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Over the weekend I managed to finish up my 30 Panzergrenadiers & an MMG team (plus 1 extra early war blitzkrieg infantry, a medic, a spotter, an Lt. & a Captain, a Forward Observer and the flamethrower unit from my Pioneer squad).  This was a fun project that actually went pretty fast. I was watching some videos of Habsburger Donkey on YouTube where he was painting some zombies for Oathmark. The method is priming the models white, washing Agrax Earthshade then basically just glazing the paints on. Really happy with how they turned out. Left to do: Kradschutzen, Heavy Mortar, 16 Blitzkrieg Infantry, 9 Pioneers and a PaK 36. I think I'm going to focus on terrain for a bit before I dive back into painting more Germans though.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:38
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Class Warcraft posted:It's finally finished. My 226 model British force at Isandlwana. Took about six months, but it feels good to finish a project. Holy poo poo that looks good. I, too, need to work on painting my Zulus.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:46
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Class Warcraft posted:It's finally finished. My 226 model British force at Isandlwana. Took about six months, but it feels good to finish a project. I'm really glad you did all this work so we can play with your models. Can't wait to see em in person.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:48
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Those are all amazing  Any pointers for not loving up painting WW2 28mm? I haven't painted minis in like 20 years.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:27
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For folks interested in modern wargames and/or wargame design, the "War on the Rocks" blog has been running a lot of posts about wargaming written by the people in the US government who design wargames used by the military for strategic planning. There are some interesting articles about wargaming design that bridge some discussion about classic issues of game design with the question of what a game designed as a strategic tool instead of a fun time look like. https://warontherocks.com/index.php?s=wargame
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Mar 1, 2021 18:41
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Tias posted:Those are all amazing Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade is your friend. There are tons of guides out there. What army are you painting?
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Mar 1, 2021 20:19
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Class Warcraft posted:Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade is
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Mar 1, 2021 20:46
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Painted some fancy lads. Got some Perry stuff left to finish up my Italian wars stuff (then batch basing)  
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Mar 1, 2021 20:55
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Tias posted:Those are all amazing My preferred style for WW2 28mm is to keep it simple. I do solid basecoats, a simple wash then a single, big bold highlight for all colors. What are you looking to paint? We can probably help guide you.
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Mar 1, 2021 21:38
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Tias posted:Those are all amazing Painting WW2 minis is one of the easiest, it's pretty hard to mess up as most everything is some shade of brown or green (depending on what theater of battle and what army you're playing, of course), with a few grays and beiges and off-whites mixed in where applicable. Then you just need a dark color to represent metals like rifle barrels (like black or a really dark gray, or a black metallic), and a suitable skintone color, and then just wash the whole thing down with a dark brown wash (such as the aforementioned GW and Army Painter washes). Basically the only way you can truly go wrong is if you game with the type of people who get all huffy and go "that's the wrong color for pants worn in 1943" or whatever. 
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Mar 1, 2021 21:48
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Wowshawk posted:Painted some fancy lads. Got some Perry stuff left to finish up my Italian wars stuff (then batch basing) Looking great! Did you have a pattern or checklist you were following for all the piecemeal colors? I almost went crazy with 200 little viking shields, I can't imagine what a pain this must of been to keep track of.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:21
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Not really, just kept it to two main colours with a 3rd or 4th mixed in for variety. It's all contrasts, so prime and one coat. Went really fast as they don't have a lot of detail either (the odd belt or armour strap). I've tried to differentiate the main colours so that when I lined em up there wouldn't be any repeats though. I'll take some less dogshit pics once I've finished and based everything.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:53
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Pierzak posted:FTFY. The other AP washes are great too, however this doesn't apply to the rest of their paint range. Disagree. One pot of Agrax Earthshade is like $8 and is enough to finish an entire army with. It also dries super matte which is great since a lot of washes have problems with glossiness or other residue. AP is notorious for quality control issues so maybe you get a bottle that works as promised, or maybe you don't. AP Quickshade should also be avoided at all costs, as it's just repurposed wood varnish that smells terrible and leaves your model all sticky.
