little fuckers. They have a variety of names. Yes, they always break.

I have a drawer-full of them. If you're desperate, you pay like $4.00 for three of them at the auto stores.

To get a drawer-full, order online: https://www.amazon.com/UNIGT-Fasten...14659519&sr=8-5

I'll tell you this: Inspect your front end, top and especially bottom, and your inner wheel wells, and replace those little bastards whenever they're missing, because it's a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing all the tupperware. I have a number of relatives who seem to take an obscene pleasure in beaching their cars on christ knows what

"I hear a dragging noise. Might be the brakes"
"Look at the wheel."
"Oh. I can get a pair-"
"NOO DON'T CUT IT OFF NOOOO"
"-and cut it free! Now it's fine!"
:gonk:

# ? Mar 2, 2021 05:37

ryanrs: Jul 12, 2011

Hey, sometimes parts of your car just fall off and you have to leave them behind.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 06:57

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

Cretin90 posted:

Thanks for your thoughts.

I’m not sure how to seek out another opinion - the other Honda dealer in town has lovely reviews, and the independent Honda repair shop won’t work on this AC system. Supposedly the R1234yf is too high pressure for them to work on without expensive specialized equipment. Guess I could go to the other dealer.

I’m confident that the Honda Dealer I talked to could fix this issue correctly for $2,500, but I’m concerned that the issue will resurface in 1-2 years and they’ll blame it on an impact again. There’s basically nothing between the road and the intercooler which leads to fairly frequent impacts. This might just be my suspicious nature though... lol.

I’m honestly not sure if it was in a front end collision. It wasn’t reported on the carfax when I got it. They cited some scuffing on the bumper as reasoning for thinking it was a collision, but I haven’t had a collision since buying it and was able to buff out the scuffing with my jacket sleeve. It’s DEFINITELY possible though, like a previous poster said, that this car got into a minor unreported collision before I bought it. I bought it from a jeep dealer so I wouldn’t be surprised if they noticed the AC wasn’t working due to a condenser leak and they just filled it up with refrigerant and didn’t mention it.

Not being on Carfax doesn't mean poo poo, if they never made an insurance claim or went to a body shop that actually reports to Carfax then there's nothing Carfax could know.

The damage they're describing should be readily apparent by looking at the intercooler and condenser. Plastic bumpers are surprisingly good at returning to their original shape after a minor impact.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 07:08

Mr. Wiggles: Dec 1, 2003; We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.

ryanrs posted:

Hey, sometimes parts of your car just fall off and you have to leave them behind.

I remember once I was bombing down an dirt road in my old Sentra when I heard a bang and crash from under the car. I looked in the rearview mirror and saw my entire exhaust from the first joint after the header all the way to the tailpipe spinning in the sky in the cloud of dust.

I just kept driving.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 07:10

ryanrs: Jul 12, 2011

If that part was so important, the car would have stopped on its own.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 07:36

Uthor: Jul 9, 2006; Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Mr. Wiggles posted:

I remember once I was bombing down an dirt road in my old Sentra when I heard a bang and crash from under the car. I looked in the rearview mirror and saw my entire exhaust from the first joint after the header all the way to the tailpipe spinning in the sky in the cloud of dust.

I just kept driving.

I was walking to class in college when someone drove by with their exhaust dragging on the ground from the front end of the car and as they passed me, it snagged on the road, lifted the rear end of the car like it was pole vaulting, and snapped off.

They didn't stop.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 15:03

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

truavatar posted:

Edit: and since I'm gonna be in the market.... what's a good battery brand?

All batteries in the US are whiteboxed and made by a small set of manufacturers, I think the vast majority are either Johnson Controls or Exide. There might be a third brand in the mix. Basically, buy something in the right size and rating that fits your car that has a decent warranty.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 15:06

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Cretin90 posted:

Thanks for your thoughts.

I�m not sure how to seek out another opinion - the other Honda dealer in town has lovely reviews, and the independent Honda repair shop won�t work on this AC system. Supposedly the R1234yf is too high pressure for them to work on without expensive specialized equipment. Guess I could go to the other dealer.

I�m confident that the Honda Dealer I talked to could fix this issue correctly for $2,500, but I�m concerned that the issue will resurface in 1-2 years and they�ll blame it on an impact again. There�s basically nothing between the road and the intercooler which leads to fairly frequent impacts. This might just be my suspicious nature though... lol.

