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cruft posted:I'm pretty sure Ruby has Demodectic mange. If I posted a photo of my dog's head, would anybody in here be able to give an opinion? I know it's not the same as a vet, but our vet in saying it's ringworm and we're not seeing itching or redness, I guess I'm looking for a second opinion FROM THE INTERNET. If you want to post a picture just use [timg] tags so it's not all huge.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:59
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Professor Wayne posted:I didn't bring her home right then because she's aggressive towards other females, and there are a lot of dogs in my neighborhood. Can you get any more details on her aggressiveness? Some dogs can be fine on leash but can't go to the dog park or live with another dog. Some dogs are the opposite. Some dogs want to fight everything.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:01
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GoodBee posted:Can you get any more details on her aggressiveness? Some dogs can be fine on leash but can't go to the dog park or live with another dog. Some dogs are the opposite. Some dogs want to fight everything.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:20
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GoodBee posted:Did the vet take a sample to confirm? I don't know if that is standard or necessary though. My cat had ringworm when she was a kitten almost 18 years ago. Hers wasn't presenting as a ring, just a rough scaly patch, but they took a scraping and we treated for ringworm. No, because a ringworm test was an extra $130 on top of the $290 for all the bloodwork. We're treating her for ringworm with a shampoo, since we suspect kidney problems that preclude a pill for ringworm. But... Yeah, I suspect mange here. To be fair, this dog appears to have much bigger issues than the skin. Which is why I'm not asking THE INTERNET for advice about renal failure. 😉 Here's a photo https://i.imgur.com/DHbBgfI.jpg
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Mar 1, 2021 19:40
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Professor Wayne posted:She's newish, so the people running the shelter couldn't tell me much. They say she's "gotten into it" with only one other dog at the shelter. While we were getting ready to walk, she was fine until she got about 5 feet from another dog. She just suddenly lunged, no snarling or barking, and she calmed down after I moved her away. Once we were actually walking and keeping about 10 feet between us, there were no problems. But I kept her on a really tight leash. Apollo, my 4 year old GSD/husky mix (maybe) has hit a point where if he sees another dog while walking he will bark and try to lunge over there. He's completely fine at the dog park or any environment where he's free to run up and say hi to the dog, but because of covid I don't go near people...so he's figured that they're all enemies, and he will protect me.  As I am fortunate to live in a neighborhood with lots of sidewalks and not many people out walking, my tactic is to usually cross the road or turn around and try to keep him away from other dogs. I also keep a tight leash and I've gotten earbuds so I can walk hands-free while listening to whatever. If I'm cornered somewhere or we have to cross, I either hurry or make him sit and wait. He will sit! Which is key! But he is going to want to spring up and go again if I don't keep him there so, yeah. I should start bringing treats out and rewarding him for sitting.
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Mar 1, 2021 19:54
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cruft posted:No, because a ringworm test was an extra $130 on top of the $290 for all the bloodwork. We're treating her for ringworm with a shampoo, since we suspect kidney problems that preclude a pill for ringworm. But... Yeah, I suspect mange here. Yeah, I definitely didn't pay that much for a test. They did a UV light test first and it glowed, so probably ringworm. Then they took a sample. They didn't send anything out so they probably just did something like stick the scraping under a microscope to see if it was a fungus or mite. We did a shampoo and antifungal dip weekly for about six weeks and it cleared up.
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Mar 1, 2021 20:35
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I think I'm going to bring a friend to see the pup next weekend before I commit to anything. I need an objective opinion.