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Mar 1, 2021 22:58
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Class Warcraft posted:Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade is your friend. There are tons of guides out there. What army are you painting? Why is that? Is it like a wash? Soviet and Finnish. Sydney Bottocks posted:Painting WW2 minis is one of the easiest, it's pretty hard to mess up as most everything is some shade of brown or green (depending on what theater of battle and what army you're playing, of course), with a few grays and beiges and off-whites mixed in where applicable. Then you just need a dark color to represent metals like rifle barrels (like black or a really dark gray, or a black metallic), and a suitable skintone color, and then just wash the whole thing down with a dark brown wash (such as the aforementioned GW and Army Painter washes). Basically the only way you can truly go wrong is if you game with the type of people who get all huffy and go "that's the wrong color for pants worn in 1943" or whatever. This is good stuff, thanks. Well, I'm a kind of autist and have already spent more time on looking up shades than how to paint 
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Mar 2, 2021 08:56
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Tias posted:Why is that? Is it like a wash? A good thing with WW2 is that there are lots of remaining items and colour photos, which all show that all armies had huge differences in how the uniforms and gear were actually coloured. So while there were usually an official stamped version of each colour, they would vary in the field as different factories churned out slightly different stuff, shortages required temporary substitutes, and exposure to sun and weather tended to affect different dyes and paints differently. So don't get hung up on getting a shade that is perfectly historical - get a shade that you are satisfied with. That's how I did with my Americans, I simply experimented with several paints and ended up finding some combinations where I liked how they looked and I liked how they contrasted with each other. If I happened to mix up a slightly lighter olive drab on the second batch of troops, it'll only make them look more like troops in the field rather than a parade ground. My go-to painting method for WW2 stuff: 1) Paint the base colours 2) Wash flesh with a flesh wash, wash everything else with black or brown wash. It helps not to use the same wash on every colour, as you'll get more contrasts. In my case for example, I washed the beige jackets with brown, while I washed the brown pants with black. 3) Go back with the original paints and make a pretty broad highlight, leaving some of the shades from the washes in the recesses. 4) mix the original paints with some light grey or light beige, and paint thinner highlights lilljonas fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 13:10
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Has the updated rulebook for Team Yankee improved anything? Are T-80s cool, or do they just get slaughtered by bigger Abrams/Bradleys/Apaches?
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Mar 2, 2021 18:05
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Pierzak posted:FTFY. The other AP washes are great too, however this doesn't apply to the rest of their paint range. I'm partial to Agrax myself. AP strong tone has a weird consistency and doesn't provide the amount of shading I want. I've even found that making Aly's Brown Liquid, which is made with GW washes, is better for slight shading than AP washes. In fact, ABL has become my main wash.
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Mar 2, 2021 18:59
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Tias posted:Why is that? Is it like a wash? Yeah, it's a wash. It provides a ton of shading, giving it the nickname "skill in a bottle". As you can see, my painting skill is like that of a child, but then you add the earthshade and it's half-decent. 
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Mar 2, 2021 19:41
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Cessna posted:Has the updated rulebook for Team Yankee improved anything? It's made planes without at least 4+ not quite so much as a joke but is otherwise largely similar; terrain's a bit more abstract but not hugely different in practice. It's otherwise largely similar (notably, it did not introduce command cards or change command radius). The T-80 is very cool but is pretty feast or famine. It doesn't suffer too bad against the Abrams (it's still got a decent shot at bouncing the round at range, AT 22 is adequate against front 19 on the IP, and the M1A1HC is so expensive as to not really exist in viable form at reasonable points levels), but it gets eaten alive by TOW-2s. Apaches will also do some damage but they're pricey; taking a list with loads of cheap-ish TOW-2s, on the other hand, makes a fierce gunline against the T-80U. Conversely, the T-80 is maybe slightly OP against every other list in the game; they're cheap enough to get 8-12 hulls down, depending on your list, and every other NATO force typically has exactly one big-boy missile system that can deal with them in a single division-level limited slot, or else on a helicopter. If you have an aggressive air defence and make killing that one missile unit your primary objective you can end up in a situation where things like leopard 2s or challengers are trying to play "get him in the side", which is non-trivial with the mobility of the T-80U