I�m honestly not sure if it was in a front end collision. It wasn�t reported on the carfax when I got it. They cited some scuffing on the bumper as reasoning for thinking it was a collision, but I haven�t had a collision since buying it and was able to buff out the scuffing with my jacket sleeve. It�s DEFINITELY possible though, like a previous poster said, that this car got into a minor unreported collision before I bought it. I bought it from a jeep dealer so I wouldn�t be surprised if they noticed the AC wasn�t working due to a condenser leak and they just filled it up with refrigerant and didn�t mention it.

While it's possible that something hit the intercooler while you were driving, if you hit anything hard enough to significantly damage the IC you hit something large and heavy. You would notice.

I think it's definitely possible/likely that the car was in a collision and isn't appearing on Carfax, or that someone (PO?) drove over something in the road and did the damage.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 15:13

Safety Dance: Sep 10, 2007; Five degrees to starboard!

ryanrs posted:

If that part was so important, the car would have stopped on its own.

It's a defense mechanism. It's like a lizard that can sacrifice its tail to save itself from a predator.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 15:32

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

truavatar posted:

Thanks, went back and read the discussion.

So, another question - there's a plastic piece that goes across the front of the engine compartment that covers one of the bolts I needed to remove to get the battery out. A bunch of the plastic clips/push-rivets holding it were broken (and I managed to break a couple more) and I don't even know what the part is called to look for the appropriate replacement clips.

So they couldn't notch the piece an inch or so? drat engineers.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 15:34

Outrail: Jan 4, 2009; www.sapphicrobotica.com

My last beater didn't have an exhaust system. Just a hole venting exhaust under the passanger side of the cabin. It was winter when I bought it and didn't even realise for about 6 months.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 15:55

Cretin90: Apr 10, 2006

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

While it's possible that something hit the intercooler while you were driving, if you hit anything hard enough to significantly damage the IC you hit something large and heavy. You would notice.

I think it's definitely possible/likely that the car was in a collision and isn't appearing on Carfax, or that someone (PO?) drove over something in the road and did the damage.

Good to know. The dealer wants $900 for a new intercooler and condenser and $1700 for a new clutch, coil, and compressor. Given that the intercooler is functioning, but dented, and I don�t NEED ac (northern clime), I�m a bit tempted to just.... not do it. We�re about to drive cross country (WA to PA) and I�m mostly concerned that the intercooler dent turns into a hole/leak.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 17:28

spankmeister: Jun 15, 2008

PainterofCrap posted:

Fastener rivets, push rivets, little fuckers. They have a variety of names. Yes, they always break.

I have a drawer-full of them. If you're desperate, you pay like $4.00 for three of them at the auto stores.

To get a drawer-full, order online: https://www.amazon.com/UNIGT-Fasten...14659519&sr=8-5

I'll tell you this: Inspect your front end, top and especially bottom, and your inner wheel wells, and replace those little bastards whenever they're missing, because it's a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing all the tupperware. I have a number of relatives who seem to take an obscene pleasure in beaching their cars on christ knows what

"I hear a dragging noise. Might be the brakes"
"Look at the wheel."
"Oh. I can get a pair-"
"NOO DON'T CUT IT OFF NOOOO"
"-and cut it free! Now it's fine!"

Ah yeah I know those they're called "finding or drilling a hole next to it and putting in a zip tie"

# ? Mar 2, 2021 17:39

truavatar: Mar 3, 2004; GIS Jedi

truavatar posted:

It's pretty old, so probably dead. Is there any easy way to tell other than charging it up, putting it back in the vehicle, and trying to start it up again?

I�m reading that I should be able to test it with a multimeter. I�m charging it up right now and based on amperage/ battery size it should be done in about 3 hours. Once it�s done I should get a reading of 12.6V on the multimeter... it sounds like if it�s a little lower it would mean it�s in bad shape but not totally ruined, but less than 12.2V it�s completely shot.

Does that sound right?

# ? Mar 2, 2021 17:43

Krakkles: May 5, 2003

Not really. You can get a bad battery up to 12.6v pretty easily, and it doesn't show you whether the battery still has the capacity to start the car.