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Mar 2, 2021 02:36
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Professor Wayne posted:I think I'm going to bring a friend to see the pup next weekend before I commit to anything. I need an objective opinion. That's not a bad idea. Our pittie/boxer rescue is the sweetest girl ever to all humans, if way too eager to jump on them in her excitement, but we learned pretty quickly that she's also quite reactive. A lot of the time what people frame as "aggression" is more accurately thought of as reactivity, and often stems more from anxiety, fear, or frustration than an actual desire to hurt other dogs. It can still be scary, overwhelming, and potentially dangerous if you end up in a situation where that reaction escalates out of control, but once you know the underlying stressor, it becomes easier to manage and address through training. The questions are really how severe her reactivity is, how hard it would be to keep her surprise run-ins with other dogs during training to a minimum, and how willing and able you are to commit to giving her the training she might need in order to learn how to chill out some. (We take our girl to the dog park. She doesn't go to the dog park, she just goes and sits outside and watches the other dogs while making Tina Belcher noises and getting showered with treats, but it works astonishingly well.) Quorum fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Mar 2, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 05:38
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https://twitter.com/patrickgaley/status/1366413478437748740
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Mar 2, 2021 16:07
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The digging....oh, my....the digging....it must stop. How did you break your puppy of the digging habit? Rhodesian's aren't usually diggers, but Nala is absolutely tearing the poo poo out of my lawn, and her latest 'masterpiece' is a solid 12x12x12 hole
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Mar 2, 2021 17:29
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My hound dog loves digging. She's got some favorite spots that I just let her go to town on, then I fill them, then she digs them up again. My yard was an absolute disaster when I moved in so it's not hard to work on another area and just let her dig a pit. She hasn't tried to dig under the fence but she does like to dig a hole and then lay in it.
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Mar 2, 2021 17:45
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Gobi has been trying his damndest to dig clean through my couch. He hasn’t succeeded yet, but I know as soon as he makes one clean tear in the fabric it’s going to be a massacre.
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Mar 2, 2021 18:07
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Mar 5, 2021 01:41
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Saw a couple of people post about leash reactivity/dog aggression. You really need to keep a loose leash with your dog when you walk by other dogs. The second you keep that leash tight, your dog feels that you are nervous as a result they become nervous. That creates the reactivity. Keep that leash loose and give lots of praise while walking past dogs so you can shift the focus. I have seen so many owners create the on leash aggression/leash reactivity because people either avoid the situation or become so nervous and tense up on the leash.
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Mar 6, 2021 02:02
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DoYouHasaRabbit posted:Saw a couple of people post about leash reactivity/dog aggression. You really need to keep a loose leash with your dog when you walk by other dogs. The second you keep that leash tight, your dog feels that you are nervous as a result they become nervous. That creates the reactivity. Keep that leash loose and give lots of praise while walking past dogs so you can shift the focus. My dog will run at another dog if given a loose leash though. So how do you balance that?
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Mar 6, 2021 02:12
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Dango Bango posted:My dog will run at another dog if given a loose leash though. So how do you balance that? I will also just bump into dogs or tap them near their shoulders so they get out of the tunnel vision of staring dogs down and give them praise and treats when they shift focus. I may get poo poo for this but I do work at a "Dog bootcamp" as you all call it and use pinch collars and e-collars everyday. Yes, people who do not know how to use them or are not educated give them a very bad reputation. And yes I think not every dog needs them but I think a lot of dogs do benefit from it if they are trained right. Treats and praise go but so far unless you are consistent 100 percent of the time and you are treating/praising within 1.3 seconds of the desired behavior happening.
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Mar 6, 2021 02:31
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DoYouHasaRabbit posted:Personally I would start putting a heel command on a pinch collar or even a martingale. Heel means walking on the left or right side generally the dogs head would be around your kneecap without them pulling. Once the dog knows the command you start saying heel when you see the dog down the street so the dog is focused on its command not the dog. Treat and praise as you go by that dog successfully in a heel. This is bad advice to give people with reactive dogs. Using a corrective collar on a dog that is anxious or barky when it sees another dog is just escalating the problem and you risk redirection. Loose leash walking is a fine skill to teach and I don't have problems with prong collars in general but they are not a tool I would be comfortable using on a reactive dog or recommending to people I'm not working with directly. A head halter would be a better tool with less risk of unintended consequences in this situation.