and the limited amount of hulls the MBT NATO tanks can put down. I think the real soviet standout's the BMP-3 though; you can get quite a lot of them, they're not really scared of autocannons, and they can kind of take all comers in return. The only thing they really have trouble with is head-to-head with premium MBTs, and if that's the weak spot of your IFV you're doing pretty well. The other new soviet toys are all pretty nice but feel very toys-y (which I don't mind at all; almost every NATO book is like that). TOS-1 is fun but ruined by abysmal skill that make it strictly a novelty. Tunguska is good but maybe less useful than just buying a shilka and strelas for similar points. The Uragan is maybe the most useful new toy, since the soviets haven't had mine bombardments up til now and that provides it handily, but it sits at the nice balance point of "nice but not must have". The T-55 list feels superfluous when the T-62M is already doing the T-55's job more competently (both being cheap spammy tanks, but the T-62 having a credible AT and no slow firing). The sleeper hit is the Shturm missile upgrade, which is affordable and increases both AT and range; it's not nothing on the Hind but feels kind of unnecessary, since you can just fly into their side, but on the MTLB chassis it makes it's range "yes" and gives it a little bump in getting through the new premium MBT front armours. In a sterling Battlefrontism, stuff with Shturm and the T-80U both get Tandem Warhead missiles, which ignore the ERA rule; quite ignoring that the Shturm has enough AT to ignore ERA anyway, only the T-80U actually has the ERA rule, meaning the only place the new keyword matters is when a T-80U is shooting another T-80U in the flank at a range of more than 32 but less than 40 inches. I hope that helps. Anything else you're curious on? spectralent fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 21:19
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Cessna posted:Has the updated rulebook for Team Yankee improved anything? I haven't actually played TYv2 yet because of the 'rona but T-80s actually seem really good, and in fact are probably the only next-gen MBTs that will see any play, I think. A M1A1HC is a eye-watering 18 points per tank. A T-80 is a much tamer 7.3 points per tank. Baseline M1s never saw play because they were too expensive already, being 14 points of tank that died every bit as easily to Hinds and SU-25s as a cheaper tank. All the next-gen MBTs, the T-80 and the various 120mm NATO tanks, have a real hard time killing each other, but if they'd just sit there and duke it out the T-80 would get wiped by the M1A1. On the other hand, the T-80 is the only one of the lot that is actually reasonably priced. Keep your T-80s hidden, bumrush the NATO TOW-armed light vehicles with your BMP-2 swarm, kill their fancy high-end MBTs with Hinds and flanking BMPs, and then your T-80s can clean up with impunity. Expensive MBTs in TY have never been viable for the most part, because they are a huge point sink that dies easily to good ATGMs and aircraft. The new high-end NATO MBTs are even more expensive, and die just as easily, and in fact there are now more good ATGMs in the game. Oh and you can finally get Soviets with good skill and a Careful to-hit value with the new Shock versions of tank and motorstrelki units, which is cool and opens up a new playstyle for Soviets. Soviets in TY2 seem very cool and good.
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Mar 2, 2021 21:30
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Those posts are very useful, thanks. I'm thinking of trying "Shock" T-80s with a couple of BMP-3s and some Hinds, using a new Soviet starter set plus maybe another box of T-80s plus some Hinds I bought years ago but never got around to building. Maybe one day I'll be able to play a wargame in person.
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Mar 2, 2021 22:54
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Cessna posted:Those posts are very useful, thanks. Sounds alright! You might want some air defence since TOW-2 and HOT-carrying hunter-killers are probably one of the bigger problems you have on that list. Annoyingly the air defence support doesn't get Shock status.
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Mar 3, 2021 00:04
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I've got about a dozen Shilkas around, I'll dust them off.
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Mar 3, 2021 00:06
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I've gone done touch the poop and bought the WG Mystery Box 2: https://www.barreldrill.com/unpacking-warlord-games-second-great-mystery-box/ So if any of you fine goons see something you like, well, I have messages open *wink*
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Mar 5, 2021 05:37
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I dunno, one goons trash is probably gonna still be trash. I am a bit interested by the terminator stuff, but I've never heard of anyone playing the game, or even talking about the minis. Otherwise, got my first game of Bolt Action tomorrow, very keen. Been too busy to read the rules but it's basically 5th edition 40k, right? Just have to remember all my D6s for a change.
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Mar 5, 2021 15:26
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JcDent posted:So if any of you fine goons see something you like, well, I have messages open *wink* Those US Army "winter" guys are nice. I've got some I use for Korea.
