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Rufio posted:I want to be able to use SketchUp to try and plan out my projects a little better. Does anyone have any recommended tutorials that focus on woodworking? I found this one useful for the kinds of things I’m building. https://youtu.be/r2K6gmcc_jA
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Mar 5, 2021 17:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Something as simple a board way longer then the TS fence held against the fence or clamped to it (support the entire edge of the work on both infeed and outfeed) will let you straight line rip one edge of a board. You can also make a similar jig like a taper jig that you clamp the work to. I have magazine article titled "Routering tapered flutes" which would be of interest to you. It seems to be on a bigger scale, but Im sure the jig could be modified? I didn't look at it too closely, just did a quick search for something you could use. How can I send the pdf to you? Do i have to buy PM capabilities?
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Mar 5, 2021 17:54
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Rufio posted:I want to be able to use SketchUp to try and plan out my projects a little better. Does anyone have any recommended tutorials that focus on woodworking? It's a couple versions out of date, but good enough: https://sketchupforwoodworkers.com/
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Mar 5, 2021 17:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Something as simple a board way longer then the TS fence held against the fence or clamped to it (support the entire edge of the work on both infeed and outfeed) will let you straight line rip one edge of a board. You can also make a similar jig like a taper jig that you clamp the work to. I read the article i have and your posts and you're on the right track, the leg or the jig need to be ramped. Using your full size template you need to measure the starting width and end width of the tapers then look at the profile of you bit and see where those widths correspond on the bits height, and that will be your ramp difference across the leg (there's a good diagram of this if my explanation doesn't make sense). Then it's just a matter of lining the jig up to where you want the flute to go. The magazine jig has a pivot point, but if your taper isn't that dramatic the pivot may be very far away so you might be better off just lining up a couple centre points on the jig and leg.
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Mar 5, 2021 18:11
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Rufio posted:I want to be able to use SketchUp to try and plan out my projects a little better. Does anyone have any recommended tutorials that focus on woodworking? Just start fooling around with it. You can learn how to do everything faster than it takes to watch a tutorial. The biggest trick/tip is to actually type in the piece dimensions instead of trying to drag everything to the exact size.
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Mar 5, 2021 18:27
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I read the article i have and your posts and you're on the right track, the leg or the jig need to be ramped. Using your full size template you need to measure the starting width and end width of the tapers then look at the profile of you bit and see where those widths correspond on the bits height, and that will be your ramp difference across the leg (there's a good diagram of this if my explanation doesn't make sense). Then it's just a matter of lining the jig up to where you want the flute to go. The magazine jig has a pivot point, but if your taper isn't that dramatic the pivot may be very far away so you might be better off just lining up a couple centre points on the jig and leg. Thanks-I would love to read the article. You can email it to me at kaiser.schnitzelsa at gmail.com I started carving them by hand and it's going faster than I thought (~5 min/flute) but I'd love to do it the fast way next time.
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Mar 5, 2021 18:31
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Rutibex posted:Oh nice! I've wanted to try my hand at this. Where do you get your pen blanks? I'm in Canada so I use penblanks.ca - according to the people who know best the better suppliers in the US are berea hardwoods (best kits), turners warehouse, exotic blanks, and at the lower end (though still perfect good) is PSI/ penn state industries. Careful though, it's surprisingly addictive... i have a bunch i haven't photographed and a whole lot I haven't turned yet!