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Mar 6, 2021 02:34
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Instant Jellyfish posted:This is bad advice to give people with reactive dogs. Using a corrective collar on a dog that is anxious or barky when it sees another dog is just escalating the problem and you risk redirection. Loose leash walking is a fine skill to teach and I don't have problems with prong collars in general but they are not a tool I would be comfortable using on a reactive dog or recommending to people I'm not working with directly. A head halter would be a better tool with less risk of unintended consequences in this situation. I literally had a lesson with a 160 lb Anatolian shepherd a couple of days ago and sometimes a head halter would not work for her since she was lunging. I work with all different types of collars but people misuse them. And no I am not telling people to go buy these collars without someone who is educated and can work with their dog and them so they can use them correctly. I do think people who reward the dog's anxiousness and nervousness will exacerbate the problem while creating a learned behavior.
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Mar 6, 2021 02:52
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DoYouHasaRabbit posted:I do think people who reward the dog's anxiousness and nervousness will exacerbate the problem while creating a learned behavior. That's literally not possible. You can't reinforce fear and turning to you to get a cookie is incompatible with losing their mind barking at another dog. None of what you are suggesting requires a corrective collar and while I'm glad you're helping people in person with your reactive dogs I don't think suggesting that people's leash reactivity problems would be solved if they just taught a strict heel is particularly helpful, especially when paired with talking about tools that are known to exacerbate reactivity issues. Teaching an automatic check in when the dog feels pressure on the leash or cueing incompatible behaviors such as a heel if the dog is both competent enough in the behavior and in a headspace where he can listen are both good ideas! There's just no need to use corrections for any of it. There are absolutely dogs who will turn and snap at their handler if just "tap or bump" them when they are fixated, especially with people who aren't trainers who may not have the experience reading dogs that you have.
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Mar 6, 2021 03:12
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Seems to me like advocating for physical punishment to remove an annoying behaviour without actually improving the dog's condition (i.e. being fearful of other dogs):American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior posted:A major problem with using punishment is that it suppresses behavior temporarily but does not necessarily modify the underlying cause of the behavior Using it to learn a heel command, to somehow prevent fear and aggression, is ridiculous. Mr. Sickos fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Mar 6, 2021 |
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Mar 6, 2021 16:43
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Another note is that Apollo isn't reacting to my nerves/fear of other walkers - he's getting excited because there's a person with a DOG across the road and he wants to go say hi. And when normally I'd wave and possibly approach, now due to covid I'm not, so he goes "ah, there's something wrong" and swaps to protecting me by trying to warn them off. Which is adorable and not helpful. But he doesn't need corrective behavior - he needs to be reminded (with treats, as that's a higher value item than barking at an enemy) that I want him to be a good boy and sit.
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Mar 6, 2021 16:51
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If you aren't actively attaching your 3 week old puppies to fuckin' 220-volt lines to learn to heel are you even a hardcore dog trainer This thread has its problems but drat if you can't control a dog by a device on its head, no matter how large it is, then you don't need that dog. My 127 pound idiotic baby dane (yes, the 13 year old who has lived her life on PI) was stopped dead by a halti back in the day and I didn't even get pulled forward when she hit the end of the leash full blast the first time it was on. She just got spun around. Which is what it does. Which is why we use horse halters, not horse collars, to control horses. Those are a lot bigger than some dorky anatolian, by the way. Aversives don't work well in most situations.
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Mar 6, 2021 17:16
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Just over three weeks into puppy ownership, which puts Marlo at 19 weeks old. When I first got him he was afraid of everything, whereas now he has the confidence to walk outside and meet strangers. He had no socialization up to 16 weeks and is very submissive, yet energetic as a German Shorthaired Pointer. My current challenge is that he gets into moods as the day progresses. In the morning he tends to pay me a lot of attention, follows commands, and does not pull much on the leash. Sometime in the early afternoon it is like a switch is flipped and a lot of this goes out the window. I believe it is because he becomes overstimulated. I brainstormed some things I can do to remove or remove the stimulation inside the house. How can I help him with stimulation while we are on walks? Do I need to just walk him in circles around my house and bring him inside once he gets to that point of stimulation where he is pulling regardless of the cinch collar? Is there a way to help him baseline while we are out and about? He pays me almost no mind once we leave the house. Edit: I’ve been trying to train making eye contact with me in response to an attention cue noise, but he really struggles with it. I wonder if this has to do with how submissive he is?