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Mar 5, 2021 16:29
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Cassa posted:
The way you move around is pretty similar but otherwise they're really two different systems. I gave a brief overview of how a Bolt Action turn works in this Let's Play I ran last year: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3926967#post505537235
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Mar 5, 2021 17:04
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Class Warcraft posted:The way you move around is pretty similar but otherwise they're really two different systems. It would've been weird to mention out of nowhere, but now that you've opened the door, I gotta say your boards are dope and helped me up my terrain game. Games are a lot more interesting when there's maneuver involved instead of exchanging max range salvos in the open.
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Mar 5, 2021 17:40
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Guest2553 posted:It would've been weird to mention out of nowhere, but now that you've opened the door, I gotta say your boards are dope and helped me up my terrain game. Games are a lot more interesting when there's maneuver involved instead of exchanging max range salvos in the open. Wait what the gently caress, we have PBP goon wargames!? 
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Mar 5, 2021 18:06
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Cassa posted:I dunno, one goons trash is probably gonna still be trash. I am a bit interested by the terminator stuff, but I've never heard of anyone playing the game, or even talking about the minis. Also I think you could get one of those Pegasus T2 hunter-killer kits and it worked out to be roughly in scale. Basically there is as yet insufficient data for a meaningful answer.
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Mar 5, 2021 19:08
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Guest2553 posted:It would've been weird to mention out of nowhere, but now that you've opened the door, I gotta say your boards are dope and helped me up my terrain game. Games are a lot more interesting when there's maneuver involved instead of exchanging max range salvos in the open. Thanks dude. I really hate the tournament-style "two hills and a house" terrain setup which is why I go hog-wild on my boards. You should see what I've been building over the last couple months...  Pierzak posted:Wait what the gently caress, we have PBP goon wargames!? I've run a couple, and will probably do a couple more this spring. I usually announce them here.
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Mar 5, 2021 19:46
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Mar 5, 2021 20:19
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Class Warcraft posted:Thanks dude. I really hate the tournament-style "two hills and a house" terrain setup which is why I go hog-wild on my boards. You should see what I've been building over the last couple months...
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Mar 5, 2021 20:38
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Arquinsiel posted:Having played in a few tournaments and then moved to games where terrain setup was defined by the rules it's obvious why tables in tournaments end up being so lovely. A lot of the time there's just not the time and resources available to make sure every table is interesting, so you end up mass producing the same mediocre "good enough" table X times. On the other hand, the one Flames of War tournament I was at in Belfast had a club worth of terrain for it, and there was really only one dud table out of the lot, and even that was just "too many random hedges" rather than an actual problem. The solution they hit upon was making sure that you never played on a table twice. Yeah 4+ tables with nice terrain is a ton of work and/or very expensive. I've been building Stalingrad terrain for almost three years now and I have maybe enough stuff to fill three 4'x6' tables.
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Mar 5, 2021 20:42
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There's also the problem of "nice" terrain vs "good" terrain. I'm sure we've all struggled to balance a 28mm gundude on a hill over the years.
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Mar 5, 2021 20:50
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Class Warcraft posted:I've been building Stalingrad terrain for almost three years now and I have maybe enough stuff to fill three 4'x6' tables. More pics, please!
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Mar 5, 2021 21:56
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Anybody know of places that sell half decent looking saga measuring sticks?
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Mar 7, 2021 02:03
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody know of places that sell half decent looking saga measuring sticks? Sarissa Precision sell a bunch of themed ones: Anglo Saxons/Danes: https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/tokens-rulers/products/saga-measuring-sticks-anglo-danish-saxons Normans: https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/tokens-rulers/products/saga-measuring-sticks-norman-breton Vikings: https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/tokens-rulers/products/saga-measuring-sticks-viking-jomsviking Welsh/Scots: https://sarissa-precision.com/collections/tokens-rulers/products/saga-measuring-sticks-welsh-scots
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Mar 7, 2021 02:24
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Perfect, thank you!
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Mar 7, 2021 07:34
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I took your advice and am at work painting two combat engineers. It's been like 20 years since I've painted anything, so a bunch of questions arose: Is it okay to highlight before using a wash? 'cause I did. What is all this anti matt varnish and quickshade toner that came with my army painter boxes? They say I can just dip it in the toner and then they just have to dry and then I put on varnish and the models are good to go? Also, how do I best take care of my pencils? I vaguely recall a lot of frustration as a young goon because my citadel painter brushes very quickly lost their point and got curved and stuff.
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Mar 7, 2021 17:56
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