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kastein posted:drat that's a pretty decent laser. Who made it and what did you pay? What's the focal length on the cutting head? What are you gonna use it for? Raycus RFL-C1000, $1725 + shipping. Brand new in box. supposed retail $14k, china price seems to be about $6k. Quite the ebay snipe! I will certainly lean on your experience! The cutting head is a WSX SW15, 125 or 150mm focal length (waiting for confirmation) . That's going on a Staubli RX90 arm (another ebay special!). trying to figure out with my contractor if I can ceiling mount it. The handheld head is the Qilin v8 . It's cool because it's bright purple. And it has a 2d galvo system, so I think with some futzing with the control software, I can make welds consisting of a series of tiny dickbutts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rmv3g0dlSoI Apart from cutting and welding, Laser Assisted Incremental Forming https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e-FjlSMwB0, Selective Laser Melting/DMLS, Laser Cladding, and if I can find a cheap enough version of the LC1403S-L1, rust cleaning.   Shark wise, I'm 1/2 a mile from the caribbean sea and the atlantic ocean, so I'm covered. edit: my new favorite scifi looking laser gun 
fins fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 16:55
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Ooooo a galvo too! Nice, that'll be great for additive machining and laser marking. Most of my experience is with IPG Photonics products (because I worked there), but I won't be surprised if a lot of the control interfaces are semi standardized or at least similar. Does the cutting head have capacitive standoff/height sensing, and/or focus length control? What size fiber did you get? That's an incredible price, too. I can't stress how careful you need to be with the handheld thing and with laser safety in general on this - that thing will blind you in milliseconds and can very very easily cause second or third degree skin burns too most likely. E: oh, looks like a fixed focal length head, though I haven't read the datasheet.
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Mar 6, 2021 17:18
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to update on the eRatchet saga -  holy poo poo how did I live without this for so long.
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Mar 6, 2021 20:20
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Yeah, you can never go back now.
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Mar 7, 2021 01:08
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It's awesome because it doesn't move a nut especially fast, and it's still many times faster than you can do by hand.
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Mar 7, 2021 01:14
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Yeah, it's like cheat mode. I think one of my favorite uses is actually swapping toilets. Between the old house and the current place I've done 4 and the M12 ratchet spins down the anchor nuts like a dream.
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Mar 7, 2021 01:54
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I just used my first ratchet that didn’t come in a socket set, and holy poo poo. Also my first 90 tooth ratchet, which is also super nice. https://www.tekton.com/flex-quick-release-ratchet-set-srh92103 Milwaukee ratchet is nice too, I’ve got the original and love it.
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Mar 7, 2021 05:00
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Yeah, it's like cheat mode. I think one of my favorite uses is actually swapping toilets. Between the old house and the current place I've done 4 and the M12 ratchet spins down the anchor nuts like a dream. Oh shoot, I gotta remember that one.
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Mar 7, 2021 05:21
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totally cheat mode - I was looking for poo poo to take apart with it - it seems I always buy tools after I'm done with the task I really wanted it for in the first place as far as standard ratchets I go between my "circle H" craftsman which were made between 1931 and 1947 which looks like this minus the bakelite handle (this one is super rare) mine just has a knurled metal grip:  its really a great ratchet - compact, easy to switch directions and the teeth arent as sloppy as you think they would be and my modern craftsman professional for the tight areas where I need more clicks https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Ne...5097188&sr=8-14
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Mar 7, 2021 07:07
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Not sure if this has been posted, but it certainly was (good) news to me: Makita 18V ratchet! DWR180 in Europe and Oceania, probably some other model name in North America. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnGMwN49hxo
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Mar 8, 2021 12:32
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I’ve got one ordered. Downside for me is only having 5AH batteries. I’ll have to acquire some 2AH slims.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:05
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na version - https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XRW01...15241014&sr=8-3 having just ordered a red team one with battery and charger for less money than this one alone, I'm... kinda ok with that.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:04
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LobsterboyX posted:na version - https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XRW01...15241014&sr=8-3 
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Mar 8, 2021 23:42
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I bought a Koken ratchet + socket socket a month or so back, and was unprepared for what arrived. The knurling was really nice, and the stamped steel box was like a step back in time.
