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Krakkles posted:To add to this, the math is pretty simple: 13/32" is 26/64", which is 1/64" more than 25/64". 13/32" is 9.9mm, 25/64" is 10.3mm - maybe it's 10mm in metric to begin with?
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Mar 12, 2021 19:12
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melon cat posted:RE: drill bit sizing: thanks fellas. I'll contact the manufacturer and ask them what the deal is. Because not only do I need to widen the existing holes, but I also need to pop in some threaded rivets using a rivet nut tool (M6 mandrel). So the sizing really has to be perfect, and I'm guessing that a 1/64" of a differential could mess with the shield install. I suspect they're recommend either because the hole will be fine with either size bit. Use whichever you have and don't worry about it. If you've got both, use the smaller one (25/64). If it turns out to be a bit tight you can enlarge it with the other.
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Mar 12, 2021 19:13
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melon cat posted:RE: drill bit sizing: thanks fellas. I'll contact the manufacturer and ask them what the deal is. Because not only do I need to widen the existing holes, but I also need to pop in some threaded rivets using a rivet nut tool (M6 mandrel). So the sizing really has to be perfect, and I'm guessing that a 1/64" of a differential could mess with the shield install. luminalflux posted:13/32" is 9.9mm, 25/64" is 10.3mm - maybe it's 10mm in metric to begin with? Deteriorata posted:I suspect they're recommend either because the hole will be fine with either size bit. Use whichever you have and don't worry about it.
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Mar 12, 2021 19:15
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Where is a good place to buy reasonably priced wheels? Or maybe used wheels in good shape? I recently bought a 2017 Acura RLX and it’s a nice car but the stock “fan” wheels are soooooo bad. I’ve never been a wheel guy, but these have to go. I just want something more sporty looking. I don’t need high performance exotic wheels that cost thousands. Just something to make the car look less like a 90s reject.
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Mar 12, 2021 19:20
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I've taken to getting used wheels from the wreckers. They're usually the nicest condition, but I don't super care. I think the place I went to had a grading system where you can pay more for stuff that isn't rashed up.
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Mar 12, 2021 19:39
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Xarthor posted:Where is a good place to buy reasonably priced wheels? Or maybe used wheels in good shape? Krakkles posted:This is 100% the right answer.
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Mar 12, 2021 19:41
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melon cat posted:RE: drill bit sizing: thanks fellas. I'll contact the manufacturer and ask them what the deal is. Because not only do I need to widen the existing holes, but I also need to pop in some threaded rivets using a rivet nut tool (M6 mandrel). So the sizing really has to be perfect, and I'm guessing that a 1/64" of a differential could mess with the shield install. It's a 2012 Limited. It seems to function as normal when you start the car. It would be hard to miss, since it's right below the lcd screens. 100% positive that it was not reporting anything and had no warning lights when I dropped it off at 8am but magically by 9:30 the moment they put their hands on it there are all these issues with it. It's Les Schwab for what it's worth.
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Mar 12, 2021 19:48
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Not saying they aren't full of poo poo, maybe they are. But keep in mind that check engine lights come on when they feel like it. Not just when the registered owner is driving. I drove my brother's car years ago and the check engine light came on when I was driving it. So obviously I broke that poo poo. Or did something to break that poo poo....... I didn't.
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Mar 12, 2021 20:04
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Xarthor posted:Where is a good place to buy reasonably priced wheels? Or maybe used wheels in good shape? Depends on what you want to pay of course but there are various internet websites that have nice options. I don't think junkyard takeoffs are a great option as they tend to be OEM, but the RLX shares bolt patterns with various other Hondas and Acuras so you might be able to find takeoffs from another car whose wheels you like. Downside: pretty much all modern Honda wheels are ghastly, so this will be hard.
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Mar 12, 2021 20:09
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wesleywillis posted:Not saying they aren't full of poo poo, maybe they are. But keep in mind that check engine lights come on when they feel like it. Not just when the registered owner is driving. I drove my brother's car years ago and the check engine light came on when I was driving it. So obviously I broke that poo poo. Or did something to break that poo poo....... I didn't. Now I'm freaked out because everything I read says as soon as the low pressure warning is received shut it down and don't run it or it will seize the engine. I tried calling the closest auto repair place with a good reputation to the place my car is at and they are only open from 9-12 currently. WTF? I feel like I just cannot catch a break recently.
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Mar 12, 2021 20:37
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Depends on what you want to pay of course but there are various internet websites that have nice options. I don't think junkyard takeoffs are a great option as they tend to be OEM, but the RLX shares bolt patterns with various other Hondas and Acuras so you might be able to find takeoffs from another car whose wheels you like. Downside: pretty much all modern Honda wheels are ghastly, so this will be hard. I’m completely fine with non-Acura or Honda branded wheels. I’m not a brand whore I just want non ugly wheels. I know TireRack is a popular site. Any other suggestions for websites?
