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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That is what my jig I tried does actually, and it does taper the flute, but not enough, and it doesn't solve the problem of the flutes running into each other. I think I may have just designed this badly. Might should have made the taper of the post match the taper of the flutes and the flats between flutes should get wider as the flutes get smaller. If I had a bunch of them to do it would probably be worth faffing around to get the jig right, but I think it's gonna be job for gouge and scrapers after all. I'm not sure I'm following this right but should the flutes and edges all converge at one imaginary point off the end of the post? Might have to find that point and pin your jig to it so it can rotate. Here's a Pikler triangle for my daughter. I wasn't sure how to layout the joints accurately so I drew this in onshape, printed 1:1 templates, and batched out all the half laps pretty quickly. The fit is pretty good with a couple joints needing adjusting. I printed a template for the hole spacing as well. https://imgur.com/a/oXu5zCj 
bred fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 04:19
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Falco posted:Nope sorry, I was attempting to describe exactly what nostrata described. A piece of wood that would nearly span the width of your desk and be clamped to the vertical back legs using a conduit strap clamp. Something similar to these Thanks, this is what I'll do.
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Mar 3, 2021 04:34
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bred posted:I'm not sure I'm following this right but should the flutes and edges all converge at one imaginary point off the end of the post? Might have to find that point and pin your jig to it so it can rotate. That's a really nice pickler, I'm sure your daughter is happy.
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Mar 3, 2021 04:47
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Stultus Maximus posted:I got a 6" and for the most part wish I hadn't spent the money and just used table saw jigs instead. This is kinda what I expected to hear. I think I'll make one of the tablesaw jigs people have been mentioning. I've been meaning to do that anyway since it doubles as a taper jig. I think I even have some random toggle clamps lying around.
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Mar 3, 2021 08:39
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Stultus Maximus posted:I got a 6" and for the most part wish I hadn't spent the money and just used table saw jigs instead. I am curious about this. My situation is this: 1) I do not have a table saw and really don't expect to get one. 2) All the base 'stock' that I'll be working with will be small compared to everything you guys normally do.. typically 2-3" x 4-5" x 20-30" Given the above, would one of the relatively cheap 6" benchtop jointers actually do what I need one to do (give me 2 flat/true sides to put on the bandsaw to re-saw) or does yours have some sort of fundamental flaw that makes it not do what a jointer is designed to do?
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Mar 3, 2021 16:27
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I've been jointing by using a sled in the planer to get flat faces and then a circular saw with a cutting guide to get an edge. Tamar has a video about jointing without a jointer.
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Mar 3, 2021 16:33
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I've been jointing with a jack plane. It's a good workout
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Mar 3, 2021 16:42
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I have a 10 inch jointer/ planer combo and it works well for the small stuff I do. The problem with combo jointers is the tables are never big enough to joint long stock. Spending more on a large bed planer and using wedges etc like the Tamar custom YouTuber mentioned above has more usefulness for small shops.
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Mar 3, 2021 17:32
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The Locator posted:I am curious about this. My situation is this: Where do you live? There's an old Canadian maker, Beaver that used to sell a 4" jointer that sounds perfect for what you need. It's quality cast iron which you don't normally see on those benchtop units, but just too small to be useful for furniture or whatever.
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Mar 3, 2021 18:00
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serious gaylord posted:I have a 10 inch jointer/ planer combo and it works well for the small stuff I do. The problem with combo jointers is the tables are never big enough to joint long stock. Is the ubiquitous DW735 big enough? I don't have a planer either and it's kind of limiting. Not sure I have space for it either but I could probably shoehorn it in with some rearranging.
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Mar 3, 2021 18:14
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Where do you live? There's an old Canadian maker, Beaver that used to sell a 4" jointer that sounds perfect for what you need. It's quality cast iron which you don't normally see on those benchtop units, but just too small to be useful for furniture or whatever. Arizona. I'm not sure 4" would be wide enough for some of the boards, but I should know more by the end of this month as I am supposed to actually have all the wood billets in my possession sometime this month.
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Mar 3, 2021 18:38
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Its useful to completely separate edge jointing from face jointing for the purposes of this user. For edge jointing boards of 20-30" you have the following options: 1. A jack plane or larger handplane, a bench with a way to hold the work, and some practice. 2. A small benchtop jointer (for boards this short pretty much any will suffice) Edge jointing with a planer is doable, but imo only if you have a way of straightening and squaring one edge beforehand, and only for boards up to 6" (and its more reliable under 4").
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Mar 3, 2021 18:48
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is the ubiquitous DW735 big enough? I don't have a planer either and it's kind of limiting. That one is used by a lot of people and gets very little complaint. Theres a Triton version too which is a touch cheaper but I havent heard enough about it to say for sure. If you have the money for it I would get the Dewalt planer.
