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Munkeylord posted:Eh, yea it's not cheap to fix that. It's also not an immediate thing you need to worry about. But you should fix it sooner rather than later. This is probably bad advice to some. Replacement rebuild driveshafts in Australia are 100 to 140 dollars. You dont need a special tool to knock the pin out, a phillips head screwdriver of 4mm will do it perfectly well. There is a small bevel on one side of hte hole, you knock it out on the reverse side. 32mm socket for the driveshaft nut that will need a fair bit of heft to loosen, resonably straightforward job - I can do it in about ten minutes, five if I'm really going for it. quote:Can I drive on it until the weekend? Yeah no problem. You can drive it somewhat longer if need be quote:and have changed clutches and brake pads with my dad Oh well if you have changed a clutch, changing a driveshaft is no real issue at all apart from the leverage you need on the 32 mm nut. Here's how I do it in general - .05) - loosen 32mm driveshaft nut 1) Lift car 2) Jackstands 3) Wheel off 4) Remove split pin for the drive shaft 5) Remove the 14mm bolt that holds hte ball joint to the front hub. 6) Set a piece of wood on control arm, use a hammer to thwack the arm loose. 7) Grab a hold of the hub, use it to pull out drive shaft from gearbox side 8) Remove driveshaft nut 9) pull out drive shaft. To install reverse procedure but with giving the ball joint and it's hole a clean and anti seize coating.
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Mar 10, 2021 01:54
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I have been told it's not difficult to change the transmission mount on a AT 3.6R outback. true/false
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Mar 10, 2021 02:37
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Wasabi the J posted:I have been told it's not difficult to change the transmission mount on a AT 3.6R outback. True
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Mar 10, 2021 02:39
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Would I be able to pull it off with a basic ratchet set, impact driver, floor jack, and jackstands/wheel ramps? I don't have a way of hoisting the engine, does this complicate things, and/or is it possible to wiggle in the engine mounts?
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Mar 10, 2021 02:53
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Replacement rebuild driveshafts in Australia are 100 to 140 dollars. You dont need a special tool to knock the pin out, a phillips head screwdriver of 4mm will do it perfectly well. There is a small bevel on one side of hte hole, you knock it out on the reverse side. i actually have exactly this problem and was wondering about it, thanks!
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Mar 10, 2021 03:04
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Wasabi the J posted:Would I be able to pull it off with a basic ratchet set, impact driver, floor jack, and jackstands/wheel ramps? Transmission mount is basically taking off the transmission crossmember so apart from somehting to keep the rear of the transmission from falling down, it's a basic tools job. Engine mounts are a bit more complex and TBH I havent tried to change them with the motor still in place. But you def need to either drop the front crossmember or raise the motor so thats not really a "same time" job as the transmission mount
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Mar 10, 2021 03:17
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Thanks for understanding what I was gonna possibly gently caress up lmao. Holy poo poo I should have changed this mount years ago! I thought the H6 was just rumbly. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Mar 11, 2021 |
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Mar 10, 2021 16:59
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Naked Bear posted:Honestly, I would probably just put on a new boot and squirt in some fresh grease. That's a heck of a lot less expensive and probably sufficient for what looks like a fairly recent tear. Plus, that way you don't go down the rabbit hole of finding axles that don't suck. I agree! Especially if you don't hear it yet -- if you get a click-click-click when turning the wheel to full lock (and while moving, like in a U-turn) then it's too late to really approach fixing on your own.
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Mar 10, 2021 17:03
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Replacement rebuild driveshafts in Australia are 100 to 140 dollars. You dont need a special tool to knock the pin out, a phillips head screwdriver of 4mm will do it perfectly well. There is a small bevel on one side of hte hole, you knock it out on the reverse side. Awesome, thanks! Are (BH) driveshafts off a 2 or 2.5 litre compatible with a 2005 (BP) 3.0 litre? And between auto/manual? My neighbour is wrecking a BH but not sure of the specifics.
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Mar 11, 2021 05:07
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enojy posted:I agree! Especially if you don't hear it yet -- if you get a click-click-click when turning the wheel to full lock (and while moving, like in a U-turn) then it's too late to really approach fixing on your own. oh e: wait, isn't he the engine mounts guy? i have a cv with a boot falling apart and that clicks. can i not replace that axle on my own?