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Mar 9, 2021 02:10
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I guess this is as good a spot as any. Are there any inch/fraction sizes of nuts and bolts below 1/4"? I don't ever recall seeing anything below that, though I have never really looked. I need something in 3/16" size. Is below 1/4" where things start getting in to number sizing? #6, #8, #10 etc?
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Mar 10, 2021 02:36
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correct. if you need 3/16 thread diameter, that's basically #10. #10 is 0.19 in, 3/16=0.1875 should be close enough. standard hex size for #10 is 3/8 wrench or socket.
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Mar 10, 2021 02:52
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There are technically #12, #14, and 3/16 and I think 1/8 fasteners but they are extremely rare and honestly anyone who uses them in a design deserves the pain in the rear end it will cause them eventually. Normally it goes from #10 to 1/4 as far as I know. There is a 3/16 in AN hardware because aircraft weight is expensive enough to justify its existence where it's strong enough and saves weight vs an AN4 (1/4) fastener.
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Mar 10, 2021 06:18
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Any of you guys in to numbered drill bits? Whats the deal with them? I have an ages old chart that shows the cross overs and I bought a cool old numbered bit holder with no bits, its been kicking around my garage for so long and today I started thinking about buying a cheap set of numbered bits to fill it - my drill bit selection is all over the board, I have a few really nice sets that are fractional and in their own boxes and then a drawer full of ones I use and abuse that are just arranged by size from various cheapo sets I've bought over the years.
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Mar 10, 2021 07:03
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LobsterboyX posted:Any of you guys in to numbered drill bits? Whats the deal with them? I have an ages old chart that shows the cross overs and I bought a cool old numbered bit holder with no bits, its been kicking around my garage for so long and today I started thinking about buying a cheap set of numbered bits to fill it - my drill bit selection is all over the board, I have a few really nice sets that are fractional and in their own boxes and then a drawer full of ones I use and abuse that are just arranged by size from various cheapo sets I've bought over the years. When you get to small, precise hole sizes the fractional sizing system doesn't work anymore, imperial measurements being what they are, someone decided it would be easier to number the bits than give their size in thou. The only time I've seen specific sizes called out is for using them as ghetto go/no-go gauges to judge orifice size, but I Am Not A Machinist.
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Mar 10, 2021 07:25
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i've heard of F being used as a slight oversized reamer for getting 1/4" pins to fit without needing to be pressed. i think the letters are for when they ran out of gauge numbers?
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Mar 10, 2021 07:34
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kastein posted:There are technically #12, #14, and 3/16 and I think 1/8 fasteners but they are extremely rare and honestly anyone who uses them in a design deserves the pain in the rear end it will cause them eventually. Normally it goes from #10 to 1/4 as far as I know. #12-24 is a pretty common size for rack hardware i know ive seen it elsewhere, cause when i worked at a surplus store and people would come in asking for it, i would point them towards the rack hardware LobsterboyX posted:Any of you guys in to numbered drill bits? Whats the deal with them? I have an ages old chart that shows the cross overs and I bought a cool old numbered bit holder with no bits, its been kicking around my garage for so long and today I started thinking about buying a cheap set of numbered bits to fill it - my drill bit selection is all over the board, I have a few really nice sets that are fractional and in their own boxes and then a drawer full of ones I use and abuse that are just arranged by size from various cheapo sets I've bought over the years. i have some, just because i got a pretty complete set, but i use them rarely. i think tap charts are the only place ive had the number/letter bits come up if you can spend like $5 on a loaded index of them i recommend it 
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Mar 10, 2021 08:50
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LobsterboyX posted:Any of you guys in to numbered drill bits? Whats the deal with them? I have an ages old chart that shows the cross overs and I bought a cool old numbered bit holder with no bits, its been kicking around my garage for so long and today I started thinking about buying a cheap set of numbered bits to fill it - my drill bit selection is all over the board, I have a few really nice sets that are fractional and in their own boxes and then a drawer full of ones I use and abuse that are just arranged by size from various cheapo sets I've bought over the years. I use them all the time, and spec their use in parts. Number, letter, fractional, metric... All get used. They're used for clearance sizes, tap drills, under/over size pins, etc. If you go much tapping, you'll get used to seeing them called out. If it's a soft material, I'm going to try to get more thread depth, if it's hard, I'll oversize the drill hole a bit. There's charts for all of this stuff.