Also, my borderline battery shows 12.2 pretty regularly and still works fine, so ... a multimeter isn't going to tell you much about the battery. If you want to test it, you need to take it to a parts store - they have a machine that will judge capacity the battery more accurately.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 17:57

StormDrain: May 22, 2003; Thirteen Letter

spankmeister posted:

Ah yeah I know those they're called "finding or drilling a hole next to it and putting in a zip tie"

If I ever saw a package of zip tie bolts I would buy them on site. Large head one one side and a flanged zip tie nut on the other.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 18:01

truavatar: Mar 3, 2004; GIS Jedi

Krakkles posted:

Not really. You can get a bad battery up to 12.6v pretty easily, and it doesn't show you whether the battery still has the capacity to start the car.

Also, my borderline battery shows 12.2 pretty regularly and still works fine, so ... a multimeter isn't going to tell you much about the battery. If you want to test it, you need to take it to a parts store - they have a machine that will judge capacity the battery more accurately.

Got it, thanks!

# ? Mar 2, 2021 18:02

Uthor: Jul 9, 2006; Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

StormDrain posted:

If I ever saw a package of zip tie bolts I would buy them on site. Large head one one side and a flanged zip tie nut on the other.

Make your own.

McMaster-Carr Page:
https://www.mcmaster.com/Zip-Tie-Anchors/cable-tie-mounts

# ? Mar 2, 2021 18:51

Uncle Lloyd: Sep 2, 2019

truavatar posted:

Got it, thanks!

Yeah what you're really looking for here are cold cranking amps. I'm sure you can buy the tool, but the easiest way is to take the charged battery to the store and they'll test it and happily sell you a new one.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 19:13

Outrail: Jan 4, 2009; www.sapphicrobotica.com

I took what I thought was a failing battery to the store and they told me it was totally fine. I'd already ordered a new battery and they happily let me skip out on taking it. So some parts stores are pretty honest. I'm pissed because it means I have to diagnose wtf is actually wrong. Doh.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 20:03

Javid: Oct 21, 2004

If everything else is pointing to the battery, don't take a parts store diagnosis as gospel.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 22:08

Kia Soul Enthusias: May 9, 2004; zoom-zoom; Toilet Rascal

Javid posted:

If everything else is pointing to the battery, don't take a parts store diagnosis as gospel.

I've seen reports of batteries "testing ok" on the ones put into Kia EVs, even though they are dying. Not sure why that is. Maybe you have to run the test more than once in a row. (Though the batteries Kia seem to be using are bad, and probably the charging logic they use too, even Tesla has had that happen)

edit: but yes, the only way to test a battery's health is under load. Voltage alone doesn't tell you anything.

Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Mar 2, 2021

# ? Mar 2, 2021 22:15

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Javid posted:

If everything else is pointing to the battery, don't take a parts store diagnosis as gospel.

This depends on how it was tested.

Do not believe a quick tester that a battery is good. It's usually right about them being bad. Usually.

But a carbon pile is the gold standard. 45 minutes minimum, should have a receipt that it spits out that says pass/fail and the remaining CCA vs what it's supposed to have.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 22:22

NinjaPablo: Nov 20, 2003; Ewww it's all sticky...; Grimey Drawer

2014 Dodge Journey with the 3.6L

Got it used, and its randomly had struggles starting since I've gotten it. It will crank for a 5 seconds or so before starting, but it does always start. I did replace the battery last year, since it was original and finally died, but this problem has existed before and since the new battery.

I did find a TSB, 18-054-14, for "A small number of customers may experience an intermittent 1 to 5 second extended crank condition when starting their vehicle. No DTCs will be present when this occurs." which involves the bank 1 camshaft position sensor, and sure enough the sensor on mine does have a serial # beginning with 'D', and the TSB recommends replacement. Seems like a simple replacement, but it also says "Using WiTECH perform the Cam/Crank Variation Relearn procedure and follow the on screen instructions" - Does that relearn process need to be done via witech, or would disconnecting the battery for a bit be sufficient?

# ? Mar 2, 2021 22:34

Outrail: Jan 4, 2009; www.sapphicrobotica.com

Motronic posted:

This depends on how it was tested.

Do not believe a quick tester that a battery is good. It's usually right about them being bad. Usually.

But a carbon pile is the gold standard. 45 minutes minimum, should have a receipt that it spits out that says pass/fail and the remaining CCA vs what it's supposed to have.

They had it all day to charge and do some other technofuckery so I assume they know what they were doing(?). I might try and borrow a battery and see if that starts easier.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 22:38

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

NinjaPablo posted:

2014 Dodge Journey with the 3.6L

Got it used, and its randomly had struggles starting since I've gotten it. It will crank for a 5 seconds or so before starting, but it does always start. I did replace the battery last year, since it was original and finally died, but this problem has existed before and since the new battery.