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Mar 3, 2021 19:44
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is the ubiquitous DW735 big enough? I don't have a planer either and it's kind of limiting. If you routinely have boards wider than 12”, it’s nice to not have to rip them up to fit through a narrow planer, but with a good glue joint you can glue them back together pretty seamlessly. We’v got a 25” planer at work and I love it but it weighs more than an actual ton and needs 50A of three phase power and even used and 20yrs old it cost as much as a used car. Sometimes we surface hundreds of bf of lumber at a time and it’s been worth it for that and being able to surface large glue-ups after glueing is super useful too. That being said, if my shop was at home and this wasn’t my job, I think a 12” planer would be plenty. In a perfect world where money/space were no object, I think a scm/minimax 16 or 20” jointer/planer combo machine would be pretty ideal.
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Mar 3, 2021 20:16
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Yeah the only way I'm upgrading my 735 is to a 12"+ spiral cutterhead combo machine, anything less isn't going to move the needle.
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Mar 3, 2021 22:13
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I finally snagged one of those Ikea Karlby desks with a oak veneer over particle for a computer desk. It comes with a hard wax oil and was wondering what people here recommend for stripping it. I've read mineral oil then sand with 220 and add polyurethane coatings, like 4 to 5. Does an oil based stain even work on something that is 1/8" or is there another thing to make it darker? I wanted the walnut veneer but it's constantly sold out and is also $60 CAD more.
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Mar 3, 2021 22:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Something as simple a board way longer then the TS fence held against the fence or clamped to it (support the entire edge of the work on both infeed and outfeed) will let you straight line rip one edge of a board. You can also make a similar jig like a taper jig that you clamp the work to. Idk if you can do this with a typical rounded cutter unless it's really more oval and narrower toward the tip. Finding something custom like that would probably be your best bet. If not, what about using a V-groove bit? The flutes would not look as flutey being sharp, but you could probably use the jig to better effect. In fact, if you could grind the tip off a HSS V-groove bit into what I was describing, it might do. Idk, frankly. Vintersorg posted:I finally snagged one of those Ikea Karlby desks with a oak veneer over particle for a computer desk. It comes with a hard wax oil and was wondering what people here recommend for stripping it. I've read mineral oil then sand with 220 and add polyurethane coatings, like 4 to 5. Does an oil based stain even work on something that is 1/8" or is there another thing to make it darker? I wanted the walnut veneer but it's constantly sold out and is also $60 CAD more. Depends a lot on how thick/thin the veneer is to play with.
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Mar 3, 2021 22:32
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I’m debating between that 735 and getting a combo jointer/planer. I don’t have space for a giant jointer, but I also don’t necessarily want to be needing a jointer jig as I want to use a table saw footprint for a bandsaw instead. Maybe I’ll just build a cart for the planer and move it around. A jointer can share the shelf area for the mitre build out. This is all useful information from everyone discussing. But it’s definitely raised more questions that I need to answer.
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Mar 3, 2021 22:32
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Jhet posted:I’m debating between that 735 and getting a combo jointer/planer. I don’t have space for a giant jointer, but I also don’t necessarily want to be needing a jointer jig as I want to use a table saw footprint for a bandsaw instead. Maybe I’ll just build a cart for the planer and move it around. A jointer can share the shelf area for the mitre build out. Go for the combo 
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Mar 3, 2021 22:39
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If you need plywood or aspenite, get it sooner rather than later. I just dropped $9200 on 7/16" OSB and 3/4" t&g today, which would have been around $2500 this time last year.
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Mar 4, 2021 02:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:‘Big enough’ is always pretty subjective. Sounds like a 735 is in the cards then, but not until I've finished some shop upgrades. 12" planer+ jig for face jointing, tablesaw + jig for edge jointing, and I have good handplanes already. I think I'm set. Now I just have to rebuild my miter saw station, dust control systems, and lighting. Lol.
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Mar 4, 2021 06:04
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Pantorouter build took a few steps forward with more components made. Still working on the table, when I can progress to the plunge mechanism and depth stops. Then it'll be basically done, aside from taking it apart again to sand and varnish everything. And the electricals too.   
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Mar 4, 2021 14:53
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That looks so cool. I can't wait to see it finished! There's also something funny about seeing a Festool sitting next to a homemade panto-router.
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Mar 4, 2021 15:03
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Thanks, I'm not a Festool guy though, only one I own is that one and that's because I found it at a flea market for 25 euros
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Mar 4, 2021 18:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:Thanks, I'm not a Festool guy though, only one I own is that one and that's because I found it at a flea market for 25 euros don't worry when the mobs rise up and purge the Festool Class i will show them these posts and tell them "NO! he is one of us, he can build the peoples pantorouters!"
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Mar 4, 2021 18:32
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GEMorris posted:Yeah the only way I'm upgrading my 735 is to a 12"+ spiral cutterhead combo machine, anything less isn't going to move the needle. Just buy a drop-in spiral cutter head into your 735. There's a couple company's that are offering them.
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Mar 4, 2021 21:47
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Mederlock posted:Just buy a drop-in spiral cutter head into your 735. There's a couple company's that are offering them. Seconding this, unless you need the extra capacity the helical upgrades are well worth it. Couple hours of work (or like twice that if you don’t have snap ring pliers) and the thing cuts like a dream.