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Mar 5, 2021 22:40
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Guitarchitect posted:I'm in Canada so I use penblanks.ca - according to the people who know best the better suppliers in the US are berea hardwoods (best kits), turners warehouse, exotic blanks, and at the lower end (though still perfect good) is PSI/ penn state industries. Lots of exotic hardwood suppliers in the US have all kinds of different turning blanks available in various different sizes, but they don't include all the 'pen' stuff, they are just the wood. D&D Hardwoods - https://www.dndhardwoodsonline.com/search?searchwords=turning+blank&search_searchbox= Gilmer Wood - https://www.gilmerwood.com/categories/40-turning-blanks/products Goby Walnut & Western Hardwoods - https://gobywalnut.com/collections/turning-blocks Rarewoods USA - https://www.rarewoodsusa.com/shop/filters/piece-type/turning-blanks/_stock_status/instock/ Domex Hardwoods - https://www.domexhardwoods.com/catalog/turning-stock/pen-blanks Bell Forest - https://www.bellforestproducts.com/exotic-wood-blanks/ Cook Woods - https://www.cookwoods.com/collections/pen-blanks There are many more, but I'll let you google them instead of me hunting for their links, here is a list from the model ship-building community and generally anyone that supplies woods that we use also supplies pen blanks. List includes at least some of the ones above. All Righteous Woods Bod Nosen Colonial Hardwoods, Inc. CookWoods Forest Products Gilmer Wood Company Griffin Exotic Wood--High Quality Exotic Woods Groffslumberr hearnehardwoods.com- Kettle Moraine Hardwoods, Inc., Hartford, WI Ocooch Hardwoods Rare Woods USA Rockler.com S.H. Goode & Sons Workshop Keim Lumber Tropical Exotic Hardwoods - tehwoods.com woodcraft.com Woodfinder® Marketplace Woodworkers Source for Imported, Rare, Specialty, Exotic Wood
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Mar 5, 2021 22:59
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The Locator posted:Lots of exotic hardwood suppliers in the US have all kinds of different turning blanks available in various different sizes, but they don't include all the 'pen' stuff, they are just the wood. Yeah I should have specified, my links were just kit+blank (since OP was looking to get started). The US is definitely light years ahead of us for all kinds of turning blanks! There are tonnes of guys on Etsy doing interesting casting tii (like Wine Country Woodworks) - blank making is an entire hobby unto itself!
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Mar 6, 2021 14:14
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Do they have blanks that you can drop a Pilot Fineliner into?
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Mar 6, 2021 15:47
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Blistex posted:Do they have blanks that you can drop a Pilot Fineliner into? When they call them blanks, they are just 3/4" square pieces of wood, around 5" long. Out of that you could probably make a "sleeve" for a fineliner but it'll be hefty. There are methods for making sharpie refill holders too, but they are pretty advanced.
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Mar 7, 2021 00:27
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I'm planning a large wall of shelving. I found an old "Woodworking Projects" book from the early 80s at my parents', and one of the modular shelving projects looked nice, so I sketchup'd it. It's all 3/4" plywood (red oak ply pictured), and I have a couple questions. 1. Any advice in general about working with larger scale projects? This would be the biggest I've worked on. 2. The book mentions a sabre or crosscut saw for those 3/4" x 5" notches in the uprights, but I have neither. What would you use to cut these notches?   (The blob at the bottom left is a radiator, and top right is an outlet.)
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Mar 7, 2021 05:50
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I had to remake the template holder for the pantorouter. The old 12mm plywood I used was too lovely and caused the whole thing to bend so the template did not sit square to the pantograph follower. I rebult it using 18mm new plywood instead. Much beefier this way too. Moved it 6mm back to compensate for the added thickness of the thicker plywood. 
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Mar 7, 2021 11:30
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epswing posted:I'm planning a large wall of shelving. I found an old "Woodworking Projects" book from the early 80s at my parents', and one of the modular shelving projects looked nice, so I sketchup'd it. It's all 3/4" plywood (red oak ply pictured), and I have a couple questions. What kind of saw do you have?
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Mar 7, 2021 14:11
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epswing posted:
My first choice for those slots would be making a router template and routing them (and then squaring the corners with a chisel) Second, much worse option would be a jigsaw, but you aren't gonna love the cut quality. Final option would be to make a saw guide and use a backless crosscut saw like a Kataba
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Mar 7, 2021 14:51
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GEMorris posted:My first choice for those slots would be making a router template and routing them (and then squaring the corners with a chisel) You could also do it with a dado stack (squaring the end by hand) as long as you have a crosscut sled. epswing posted:1. Any advice in general about working with larger scale projects? This would be the biggest I've worked on. Get a laser level (a cheap one will work fine) if you don't already have one and you don't want to end up hating yourself when you try to get all of those slots on the wall lined up correctly. Also you (hopefully) already did before you sketched it but check to make sure your studs are where you think they are before you build this whole thing. I have an old house where walls have been moved and changed and replaced which has left me with non-standard stud spacings and it would be a pain in the rear end to build that whole thing and then realize you can't attach it to the wall where you thought you could. I did not enjoy discovering this while trying to hang some floating shelves.