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Mar 11, 2021 05:29
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I went with a new boot as I wasn't getting a clicking sound. I watched this very helpful video on youtube: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bf8uRTjfxsk I then realised mine doesn't have all that lovely space, but instead has an exhaust cat directly in the way. He's working on a 4 cylinder's left side, mine's 6 cylinder and on the right. Anyway, I got up to where the metal clip from the cup comes out. The problem was I couldn't get the shaft out at all to be able to do the roller circlip. I turned the wheel as far as I could before the brake line got taut, and the shaft wasn't coming far enough out. It looks like something's shifted maybe, where the shaft meets the transmission. Here's left and right for comparison. Left (front of car = bottom of picture)  Right (front of car = left of picture)  Two things jump out at me: 1. The Right one is half an inch or so exposed beyond the transmission. Not sure if it shifted before I dropped out the camber bolt or what but it's not going back in even with steering straight and bolts done up. But that shiny machined look suggests it's recent? 2. The chunk of casting missing where it meets the transmission. Don't know if it'd have an effect. I do know that didn't happen while I was working on it though. Does anyone have any ideas of if those are major issues? As I can't get the shaft out, I'm going to take it to the garage to get the boot changed. That exposed bit also makes me kinda nervous. Plus the vehicle needs re-inspecting as that's expired too. So I'll let them handle it. Bonus is not having to clean up all the grease. I did learn from this though, I knew notging about the CV joint before. I would be happy to attempt it in a better circumstance. I learnt that I need a jack that goes higher, so I can set the stands higher, my body touches the car when I'm under it.
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Mar 14, 2021 01:38
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I had planned on keeping my Impreza a few more years, but my wife’s lease was up and she replaced her Outback with a new Forester, and now I have new car envy. I like my car though, and I don’t really know what I’d replace it with anyway.
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Mar 14, 2021 02:37
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So keep it and enjoy saving money for a while?
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Mar 14, 2021 02:40
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Took the Forester XT out for a drive today. Had a WRX driving along the same route as me from behind as we make our way to the Parkway where we dodge and duck our way through the Sunday traffic. After several miles on the Parkway and I'm about to take my exit, the WRX slowly passes me and I see the driver throwing devil horns.  Of course, I was driving to my grandma's funeral so this was a good way to start the day. 
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Mar 15, 2021 00:55
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Update on my post: simplefish posted:
Crossposting here: monsterzero posted:Oof, looks like you've dislocated the axle shaft (12, below) out of the front diff. That can happen if you unbolt the hub from the strut and let it drop while the driveshaft/axle roll pin is still holding the axle to the axle shaft. Is it a case of just shoving it back in?
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Mar 15, 2021 13:14
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That isn't the right drawing. The stub is part of the axle on your car, it just uses a little c-clip to stay in place. It appears there's a big dent in the sealing surface there though?
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Mar 15, 2021 17:18
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jamal posted:That isn't the right drawing. The stub is part of the axle on your car, it just uses a little c-clip to stay in place. It appears there's a big dent in the sealing surface there though? 100% on me. Didn't realize his wasn't a 2nd gen.
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Mar 15, 2021 17:26
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Boys who love boys
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That dent really threw me too - I wasn't sure if that was part of the stub or the axle, it kinda looked like maybe someone used a punch to make sure it wouldn't come off, for some bizarro-land reason. But then I saw the green and realized it's an OEM Subaru axle.  My best guess is either OP managed to ding it JUST RIGHT trying to pry it out, or someone replaced it previously with an actual OEM axle, using a 2nd gen OB/3rd gen Legacy shop manual, couldn't find the roll pin (... since it doesn't exist on a 3rd gen OB), shrugged, and dinged it with a punch to make sure it won't come off.  That ding is just too perfect, it has to have come from a punch.Speaking of... BRB, using sketchy Harbor Freight tools to cut a folded-over nail out of my LF 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 19:18
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jamal posted:That isn't the right drawing. The stub is part of the axle on your car, it just uses a little c-clip to stay in place. It appears there's a big dent in the sealing surface there though? Is the c-clip is internal to the diff or external to it? If it's moved has the c-clip been lost inside the diff ready to chew it up? The arm did drop quite suddenly when I removed the bolt below the cam bolt. That dent looks is on the underside. I'm guessing the two things are related. Honestly I'm willing to take a chance on the dent if I won't grenade the diff.
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Mar 15, 2021 20:40
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Anyone out there with early '90s 4EATs, what kind of transmission fluid are you using? The FSM specifies Dexron II, which I know isn't made anymore, but doesn't specify which version of Dexron II it was, and while I understand Dexron 6 is supposed to be backwards compatible it's also thinner and I don't know if that's a good thing or bad thing. It's going in the SVX, and I don't want to make any mistakes with regards to the transmission which has earned a reputation for less than flawless reliability. Right now it's a bit low, but eventually I'm going to have to drop the pan and replace the gasket because it's leaking.