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Mar 12, 2021 20:53
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otter posted:Now I'm freaked out because everything I read says as soon as the low pressure warning is received shut it down and don't run it or it will seize the engine. How much oil is on the dipstick? I have no idea what I'm talking about here: Maybe the hit was enough to temporarily upset the sensor, so it recorded the fault, but since it wasn't ongoing the light didn't come on?
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Mar 12, 2021 20:53
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Colostomy Bag posted:If you're lucky, an axle tag. Ahh poo poo I have two of those rattling in my glove box because I forgot.
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Mar 12, 2021 20:55
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Xarthor posted:I’m completely fine with non-Acura or Honda branded wheels. I’m not a brand whore I just want non ugly wheels. I know TireRack is a popular site. Any other suggestions for websites? ebay motors is pretty good tbh
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Mar 12, 2021 20:58
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It may have cracked the oil pan too and it just took this long to drain to the danger level, but I'd want my eyes on it before authorizing any work
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Mar 12, 2021 21:02
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I don't think junkyard takeoffs are a great option as they tend to be OEM, This is a plus for me. I've gotten cheap wheels and then not been able to find a replacement when one broke, requiring me to buy a whole other set. I'd rather pay more for a junkyard OEM take off knowing there will be millions of spares out there.
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Mar 12, 2021 21:13
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there are advantages but the OP specifically did not like the style of the OEM wheels and to be honest Honda/Acura OEM wheels since roughly 2015 are awful
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Mar 12, 2021 21:19
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Rock Auto sells oem wheels. Look for something you like with correct bolt pattern etc. Might not be that expensive plus they'll be new so no corrosion.
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Mar 12, 2021 22:34
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Outrail posted:How much oil is on the dipstick? right in the middle of the crosshash area of the fill level. I took it to another car repair place, he thinks it is the sensor so I'm taking it in on Monday. I drove it to the repair place (9 blocks), then home (2.5 miles from the repair place) and it runs and sounds just fine. No clicking, no ticking, no grinding, whining or anything. Also god drat my stock stereo in the explorer sounds better than the one in my wife's car which I had to drive back to and leave at Les Schwab.
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Mar 12, 2021 22:34
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I'm getting some shaking under hard braking so I think I have a warped rotor, or maybe drum although I don't know if drum brakes do that. How do I test each of them to see if that's the issue, and if so which axle it's on?
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Mar 13, 2021 03:41
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Rotors really don't warp under normal road conditions. It's pad deposits/detempering that make them feel like what you've heard "warped rotors" are. But drums don't really make that feeling happen either. So yeah, you almost definitely need a set of brakes and rotors. And you need to not ride them and/or stop hard and then keep you foot on the brakes while they are still ripping hot from that while at a dead stop.
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Mar 13, 2021 04:12
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Well, that's nice and simple. I was thinking I needed pads soon anyway, and a pair of plain rotors doesn't add much to that cost.
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Mar 13, 2021 05:29
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You can *usually* figure out if its front or rear by stopping with the parking brake. Assuming you have a hand brake (that is adjusted properly and working correctly), if its the rears, you will feel the pulsing in the handle. This might work if you have a pedal for the parking brake as well, but I've never tried it myself. If your parking brake is working correctly and you feel it in the handle, then you know that at least your rears need doing. Doesn't mean that both don't need repair however.
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Mar 13, 2021 06:10
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Folks, I have a 06 Honda Odyssey that's throwing all the engine codes for misfires. P0300, which is "misfire somewhere", and P0301 through P0306, for each cylinder misfiring, as well as P0344, the camshaft position sensor. I know the typical thing to do for morons like me is to start pulling and replacing all the parts. I'm also seeing online via searching that some people say that a single bad ignition coil will trip all those same codes for them on that engine. Where do I start?
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Mar 13, 2021 20:53
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I want to replace the shocks on my 2002 ZX2. It is not a race car so I don't particularly care about performance beyond what it came with stock, but if there's a choice I would lean towards a quieter/softer ride. For this application is there any real difference between, say, the $65 Duralast strut assemblies at Autozone and the $120 Monroe ones at O'Reilly?
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Mar 13, 2021 22:16
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canyoneer posted:Folks, I have a 06 Honda Odyssey that's throwing all the engine codes for misfires. P0300, which is "misfire somewhere", and P0301 through P0306, for each cylinder misfiring, as well as P0344, the camshaft position sensor. That almost sounds like the timing belt jumped a tooth. How long has it been since it was changed?
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Mar 14, 2021 01:03
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Crossposting here. Changing the right CV boot on my 2005 Subaru Outback. Can't get shaft out. Discovered it looks like shaft has moved out half an inch or so from transmission. Can't get it to move in in but everything bolts up fine?? simplefish posted:I went with a new boot as I wasn't getting a clicking sound.
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Mar 14, 2021 03:25
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STR posted:That almost sounds like the timing belt jumped a tooth. How long has it been since it was changed? 50k miles or so. Good news: I realize that I never reset the engine codes from when I changed the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago  I cleared them and then drove around all day and haven't heard a peep from it, so I'll take the W for now.
