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I love the ambiguous "cold water clothes line" or "air hose". Please don't tell me what it is, or point out the air compressor.
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# ? Mar 3, 2021 05:13 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 11:53 |
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H110Hawk posted:I love the ambiguous "cold water clothes line" or "air hose". Please don't tell me what it is, or point out the air compressor. it's PEX
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 02:36 |
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To paraphrase Waka Flocka Flame: "Frame frame the night away, forget about the money I spent today" Panoramic view. Closet, most of what I worked on today, the header is made from primed 2x8's because my buddy who was moving gave them to me, he intended to use them for fascia, but when he asked the roofers to nail them up they went "wtf, no, use 1x like a normal person" I didn't realize until I cut into them that they're loving cedar what a shameful waste Another perspective Those clearance doors I talked about, the price tags say one's a 32 and one's a 30...... Hmmmmmmmmmm, they look exactly the same..... They're both 30's, which is good! Because I'm a loving IDIOT and didn't check the proper rough opening for a 32" door, and framed for a 30. I should probably not have my miter saw blast into my window. Plastic box situation looking direr, extension cords and wire have been moved in to disguise the lack of supply.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 06:55 |
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I went to pick up a couple plastic boxes tonight and they almost totally were cleared out. Not even the cartons were there. Is it because of the southern states weather disaster?
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 07:11 |
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I think I noticed it before then. I assume it's COVID/building supply shortages related. Some online searching leads me to believe if I play regional box store hide and seek they're available at certain stores.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 07:26 |
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Sounds like a perfectly good reason to use metal boxes to me... (Though I do use those fiber reinforced plastic light/fan boxes for all ceiling lamp positions. They're great.)
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 07:41 |
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I mean, I wouldn't mind 1900 boxes and mud rings too bad, it's quite a lot of unnecessary hastle, and they're really a PITA to work with (E: not during install, for any sort of future modification), definitely more suited to a commercial or industrial environment. I loathe those horrible gangeable metal boxes you like though, tiny, cramped, impossible to remove for repairs.... I spent 5 years struggling with those pieces of poo poo professionally, I'm not about to do it recreationally Seriously, I will buy a 3d printer and make knockoff PLA nailers, complete with forged UL markings before I use gangeable metal boxes.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 08:12 |
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For what it's worth, I do use the deepest ones that will fit in a 2x4 wall (3.5 deep) and remove extra cable clamps so there's a lot more room than in the standard depth ones with clamps. And given my experience with 4-11/16 square boxes and mudrings since then, I'll probably use either those or the purpose built multigang boxes for the next place, I'm certainly not using 1900s or gangable ones unless there's no other option because you're right, they're annoying. I've seen too many plastic boxes melt due to wiring faults or have the cable barbs break off after a few years to be happy with them, though.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 08:24 |
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They're still too narrow and short, even if they're the deep ones. I've seen tons of melty plastic boxes... but I've never seen one really catch fire, plus I'm not concerned about bad splices if I'm the one doing the work (in 5 years and thousands of splices I got called back for exactly 1 bad one, a bad splice I made between a #12 solid and a #14 stranded in an 1800W space heater). As for the broken strain reliefs, I also don't much care on new work where the wire's stapled within 12". On old work boxes the hilariously inadequate strain relief is more of an issue for sure. The FRP boxes are niiiiiiiiiice, those things are the best of both worlds. Bakelite was an awesome material for boxes (except for screw holes shattering) too bad it fell out of favor.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 08:45 |
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My $75 Amazon work light has been pretty awesome. This is trees at least 100' from my house, you can see the outline of the windows.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 08:49 |
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I got a cheap tungsten work light and I regret it somewhat. It's great light but it's like standing by a fire.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 12:23 |
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I used to lug one of those 500W fuckers around attics in the summer wiring houses, back before good LEDs were everywhere. Although an extra couple thousand watts of heat might be nice in this house this time of year.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 18:04 |
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Oh God those things. I set one up in my garage to warm up some parts I was painting and it was effective.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 18:10 |
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Yeah I use those for keeping concrete from freezing before it cures when I happen to also need light. High power LED lights are the best thing to happen in the last 20 years.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 18:29 |
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I think I grabbed one of these for about £30 while I was in a place, I should really replace it with LED. https://www.arlec.co.uk/product/twin-halogen-worklight-with-tripod-400w/ Twin 400W lamps. Part of it was that I didn't mind a bit of warmth in some of the rooms I was working in, but turns out 800W halogen is a LOT of infrared.