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Mar 15, 2021 21:40
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simplefish posted:I went with a new boot as I wasn't getting a clicking sound. Oh okay so it's a earlier gearbox where the driveshaft cup has an internal c-clip to hold it into place kind of like the rear does. The dent is.... interesting. No, that shaft absolutly should not be in that position and that needs to be fixed now - the gearbox oil is going to leave the gearbox. However this stood out quote:The chunk of casting missing where it meets the transmission. Missing....?
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Mar 15, 2021 23:55
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Oh okay so it's a earlier gearbox where the driveshaft cup has an internal c-clip to hold it into place kind of like the rear does. The dent is.... interesting. No, that shaft absolutly should not be in that position and that needs to be fixed now - the gearbox oil is going to leave the gearbox. Good point about it being "missing", I'll have another check around the garage floor. It could be related to the dent. The cup on the shaft that the rollers go into does indeed have a clip inside going round the edge. As for getting the shaft fixed now, do you think it'd be safe to try to push back in? Alternative is roll it onto the street then get it put on a truck and taken to the garage, but... $$$
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Mar 16, 2021 00:13
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I got my SVX home today, with a laundry list of stuff to do from the shop. The Throttle Position Sensor seems to be Schroedinger's TPS which is simultaneously broken and allowing airflow normally with no symptoms of being broken according to the shop, so I've got one coming but unless I get a code for it or the car starts exhibiting symptoms of a failing sensor I'm not touching it. I'm thinking about possibly making a project thread once I have a proper place to work on it, right now I just have a snowy and muddy driveway but I'm hoping to get a tent garage set up with some sort of level and solid surface soon, otherwise it will have to wait until the summer. The nice thing is that all of the things it needs are bite-sized aside from maybe the valve cover gaskets, they're things I can easily do in a weekend rather than having to stare at a ripped apart car for weeks or months.
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Mar 16, 2021 21:34
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2022 WRX details are somewhat clearer now.... https://www.caradvice.com.au/934619/2022-subaru-wrx-spy-photos/?fbclid=IwAR2FnY3yt-V2TtzkA2yWgr7FSmYanw3QrD54rmVCo81Jgi9rD-j2Vm854AI Also at least in Australia the Levorg's worst kept secret that it's a WRX wagon with a CVT(*) about to be admitted and it'll just be called the WRX wagon https://www.caradvice.com.au/929363/2022-subaru-levorg-likely-to-get-wrx-turbo-power-and-name-in-australia/ And LOL Subaru arent smart enough to make the Levorg with a manual. (*) I nearly said poo poo CVT but that's repeating myself, ALL CVT's are poo poo
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Mar 17, 2021 02:56
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I don't mind the one in my Impreza, although it's tuned with the silly fake shifts (although those give you some sensation of your speed, admittedly). I'm still skeptical of the long term reliability. edit: I'm getting terrible mileage with the 2.0L though, although with winter tires / wheels.
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Mar 17, 2021 03:12
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I don't mind the CVT in my Impreza either, but it's a grocery getter. I would never want a CVT in a "performance" car. I can accept a dual clutch transmission. I get terrible milage as well, maybe 15mpg, but I drive like a mile here and there. If I cruise along the freeway at ~70mph I can get around 35mpg. They put a CVT in the current WRX. Surely they will still offer a manual? I want an STI hatchback with the same general drive train, ~400hp, 8000rpm redline, and comfortable/fancy seats 
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Mar 17, 2021 05:27
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I feel like Subaru is aware of the shrinking market of sporty daily manual cars (that aren't six figures, of course,) but this could go either way -- either they stick to that strength, or recognize a shrinking market for what it is.
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Mar 18, 2021 14:54
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Yeah I wonder if they had a good DCT or auto and not a CVT if they’d drop the manual for their performance cars like everybody else seems to be doing.