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Mar 14, 2021 05:00
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I'm trying to finish fixing my Fit's EGR valve. I cleaned it so it's no longer stuck, but I'm now getting P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low. The pot/sensor is getting a 5V reference so that seems ok. I couldn't follow the troubleshooting steps further because they tell me to plug in some sort of proprietary diagnostic doohickey into different harnesses. I've seen that some cars expose the desired and actual EGR valve position through ODBII, which would clear up the issue immediately. I can't see it in Torque using the cheapo BT ELM dongle. Could this be a limitation of the dongle, Torque, or the car just doesn't show these values?
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Mar 14, 2021 19:21
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simplefish posted:Crossposting here. Oof, looks like you've dislocated the axle shaft (12, below) out of the front diff. That can happen if you unbolt the hub from the strut and let it drop while the driveshaft/axle roll pin is still holding the axle to the axle shaft.  The part 9 tensions the bearing iirc and can be broken if someone is trying to turn it with a drift. No idea what the consequences of this are, hopefully it's just an 'axle seal r/r' on top of the axle swap or rebuild.
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Mar 14, 2021 21:25
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Boys who love boys
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Mar 14, 2021 23:39
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monsterzero posted:Oof, looks like you've dislocated the axle shaft (12, below) out of the front diff. That can happen if you unbolt the hub from the strut and let it drop while the driveshaft/axle roll pin is still holding the axle to the axle shaft. Oh poo poo, sounds expensive If anyone has any more info please let me know
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Mar 15, 2021 01:44
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monsterzero posted:Oof, looks like you've dislocated the axle shaft (12, below) out of the front diff. That can happen if you unbolt the hub from the strut and let it drop while the driveshaft/axle roll pin is still holding the axle to the axle shaft. Didn't the Legacy/Outback get rid of the roll pin for 05+? I mean, there's definitely some innies exposed, but that looks nothing like the stub + roll pin setup I have on my 03. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 12:59
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Is it just a case of shove it back in?
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Mar 15, 2021 13:01
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Hopefully it is, but wait for monsterzero to reply, or maybe crosspost into the Subaru thread if you haven't already. There's a circlip that may have fallen inside of the diff. I only know a little bit about 00-04 Outbacks (enough to be dangerous), 05 went to a different half shaft setup.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 13:08
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Ongoing investigation into why my fuel economy sucks rear end, week 12: https://i.imgur.com/QY4U8Lb.gifv How bad is this (sound on)? I'm not the weakest human alive but it took a little effort to rotate like that. e:vv duly noted, cheers. Outrail fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Mar 15, 2021 |
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Mar 15, 2021 16:08
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Outrail posted:Ongoing investigation into why my fuel economy sucks rear end, week 12: Don't put image tags on a gifv. It's actually a video file. https://i.imgur.com/QY4U8Lb.gifv
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Mar 15, 2021 16:44
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STR posted:Hopefully it is, but wait for monsterzero to reply, or maybe crosspost into the Subaru thread if you haven't already. There's a circlip that may have fallen inside of the diff. I only know a little bit about 00-04 Outbacks (enough to be dangerous), 05 went to a different half shaft setup. Sorry, didn't realize this wasn't a 2nd gen Outback. My knowledge is limited to first/second gens as well and the image I linked was more illustrative than definitive. simplefish posted:Is it just a case of shove it back in? Hopefully someone in the Subaru thread can be more specific.
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Mar 15, 2021 17:11
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2011 Honda Civic, about 32k miles. Anybody know what might be causing the TPMS sensor to go off? I recently had a leak in my rear right tire and I went to an Official And Presumably Trustworthy Honda Dealership to get it fixed. Apparently, it required repairing/replacing the pressure input and TMPS sensor on the wheel. It looks like this right now:  (Pressure readings gave me about 35psi.) The fix went in about a week and a half ago or something. Recently, I was driving to a friend’s house, and the TPMS sensor suddenly came on. I was loving pissed at first, but I checked the pressure on the tires and all of them still seem to be well pressurized, including the one that was fixed. So now, I’m just kinda confused. When I was checking the tires, I noticed that the tire that got its sensor replaced was harder to get a pressure reading for. I have to push into it a bit hard and it’s not a blast of air like the others, it’s slower and quieter. I’ve never seen this before, and it’s real weird. While I’m waiting on the dealership to call me back and let me ask them what the gently caress they did to my tire, any idea why this might be happening?
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Mar 15, 2021 18:04
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Has the ambient temperature changed recently in your area? TPMS sensors can go a little haywire when it gets warm / cold suddenly. They can also get untrained, there should be a retraining procedure you can look up to sort them out. usually this involves some magic button presses and then a bit of driving. otherwise, it's probably a safe bet that the dealer hosed something up.
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Mar 15, 2021 19:27
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