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Mar 4, 2021 22:01
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Maybe I'll feel differently when I have to change the knives, but the 735 already cuts like a dream to me. I'm sure the shelix is great, but the finish is glass smooth, and I don't even want to sand wood that's gone through it.
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Mar 4, 2021 22:07
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more falafel please posted:Maybe I'll feel differently when I have to change the knives, but the 735 already cuts like a dream to me. I'm sure the shelix is great, but the finish is glass smooth, and I don't even want to sand wood that's gone through it. Same. Built 7-8 smaller pieces of furniture on it so far
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Mar 4, 2021 22:15
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Nothing wrong with waiting till the original blade wears out some and *then* replacing it
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Mar 4, 2021 22:16
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I don't know how well they work but there are also some very cheap honing Stone jigs for jointer and planer blades that I got a while back and will use eventually as things start to dull. definitely not going to make it as nice as a helical cutter but it might extend the life of blades if used in between long operations just like any other straight edge cutting tool
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Mar 4, 2021 22:38
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more falafel please posted:Maybe I'll feel differently when I have to change the knives, but the 735 already cuts like a dream to me. I'm sure the shelix is great, but the finish is glass smooth, and I don't even want to sand wood that's gone through it. Just wait till you have to rotate and align a helix head!
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Mar 4, 2021 22:52
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That Works posted:I don't know how well they work but there are also some very cheap honing Stone jigs for jointer and planer blades that I got a while back and will use eventually as things start to dull. definitely not going to make it as nice as a helical cutter but it might extend the life of blades if used in between long operations just like any other straight edge cutting tool In the case of the DW735 and probably all other lunchbox/portable planers, the knives are located on a pin and not adjustable. Means you can't actually sharpen the knives except maybe one veeerrryyy light pass one time. Still possible, but it doesn't always go well. Planers (and jointers) live or die by the alignment of the knives on the cutterhead.
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Mar 4, 2021 23:36
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Hypnolobster posted:In the case of the DW735 and probably all other lunchbox/portable planers, the knives are located on a pin and not adjustable. Means you can't actually sharpen the knives except maybe one veeerrryyy light pass one time. Still possible, but it doesn't always go well. Planers (and jointers) live or die by the alignment of the knives on the cutterhead. I have a 735 and it seemed accessible enough for it. Same for the Delta 37-190 jointer I have. Just mentioned for info.
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Mar 5, 2021 00:10
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That Works posted:I have a 735 and it seemed accessible enough for it. Same for the Delta 37-190 jointer I have. Just mentioned for info. Your jointer is going to be an adventure the first time (and honestly every time. I hate setting up a jointer) you sharpen/replace knives. The magnetic jigs help, but then you tighten up the gibs and everything slides just a liiiiittle out of alignment. The only way I've found to get them really concentric and conveniently level with the outfeed table (also very important) is to strike them off with a stone while the jointer is running. I have an older book somewhere that describes the jig well for it-this post on woodweb goes into it a bit as well: https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Sharpening_Jointer_Knives_on_the_Machine.html As that discussion mentions, it isn't so much for sharpening dull knives as getting the knives into concentricity and level with the outfeed. It also add a little bevel that can make future touch ups a little easier.
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Mar 5, 2021 01:04
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I have a guy who sharpens my planer blades for me. He's got a pretty professional setup, and most DeWalt/Mastercraft/Lunchbox planer blades have two sharpenings* in them before you have run out of good metal or clearance. I have a metal punch that I put a mark in a planer blade every time it gets sharpened. Once, one set of blades made it to 3, and they just barely squeaked by. *Actual professional sharpening, not some stone or kit you got off Amazon. **I think the actual DeWalt 12" planer blades are just a veneer of cutting metal now. I had a guy steer me away from them to a no-name brand that can actually be sharpened. Blistex fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 5, 2021 |
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Mar 5, 2021 02:15
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Mederlock posted:Just buy a drop-in spiral cutter head into your 735. There's a couple company's that are offering them. I'd be doing that upgrade to have a 12" jointer, not a better planer.
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Mar 5, 2021 02:55
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long time no post, but i'm finally getting back into woodworking after back-to-back baby hiatuses! aside from a bunch of shop fixtures and furniture (and recently, about 30 drawers) I started turning pens in January. Fun (and addictive) little hobby! Here's a few: Amboyna Burl on a baron pen  Fusion Blank on algonquin pen  Buckeye Burl  Double-dyed box elder burl  another fusion blank (epoxy and burl)  and this is my latest one - I had some leftover buckeye burl but it was too short for this Luxor click pen, so I used the scraps from the blue pen above to make some accent bands and added some copper spacers 
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Mar 5, 2021 03:06
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I want to be able to use SketchUp to try and plan out my projects a little better. Does anyone have any recommended tutorials that focus on woodworking?
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Mar 5, 2021 17:28
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Guitarchitect posted:long time no post, but i'm finally getting back into woodworking after back-to-back baby hiatuses! Oh nice! I've wanted to try my hand at this. Where do you get your pen blanks?
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Mar 5, 2021 17:35
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