I did find a TSB, 18-054-14, for "A small number of customers may experience an intermittent 1 to 5 second extended crank condition when starting their vehicle. No DTCs will be present when this occurs." which involves the bank 1 camshaft position sensor, and sure enough the sensor on mine does have a serial # beginning with 'D', and the TSB recommends replacement. Seems like a simple replacement, but it also says "Using WiTECH perform the Cam/Crank Variation Relearn procedure and follow the on screen instructions" - Does that relearn process need to be done via witech, or would disconnecting the battery for a bit be sufficient?

Just replace it.

# ? Mar 2, 2021 23:28

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Outrail posted:

They had it all day to charge and do some other technofuckery so I assume they know what they were doing(?). I might try and borrow a battery and see if that starts easier.

Yeah, if they needed it all day and didn't just hook a little portable scanner thing up to it when you walked in it sounds like you got the real deal. So dead means dead, good means good.

Sorry but I haven't been following......how crusty were the battery clamps? Corrosion creeps up under the battery cable insulation and rots it out and you can't tell until you start cutting back insulation. If it was previously or currently nasty around there is worth considering maybe it's one or both of your cables not providing a good path.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 00:00

Outrail: Jan 4, 2009; www.sapphicrobotica.com

Wires looked good I think? I'll have a decent look later.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 02:36

lite_sleepr: Jun 3, 2003; by Radio Games Forum

What is the best way to get baked on hard water stains off of glass? I tried a 50/50 mix of distilled vinegar and water and it didn't do anything.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 02:43

KakerMix: Apr 8, 2004; 8.2 M.P.G.

lite_sleepr posted:

What is the best way to get baked on hard water stains off of glass? I tried a 50/50 mix of distilled vinegar and water and it didn't do anything.

The only luck I've had, both on 1985 trucks so the hard water stains were long-baked, was distilled water, 0000 steel wool, and a ton of time.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 02:48

lite_sleepr: Jun 3, 2003; by Radio Games Forum

Steel wool on glass?

Isn't there a chemical I can buy

# ? Mar 3, 2021 02:49

Powershift: Nov 23, 2009

lite_sleepr posted:

Steel wool on glass?

Isn't there a chemical I can buy

You could try a glass polish like 3m or Autoglym.

I don't think they sell 3m Glass polish in small quantities though.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 02:52

Deteriorata: Feb 6, 2005

lite_sleepr posted:

What is the best way to get baked on hard water stains off of glass? I tried a 50/50 mix of distilled vinegar and water and it didn't do anything.

You can try straight vinegar or some coffee maker descalers. Sulfamic or hydrochloric (muriatic) acid would attack hard water and leave glass alone. Just don't get it on the paint or chrome. And wear rubber gloves.

If that doesn't remove it, it's not a hard water stain, it's something that's etched the glass. You'll have to polish it out or replace it.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 02:54

Boaz MacPhereson: Jul 11, 2006; Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

KakerMix posted:

The only luck I've had, both on 1985 trucks so the hard water stains were long-baked, was distilled water, 0000 steel wool, and a ton of time.

Yep. We've got hard water and I use 0000 on my shower glass. Works a treat and no scratches.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 03:03

KakerMix: Apr 8, 2004; 8.2 M.P.G.

lite_sleepr posted:

Steel wool on glass?

Isn't there a chemical I can buy

I'm just telling you what legit worked for me, I did the same thing with vinegar and clay bars and whatever the hell. Nothing but 0000 steel wool, distilled water, and time to slowly grind the hardwater remnants off the glass.

No scratches, no chemicals, works great.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 03:29

ryanrs: Jul 12, 2011

lite_sleepr posted:

Steel wool on glass?

Isn't there a chemical I can buy

I know the PDI/detail guys at my Mazda dealership use steel wool to clean glass. Outside only, you don't want to gently caress up defroster lines, etc.

Glass is way harder than steel, so it is quite safe. You couldn't scratch glass with steel wool if you tried.

# ? Mar 3, 2021 03:45

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# ? May 14, 2024 15:54

lite_sleepr: Jun 3, 2003; by Radio Games Forum

I'm concerned it'll leave swirls and scratches. I think it'll look great when it's sunny but at night, headlights will hit them and it'll be an opaque, swirly mess.

lite_sleepr fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Mar 3, 2021

# ? Mar 3, 2021 03:55

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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