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Mar 10, 2021 14:53
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I bought a cheapo cheap harbor freight drill set with all the letter and number types because i got tired of the "wiggle the drill" method of making holes slightly larger than standard fractional sizes.
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Mar 10, 2021 15:36
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Does anyone have any experience with these cheaper fab tables? I'm in need of a decent table for welding and fixturing. But I also need something that can moved around easily. This one is nice because you can make it be very short so it can sit on my other metal table. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Mar 10, 2021 16:36
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Raluek posted:i think tap charts are the only place ive had the number/letter bits come up It's this. My former machineist buddy has....well everything and this is the most common thing I've seen them called out for, followed by: OMGVBFLOL posted:i've heard of F being used as a slight oversized reamer for getting 1/4" pins to fit without needing to be pressed. i think the letters are for when they ran out of gauge numbers? Yeah, friction/interference fits. But I believe that the "wrong" way to do it, and you're supposed to use a reamer. But who's got a full set of those?
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Mar 10, 2021 16:52
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Motronic posted:Yeah, friction/interference fits. But I believe that the "wrong" way to do it, and you're supposed to use a reamer. But who's got a full set of those? Using drills to get precise holes is wrong because drills tend to drill a little oversized. That's totally fine if you're trying to land within a few thou of a target, but you want a reamer if you're trying to hit a tenth.
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Mar 10, 2021 18:21
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Motronic posted:It's this. My former machineist buddy has....well everything and this is the most common thing I've seen them called out for, followed by: Machinists. Either that or a boring bar.
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Mar 10, 2021 18:27
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Raluek posted:#12-24 is a pretty common size for rack hardware Oh yeah, you're right. Whoops.
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Mar 10, 2021 21:32
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IME you usually have reamers on hand that bracket your different common pin sizes for certain fits and get ones for specific jobs otherwise, like I'd have reamers for any fit I wanted around 1/8 1/4 8 etc pins but if a job needed a .4385 +/- .0003 hole I'd have to order something. And yeah once it's big enough you get the boring head out but tiny boring bars are a loving pain compared to reamers and need to be run in vs grab and go (generally). Also generally I wouldn't trust a drill for anything tighter than +/- .01 unless it's a good sharp drill in a machining center, big box drills in a drill press are like +/-.025 sometimes. If you want really fun sets of stuff I used to have a set of gauge pins from like 0.1 to 0.5 in .0002 increments for inspecting holes that were too much of a pain to get a dial bore gauge into, and normal bore gauges suck in low clearance operations.
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Mar 10, 2021 23:05
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The thread has definitely covered this before, but what do people like for steel toe work boots?