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Mar 7, 2021 01:33
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vs Dinosaurs posted:Just over three weeks into puppy ownership, which puts Marlo at 19 weeks old. When I first got him he was afraid of everything, whereas now he has the confidence to walk outside and meet strangers. He had no socialization up to 16 weeks and is very submissive, yet energetic as a German Shorthaired Pointer. German shorthaired pointer! I grew up with one, they are awesome dogs, he saved the life of one of our cats. He very well might need a nap, obviously it's hard to give you advice since we can't see/interact with the dog, but often it is the case after a busy morning. As for attention, typically you're going to get around 30 minutes of good training time in (obviously not a hard and fast rule, our GSP could do 45-60 minutes when he was around a year old), then you need to switch gears to play/whatever else as a reward for good behavior during training, then after a bit you can go back. You should definitely be doing some training inside the house with the leash on, this will get him used to listening to you while on the leash which should hopefully translate outside. Just remember all this training is going to take time, some things will come fairly easy (sit/down etc), some things will take longer (leash manners are usually a long term training goal, though with a pup it might be easier); patience is a virtue, if you have children it will be similar 
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Mar 7, 2021 01:56
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Thanks for the reply James, we play Warzone together from time to time (my discord name is different) so I’ll give you a shout on this next time we are in the same channel! Didn’t realize that I should be aiming for such long training sessions, I think I’ve been going too light on the training for the last week or two. Good to know the leash stuff is a process and that it is OK to have him out even if he isn’t being on best behavior. I’m learning more and more every day about how to set him up for success, which seems to be the most important thing with puppies.
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Mar 7, 2021 02:01
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vs Dinosaurs posted:Thanks for the reply James, we play Warzone together from time to time (my discord name is different) so I’ll give you a shout on this next time we are in the same channel! disclaimer: I've never had a young pup, my youngest dog is our current one and he was 8ish months when we adopted him. 15-30 minutes of training is typically what I shot for when we first got Willie, depending on his willingness/attention.
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Mar 7, 2021 02:23
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So I’ve been taking Gobi (4 month old Shiba) to this puppy training class for about a month now, maybe 8 classes (and hundreds of dollars in), and he’s improved a lot in some things (barking very little now, actually able to interact normally with other dogs, learning some commands) but is still very difficult and oftentimes just shuts down during class and won’t even do stuff for treats, just pouts for a few minutes because he doesn’t like being told what to do. The owner lady is great and super helpful, but the assistant lady is a raging bitch. Every single class she has made numerous snide comments under her breath (but still easy for the class to hear), made it clear she either hates my dog or me, and literally blames Gobi for why problems. She’ll go to ever other dog/owner and praise them for what’s wrong, then gets to me and will be like “that’s not right” and walk off. One class Gobi was sitting quietly and another dog was barking at him across the room and she came over and, grabbed a big separation gate, and put it around Gobi saying “maybe this will help you calm down”. I’ve already paid for the classes, and they are generally helpful for socializing him (though all the tricks and commands I can just teach him at home). This post has no point other then to say gently caress that lady.
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Mar 7, 2021 03:39
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Holy poo poo, if you can't be nice in a puppy class you've got problems. It's totally normal for a puppy to get overly tired and stop working in a busy class. My puppy could handle about 30 minutes of our group classes before I needed to just break out a chew and let her decompress. I'm glad you're seeing progress but I agree, gently caress that lady.