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 19:47 |
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I've burned myself on those loving things so many times, now I have a 20V DeWalt flashlight that's produces like 75% as much usable light, and lasts for like 8 hours on my 3Ah battery. 20 year old Elviscat woulda killed for one of these things. My big dual head chineseum work light is even brighter than those old 500W halogen work lights, quite a bit more money though, produces just enough heat to be an excellent hand warmer. I do worry about reliability though, the led string light in my garage has one light with a blown cap, another light idk wtf is wrong with it, it just blinks rhythmically, I thought it was gonna die, but it's been like that for months now. Now that I think about it, half the rectifier blown?
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# ? Mar 4, 2021 19:57 |
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Framing question, where can drywallers use framing clips, and where do I have to fill ever aspect of a corner with wood?
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 02:34 |
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Spent all day on the core of the house, slow going, hot to the final part of that area, the ceiling, and ran into a small problem. It's really subtle and understandable that I missed it, so I circled it in red, I don't know if you can even see it. I cut some excess bolt off to make myself feel better. https://i.imgur.com/vNWWPfw.gifv Panorama of all the new framing from the other side, you can see the door framing and headers and stuff.
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 03:22 |
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What am I missing? Have you trapped it?
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 05:34 |
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No, I just got halfway done framing a ceiling that would have trapped it, and made getting to my bedroom impossible. E: now that I think about it, that ladder's going to be an enormous pain to get out.
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 05:43 |
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rip
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 08:36 |
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Elviscat posted:E: now that I think about it, that ladder's going to be an enormous pain to get out. Good thing you have an angle grinder
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 17:10 |
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Elviscat posted:No, I just got halfway done framing a ceiling that would have trapped it, and made getting to my bedroom impossible. Just let the air out of the tires
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 17:46 |
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angryrobots posted:Just let the air out of the tires no no no, dig the floor out lower
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 18:10 |
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Climb up the ladder and pull it up behind you. Pass it down through a window.
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 18:16 |
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I think I'll leave it there as a monument to my hubris and stupidity.Ghostnuke posted:no no no, dig the floor out lower Or just raise the ceiling.
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 23:37 |
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Just cut the joists, obviously
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 23:58 |
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Then you can mount your bathtub mold garden several inches deeper in the stairwell, too.
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# ? Mar 5, 2021 23:59 |
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I'm excited to make the upstairs into a master/suite, I'm pretty sure I can sink my tub/mold garden as low as I want, as long as it's over that beam. My house is rebelling against me trying to fix it, not only is the kitchen drywall failing, the thermostat's bimetal element is failed, and it now has two settings, off, and on. "Fortunately" the pathetic little (it's gotta be like 800W max) kitchen heater is incapable of raising kitchen temps above 70F, especially with the giant uninsulated, unheated hole right next to it. I should probably replace that, or the upstairs one where I have to jam screws and stuff behind the actuating lever to keep the heater on for more than ~2 minutes at a time, because the tstat produces so much internal heat it opens itself. But E: Nerd rant: Generally I'm opposed to replacing simple mechanical devices with digital, but that doesn't apply to loving bimetal elements that directly actuate contacts (as opposed to bimetal thermocouples), they suck so drat hard, I've dealt with them professionally for a decade, and they're never set right, they drift, they fail, everything about them is poo poo. A simple circuit that senses a resistance temperature element and actuates a relay is 100 times more reliable and accurate, and I don't understand why it's almost impossible to find one for baseboard heating with a little switch mode power supply and relay, instead of a chunk of metal trash that's essentially a wear item. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Mar 6, 2021 |
# ? Mar 6, 2021 06:40 |
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I guess today is the day I finally get myself with the nail gun, forgot I switched to 3 ¼ galvanized sinkers and put my hand somewhere stupid. So I got a nice ¼ puncture right under my index finger.