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Mar 18, 2021 15:00
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If the WRX lost the manual the nameplate would die there and then. Also they still sell every one they make in a blink and the CVT version rots on the lot. The average buyer just isnt interested in a two pedal version
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Mar 18, 2021 18:54
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Last time I checked (years ago) the split for CVT/manual was nearly 50/50.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:31
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Not for WRX, it's like 90/10 in favor of manual.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:36
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For a VA WRX what's the best option for transmission fluid changes? I was thinking Motul Gear for both rear and front but I have seen some sites recommend a different fluid for the front vs rear.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:40
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:If the WRX lost the manual the nameplate would die there and then. Also they still sell every one they make in a blink and the CVT version rots on the lot. The average buyer just isnt interested in a two pedal version Yeah that’s a really interesting thing to look at regarding who buys manual cars...enthusiasts, especially young ones. Cars that are bought mostly by young enthusiasts such as the WRX, BRZ, Veloster N, GTI, and Miata are sold with a very high manual take rate. There are no boomers who have always wanted a WRX but got the auto because it’s easier to drive. Young enthusiasts also buy Mustangs, Camaros, Challengers, and BMW’s but they are more frequently purchased by an older crowd that wants an auto. Supercars and high end sportscars are more frequently purchased by wealthy people who want cool cars but are less car-obsessed, which skews the take rate towards auto in that segment...combined with the superiority of a DCT or auto for performance numbers as well.
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Mar 18, 2021 19:59
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i read somewhere that minor chassis differences between auto and manual versions of cars often meant that the auto and manual had to be federal crash-tested seperately, and that was part of why manufacturers would aggressively drop manuals as soon as the sales numbers said they could, or would be dragged into offering a manual while kicking and screaming and throwing a tantrum about it (like subaru was with this generation impreza, or BMW has been with the base model 3)
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Mar 18, 2021 21:03
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um excuse me posted:Last time I checked (years ago) the split for CVT/manual was nearly 50/50. Ummm...... where on earth did you check that from, because that is nowhere near right? Two pedal WRX's have never sold well and even moreso for the CVT WRX. i own every Bionicle posted:Yeah that’s a really interesting thing to look at regarding who buys manual cars...enthusiasts, especially young ones. Cars that are bought mostly by young enthusiasts such as the WRX, BRZ, Veloster N, GTI, and Miata Actually a few of those cars - WRX, MX5 especially and the GTI - have an unexpected older skew. Those nameplates have been around long enough that Boomers actually had them 20-30 years ago and want another one. WRX, MX5 and GTI have a lot of owners who have owned previous versions (eg the first MX-5s are now 32 years old, the original WRX is about to tick over to 30)
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Mar 18, 2021 21:32
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Not in the US though, the first WRX just turned 20 last year and they were affordable enough that 20 year olds were buying them. So that puts anyone nostalgic about the WRX just over 40. Boomers aren't nostalgic for anything that doesn't have a V8 and zero crumple zones.
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Mar 18, 2021 22:58
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it's important to remember these are trends and not rules, too. my boomer mother loves the poo poo out of her stick miata. and when i bought a beat up old impreza and remarked "man, it feels good to drive a manual again, it's just nice" she knew exactly what i meant pretty much anyone that counts as a boomer or older (and the majority of Xers too) knows how to drive stick; learning to do so was simply synonymous with learning to drive when they were young. they just overwhelmingly don't care to now that the milage and performance benefits are slim to nonexistant. it's their kids who overwhelmingly have never learned to Cactus Ghost fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Mar 18, 2021 |
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Mar 18, 2021 23:55
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My mother is a boomer and despite formerly being part owner of a small trucking company as well as being raised on a farm, can't function in the presence of a manual transmission. I hate driving anything but a manual. At least the theft risk is much lower now. CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Mar 19, 2021 |
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Mar 19, 2021 00:03
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bull3964 posted:Not in the US though, the first WRX just turned 20 last year and they were affordable enough that 20 year olds were buying them. So that puts anyone nostalgic about the WRX just over 40. The average age of a WRX buyer even then wasn't 20. Sure the WRX wasnt on sale in the USA until 2001 but that doesnt mean older X'ers and younger Boomers werent aware of it and didnt want one. They were aware and they bought them.
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Mar 19, 2021 00:32
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Ummm...... where on earth did you check that from, because that is nowhere near right? Two pedal WRX's have never sold well and even moreso for the CVT WRX. I feel like that is the breakdown for the sedan and hatchback WRX when both versions were offered. I feel that numbers gets cited often when on the topic of why Subaru only offered the hatchback at first and now only the sedan when they went to only offering one body style. That said, it's unfortunate that Subaru is keeping the next-gen WRX as a sedan. On the other hand, at least I won't have immediate buyer's remorse for buying my Forester XT although it does have 200k+ miles on it and northeastern salt is slowly eating it away. At this point, though, any new car I'm going to get in the future is going to be electric and that at the very least will replace my Impreza that I still have around. I'm hoping that Subaru's partnership with Toyota will give them a leg up into the electric market and they make something interesting. More than likely, though, it's going to be an electrified crossover but hopefully it doesn't completely suck.
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Mar 19, 2021 01:35
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