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Mar 11, 2021 04:10
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realllllllly touchy topic - for me, I wouldn't go any other way than Thorogood - I've had Redwings, really great boots, but I prefer the Thorogood for comfort and quality. I'm a casual user and I don't own any steel toes anymore because I simply don't need that kind of protection anymore, but when I did, they were Thorogoods
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Mar 11, 2021 07:59
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powderific posted:The thread has definitely covered this before, but what do people like for steel toe work boots? It's very personal. Everyone has a favorite and horror stories. I'm a redwing guy, but only a single model fits me well. I've got small ankles, which rules out most boots. I wear mine between 10 and 18 hours a day. When I worked on boats, I was in mine between 18 and 24 hours a day. Other brands worth looking at: Carolina, Danner, Chippewa, Ariat, Thorogood... Probably others. Do not buy them at Wal-Mart or a big box store. Go to a stop that carries working gear or only sells boots. Redwing has their own stores, and they know what they're doing in general. You'll need to try on a ton to find something that actually fits. A big thing is to make sure that the edge of the steel doesn't rub anywhere. They do take some time to fully break in, but the steel won't move. Another big factor is insoles. The ones that come in boots are very cheap and flat. I run aggressive ones from redwing with a deep heel cup and high arch support, and wouldn't have it any other way. Redwing stores have a measuring system that you stand on, and it'll show where you put pressure and if your arches are fallen. I dunno if they'd do it during the pandemic, but I sat down with a rep and literally tried on every pair of steel toe 6" boots in the store, many in 2 sizes and 2-3 widths. Even then, every time I bought new boots, I needed to try on a few sizes/widths to get the right fit, even though I was buying the same model number. One time, it's 10.5 EE, the next it's 11D. Protip: buy a boot dryer from Peet or redwing. Also, be prepared to spend $200+. My current pair retail for $325, and the insoles were another $40. Tires, mattresses, and shoes.
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Mar 11, 2021 12:59
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sharkytm posted:Protip: buy a boot dryer from Peet or redwing. Also, be prepared to spend $200+. My current pair retail for $325, and the insoles were another $40. Tires, mattresses, and shoes. All of this. And I've been buying Carolinas for the last....dunno...while. Used to be Danners but the last couple of pairs I got felt cheaper and fell apart quicker so I switched. That could have been a model-specific thing, I dunno. But always buy at a work clothes/uniform shop to avoid "badge engineered" versions of things like this.
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Mar 11, 2021 13:16
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Everything above, and seconding Thorogoods. I've got some 8" moc toes I got a few months ago to replace the 6" pair that lasted me 5 years (went through a lot of insoles though). I'm glad I got the 8" for what I'm doing now, but the 6" were better for what I was doing when I bought them (flat rate auto repair) If you're doing a lot of concrete-standing, wedge soles are a must IMO Pro tip for any work boot: experiment with different lacing methods to optimize the fit. I use what's called a "heel-lock" I think. Waxing your laces can help keep them tied and laced properly too
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Mar 11, 2021 15:20
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I've had wolverines and well as redwing which have both been good. Just don't get a waterproof shoe unless you absolutely need to. I did that once and it was an odor nightmare, I nearly had to keep them outside.
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Mar 11, 2021 15:33
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um excuse me posted:I've had wolverines and well as redwing which have both been good. Just don't get a waterproof shoe unless you absolutely need to. I did that once and it was an odor nightmare, I nearly had to keep them outside. BOOT. DRYER. Seriously. It works wonders. I keep mine in the bottom of my closet, and my wife (who is very sensitive to smells) doesn't mind. Once in a while, she'll mention that she can smell it, but that's usually in the dead of summer when they're soaked in sweat. Another pro tip, buy 2 pairs of you're wearing them 18+ hours a day, and rotate them onto the dryer.
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Mar 11, 2021 16:16
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Thanks for the advice all. Already have a boot dryer so that helps since I think I do need waterproof. Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and spend some time at the boot place.
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Mar 11, 2021 17:40
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I have to alternate pairs to avoid trench foot in the summer. I don’t have a dryer though. I also highly recommend throwing all your cotton socks away and wearing wool ones, just generally but especially if you have stinky dogs.
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Mar 11, 2021 18:01
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Big Taint posted:I also highly recommend throwing all your cotton socks away and wearing wool ones, just generally. This is a pro tip.
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Mar 11, 2021 18:30
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Wool ones need babying when washing them or they shrink.
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Mar 11, 2021 18:35
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