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Mar 7, 2021 15:13
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Stultus Maximus posted:What kind of saw do you have? Table saw, circular saw, jigsaw, router. GEMorris posted:My first choice for those slots would be making a router template and routing them (and then squaring the corners with a chisel) Yeah, I was leaning towards router. The pieces are big, so I think I want to bring the tool to the workpiece, rather than the workpiece to the tool (rules out table saw). Jigsaw seems too 'freehand', like you said. By "router template" do you mean something like this? Sounds like I'd need a flush trim bit with "top" bearing like these. Wallet posted:You could also do it with a dado stack (squaring the end by hand) as long as you have a crosscut sled. I do have a crosscut sled, but I don't have a good way to support an 8 foot workpiece (it's a fair size sled but not that wide). Also I don't have a dado stack at the moment, but even if I did, would I be able to make it exactly the width I need (plywood is "almost" 3/4")? Never owned/used a dado stack before. In terms of leveling, I was going to mount the first upright to the wall (leaving a bit of clearance from the floor/ceiling, assuming my floor/ceiling isn't straight, so I can adjust the others a bit up/down if necessary), then all subsequent uprights I would slip a straight edge in the notches and put a level of top of that. Good/bad idea? Wallet posted:Also you (hopefully) already did before you sketched it but check to make sure your studs are where you think they are before you build this whole thing. I have an old house where walls have been moved and changed and replaced which has left me with non-standard stud spacings and it would be a pain in the rear end to build that whole thing and then realize you can't attach it to the wall where you thought you could. I did not enjoy discovering this while trying to hang some floating shelves. Hah, yes, located the studs, know where it's going. I've burned myself on that one before, too. epswing fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 15:32
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Honestly, I think the easiest and in the long run most beneficial option would beGEMorris posted:Final option would be to make a saw guide and use a backless crosscut saw like a Kataba I'm primarily a power tools guy but there are a lot of situations where just pulling out a good hand saw is quicker and easier.
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Mar 7, 2021 15:35
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Stultus Maximus posted:Honestly, I think the easiest and in the long run most beneficial option would be I don't have such a saw, and I'm having trouble visualizing what this saw guide would look like. Also, cutting 46 identical 5" deep notches by hand doesn't sound fun. Would it really be quicker?
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Mar 7, 2021 15:40
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epswing posted:I do have a crosscut sled, but I don't have a good way to support an 8 foot workpiece (it's a fair size sled but not that wide). Also I don't have a dado stack at the moment, but even if I did, would I be able to make it exactly the width I need (plywood is "almost" 3/4")? Never owned/used a dado stack before. epswing posted:In terms of leveling, I was going to mount the first upright to the wall (leaving a bit of clearance from the floor/ceiling, assuming my floor/ceiling isn't straight, so I can adjust the others a bit up/down if necessary), then all subsequent uprights I would slip a straight edge in the notches and put a level of top of that. Good/bad idea? A laser level will project a line on the wall that's (ostensibly) level which makes it easier but I've certainly leveled stuff like this that way. If your notches aren't perfectly square it can gently caress with you which is why I'd use a laser. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 15:43
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Do the uprights have to be a single piece? Might be easier to cut a whole bunch of equal sized pieces then secure them 3/4" apart to simulate the notched?
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Mar 7, 2021 16:01
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TS/dado stack does not sound like the right tool for this application, but you asked about cutting dados for undersized plywood, and yes, dado stacks can do that. Dado stacks typically come with several 1/8" chippers and a 1/16" chipper, and lots of them come with a 3/32" chipper. You can also use shims to dial in a specific width, but 3/4" plywood typically will work with the two outer blades, 3 1/8" chippers, and the 3/32" chipper. If the set doesn't have a 3/32", the 1/16" and some shims will work.