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# ? Mar 6, 2021 21:24 |
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Elviscat posted:I guess today is the day I finally get myself with the nail gun, forgot I switched to 3 ¼ galvanized sinkers and put my hand somewhere stupid. Yikes. Other than it obviously being painful, I hope you didn't do any serious injury to your hand.
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# ? Mar 6, 2021 23:54 |
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Elviscat posted:I guess today is the day I finally get myself with the nail gun, forgot I switched to 3 ¼ galvanized sinkers and put my hand somewhere stupid. Oh drat. I was using my nail gun in less than ideal conditions today, I'm surprised I didn't join you. Also glad it was mild.
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 00:30 |
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I'm still waiting for one of these bladey bastards to taste first blood. My money's on the jointer.
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 00:54 |
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Yeah, good wake-up for me not to get complacent, I usually make sure my hands are clear, just because poo poo can happen, like the board splitting, and then I have a whole rear end nail in my hand and a bonus trip to the ER. I was in a fog all day today, found my fingats a little too close to the chop saw a couple times too. My GF, who is her manufacturing plant's safety manager as like a side job, said she'll buy me a Yeti cooler if I have 0 long-time injuries during my project (the same incentive they give to employees) I built a wall today, the first one I got to assemble separately and drop in place instead of piecing together, so much faster. Ran out of wood so I mounted the new breaker panel too, also traced and cut out every circuit I don't need to transfer over from the old panel. Hore much of a sociopath do you have to be to park like this? The Ford Ranger might be the finest pickup ever built, but it's not really ideal for 16' lengths of lumber. (That super duty is loading like 10 sticks of PVC trim, the owner has a step ladder so he can reach the bed)
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 05:24 |
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Elviscat posted:The Ford Ranger might be the finest pickup ever built, but it's not really ideal for 16' lengths of lumber. (That super duty is loading like 10 sticks of PVC trim, the owner has a step ladder so he can reach the bed) And a verrrry small penis. Today on the freeway I saw a hero. Honda civic ex with some ~1-2" pipes sticking several feet out of the sunroof going down the freeway near Anaheim, CA. They must have been 6' sections. ADA license plate and everything. It made me very happy.
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 05:53 |
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I used to fit 10' sticks of conduit in my Mustang on supply runs, 1" and below PVC would fit, if we needed EMT I had to put the top down.
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 06:02 |
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Elviscat posted:I used to fit 10' sticks of conduit in my Mustang on supply runs, 1" and below PVC would fit, if we needed EMT I had to put the top down. Top down skies the limit.
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 06:23 |
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It's not easter yet, try to keep the nails out of your hands. Wall looks great! Way easier to get them securely nailed/screwed when you can run a few in from the end as well as the toenails on each side, too. I usually just go for full Vlad the Impaler mode and put my lumber or pipe out the passenger front window if it's not long enough. I've come home with 12 footers out the window of the Roadmaster a bunch and 10 footers out the window of various jeeps and subarus. There was this magical trip too... (And that time I put fourteen 16ft 2x12s on the roof of an XJ, but I didn't take any pics that time because I didn't want evidence of me knowing it was sketchy as gently caress to exist. )
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# ? Mar 7, 2021 07:17 |
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kastein posted:
That is sketchy as gently caress. Lumber would fit better on the Ranger if I put the canopy back on, but . Framing is hard, also I should probably plan out complex features like the opening for the stairs before I start throwing wood around, or I end up with poo poo like this: Faaaaaarrrrttt I guess I'll encase that post or something to make it look like not-poo poo. My drywallers are gonna hate me. I was hoping to get the whole ceiling in today, I didn't even come close.
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# ? Mar 8, 2021 04:03 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 11:53 |
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Man this new Project Farm video speaks to me. https://youtu.be/Tan-mrKLuGY I just got a bunch of brand new Bosch T25s for 75% off on clearance, but I'll have to remember this.
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# ? Mar 8, 2021 08:25 |