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Mar 7, 2021 03:47
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Excited to join the ranks of dog-havers tomorrow! House is prepped, supplies etc are acquired, and we just went to the local pet store with the kids so they could each pick out a toy for him. Much like having a child, I am sure that the experience is the same - you can plan, prep, read, etc all you want but until you’re in it you don’t really know what it’s like.
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Mar 7, 2021 16:51
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devmd01 posted:Excited to join the ranks of dog-havers tomorrow! House is prepped, supplies etc are acquired, and we just went to the local pet store with the kids so they could each pick out a toy for him. This defines my experience for sure.
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Mar 7, 2021 17:53
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The biggest difference between puppies and kids, kids are immobile for a while. Puppies are fast right from the start, and they bite.
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Mar 7, 2021 18:28
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It's totally normal to think you've made a terrible mistake after bringing your puppy home so don't feel guilty if you have thoughts like that. They're worth the headache though!
Instant Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 18:48
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Thank you all for the advice about aggression. I went back to the rescue today and took the dog out on the group walk. She was a total sweetheart the entire time. The group walk was about 10 boxers total. She ignored all of them, but everyone kept pretty far apart. At one point, a family came the other way with some labradoodles. She clearly wanted to meet them, but there was no barking, growling, or any other signs of aggression I could see. I think as long as I'm smart about not letting dogs in her personal space until she's trained, we should be fine. I'm going to try to take her home later in the week. She seems smart and chill for a boxer puppy. I think it's going to be a good fit. I found out she was surrendered by her owner, but not why. Her previous owner named her after a droid from the new Stars Wars trilogy (D-O) and didn't treat an eye issue that caused it to have to be removed once she got to the rescue. Two big strikes against that guy...
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Mar 7, 2021 19:33
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Verman posted:The biggest difference between puppies and kids, kids are immobile for a while. Puppies are fast right from the start, and they bite. Also puppies involve a good deal more making GBS threads on the floor, in my experience. 
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Mar 7, 2021 19:56
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No puppy here, getting a 2 year old rescue Dane mix from the animal control shelter. Already housebroken but he is very rambunctious based on the meet and greets. We have a huge fenced in back yard and I enjoy trail running, so I am hoping to train him up to be a buddy I can take out into the woods for 3-5 miles.
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Mar 7, 2021 20:44
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devmd01 posted:Excited to join the ranks of dog-havers tomorrow! House is prepped, supplies etc are acquired, and we just went to the local pet store with the kids so they could each pick out a toy for him. When I first got my dog home from the pound I had a very intense moment of "oh god now what". It's weird just having a dog that is now ... there just all the time. The funniest part of a rescue dog is people asking you "what does she eat?" or "what toys does she like" and being like "I .... have no idea, I know nothing about this dog that is mine. I guess we'll do some trial and error."
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Mar 7, 2021 23:37
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My rescue is a 3-4 year old husky/GSD/australian cattle dog mix. He's really into sniffing out ground squirrel holes. Makes me wonder what he was up to in central california before his rescue. Are there prairie dog towns celebrating his capture?
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Mar 8, 2021 02:58
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Report on walking Apollo, my GSD/husky mix (maybe) who likes to bark at strangers: I dug out my treat fanny pack belt thing and put his kibble in it and went for a walk and we were able to walk normally and whenever I saw him reacting to another dog I held up a treat and he paid attention to me instead of them. Worked great! I will continue to test this. I used to wear this thing and provide treats when I first got him and phased it out but now that we're in a new neighborhood I wish I'd thought of this sooner. Either way he is extremely food oriented and will do anything if I will give him some food.
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Mar 8, 2021 16:57
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Amazing that kibble will capture his attention outside of the house, that is a win!
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Mar 8, 2021 17:17
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When my dog gets fixated on another dog is hard to get his attention. Kibble is "lol useless" territory and it usually requires a high value treat like chicken or cheese and sometimes he's not even interested in a treat.
Verman fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Mar 8, 2021 |
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Mar 8, 2021 19:13
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