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Mar 7, 2021 17:19
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epswing posted:Table saw, circular saw, jigsaw, router. Saber saw is the old timey name for jigsaw. Bring a jigsaw and that's how you learn freehand. Although from that picture, it looks like the side supports are (or easily could be) pieced in and secured to the backs rather than notched, which would simplify things for you. So no need even for that. Just cut them square and roll.
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Mar 7, 2021 17:24
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Do the uprights have to be a single piece? Might be easier to cut a whole bunch of equal sized pieces then secure them 3/4" apart to simulate the notched? Yeah, this is the way I’d do it.
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Mar 7, 2021 18:58
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Do the uprights have to be a single piece? Might be easier to cut a whole bunch of equal sized pieces then secure them 3/4" apart to simulate the notched? This is probably the easiest course particularly if you're going to use them to store knickknacks and poo poo like in the photo. If you are planning to cover them in books or something and you still want all of the slots so that they are reconfigurable I might be worried about how well the uprights will hold. The instructions say to use metal corner braces on the inside corners of the uprights "if desired" but I'm having a hard time imagining that not looking like poo poo.
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Mar 7, 2021 19:58
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The best piece of advice I can give you on a large structural project is make sure your walls are straight first. Since they probably aren't. And not just straight up and down, but they'll probably have covex/concave places along them too.
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Mar 7, 2021 20:06
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Wallet posted:This is probably the easiest course particularly if you're going to use them to store knickknacks and poo poo like in the photo. If you are planning to cover them in books or something and you still want all of the slots so that they are reconfigurable I might be worried about how well the uprights will hold. The instructions say to use metal corner braces on the inside corners of the uprights "if desired" but I'm having a hard time imagining that not looking like poo poo. Yes, definitely looking to hold real things, pots/pans/books/etc. Re-reading now, I’m not clear on where exactly these brackets would go. Vertically between the back and the sides of the uprights, or horizontally between the shelves and the sides of the uprights? If the latter, the brackets would follow the shelves, if reconfigured? serious gaylord posted:The best piece of advice I can give you on a large structural project is make sure your walls are straight first. Since they probably aren't. And not just straight up and down, but they'll probably have covex/concave places along them too. The walls aren’t straight (of course), but they’re not bad either. I figure as long as the notches are level and aligned with each other, minor bends in the wall won’t matter too much? As in, the shelves can bend a little bit to fit, if needed. Right?  I dunno, I guess I’m a little worried, but I’m also aware that if walls had to be perfect, nothing would ever get done. epswing fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Mar 7, 2021 |
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Mar 7, 2021 20:09
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Speaking of crummy uneven walls, lately been doing a bit of meta-woodworking in that I've been working on my wood shop itself and redoing the walls. Had some pros do the drywall work and paint. Started off doing the demo work myself but when I got to the area around a crawlspace and the water main I realized I was in over my head and called a contractor.  I've been using wood slats from Home Depot, like the way they look. Used them to redo the walls of my cellar area but this time I'm remilling each one to be flat on the back and perfect rectangles so they fit together seamlessly (hopefully)  Progress has been good so far, this is the wall where the miter station will go. Eventually going to make that long crawlspace into a lumber storage thingy of some sort, I think  Second wall has a nasty concave part to the left, dips down more than half an inch. House is 121 years old now and there isn't a single goddamn straight or rectangular surface anywhere. It made it so I couldn't use any short boards on the left so the wall has a weird effect where board ends wound up around the same middle area. You can tell inspector Cassie here is not impressed.  Put in some extra effort on the edge and bevel cut the ends to fit together, really like how it turned out. I figure I'm going to be down here a lot and the extra effort is just making things a bit nicer for my future self.  Between those two parts I'm about halfway done. Itching to finish all this since as long as the shop is like this I can't work on other things! Plan after this is: * real-deal dust collection system, my shop vac ain't cutting it * long miter station with lots of shelves for storage * french cleats above that, with all the little custom holders and shelves I dare to imagine (really looking forward to this part) And maybe a little nook for a dog bed so Cassie can hang out when I'm doing hand tool work and it's not so noisy.
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Mar 8, 2021 01:30
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Fortaleza posted:
What wood slats are those from HD? I have a project in mind that could use something like that. For dust collection, is this your basement? I have a basement shop and keeping dust contained is always an issue. I've had to nearly box in the whole space with plastic sheeting and keep an air filter running all the time when I'm working. Otherwise dust finds its way into the main living space. I see at least one window, maybe you could make a vent to the outside and pull a slight vacuum on the whole room?
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Mar 8, 2021 02:12
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Uthor posted:Finished my tea box. Somewhere under the clamps is a tea box, thanks for the inspiration  
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Mar 8, 2021 02:56
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:What wood slats are those from HD? I have a project in mind that could use something like that. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-Weaber-1-2-in-x-4-in-x-4-ft-Weathered-Hardwood-Board-8-Piece-27862/207078140 The remilling part of this project has been tedious but it’s really paid off. Each box is 8 slats and you’re lucky if there’s not one that’s really curved and goofed up. oXDemosthenesXo posted:
It’s part of my basement, yeah. It’s actually the far end of my basement, gotta go through the cellar then the utility room then up the stairs to the mud room before reaching a living area so I’m not to worried about that. Plan is to get one of those wall mounted collection systems from rockler in a far corner and have one hose go to the miter saw then another up in the rafters that can droop down in the center of the shop when using the jointer or the table saw. Stuff it doesn’t get can be vacuumed or swept the old fashioned way, I don’t plan on using the power tools much other than cutting rough lengths.
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Mar 8, 2021 02:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:Saber saw is the old timey name for jigsaw. Bring a jigsaw and that's how you learn freehand. Although from that picture, it looks like the side supports are (or easily could be) pieced in and secured to the backs rather than notched, which would simplify things for you. So no need even for that. Just cut them square and roll. When I was growing up saber saw referred to a reciprocating saw. People stopped using that term when they started calling them sawzall.
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Mar 8, 2021 06:11
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Circling back to jointerchat, what's the easiest way to get a nice straight edge for a jig if I don't already have one? Is the factory edge of plywood straight enough? The next thing I can think of is try to get a single board jointed by a local wood shop or maybe someone like Woodcraft who has teaching tools at their store.
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Mar 8, 2021 06:23
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Circling back to jointerchat, what's the easiest way to get a nice straight edge for a jig if I don't already have one? Is the factory edge of plywood straight enough? Straight edge + circular saw works well and is pretty easy.
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Mar 8, 2021 06:24
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CommonShore posted:Straight edge + circular saw works well and is pretty easy. That was my first thought but I don't have a straight edge thats both long enough or straight enough. I want to make the jig at least 6ft long.
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Mar 8, 2021 06:51
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:That was my first thought but I don't have a straight edge thats both long enough or straight enough. I want to make the jig at least 6ft long. I ended up buying a long level that has been working pretty well for me as a straight edge.
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Mar 8, 2021 11:36
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I love my big framing square. Some times i pretend its the metal boomerang from Mad Max
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Mar 8, 2021 13:41
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Uthor posted:I ended up buying a long level that has been working pretty well for me as a straight edge. I went to the store to buy a long level but then I found that they sold actual guide edges for circular saws for cheaper, so now I have an 8 foot straight edge for my circular saw. then I got a 5 foot level from an auction for $5.
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Mar 8, 2021 16:03
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serious gaylord posted:The best piece of advice I can give you on a large structural project is make sure your walls are straight first. Since they probably aren't. And not just straight up and down, but they'll probably have covex/concave places along them too.  why didn't I check as I built my aquarium stand
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Mar 8, 2021 16:07
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The large levels can be pretty expensive. For my long straight edge, I use an 8ft stick of angle iron.
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Mar 8, 2021 16:56
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